Pretty awesome drifting, just wish the camera was better... my ears were killing during some of the footage lol
Still, I would like to see a dyno sheet when you're all done and get a solid tune :nod: |
i need to find a tuner that knows whats what before i can post anything. the tune is horrible right now.. like 10:1 afr's at 3k rpm. 11.5 at 5k. 9.8 at 7k.. etc...
|
Originally Posted by stevensimon
(Post 10996572)
i need to find a tuner that knows whats what before i can post anything. the tune is horrible right now.. like 10:1 afr's at 3k rpm. 11.5 at 5k. 9.8 at 7k.. etc...
|
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...s/IMAG0084.jpg
aero finally came in so i can start on the beauty/body work. (aero is from hotline and fits very very well. this pic is of it just set on the car, no mounting done yet) have a few drift events under the belt with the new setup. still ironing out problems but its seasoning well. last weekend i had a few set backs. blew the heater core coolant port cap. had an off course that netted in losing exhaust hangers. took exhaust off and ran open dp for rest of the event. was amazing sounding. backing up my driveway though, the dp flange caught on a raised lip in my cement sidewalk and it wadded the dp up, so that needs to be rebuilt. list of other things needed: mr2 pump bracket built and pump plumbed and installed redo rotor 3 coil mount floor mount the seat repair and reinforce broken intercooler mounting tab build bash bars find second job |
started putting stickers all over my car
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...IMAG0172-1.jpg should be finished with it today. should i do the hood blue too or leave it black? |
now presented in full color
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...s/IMAG0096.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...IMAG0094-1.jpg not bad for 80$ worth of supplies |
sticker? whats that?
|
If you don't mind me asking how did you order from HOTLINE? All I see is a 'store website coming soon' on their site. Also what did the kit run you cost wise?
+1 Vote for a blue hood. |
Originally Posted by AGENDARX7
(Post 11049611)
sticker? whats that?
Originally Posted by pontiackid
(Post 11049622)
If you don't mind me asking how did you order from HOTLINE? All I see is a 'store website coming soon' on their site. Also what did the kit run you cost wise?
+1 Vote for a blue hood. |
I love how it looks in blue! I can't wait to see some videos of it sliding now... good quality, not like the last ones lol
|
yeah maybe now that it looks slightly better, more people will feel inclined to film it.
|
had a photoshoot yesterday, these are some of the preliminary shots.
this car is so brutal on the streets.. twice i had to stop and reattach body panels http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5..._4717-edit.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5..._Version_2.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5..._4689-edit.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...s/DSC_4685.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...s/DSC_4680.jpg the engine doesnt really look pretty anymore but thats ok. this is a track car. no garage queen here. |
so with a newfound power and super lowness something happened. i killed the clutches in my diff. the chassis has over 200k on it and im sure still the same oil that was poured in it by some cute japanese girl that was 19 at the time.
after a few embarrassing moments of high centered car or 400hp and not able to even do a doughnut, i had enough. my internal conflicts were great though. weld the stock diff? rebuild it? install an expensive kaaz unit? i decided to rebuild/shim it. after looking for a bit i couldnt really find a write up so i decided to go about learning and fixing it up myself. ive never been inside a clutch type diff before but here is what i learned. i used this write up to ease my diff removal http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=3272.0 after diff is out of the car, and you pull the cartridge out of the case, you will have this oily mess on your kitchen table http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...f/CIMG2649.jpg take note of a key feature; alignment marks of some sort http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...f/CIMG2650.jpg take off the ring gear and expose these little bastard screws that hold the diff together. make sure to use the correct size screw driver, the screws will strip easily. also a trick i learned is to put a pair of vice grips on two opposing ends of the diff. this will keep it from spreading open and make it easier to remove the screws; do this when re-installing screws too, or you can use a bench vice. http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...f/CIMG2652.jpg first peering inside http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...f/CIMG2653.jpg clutch pack out of cartridge http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...f/CIMG2655.jpg make sure to pay attention to how the stack goes. dont want to redo this sloppy messy job because you put something in backwards check out how torn up these things are http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...f/CIMG2658.jpg the springs show wear too. i just put the worn spring in the center of the two other not worn springs. http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...f/CIMG2666.jpg i also slammed a few cokes so i could build some shims first design were these; i made 4 total http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...f/CIMG2661.jpg but after the reinstallation kept buggering up, i clipped off the ears and it made it an easier job to put together. the shims go on the outsides of the clutch pack, between the springs and cartridge http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...f/CIMG2668.jpg reinstalled http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...f/CIMG2669.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...f/CIMG2670.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...f/CIMG2674.jpg put cartridge back in housing and put everything back together. tomorrow i will find out if this worked or if im going to have to tear it all down again. |
Yes! a writeup with pics, finally. Thanks.
