Look at you getting all technical .

That said if you are crafty you can measure your bump steer with a laser level, some paper on a wall, a pencil, a tape measure, and maths.

 

Rear set up is within oem specs.

I do have the "Crash Bolts" installed in the car, but adding to the -camber not taking it out. So more camber at plate and remove at knuckle. Could I use the product in this post for that?? Would I get an advantage or loose too much camber at that point?

With a manual steering rack I want the car to center up quick when I get cross-controlled.
Thus the reasoning of the caster. Is this correct?

I do think less toe in the front will help. I will ask for this on my next alignment.

Thanks guys.

 

I was going to ask this next.. do your camber plates have caster and camber adjustability? It sounds like you have more caster than stock (I dont remember for sure). More caster increases steering effort, you will feel this with a manual rack, but it also more caster gives more "return to center" effect.

I think you just need a good alignment and make sure everything is in good shape. You don't need geometry changes for the street if the car is aligned correctly and everything is in good shape.

 

+1

O.k, great news. I'll run through the bushings ball joints and tie rods soon after she's painted and then just have them take out a little front toe.

Thanks to everyone who helped.

Cheers,

Joe

 

any more info on this ? interested

 

i remade strut mounts(from stock) that were non adjustible.. instant 4 degrees of caster... which could be adjusted back to 3 R 2.5 L with the slotted strut mount.. worked great, no cost, very little time.

i'm with you...

make me a solid 1. inch out pair for clearing 18 inch rims. i'll adjust my camber with my strut. you only need to have one adjustment( unless it puts you way off. i'm thinking not.)

 

Alllright so the design has changed alot, I had a set made, and the balljoint shaft had broken on one of my runs. Here is what we had.















So I scrapped that Idea, and started over with something more simple and cost worthy. So heres what I've got now.













The will support a 1" uniball with a 1" tapered down 17-4 Stainless to the 18mm knuckle pickup. Should be much stronger and have no issues. Rather than having the end milled at an angle, the cup for the uniball will be drilled at the angle which will save on machine time and cost.

also no more slots, you all are right, even with the knurl it was hard to get them to stay. I can always make them for whatever length it is actually needed for.

 

that looks like a solid design.

 

interested!!!
Pm please