The lights aren't using the stock wiring, I hope.

I'm not sure. I wasn't the one who installed it. I know one sides light is blown or something because the light doesn't come on.

I do agree, to properly remove each connector, then an entire interior strip is required, which is my next project once I get the Haltech and fuel sytem worked out. However, I heat shrunk the unuse wires and taped them up. Not happy, but it will do for a month or two until I decide what I want to do.

/thread jack

I'll give it more of a lookover soon, the connectors are the only things that look messed up. The wiring all looks fine.

I want to see how these lights are hooked up, its bad to be hooked up to.the stock wiring?

Aftermarket headlights will need beefier wiring. I made the mistake on my truck and upgraded the lights without any wiring work and I fried my switch. It could do more damage though from what I read

Ill have to take off the headlights and look. I think I may have to rewire it but I'm not really sure how.

Couldn't I just put an inline fuse if its on the stock wiring or will that not help.

Not help really.

Wiring the new lights in is technically simple and the execution can range from totally stealth to pretty obvious, depending on your skill level/creativity.

Just interpose two standard automotive relays between the lights and the old headlight socket(s).
The original wires that used to power the lamps become the coil triggers on the new relays. The relays pull power from a new fused battery source (keyed or not, doesn't matter) and deliver to the new lights.

You've relieved the original system from carrying major current (a good thing) and now use it merely to activate relays, nothing changes functionally.
You can size the new power wires appropriately for the lamps and the new system is completely isolated from the stock harness, any faults remain localized.
This is very similar in concept to the more common power window relay mod.

It's win/win.

I'll look at it tommorow and post pics. I know the xenon hid box is right next to the passenger side headlight.

I'm really bad when it comes to wiring , so any help assisting me will be greatly appreciated.

OK so this thing is hooked up really weird. One side has the box hooked up.to what would normally connect to the headlight and from the box it has two wires coming off it going to a completely non stock connector. (As shown in pics)

The other side is connected with the normal connector.

Both sides have completely different lights inside.

There's also a light under the main bulb that's not connected to anything and only one side has the harness, apparently the other sides is missing.

Idk how this setup even worked properly. It seems pretty ghetto to me. Even when I tried turning it on before only one side turned on (side connected like stock). Maybe the bulb is bad idk.

What should I do? I'd like to have it hooked up.properly and working the way it should, I don't want to be using two.different types of bulbs because the connectors are different. I think they should be the same.

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Got to looking at the harnesses and decided to rewrap everything or at least wrap over the parts that aren't falling apart.

Was going to take the engine harness out but.it.got dark, ended up breaking the passenger side kick panel when I pulled it back >.<

im enjoying reading your form hope to keep getting updates.

Rust fix before and after

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sweet
 

nice project and good deal

Thanks. I've still got alot of work ahead of me.

Limited on funds so its been rather slow lately, I need to get quite a few parts for preventative maintenance and just some miscellaneous stuff.

Took a look at the fuel pump today. Thing looks ancient so I'm gonna go ahead and say its stock.

I want to upgrade to an fd fuel pump or a walbro.

I have 720cc secondaries and I want to get an rtek.

I may end up having to run it without the upgraded pump or ecu for breakin , or just wait until I get both.

The fact that ill have to send my ecu in is what bothers me, I don't want the car to just sit without being started up.

You can put up a wtb ad for a s4 or s5 turbo ecu depending on what setup/ wire harness is on your car. I picked up a s4 ecu from a very reputable member for dirt cheap, my plan was to send that ecu out to rtek for the upgrade while I continue to drive my car however I'm on the fence about considering putting more money away and just getting a standalone system.

If you have a s4 harness there's someone in the west section selling a stage 1 rtek ecu in the $100 range

The 1.7 for 130? I could get mine upgraded for 150 if I send it out and it'd be fully tested. Lol

I'm still working on getting more of the parts I need and realizing how much I've had to buy to get this car right and just wow..

The car would be running sooner if I was willing to run the car with questionable old parts, but I'm not the type to half ass my work. That's why the car needed all this work in the first place!

I want to do everything right the first time, that way my only job is driving, and making sure everything is working the way it should be.

Here's some pics of my engine rebuild done by rotary resurrection.

Notice how nice everything is, especially the housings.


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I went to the junkyard and picked up an oil cooler with intact lines and mounts. That took care of my problem of needing new oil cooler lines and mounts.

I also picked up a clutch fan so I don't have to deal with installing an e-fan.

The only other thing I got was the air ducting that goes near the hood release and overflow tank, since mine was missing.

I got a that for $60 , it did take alot of dedication to get off the rear oil cooler line, had to get a socket the junkyard loaned me and attached my vice grips to the end of my 1/2" drive wratchet to give me that extra torque I needed to break it loose.

Was going to take the FTP lenses until the plastic part broke on one side where the metal stud goes into it.

Tested all my injectors and they all came out with 2.4 ohms.

So I guess I may as well sell the 4 extra ones I have.

Ill be running 550cc primaries and 720cc secondaries that came from a gsl-se.

All the extras are 550cc.

Hit the rest of what I could in the bay with some spray paint. Will put on a clear sealer coat next.

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Engine bay looks really nice, keep up the good work!

Just ordered a bunch of parts car should be up and running soon, very little is needed beyond what I ordered.

The list of stuff I ordered/purchased :

1)Injectors cleaned at injector rehab 550 primary/720 secondaries
2) Mazda fl22 coolant , two one gallon jugs.
3)denso o2 sensor
4)headlights/windshield wipers
5) belts/hoses
6) ngk spark plug wires
7) Banzai block off plates for everything including omp
8) Banzai dual alt pulley
9) motor and transmission mounts, shifter bushings
10) water temp gauge and boost gauge
11) idemitsu pre mix
12) 20w50 Castrol gtx/pure one oil filter

All that's left that is
1) still need is my oil cooler flushed, radiator flushed (or possibly a replacement that's an upgrade),
2) clutch if mines too worn, possibly a throwout bearing
3)Battery
4)fuel/vacuum hoses/vacuum caps
5)miscellaneous crush washers/bolts/orings that I need to replace (hoping I can get these at Napa).
6) down pipe fixed/weldrd where it cracked by the flange closest to the turbo
7) fan shroud

I've already got everything else already as far as gaskets, thermostat, rad/filler caps, fuel filter, etc

The only thing I didn't get new is a water pump, I've got two and I'm gonna use one of them.

Hopefully I'm not missing anything else if I am ill be getting it!

OK few more things I am going to get after putting more thought into everything, clutch/transmission related.

1) clutch kit , probably exedy
2) Mazda OEM pilot bearing/seal and throw out bearing
3) front and rear transmission seals
4) transmission/diff fluids

While you are ordering the transmission seals, pick up a speedometer gear oring. I like to change that when changing the other seals.

Why replace it if it still works? I cant verify that mine works since I've never driven my car though.

Why are you replacing the transmission seals then?


Good progress, how soon do you think till you swing your new engine in the bay?
Also I have an Excedy clutch in my car and it performs well and is not too pricey.

:icon_tup:

Replacing the seals for preventive maintainence, I've never done them before though last time I had a transmission shop do it since they did it pretty cheap.

I could do the speedo oring , but I've never had any speedometer problems in the past (assuming a bad oring here would cost)

The excedy clutch I'm looking at is the 07067 model its around 150-160 shipped on eBay.

The oring is a seal. It is on the bottom of the transmission where the speedo cable hooks up.

Gotta take out the cable then to remove and put in the new one I'd think then.

No, but the cable just screws on. You remove the single bolt holding in the speedo gear and pull it out. It is easier to change than the other seals and costs less than $5. I've had two transmissions that seeped there. Just trying to help since you will be draining the transmission anyway.

Anyhow, good job on getting the car this far. It will be rewarding to get it going.

Just ordered an exedy clutch , OEM style.

Will be ordering an upgrade for an rtek 1.7 and getting a walbro 255 lph as well.

I'm putting together everything on my Turbo and noticed I'm missing the biggest heat shield on my s5 Turbo.

Contemplating porting the wastegate or just leaving it stock, will have to do that very soon.

You should port your wastegate while its right there. You will be most glad you did.

Wish I had someone to assist me since it'll be the first time I've done it.

I've got a drill to do it with but ill need to buy the bits I need to do it with.

I've read using a die grinder/dremel is best but unfortunately I don't have one.

Don't use a drill, you'll kill it.
They aren't meant for that sort of continuous, heavily loaded duty.

You'll also dull those big expensive drill bits long before you get through the cast iron. Get the dremel and some carbide bits. The dremel is so useful for tons of other projects in the future, too.

I know it's kind of late but you can just buy a heavy duty relay harness from eBay for cheap for your HID setup instead of making one. Just get the right one for the wiring type and bulb size, if I'm not mistaken I believe the stock wiring type is 9004 and the bulb size is H4.

My relay harness is not an eBay one but if you are looking for something of quality and can stand high heat use this one Bi-xenon: 'MotoControl 9003/H4/HB2 - Relay Harnesses from The Retrofit Source Inc.

This is what I use, and it's easy to snake through and install assuming you have a pair of ballast.

I already got regular headlights.

How much is a dremel like 40 bucks?

Just ordered my walbro 255lph and rtek 1.7 ecu woot.

Now ill look into getting an aeromotive adjustable fuel pressure regulator, the heat shield I'm missing on my Turbo, my oil cooler flushed and whatever else can think of that I decide my rx7 can't live without. :-D

I've contemplated going with an aftermarket FPR. What are the advantages of that over the stock unit? My setup is FD fuel pump, stock lines/rails and ID1000 primary and secondaries.

Alright, HIDs are a great visibility upgrade. I run a projector so it also spreads the light without blinding oncoming drivers.

You can get Dremels I believe starting at $40-$50. I got mine for $70, higher speed for quicker cleaner cutting.

Any plans for your build like tracking or just daily driving?

Its aimed towards a daily driver street car with the ability to auto x etc.

Ive already got suspension mods, the next really big upgrade ill need is a better radiator, hopefully the stock after market one I have now will keep up.

Awesome, I plan on the same. Great job so far man!

Decided its time to remove the exhaust so I get the downpipe fixed where the seam broke at the flange, it was all welded together so I had to take off almost the entire exhaust.

I got almost everything I need, just need to port my waste gate, get the Turbo heat shield I'm missing and I can start putting the block together I'm pretty excited.

Exhaust is 2.5" for the most part and 3" in the middle , that should be good for my stock Turbo.

Plan is to run 10psi at the most, I don't believe this top mount intercooler will keep my intake temps low enough at higher boost, unless I find conclusive information show 11 lbs is okay

:lol:fyi. with the stock ECU my result of me removing the smog pump and putting a block plate on the LIM was backfire during decel. Put the pump back on and the valve and backfiring gone. Plus you exhaust don't smell as bad. Negligable power loss by the pump.

ps- you got to find a better home for that car!

My car never had an air pump even when I bought it, its only in that spot because it has nowhere else to be lol, I like having as little as possible for accessories.

I like the spot its in because no one can really see it.

Ported the waste gate until the bit holder refused to hold the bits (cheap tool).

I got the smaller hole opened up a bit but not long after starting the bigger hole the bit holder grinded out the insides of itself where it held the bits.

I figure its still an improvement over stock,my down pipe is 2.5" and the mid pipe is 3" and.then it goes back to 2.5" for the cat back, so boost creep shouldn't be a concern, at least I.hope not.


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Just had some surgery done so dropping the engine in will be delayed until I'm fully recovered, but I plan on getting it done by the end of the month if all goes well.

Draining the gas tank now and need to get the old gas out the lines.

Rotary > Pistons