Mission May: Complete Twin Turbo FD V8
 

I'm in the middle of making a twin turbo kit for my FD. It currently has a iron block lq9 6.0L which has aluminum heads and uses a manual t56 transmission.

One of the hardest things is turbo placement. I wanted to make manifolds that don't take up much room and don't get in the way of servicing the engine (ie spark plugs). I came up with log style manifolds. Did some flow calculations/simulations, and they would do the job:
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It was time to make them physically now. I've made a bunch of manifolds before where I notched the pipes manually, but it was time to speed things up and first make a notching jig for the lathe:

http://i48.tinypic.com/16kzvnq.png
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...psead90cf7.jpg
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Here are the manifolds coming together and being completed:
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Here is the placement of the turbos & wastegates:
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Here is the intercooler mounted:
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Since I used a single inlet intercooler due to space constraints, I had to make a Y pipe which didn't hinder flow. From my flow calculations/simulation it results in .1 psi drop if the inlets are at 20psi, which isn't too bad.
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Here is the hot pipe tacked up:
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Here is the cold pipe tacked up:
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if anyone needs any tig welding done, shoot me a pm :)

I love build type threads. They always start out with such promise and eventually go up for sale. Good luck it looks great. If you get all sorted out I might buy it some day ;)

i've swapped from rotary to v8 (wow, the wiring was a bitch.),
painted the car myself from scratch (took all of last summer and a crap load of work)
and i've had it for 5 years now
it's not going anywhere -- too much blood, sweat, and tears :) -- will be passing it on to future kids lol

Jesus christ zee!!!!! Id swing by to visit but i gots the flu!! Amazing progress dood! Cant wait to test it out for u ;). Ps i have some work for you to do lol

Nice fabrication. I need to learn how to weld. What is the purpose of the car? Drag. I thought the reason to go to V8 was simplicity, dependably. Going turbo complicates things no? I gather by the iron block this is not meant for track.

Post pictures. Always love a build.

last week of april works for me!

Ian the iron block is stronger than an aluminum block for boosted applications. it weighs 65lb more than the aluminum block. This car's purpose is to be fun on the track. I'm no professional track driver, and have no aspirations to be one either, I just want something that's good on the corners and absolutely mind blowing through the straights. I went with two small t04e-50 trim turbos with a .82a/r t3 housing for this reason. Quick spool. Usually people make full boost around 2500 rpm with these turbos.

This might make people mad, but just know that this is only my perspective. I didn't stick with the rotary because I think it's a ticking time bomb, because of the shear amount of seals in them that can fail. Some people say "they blow up because of bad tuning" etc, but when you have an atomizer plate break off during cruise driving, that to me is a different problem.

I like the simplicity of the lsx engine. It's an extremely easy engine to work on, rebuild, has a lot more support. To make 700bhp reliably, it is the best platform in my opinion.

car weighed 2838lb without me in it and full fluids prior to turbo

zeeshan,

what software you using and did you take into consideration the back pressure from the turbos on your simulation?

love a good build and as a welder love love the fab work, wish i had the time and more equipment.... looking good

solidworks flow simulation

yes i did, i used conservative numbers

thanks man!
i have a lathe, drill presses, plasma cutter, ac/dc tig welder, bead roller, sand blaster, band saw, belt sander.

i'm planning to build a cnc mill this summer after the car is done in may. let me know if you need anything, any time, will be glad to help out the community over the summer when i'm not as busy

^pfft is that all? I've got a screwdriver! :)

that block can make alot more than just 700hp lol

just curious what kind of clutch you're going to have behind it to handle all that torque lol something that will need a vacuum booster like a 300zx? LOL!

What no 3D RP? Even the cupcake series to compliment your shop. I'm sure its compatible with SW.

Hope to see the beast this season

It looks like you would have had plenty of space to merge each port runner into the main runner at an angle instead of 90 degrees. The flow improvement would have been dramatic. Or am I missing something like spark plug interference?

