I like when you say "No one wants to watch me clean dowel pins" and then the next clip is you..... cleaning dowel pins.

Awesome progress. I wish my housings had been anywhere near as nice as those.

 

Accidentally unsubscribed.

 

Yeah, I'm a bastard.

The next video is going to be mainly cleaning engine parts, so I'll have to just make a bunch of quick cuts to keep it interesting. But I don't want to skip that stuff since it is as important as any other part of building an engine.

 

In part 4, I continued cleaning the engine as started in the last video. Anyone who has done this before knows how involved a task it is to clean engine parts before they are ready to be reassembled, and how time consuming it is. While I did clean all the parts from the Cosmo 13B, I will actually only be using the housings, oil pan and a few other items. The rotating assembly, irons and lower intake will come from a GSL-SE 13B.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5A5q61bzRI

 

It has been a few weeks since the last update. I've been working on the car on and off during this period. So, here is part 5. To take a break from some of the engine work, part 5 deals with shaving some of the body holes (antenna, sill trim) and begins the floor repair with patching a minor hole.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVh0NrJJo5k

 

This is great stuff - I'm learning a lot. Thanks for sharing!

 

Keep it up, your doing great!!!

Can't wait for the next update.

 

If there is one word that describes you, its thorough. Awesome work.

 

Aaron Cake: "AAAAAAIIIIIIIEEEEEEEE"

Molten metal....

 

The next update will be interesting I think. I may actually have a replacement floor pan from Mazda to fix the big hole. Just waiting for the phone call as to whether or not it will ever arrive.

I hate it when people just post a bunch of pictures with no explanation, or when TV shows gloss over two days worth of work in 5 seconds. I'm trying to find the balance between showing what it is really like to do a project like this vs. monotonous grinding and welding. The trouble is, body work is basically monotonous welding, grinding, sanding, filling over an entire body. I'm getting bored of the sheet metal stuff so I think soon I'll get back to the engine and engine bay.

 

There is a factory mazda floor pan still out there?
when i restored my cosmo 25 years ago i got the last quarter panel (gas door side)
and one of the rockers, or so i was told by the parts person at mazda canada.
I tend to have believed him considering that it took 8 weeks to get the quarter panel!

matt

 

I never trust what the parts guys say. THEY LIE!
It was probably such a hassle for him to order he didnt want to do it again ahahahaha


did serg order your parts Aaron? hahahaha
when i was building my engine, first tried telling me my part numbers for the old parts were "american part numbers" then the guy kept messing up my orders, the one time I got 6 out of 12 corner seals and 1 apex spring after I went over the order with him 3 times!.then i go back to get a few little gaskets, and i was missing an coolant o-ring for the IM even though I paid for 2.this was on friday afternoon so it was goin to be tuesday before i could get it, I wanted to get my engine finished off that weekend so i just put in some 20mm freeze plugs in there instead.
And I lived over 40 mins away so it was lots of messing around

 

Well guys, I just got off the phone with Mazda and it appears to be a no-go on the floor pan. They thought they had a few available, but I guess not. Not surprising, though I did have my hopes up. It's not a huge deal but it would have saved me a few hours making a patch. The area I need to patch has some compound curves and several seams so having a stamped panel would have made things easier.

Generally I don't have a major issue with ordering parts from Probart. I almost always show up with a clear list of part numbers and quantities.

 

After discovery of the large hole in the drivers side floor, it became clear that the sheet metal needed some major repairs. So part 6 deals with stripping down the floor to get a clear view of what needs to be repaired and to prep for the actual repairs. In this episode I strip out the sound deadening tar using dry ice, clean up the residue, and then sand blast the floor pan.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hJbzCSWdN0

 

Gahh that's a ton of rust you should definitely order more awesome parts to offset the depression caused by over 30 years of weather... :P

 

lol


That was funny!

Great videos!!!!

 

Hey Aaron thanks for the story nice vids i must say u got good editing skills and excellent time managment i just do not know where u find the time........ off to bed now

 

At least it rusted from the inside out, not the other way around. Otherwise I'd also be dealing with totalled pinch welds and likely have to rebuild the inner structure of the sills...ugly.

Need to get a clutch next, but I think that will just be a parts store item or a Mazdatrix purchase so not very exciting. Once the engine is in the engine bay, I'll need a turbo to build a manifold so it will be nice to see a fresh box of turbo arrive at the front door...

Thanks! It takes some thought to edit 3+ hours of footage down to 15 minutes. There are some rough edges in my editing, but it is getting better. After watching this last episode a few minutes ago I think I need to spend less time on a single task.

 

Aaron... You are not wearing safety glasses while using compressed air. Kerosene or blasting media in the eye wouldn't be much fun.

Just looking out for you safety, buddy.

 

Hey Aaron,
what are you using, for sound deadener?. You should check out this page. They found out lizard skin is just microballoons added to paint, you can get a bag of micro balloons for $20 and use any kind of paint with them, and its identical to the lizard skin thats $160 for 2 gallons

its a spray on sound deadener


http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/sh...hp?tid/160411/
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/alte...in-103610.html

you can get a decent bead roller for cheap, My dad got a pretty good one off ebay. you could make some decent replacement panels for the floor, The bead strenghtens the sheet metal up some retarded amount.
I would just por15 over alot of that doesn't have to look pretty as long as its solid

 

He was clearly using his safety squint

 

Absolutely fantastic work!! Can't believe everything you're doing and discovering while attempting to bring the car back to life.

Can't wait for the next installment.

 

I'm rooting for you, Aaron.
But it bums me out when you find more rust spots.
As I watch the latest clip, I say "Stop! don't do that. We're going to regret it". But deep down inside, it's the right thing to do.
You're a brave man.

 

Note to self: Don't follow safety advice from Aaron Cake.

 

Long sexy eyelashes go a long way to keeping crap out of the eyes. Actually, I just tend not to get stuff in my eye. I'm the first one to put on glasses when grinding, cutting, etc., but I'm not going to put on safety glasses everytime I pick up the blow gun or a can of brake cleaner. Now as far as the sand blasting, I hermetically seal myself into my bunny suite and wear a respirator as well as eye protection (face mask). I once blasted without protection, and was picking sand out of all my orifices for 3 days. And I mean all of my orifi.

DynaMat Xtreme. Pull out of box, remove backing, stick on. Plus I already have 3/4 of a box left over.

Princess Auto has some inexpensive bead rollers as well. At the moment it looks like I will be replacing an "L" shaped area of the floor on the drivers side where all the rot is, so I don't think I will need to bead roll anything.

Anywhere there is a hole, I will be patching. Then the whole floor will be POR-15'ed. I'm not worried about a few weak areas or small pinholes on the seat brackets.

I know I'll find further rust, but at this point I know where, so I don't think there will be any more shocking discoveries. It just kind of sucks that I need to put this much effort into fixing the floors. I looked at them before I bought the car, and they did look and feel solid. Of course the areas that rotted away were internal, so they are easily missed when looking under the car.