hello all
im welding the floors in my vert where the top drains would normally go do to the fact that there completely rusted out.
I made the mistake of buying thin metal its 12 or 16 gauge i believe its 12 tho

anyway so i ran into a problem where my welder is set to the lowest amp and set on 2 for speed this seemed to work ...sloppy but worked while i was adjoining the sheet metal to the body of the car but when i started to weld the two thin metals together i burn through. unless i do one of two things set the amp low and the wire speed fast.. like to the point it sounds like a machine gun then set my speed to normal and my amperage up and re weld over the initial pass. this leaves a very sloppy weld and it leaves alot of pin holes.

on my way home i was thinking of a solution.. i came up with tack welding it together and then over lapping the welds to sorta achieve a stack of dimes affect.

my question is will this work? and where can i get thicker sheet metal?

ill post some pictures tomorrow

 

oh i have a lincoln 140 welder i think its call a easy mig 140
no gas
.030 wire i believe flux core

should i go thinner?
and i plann on adding gas soon

 

 

so this is my first time take it easy on me guys!
i wanted to get a coupe shell but it doesnt look like that will be happening sooooo imma fix this or remedy it for the time being. maybe by the time i get my apex seals and motor put togeather ill have a shell

ill take some pics tomorrow of what i did

 

1st..STOP!.... Do not cut any more metal unless your actually thinking about restoring it. The car looks really rough, almost pointless to start repair. It is a good practice car though. You are going to get into something that you probably dont want to. I know the floors are probably gone. That is the rustyest vert i have ever seen.

2nd...STOP!...get rid of that flux wire. Do not try to weld with it period. Go get a spool of .23 and gas asap. You will grin ear to ear once you start messing with this and think "**** why did i think of flux core".

3rd...Go to your local Auto Body supply store and ask for a sheet of metal. Here, ohio, the sheets of metal are 4ftx4ft,$20ish.

 

Holy crap, from the looks of it you have no idea what your doing.

But if you feel you have to do it yourself and want to learn, at least get some gas and .023 wire as stated above.

Also you want some 16ga or 18ga sheetmetal, the sheetmetal in the floor is fairly thin. Your going to want to tack it in multiple places first. Then you want to weld it a little at a time alternating in different places so you don't warp it to much.

 

thanks guys..

i plan on getting gas but i need a tank 200 bucks for a 80 cu ft filled with 75-25 co2/argo mix
and then i need to get a regulator. unfortunatly i have garage rent this check so maybe next check ill have enough.

@ 86v8rx7 when i originally cut this out i was a dumb *** about it and used a sawzall. theres mounts and **** that i couldnt/dont want to cut and **** with so i just left it alone.

i bought a angle grinder a body saw and a die grinder with a cut off wheel attachment its made everything so much simpler.

@ just startin : bro i want to buy a new shell but funds are minimal working at a bum *** retail job and tring to save up for a tool box so i can get work in the field has proved to be difficult. so the way i see it is i can do something in the garage im paying a monthly fee for and possible learn or seriously **** things up ether way there is no lesson learned with out a mistake. And i dont think its coming out that bad for some one with no fabricator experience and so far i think im loving it just alot of practice is needed.

oh and btw the corner panels (the corners if front of the rear wheels) was rusted completly out and bondo'd to look factory luckily all the rust is back there and not in things that are structural? well atleast not counting the floor.

 

get 100% CO2, much cheaper than buying mix gas.

 

Will it deliver the same type of result as mixed gas? I still gatta buy a tank which is why its ganna runn 200 for the tank and gas

 

Mix gas helps with arc stability, but since you are repairing thin gauge sheet metal you should not on the tigger for more than 1 second (spot jump spot jump...) therefore you don't have to worry about arc stability. End results always depends on the welder's skill.

 

oh.. hit up a pawn shop or two and see if they have any CO2 tanks for cheap. if the tank is past it's hydro, use that as a excuse to bring the price down. Most gas suppliers don't care if the hydro is out of date since you are just exchanging your empty for a filled tank. I just exchanged a 219 CF He tank that was last tested 76 + 1 stamp for a 330 CF of Ar, $83 otd.

 

crazy i dont even kno WTF all them acronyms mean lmao
everything up here is WAcK pawn shops dont have anything good.. i wish i still lived in nyc i could GET ANYTHING!! up here every one TRIES TO BE GHETTO! and they all fail at it... smh no EL bootlegger specials.. no popo el crack head special sales or nothing.. the pawn shops have all the BEAT bullshit that people dont wanna throw away but pawn just to get SOMething!..
i cant wait to move to a more civilized area.. anyway ill post some pics hopefully soon of my handywork.

 

 

looks like you finally got a gas mig but still need some practice.

and i agree, that car looks like it should be retired. your fuel lines are about to rot out soon, then the brake lines.

 

im still using that flux core but i upped it up to .035 wire and did a spot weld pause over lapp method. till i got impatiant and welded in 10 sec stitches im waiting on upgrading my circuit breaker at my shop to a 30-40 amp and i have to wire in some outlets. cause right now i only have a 20 amp and have to turn off the bigg lights so i dont blow the breaker its kinda hard to weld in the semi dark with a welding mask.

anyway i cut thru all those lines cause.. welp look at them i will retire the car when i get a shell but till then i have to do everything i can get me out of the AZTEK its a boring as ride..