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Originally Posted by FDmuri
(Post 10188812)
lol u didn waste any time with posting that jaime :lol:
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Originally Posted by Vell
(Post 10186265)
It's simple, and well know from the S chassis guys.
When you got a lot of steering angle, there is a point where everything "steering" related is "over centered". That's a bad thing for two reasons : 1 - It's a "blur" area, as the wheels can slighty turn when the steering wheel don't move. 2 - It's hard and asks for more efforts to move the steering wheel in this area The solution for the S chassis is to move the steering rack, or using some special offset rack spacers : http://www.driftworks.com/shop/p820/...duct_info.html (plus there's a better description of the problem in the page ^^) If you are used to watch some crazy japanese videos, you'll see the wheel going crazy. This is the same effect as in this video, even if it's a crashuu ^^ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vDl-M_VNqmw So, same problems, same solutions .... :) |
3 Attachment(s)
Attachment 722249
My set up. its definetly way more angle than stock Attachment 722250 Attachment 722251 Colors dont look right with out editing. |
thead I made a while back. lots of info!!
https://www.rx7club.com/drifting-226/steering-knuckle-mod-moar-angle-766836/ |
This thread is where everything started for me... :P without it, I will not touch the knuckles...
(I read a lot before doing) I think we got something similar, caliper sitting next to the bolt of the Arm ? budgetslashcry, reducing angle ?! No way !!! The offset tie rod spacer can do the job imo, I will try it with a friend of mine who's got a pair.... I think it's plug & play but we'll see then ! |
I bought my tierods and spacers from a guys on here. I think it was eyecandy or something like that. 240sx tierods work on your FD. The problem is that the outter balljoint pitch taper is different.
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dang drifters.com knuckles and stock tie rods. not sure of my wheel specs but maybe 17x9 +35 ? they came on the car. the car also has m2 ap racing bbk... again came on it. i have a little more room before anything hits
https://1.bp.blogspot.com/_B3PPuasDo...218-757017.jpg |
Originally Posted by Vell
(Post 10186265)
It's simple, and well know from the S chassis guys.
When you got a lot of steering angle, there is a point where everything "steering" related is "over centered". That's a bad thing for two reasons : 1 - It's a "blur" area, as the wheels can slighty turn when the steering wheel don't move. 2 - It's hard and asks for more efforts to move the steering wheel in this area The solution for the S chassis is to move the steering rack, or using some special offset rack spacers : http://www.driftworks.com/shop/p820/...duct_info.html (plus there's a better description of the problem in the page ^^) If you are used to watch some crazy japanese videos, you'll see the wheel going crazy. This is the same effect as in this video, even if it's a crashuu ^^ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vDl-M_VNqmw So, same problems, same solutions .... :) |
Yep, and that was the problem with mine when I tried my only one drift lap.
I think it's just about being used to feel the car like that, even if it's not comfortable. An S chassis will do it with a mental lock, FDs does with approx. 45° :( |
so what does one have to do to get more angle?
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1 - Modding the lower A arm like the Dragon Performance Drift Slut ;)
2 - as the Re-Amemiya D1GP car, hand made A arm. 3 - Big brake kit |
Originally Posted by Vell
(Post 10364469)
1 - Modding the lower A arm like the Dragon Performance Drift Slut ;)
2 - as the Re-Amemiya D1GP car, hand made A arm. 3 - Big brake kit |
Yep that's right, but it's still a solution ;)
(plus the FDs got very good calipers ... no need for a big brake kit) |
Ok so I've checked and then I'm getting this angle.
Still knuckles + rack spacers. (note: the car isn't on the ground) https://img338.imageshack.us/img338/5504/img5030f.jpg I think there is still some degrees left, but nothing crazy as the caliper bolt is touching the A arm, then it's the whole caliper touching the arm... maybe 2° more ? What I guess about the Re-Amemiya car (using both stock or Ikeya Formula lower arm) is that the whole spindles are really different. Moving the lower mouting point so there is more room. I assume they're using some offset pillowball too, like the ones you can find from Super Now. |
I finally used my PBM knuckles PBM S14 inners and S14 outers and that shit was amazing! I honestly have nothing bad to say.
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Hey guys,
Since it seems like we've got pretty much all the FD drifters from the site in one area, I'm going to revive this thread with a similar question. What do you guys do for caster? I've found the Super Now Super Caster pillow ball bearing set, but besides that and custom lower arms, what are our options? Also, I've read that the FD's suspension is somewhat dynamic in the way that caster affects camber and vice versa. Will I be able to run a minimum of -3 degrees of camber while running more (hopefully at least) than 8 degrees of caster? Any insight is much appreciated, I'm very interested in running more than 8 degrees of caster |
Anyone around still up on this? W/ stock tires/rims/brakes, when do you start to bump into stuff? .50 off? .75 off? I saw one of you guys do 1.25 cut off? How'd that work out?
Thanks~! |
bumping this good thread for some updated info. I'm just getting into the FD game.
Are FD guys doing anything different these days or is notching the arms, reducing the lower caliper bolt, and spacers still the way to go if you want to use your stock knuckles? Any pics out there of how much to notch the arm? |
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