Do you have a way of measuring break away torque without completely reinstalling the pumpkin? I've read some threads on the miata forums and they are shooting for around 90 ft/lbs keeping in mind that readings typically drop a least 10 ft/lbs once the shims and clutches settle in. Considering that the FC is significantly heavier I'd imagine you'd want at least 100-115 ft/lbs breakaway (once settled) |
Car looks awesome, now hurry up and get some good footage of you drifting... I really want to heal a clear sound of the engine :nod:
|
Originally Posted by sharingan 19
(Post 11079756)
Yes! a writeup with pics, finally. Thanks.
Do you have a way of measuring break away torque without completely reinstalling the pumpkin? I've read some threads on the miata forums and they are shooting for around 90 ft/lbs keeping in mind that readings typically drop a least 10 ft/lbs once the shims and clutches settle in. Considering that the FC is significantly heavier I'd imagine you'd want at least 100-115 ft/lbs breakaway (once settled)
Originally Posted by 2RotorSpeed
(Post 11079925)
Car looks awesome, now hurry up and get some good footage of you drifting... I really want to heal a clear sound of the engine :nod:
Next episode will be installing and wiring electric Mr2 steering pump |
i may have posted this elsewhere but whatever
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...s/DSC_4973.jpg last night i changed my clutch hydraulics because with the car running it was hard to change into reverse and no amount of bleeding would alleviate the issue. also had an issue with the starter sometimes not catching the ring gear or grinding noises. after i changed both master and slave for the clutch, i climbed underneath the car to find that i was missing a starter bolt. thought that was the issue with the starter but then i noticed that the engine was seperated from the bell housing about 1/4 inch and i was missing 2 bellhousing bolts and the remaining were relatively loose. also noticed the engine was skewed a bit, upon investigation, i found the drivers side engine mount under the car was loose. replaced bolts, tightened everything down again and reinstalled starter. after cleaning everything up, i tried out the starter and clutch. easy to shift into all gears and it starts correctly. making me think now that the shifting issue was the trans input shaft was not lined up with the e-shaft so it was binding and causing hard shifts. just upkeep and maintainence so far i have had to replace turbo to mani bolts(heat cycle of turbo loosened them and two fell out), repair broken ic tab(probably broke due to loose engine mount). replace transmission bolts. rebuild diff. replace clutch hydraulics. rebuild down pipe. replace 3 exhaust hangers. |
very nice on the build cant wait to see more pics or vids when complet
|
was having high idle issues and determined that a good spot to start was the throttle body so last night i stripped it of all of the overly complicated junk and cleaned it up and reinstalled. have yet to try and run it with the new setup but it sure does look better.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...s/IMAG0038.jpg |
worked on ducting today. first time trying it out. i think it came out ok
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...s/IMAG0073.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...s/IMAG0062.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...s/IMAG0043.jpg |
so one day i was having fun with the car and then i noticed a really funny noise
i took video of this rattly clanky wtfy sound today i decided to finally dive in and figure out this mystery. with velma giving me felash and daphney being silly and dumb, i pulled the trans expecting a shot clutch and fuktup pieces.. i found no such thing. clutch was perfect. a little dust and thats it. argh.. so then i thought possible exhaust sleeve? and pulled the turbo off http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...s/IMAG0219.jpg then i noticed instantly.. center housing sleeve looked wacky and when i stuck my finger in there, it was pretty wobbly but no ability to pull it out. oh and it also looked like this http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...s/IMAG0213.jpg compared to the other sleeves http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...s/IMAG0215.jpg so.. a quick call to karack and we decided that the only real not hillbilly way to fix this mess is to rebuild a perfectly good running 20b. eff.. velma go away |
Better than it blows... and you have to source parts and then do the rebuild. You can now rebuild with a very good starting point.
|
true. im not saying i feel lucky cause i know it could be way worse. its just frustrating to have basically a throw away part be the reason i have to tear down my otherwise perfectly running car. there is a lot of summer left i was hoping to enjoy
|
Originally Posted by stevensimon
(Post 11143748)
true. im not saying i feel lucky cause i know it could be way worse. its just frustrating to have basically a throw away part be the reason i have to tear down my otherwise perfectly running car. there is a lot of summer left i was hoping to enjoy
Can't wait to see this back in action again! Good luck. |
How on earth did that happen? What does the 20b sleeve look like on the inside?
I used n/a rotor housings on my build which have those stupid wings in the exhaust sleeves. My aging builder forgot to swap them out so I had to air chisel/grind them out. A gear oil soaked rag was forced into the chamber after the a large portion was chiseled out and it caught most of the shavings from grinding the port smooth afterward. I was skeptical but the engine runs great and pulls 20+ vac |
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:51 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands