S4 Stock - S4 streetport Weber 50
 

Engine went bad some time ago....sold my RX8 and now the build starts for the FC. Decided to go Weber...have always loved the style...heard great things about response.....so of we go! Pics of winter...and I guess when its in your blood...it just happens....rotor in the snow....by accident....:lol:

I scored an old housing 13B with an aggressive streetport and a 50 DCO S/P Weber...
Car has full RB exhaust already...going to cut and weld up the 5/6 port tube from presilencer...and need to repolish the header. These are pics as I got parts. Have been working on the car/engine for about a week....so far so good.

Got engine pulled...never used any oil...but trans is going to need a good bath. Found some cut wires from neutral switch on back of trans.

Going to run a Dual Friction CenterForce and RB aluminum flywheel still to come...OEM throw out bearing.

Polished the vac pods on distributor and decided to go with something I've had in mind for some time. Black block, polished front cover, polished intake AND carb.

So here it is after getting the carb rebuilt and polished along with the intake (thanks Robert at RotaryShack), black adjustment screws, fuel inlet and bowl cover, black socket head screws on block to fill open holes and front of water pump housing, stainless socket heads on thermostat housing, cap mount, water pump, crank pulley, intake, stainless nuts on water pump, intake, header, pulley for water pump anodized silver along with both motor mount brackets.

Alternator and fan getting painted tonight...

Also if anyone peeking at my build is interested....not getting any action in the FS sections....don't need this... Rotary Extreme fuel rail

Are those old school rotor housings? Other than the cool logo, why did you choose to use those? The chrome playing on housings got better with every generation, and those are about 15 years older than the car.

SE intermediate?

Not sure about intermediate.....and yeah...old school housings...its a fresh rebuild...so we'll see how well it runs once done.

Updated pics of paint..

very sweet, the intake came out awesome! engine colors look good too

It has 2 be a old school block if you have the old school housingsssssssss.................why did you decided 2 go with a old school 13b over a newer gen block?

I bought it that way. No other reason....

Got new gaskets for water pump housing.....found the housing from my S4 is different from front steel on new engine....my housing has the alternator bracket bolt going into steel....new engine steel doesn't receive that bolt...any ideas on what housing I need to track down....or can I just jb weld that hole in the housing... tap new threads to use shorter bolt...?...ideas and help appreciated...

Attachment 499585

To my taste....newly anodized infini bar...and polished ends...

Finally ready to come together after flywheel arrival, water pump housing modifications, right gasket....

Looks really good! Excited to see how this will look in the engine bay :icon_tup:

Thanks man....hope I can clean up the bay the way I want once its in. Here is the tranny in hi temp paint, Himni trans and engine mounts still to go in at the very end

Its in....cleaning up old harness....tucking wires.....fuel set up and throttle to go

Wow that looks great. Can't wait till it hits the streets.

Motorcycle filters look nice!!! Disconnect in...not fond of wheel...but works for now....

Great looking car. Glad to see the center force clutch disk :) I wish I could buy the disk with out the pressure plate. It really is the smoothest street clutch.

Put fresh gas in it....coolant...then fire!! Tonight! Made a throttle linkage, not getting to WOT, going to find a nice set up eventually...but should get me by for start up and break in.

i wont use those socks..it creates too much restriction on the air flow

Thank you for the feedback Siraniko. Take off the red sock...black filter ok?...

Looks amazing! I bet it'll sound even better! We need some vids once she is brapping around :icon_tup:

Have never tried to load a video....but will try to figure it out. Meanwhile, loosing fuel pressure once car starts....power to pump shuts off. ? Guess have to wire pump to battery...

you can purchase air horn caps, comes with a metal screen to secure the foam filter. however, ditch the foam filter and replace it with sink strainer (yeah the one from asian market or $0.99 store) cut out the fitthe cap. this will ensure to get air flow and prevent carb from sucking rocks and debris.

better to run an independent wire from alternator to a 30 amp automotive relay to fuel pump and use the stock fuel pump wire or similar to trigger the relay.

Was going to run it to the battery....is there a difference? Was going to go to the battery so I wouldn't have to tear apart the wire job I did to alt/dizzy/coolant sensor...:)

hook it up to the engine fuse box @ 80amp terminal

What's to stop the fuel pump from running in the event of an engine stall? Or worse, an accident. I never did understand carbs or older cars... :dunno: On a car with an ECU, if there is no RPM, the pump does not run.

you can always install an oil pressure switch between the ignition and relays trigger. IIRC its made by holley... no pressure no fuel pump

80AMP terminal it is!

So I hooked up relay to fuel pump....to get direct power to pump....same issue. No fuel pressure once car starts. I've done the search....to no avail. Anyone know which two wires (positive/negative) to pump? There is the pigtail with four wires....I haven't been able to find which two I need and I don't want to lose the gauge if the other wires operate sending unit.

are you saying fuel pump turns on but looses pressure when engine is running?

It looses voltage once it fires....thought it might be due to eliminating some of the fuel injection wiring. Was thinking of just wiring it straight and putting it on a toggle switch.

just run a toggle switch to control the relay for now. ignition wire so it will be off without the key. what brand/psi pump are you using?

Factory pump...Mallory 4309 regulator....I was planning on the relay....but through the factory wiring...it does the same thing as before I ran the direct power wire...so I was thinking just power and ground to pump..

PSI I am setting at 4...

Anyone have the designation of the wires on pigtail for pump? I think they are Red, Black, Black/white, black/?.....just looking for some help with direct wiring to pump to get this thing fired up....Diagram I found said to do this:

Cut white/red wire on harness to splice in the relay (30 side), splice a ground wire from black wire, to ground for opposite ends of the relay of course....but no on power...still quits. Assuming I just need to eliminate the factory wiring to the pump pigtail. Correct me if I'm wrong on any of this please.

when you ported the exhaust, did your motor heave the exhaust flow channels?

and if so how far did you take them down?

The motor was already built...but they were removed...nice huge opening...:)

Can't get no love on the forum? No one has ever put a toggle switch on factory pump without using a relay? Four wires on pigtail....should only need two...

alternator-fuse-#30 relay
87 or 87a-fuel pump
86-ignition 12v
85-ground

Got the right info thanks to Siraniko....big props! Hope tonight is the night to finally break in new motor and go for a spin!! Any quick tips on how to post vids from phone?

Got it figured out!!! FIRED UP!!! This thing sounds nasty!! One more hour of break in and need to get a better throttle set up....want to try and figure out how to load a video too.

For anyone looking for wiring straight to pump....looks like its the SOLID black for ground....and black/white for power. Thanks for all the help Siraniko!!

Good to hear its running now :icon_tup: As for uploading a video, you can use Youtube's app for your phone. You can upload the recorded video straight that way. You can also just plug your phone into a pc and upload from there as well.

Would love to see some close up of throttle linkages. Found the Systec, the Weber over carb/under carb....anything custom out there to get to WOT successfully? SHOW ME WHAT YOU GOT!

i made this simple but effective throttle cable bracket for my sons fb with 48dco which is similar to yours. goes on top of the inspection plate

as a temp fix use an alternator or smog pump bracket

Does the hole location need to be parallel to the elbow on the carb? Seems like to get to WOT it would need to be below?...