Ive been searching around for a good thread on how to mod my front knuckles, or possibly have them done. Can anybody give me some specs or a good place to buy/or have them done. I'm running Ford crown vic meshes on my gxl.16x7 +1 offset I beleive.(could be wrong??) I have to run a 1/4 spacer up front to clear fp brakes. Also sitting on new Megan streets. Anything helps, thanks.

 

http://justinpawlak.com/Hot_Line_STO...product=298083

 

This place is cheaper have them on my car angle is amazing not sure about the wheels though. Also you have to get mazdatrix racing angle kit to replace your tie rods.

http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/page.php?15

 

I thought poweredbymax only made knuckles for 240's?

 

X2 for JTP Spindles. Legit products!

 

They make fc ones too scroll down you will see a black rx7 with the yellow reflector. Heard jtp's are really good also.

 

So do I need to buy new tie rod ends to run the JTP knuckles?? I think I'm leaning more towards them.

 

No you don't. But Justin could set you up with outer rod ends, which I'd recommend doing anyways.

You're best bet, is to call him at HOT LINE, and go over the options.

You'd be dealing with a dude that knows more about FC's than most on here.

 

Sweet, ill call today. Thanks guys.

 

http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/page.php?15
is where my friend went, has an amazing setup now. so gl

 

get the mazdatrix angle kit adds a lot more angle and comes with outer tie rods and inner tie rod spacers

 

I hear the mazdatrix kit only works on the S5's. Check i Super*Now i hear they are amazing! Also GPsport is great too.

 

Hi guys. I think many people here made knuckles mod independently. Few questions: Any nuances in knuckles welding? What type of steel is a better use for this?
I understand that advise to buy the finished product, but it is too expensive because of my location My friends are engaged in welding roll cages and other custom things. I completely trust them on this issue. I understand that, for example, the point of attachment tie rod when welding is desirable to move down, as done "powered by max"? Anything else I should know before you start work? I run at stock tie rods, D2 suspension.

 

go to JTP. justin has been nothing but good to me and my baby

 

I will say two things to you.

1. Nobody has EVER badmouthed justin, the work his shop does or his knuckles. That says something. You'd be supporting rad **** and would have peace of mind with that setup. Yes, it's money but you are getting exactly what you pay for. Do you really wanna know what happens when your knuckle is free to rotate independently of it's counterpart that still is attached to the steering rack bits? Me either.


2. Take the "car" thing out of the equation. Lets talk welding cast. You know the difference between billet, forged, semi-forged and cast, correct? It's all in the grain of the molecules. Cast iron is VERY strong but when you cut it and weld it to itself, all that heat messes up the grain and can cause weak spots. I've seen people hang turbos from oem cast na manifolds with a flange welded to them that held up with ZERO understanding of why welding two different structural compositions of metal has to be done a certain way for maximum strength.


So you heat and change composition of ONE section and on either end of the section you weld, you created a shear point.

*make sure the metal is CLEAN. And i MEAN CLEAN. Crank your post and pre gas flow up so you are getting good coverage. You dont want to contaminate a weld this crucial.

*Heat. Preheat the knuckle prior to welding. Weld, heat again, throw in sand. Sand will slow cool cast and make it harden/arrange more uniformly. I would do this with any cast part. I did this to my diff to make the weld, gears, carrier up to the same temp and slow cooled in sand to prevent microscopic cracks that could cause failure....like shift locking into 3rd gear at 80mph.


As far as actual torch/arc/puddle moving technique, i'm not sure how one could or should tackle that. I would pull and angle the ark/torch in the direction of travel to try to get as much heat, penetration and material as possible. That might not be the right way but it makes logical sense to me. I have no idea what would yield maximum strength. I've never done any sort of chassis fab. I welded my first bead in 2001 and i'm STILL learning ****. It's your car, money and life. if you are certain you wanna try this on your own, by all means but Justin has this down to a science obviously so i highly recommend you get at him.

 

I am going with justin. My fabricator has 40 years of experience welding but he doesnt weld cast much so he said he would feel safer having someone that does legit work do it. 400 bucks is a good deal, and you can think about it like this. save 200-400 bucks doing it your self but make a mistake (which happens) and there goes you car into the wall and all that money you just saved is gone. gotta pay to play for the most part

 

i've seen someones car driving home from a track one time drive straight into a a krail @ 60+mph because the welder used the wrong filler rod...

it's a shitty feeling SEEING someones brake lights come on, and just straight pile.
$400 is well worth it like you said.
although i don't currently run a set of his spindles, i will be in the future as money permits. we've all seen the nutty angle his car has:

 

I die a little inside every time i see that car now.

 

This. **** thieves.

 

Thanks for the detailed response. If the welding of these parts is so complicated, I certainly will not do it in our garage. Experience in welding 'difficult' metals such as iron we had. And such important parts of the car so modifying too risky. I can do it, but then I have to learn to weld for yourself Usually we give such details of welding for large plants (of negligence on the Russian factories has its pluses ). I think that in this case can not control the geometry of the workpiece. Well, this summer I'll spend with a standard angle , is not so bad. Hopefully at the end of the year Justin post the first knuckles in Russia
Thanks again

 

Goddamn

Just find out your max angle for your width and offset by taking the tie rod end off, the turning the wheel till it almost hits the lca. Boom thats what youre wheels will alow

Mark it cut TIG it

Then drift all sick

 

It's not that simple. I say go for the maximum angle you can get with a friend hanging on to the other knuckle/tie rod with the wheels off. Then your limiting factor is that stupid ******* lower bolt affixing the brake caliper to the knuckle hitting on the lca which is an easy fix with a grinder. I'm going to TRY to get my lower ball joints and knuckles done this or next weekend. Will report back later. +12 offset on 9.5J requires a smidge of track work and i can't be bothered to buy more wheels or buy more spacers. If spacers are cheaper than what it will cost to cut/weld my ball joints we shall see.


Just mark your knucks with the wheels off. Remove that stupid brake bolt while you're at it too and see what can be had. Now the question is: Will steering feedback be complete dogshit and wheel stuck at lock occur with the rack/rods left unmodified going overcenter?

 

so if i want to buy knuckles were is the best place and price?

 

The OE knuckles are not cast. They are forged. Welding them with MIG is better and stronger unless you have a TIG that can put out serious amperage. Although I still prefer MIG because less heat is put into the part.

Pre and post heat like mentioned above and allow it to cool down slowly.

I modified my own knuckles and they are MIG welded. 4 years of abuse and even a few wall hits with the front wheels have not phased the knuckles.

I'm getting 65º of angle with them.

 

I was unaware of this! I figured they were cast.