I am about to start a 20b project and I am looking at this kit as an option, I have a few questions:

1. The current position of the engine is behind and below the steering rack. With this kit you are raising the engine several inches so that it rest over the rack. What have you done to compensate for the increased angle of the trans in relation to the PPF and driveshaft?

2. With this kit the 20B LIM needs to be sectioned and shorted to allow the hood to close. What testing have you done to see how this effects airflow and how does it effect performance versus a non-modified intake manifold?

3. You are redrilling the 20B oilpan to be able to mount to the FD front cover, from my experience this is not a great fit leaving the opportunity for substantial leaks. What have you done to prevent this from happening?

Obviously these are concerns that I have and that others may have. Your kit is more expensive then some of the subframe & bumpsteer elim kits, so before I spend $2k with you I would like to know how you addressed these concerns.

Thanks
Chris

Thanks for considering our kit!

1) The 20b is obviously longer, and as you stated sits above the rack. The total height raised over the 13b position is 1.3". As you know the ppf frame bolts the transmission/engine and rear end together as a unit. So its impossible that the height change effects the geometry of the driveshaft angle. 1.3" at the front of a near 8ft pivot arm, is a very small percentage of change.

2) The new shortened intake has been dyno'd with both high strung n/a 3 rotors revving to 9k, and a 42R turbo 3 rotor. It will shift peak torque higher in the rpm band about 1,100-1,300 rpm. Which will yeild more power both n/a and turbo compared to stock. The bottom end torque is slightly reduced. The factory intake was designed around a luxury sedan, needing peak torque from 4.5-6k. The shorter intake will provide peak torque from 5.5-7k

3) The FD front cover is a customer option, we do not drill the pan for it. The 20b or FC front cover can still be used if desired. All the 3 rotors we have built here are using a FD front cover without issue, but care must be used and we personally only use nissan RTV for the job. ($25.00+ per tube)

Hope that helps with your questions.

Great, so you can show pics of this kit actually installed with a turbo. Instead of just on a subframe on the floor. :)

It would also be great if you would post up the dyno charts for comparison of the peak torque.

Thanks
Chris

It will be a month or so before our customer will let us post the info and pics up. But they will be here soon! Of course my personal car has had this conversion kit on it for over 3 years, and pics of it are posted.

I'm thinking of swapping a 20B on my FC too !

updates?

Did you ever post the pictures of the modded intake?

I think i did, but to save you some time here they are again.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...a/DSC00866.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...a/DSC00867.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...a/DSC00868.jpg

man those weld lines are such an eye sore....

show us some of your welds on 15 year old cast aluminum that are better

im sure when I put a big ass turbo and downpipe on it you wont notice the welds that much...:)

you know what would be badass is if someone just made a new lower intake manifold from scratch, similar to the ground zero FD lower manifold idea....

Could have all the emissions eliminated off, the short equal length runners, and they would be clean as hell!

We are able to build custom lower intakes and without a doubt they will look very nice. The price is more than 4x as much vs. a modified stock lower intake. And neither will be seen once the turbo is in place. The modified lower intake already eliminates all the emmisions, and is equal length. Looks is the only thing to be improved upon, and so far nobody wants to pay for just that.

How so lont a turnaround time?

Quick question now that there's a new updated deluxe kit. Will the (now) basic kit still retain P/S that's all I really care to keep :)

*edit* I retract my question new post answered it. Leaving this here for anyone else that brain farts like me.

"This is not replacing our previous 20b conversion, it is simply a optional upgrade for users wanting to retain a/c."

Originally Posted by hornbm View Post
man those weld lines are such an eye sore....
Ok: here is my FD LIM that I cut and rewelded. The last picture shows mine on left next to a JDM in middle and a US that I started with.
I bought a welder and practiced on some scaps before modding my intake.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1245987346
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1245987346
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1245987346
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1245987346

That turned out nice, good job. But first off its not a shortened intake. And of course if you spend a few hours sanding all the welds and smoothing them it should look better. We are talking about raw welded, un-dressed appearance. Any pics of your welds before being smoothed out and sanded for a while? Not trying to step on your toes, but rather a apples to apples comparison.