Nice fab work, I'm really jealous that you have the space, skills, and equipment to do this work. I'm tuned in to watch this build :nod:

im using a monster clutch stage three rated for this much power. hehe some guys are making 1500 hp on the stock block, but thats overkill!

that is exactly it, spark plug clearance. the damn plugs are at an angle to head.
you can see in this pic if i angle the runners clockwise (which i have to due to turbo placement), i decrease the plug clearance a lot

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log manifolds in general are poop as you know already :p i didnt want to go with tubular style manifolds either cause they takes too much damn space and i wasnt aiming for anymore than 700bhp

I was initially going to argue the ticking timebomb comment but your building something your dedicated in. Look forward to seeing it run. Built projects are so much more interesting then buying something that is already built. Looks good so far except for the log manifold but sometimes your forced to make compromises.

thewird

i wanna see marco and the v8 twin turbo go for a pass

I wanna see my diff last the season :P

thewird

That makes sense. So my next question is, why not stainless? :P I don't doubt that the SCH40 steel will hold up really well considering the rather weak EGTs of a piston engine compared to a rotary, but in bulk the supplies in stainless aren't much more than mild steel. Of course it requires much more fussy welding.

And why stainless for the intercooler piping instead of the much lighter aluminum? I used to make mine with stainless before I had the equipment to weld aluminum.

Hope it doesn't sound like I'm picking you apart...I just want to understand your decisions.

What EMS are you going to run?

Nice work, keep the updates coming!

I like to use low carbon steel for turbo manifolds because when you weld it the heat affected zone (HAZ) has composition that's very similar to the base metal, therefore the weld has a very similar grain structure to the base metal grain structure. This is because there isn't enough carbon or other alloys to form brittle crystalline structures. Stainless on the other hand will rapidly form brittle crystalline structures at the HAZ. Even though stainless has better creep resistance than low carbon steel, if you consider in the composition at the HAZ, the low carbon steel welds have better creep resistance than stainless welds. You'll notice most properly welded stainless manifolds will crack in the HAZ. (If they crack in the center line of the weld, that is just a bad weld -- wrong filler, little penetration)

Other minor reasons are low carbon steel expands less than stainless steel, don't need to back purge low carbon steel, low carbon steel warps less than stainless steel (not only when welding, but during service too).

You are right, stainless steel weld elbows cost about $1 more than steel in bulk. So cost really isn't a factor.

Ideally, the ULTIMATE manifold would be thick cast stainless steel! I'm planning to make a kit out of this if this works out well in the future. When I get to that point, I will definitely be making cast stainless manifolds because the cost will be justified, the setup well be proven, and there will be no welds to crack :)


I used to make aluminum intercooler piping before. You're right its lighter. For my current setup, it'd be about 6lb lighter. Aluminum on the other hand is absolutely garbage in terms of being scratch resistant! After a couple times removing the piping in and out of the car, they'd be scratched easily. Shit even putting them on the work bench meant they'd get scratched! I can throw my stainless pipes onto the table, across the room (don't ask me why), and they don't get scratched or dented. Another reason is cost. I can get stainless mandrel bends for a lot cheaper than aluminum mandrel bends. $13 vs $22 on average. So it costs less, looks better (yes I've got ricer tendencies hehe), and weighs slightly more -- this is why i use stainless over aluminum.

Man, that car was looking good tonight. Nice work Zeeshan

Subscribed.

You me and Ken need to get together for drinks at your place

I agree, welding stainless can be very easy to get wrong. Controlling heat and keeping the oxygen away will go a long way to help carbon embrittlement but of course the only fix is to anneal the whole manifold after. Not exactly a practical measure for most people. :)

That will be very impressive. I don't know anyone making a cast stainless manifold in the rotary world.

sounds good matt!

intercooler pipes welded!
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spacing between the weld puddles is in an effort to save filler and gas :P

bead rolled the intercooler pipes

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Bead roller....*drool*

aaron if you need your ic pipes beaded you can come use it :)

so beautiful.

downpipe coming together slowly. still gotta recirculate the wastegate dumps. thanks to my buddy brian for helping me out major under the car.
right side setup:
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps81d6b2db.jpg

left side setup:
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps54e41979.jpg

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Zee that looks awesome!! Ill definitely swing by this week :)

Nice work Zee!

Ken, let me know when you're going to swing by and I'll come join you guys.

Dual turbos :)

This things come a long way from when I saw it last winter. Great work man keep it up. Ill have to come check it out too