Haynes manuals are a cruel joke.

The best aftermarket service manuals I've ever seen are Bentley's (the publisher, not the carmaker).
Exhaustively complete and charmingly British, a Bentley manual delivers on the promise that Haynes makes but cannot fulfill.

This is true. There are alot of things it barely covers, if at all! Im starting to suspect that the one i have isnt exactly for my type of 13b either. It can be confusing at Times.. Looks like im back at work now but this evening im gna start putting together the supporting components and hopefully be ready to drop her into the Engine bay. Evidence of how Long its taken to get my Engine loes in the amount of dust that has already made its way Into the Engine bay. I got my greasy mitts on some really Good cleaner at work so that should make Quick work of the rest of the cleaning i have left to Do. I have everything i need now as far as can see apart from my fuel filter which i just have to pick up. I went to my local hydraulic hose supplier yesterday and they gave Me the hoses for Free! Proper Nice of them and very service minded if i Do say so meself..

my brain is melting. im sitting here in the garage with everything in front of me with the haynes manual and the internet at my disposal and having absolutely zero, zilch, bugger-all luck working out what im going to block off on the vacuum harness.

Attachment 659367

thats how she looks. i have removed my acv and egr, and ill be actuating my auxiliary ports with an electric pump. from what i have read, most of the vacuum is used to control emissions and as far as can see, i have taken away all the things that are emissions related..

what an absolute fucking maze it is. even with it in my hand i just cant seem to work it out. any tips? im doubting that im gna work this out. when i put everything back together as it was will it become obvious then? bugger me what a mindfuck..

Wierd evening..5 hours at the garage and it feels like all i have done is go round in circles picking up parts, muttering darkly at them/ to myself then putting them down and then staring at the haynes manual like a caveman whos just seen a Wheel, knows that it could be useful for something but just cant seem to put his finger on it. I shall try a more methodical approach on the morrow and see where it takes Me...
(methodical approach = using my Brain)

I should be on the car ripping into that same mess Saturday morning, I'll make sure to annotate where everything goes for you then- though my advice is to dig through build threads and rats nest threads looking for pictures. (That's what I've had to do in some instances.)

As for block-off... they make both vacuum port nipples and JB Weld. Pick your poison. :D

Thanks samjaza its appreciated. Everyone writes that there are tonnes of threads about this on here but i cannot make head nor tail of that diagram. In the haynes manuals diagram for my model, there are just Four solenoids. I have 5 solenoids like on the diagram for the s5 but mine is An s4. On the diagram for the s4 there isnt even an acv but i have one. On the diagram for the s5 the egr is in A different Place ect.. Its just so confusing.

home and freshly showered after what turned out to be a good 8 hours at the garage. my trusty old buddy joel came to see what all the fuss was about and after going through everything we got cracking. it started fairly slowly but after an hour or two we got up to speed.

its really nice having someone to run things by and especially a more experienced person at tearing down and rebuilding engines. (this is after all, my first time)

block off plates went on. it still seems a little bizarre having to block of two egr's :suspect:
Attachment 659235
Attachment 659236
Attachment 659237

then finished off cleaning and painting the water pump which looked awful..

Attachment 659238

by the time the tiredness started to take its toll my 13b looked like this..

Attachment 659239
Attachment 659240

feels really good to see it looking like this compared to the ball of gunk i pulled out of the engine bay half a year ago.
tmrw is probably gna be the last chance im gna get to do some skateboarding outdoors before the inhumanely cold conditions force me into a life indoors so im gna be back in the garage on sunday and see how far we get.

i have to admit im getting a bit exited! very unbritish if you ask me :blush:

This is by far one of the best and most entertaining build threads I've ever followed! Meerkat, the transformation that your engine and engine bay have undergone is astounding. Even more impressive is the fact that you admittedly have very little previous experience with rotary engines or mechanical work and have managed to come this far! From swapping garage space , countless hours spent cleaning parts, reading Haynes manuals and the FSM, to the usual runaround dealing with engine builders, your adventures (and misadventures), ALL rotary owners have gone through this same trial and tribulation. So, fear not, you have the support of a shitload of guys here on the forum and we're all rooting for you to complete this project and finally experience the satisfaction and thrill of driving an RX7 :)

thanks placd 1! this forum and the people on have been a great source of inspiration and have given me loads of tips, advice and encouragement without which i wouldnt have come so far. there is a veritable bounty of info on here that is also written in laymans terms that, once you get used to the abbreviations, is priceless to a hobby mechanic like me. i really had no idea what i was getting myslef into when i got this car but i have learnt a hell of alot and the journey, whilst long and frustrating at times, has been alot of fun!

i must admit i drunk one or two guinesses too many last night with the lads which was confirmed by the splitting headache and cottonmouth i woke up with at 1pm this afternoon so it was a late start and not exactly in line with how i had envisioned today would go. a litre of coffee and some belaboured groans later, i weaved my way down the motorway to the garage and got started. fortunately i had written down a list of things to do on friday so that saved me using my brain too much. mainly small bits and bobs really while i waited for joel to turn up.

changed the fuel filter, cleaned up and painted the alternator which we had previously taken apart. ive never seen the inside of one it wasnt quite what i expected. put the oil cooler back on. (wonder if it would look cool with a smaller "bosozoku style"external oil cooler on the front?) and a couple of plastic panels which i couldnt for the life of me remember where they went. at least there was a picture in the manual of that! joel turned up and i had just started fabbing up my clutchplate alignment tool.

Attachment 659050

sorry did i say fabbing up? i meant whittling down hehe. i have done this two times before and it works ok. i knew that whittling when i had nothing to do as a kid would come in handy someday i just had no idea it would be this:lol:

we was gonna pop over to joels garage to get his motor lift when he realised that he'd forgotten the keys so we drove to his house and back which takes an hour without traffic. with the motor lift in my garage i proceeded to jack up the car while he was putting on the clutch plate and housing. then we found a problem. two bolts cant seem to reach the threads on the racing beat flywheel. these two boltholes dont have threads inside until a bit further in.

i just found this on racing beats website..

does this mean that i put in these bolts from the rear of the flywheel? it doesnt make sense. i dont remember any of the bolts being different or having different colors for that matter although they were a bit dirty. we measured how long thes bolts would have to be and got 300mm. i took a sample bolt and will try to source one if i have the time tomorrow. (they have really fine threads) trouble is i have a job interview after work and thats at 5pm. the kind of places that sell this kind of stuff arent famous for being open late here in sweden. my boss is a car enthusiast too so i hope he will sympathise with my plight and let me sneak off at lunchtime to sort this out.

And he was! Got 6 New bolts in the correct length. Not like im sitting here at work waiting to get to the garage or anything =p

at work today thinking of nothing but my rx7, (im seriously obsessed) i gave some thought to the oil cooler i had slapped on yesterday and realised that i hadnt flippin well flushed it out and considering there were at least three pieces of metal floating around in the engine before i dismantled it that could have been a dangerous thing to overlook. i looked it up and found a thread that explained a trick to keep the bypass valve open so that i could reach all the nooks and crannys using the nice stuff i got from work that does wonders with getting rid of gunk. trouble is it didnt work. or i did it wrong. one of the two anyway. and i wasted loads of time doing it. bah humbug. tmrw im gna take a kettle and use the boiling water technique instead.

on a positive note, the bolts were a perfect length. the only thing im a little worried about is that it was balanced with the original bolts and it can only have been four of them or six if he hadnt used the spacers. either way im wondering if the longer (longer=heavier) bolts would affect the balance or am i just obsessing? probably. well they're on and torqued to 19nm.

another cool thing is that a father-son duo have moved in to the garage beside me and are proper friendly and helpful! its a really nice little community among the garages here which makes being at the garage even more of a pleasant experience.

weary as i was it was nice to walk around the car and take it all in. it really is a unique car. in a time where cars are starting to look more and more the same, i feel lucky to be an rx7 owner...

Yes, rotaries excel at looking good in a garage.

Haha so true! It is after all their natural habitat. Preferably on jack stands =p
I heard a rumour that its going to snow next Week. I Hope its not true...

It's already snowed here once, supposed to again today.

Thanks, Obama.

Shit!! Not Good. At least you know that your Seven is running. Im hoping that the Engine is gna go in this evening. Then well see what problems arise as they Most probably will when i start her up tmrw.

I am working with my lathe buddy today (i dont know what you call a person that Works with stuff like that) and we discussed the next stage of this Project which Will be Widening my Steel wheels. He has some ideas so im going to leave one with him this weekend so that he can make a plan.
Im also considering changing all my bushings this Winter to some better quality Ones. Ahould make all the difference. Joel suggested an lsd to Me we'll have to see what my wallet says about that!

she's a right old tease, thats for sure..
me and joel sorted out the oil cooler and put together the alternator. it was well worth cleaning it up! remembered that when i had first got the exhaust system the chap i had bought it from threw in two belts for the double alternater pulley. i also remembered that he had suggested it in the first place. shoulda listened..

looked in the boot of my dd and there they were so we put them on. it definately looks cleaner and simpler without the cats cradle of belts that usually are needed for all the poopy-crap that i have deemed unnnessecary for my driving pleasure.

we started to drop the engine in and after 20 minuites of fighting with the stubborn bugger it just wasnt going in. we decided that it would be easier to just drop the gearbox and put it on before dropping in the engine which turned out to be a good idea. a bit of wiggling and *plop* and on it went. lovely.

Attachment 658620

this was, as it turned out a good thing because it was then that joel noticed a small hole to the right hand side of the coolant temperature sending unit. i have no knowledge of removing anything from this place, i looked every where in the engine bay and found nothing that should have been there.

heres a pic of it anyhoo

Attachment 658621

its the hole to the right hand side of the sending unit directly under the oil filter.
i had to check earlier in the thread to see which housings i had changed out and it was the middle and rear. considering the intermediate housing came back with a place for an egr valve that was not on my original housing, im starting to wonder if this is something similar. can it be for a turbo model? if anybody could identify this i would appreciate a heads up on what its for cos i cant find anything about either on the net or in the manual. i will continue looking after this post even though i should be hitting the sack.

we also think that we may have put the harness on a bit wrongish. may have to take off the intake again further delaying the engines arrival in its nice, soft, inviting mounts which it seems reluctant to be on.

yet another day of being in the garage for 6 hours, doing stuff, and then leaving not feeling like we've done anything..

that snow had better hold off...

my theory is this.

this hole is for an "oil pressure gauge sensor" which i dont have on my s4 because the only thing i found in the manual pertaining to oil pressure was an "oil pressure control valve" (and i dont remember having an oil pressure gauge on my display/console:scratch:)

am i right then in assuming that the two irons i have are from an s5 and all i need to do is block off this hole?

It is for the oil pressure sending unit and AFAIK, all RX-7s had pressure gauges.

Ooopsie.
Did some checking to confirm this and discovered that Swedish regulations resulted in some detail changes.
Your oil pressure gauge was swapped for a compass.

Fortunately, the compass sending unit will screw right into the same hole, so you're OK.

Brilliant! I Always thought that my gps was way too efficient. I keep turning up to Places unfashionably early. =p i have no idea where i would get my hands on one of these gauges. Spare parts are really thin on the ground here for these Cars. I May go with an aftermarket one if it fits in the hole. Probably easier to get a hold of and the clocks a-ticking..

I really must look at the console to see if i actually had an oil pressure gauge.. Its a bloody Good Insurance in Case anything wierd happens that can result in the more common State of the 13b..

i realised today that i am thoroughly exhausted. sleep gets more important the older you get apparently. i did do some shopping on the way home though.

Attachment 658551

im taking the day off today. tmrw ill be back in the garage with eyelids that stay up with less effort.

Can you post a picture of your cluster? I wanna see what it looks like without the oil pressure gauge there...

@driftxsequence certainly my dear chap! Im curious myselg as to if i have one i really dont remember how it looked. I even googled Pictures of the cluster and couldnt find any that didnt have it so i assume that there should be one there. This is what has Me utterly confounded. I have been very careful to Place all parts that i have removed from the car either in the boot, taped to the windshield or on the roof. The pile of parts has been getting smaller and smaller as the Engine has become more complete so theres Only a few bits left. I have absolutely no recollection of removing anything from there, (i remember the water temperature sender though) and there is also the fact that the rear housing has been changed for one from god knows what model fc3s. I Think i read somewhere that even turbo and 6pi housings are interchangeable. Ill be down there straight after work and ill give a bit more info then =)

This is (approximately) the part you're looking for:
Attachment 658458

It is commonly referred to as "mushroom shaped" by people who have never seen a mushroom, apparently.

Yep! Looks exactly like the one i bought yesterday! I personally would have gone for acorn shaped =)

No oak trees in Sweden I gather.

they do have em but theyre more into birch trees (birch in swedish is called björk. figures i suppose)

another fun fact about the swedish language is that as far as i know, an acorn is called an ollon, which is also slang for the tip of ones willy. at least they got that likeness right =)

another fun fact while were on the subject is that they actually have a word for rubbing your "ollon" on things. (olla) which makes me wonder how often it has happened here so that they were forced to create a word for this most naughty of acts...

right. back to business. i just got to the garage and noticed two things.

1. i DO have a oil pressure gauge. heres the picture as promised..

Attachment 658457

and i still dont bloody know where the sender is, if i had one to begin with.

2. the oil pressure sender i got is quite large and i would probably need to gring the housing a couple of millimeters so that it will fit. another problem is that it looks like the water temperature sender is also in the way on the other side.
joels gonna come here straight after work so ill wait untill i get the grinder out untill i have run it by him. this is kind of annoying because i dont know if i have taken the oil pressure sender off and forgotten, or if it wasnt there to begin with. i dont even remember if the oil pressure gauge worked i only drove the car for a month and then it broke. i have spent way more time in the engine bay then i have in the drivers seat. i geuss that makes me an official rx7 owner at least...

The stock unit has an extension that raises it up above the water temp sender and the lip on the iron.

well that was embarressing. i saw the box of assorted bags i had received back from the builder and had a root around. sure enough i found a bag with oil pressure sender unit on it. "where the faffing faff is that then?"

rooted around and saw that in another box i had seen it, instantly assumed that it was my oil pressure sending unit (which he had shimmed) and instantly forgot again. it fits as well.

note to self..
my memory is bloody dangerous and i shouldnt be left unsupervised with it.

update soon me dears...

thanks clokker! i really need to learn to look properly. i would have seen the purchase of my oil pressure sender unit a waste if it wasnt for the fact that r32 gtr's are notorious for having untrustworthy oil pressure gauges so im sure it will find a new home in that.

today felt really satisfactory. i got let off work early again today and i got to the garage about 3pm. joel turned up after work he really has been a source of invaluable help during this project alongside clokker and the rest of you guys of course :nod: and found me pulling of the intake (for what does not feel like its going to be the last time). we then sorted out the harness so that it was sitting a bit more comfortably. how we had it before could be considered a breach of rx7 rights poor thing.
then it was time to put in the engine, one of my fellow countrymen turned up to hang out. it was really useful with an extra pair of hands and i havent seen him for a while so it was nice to catch up too while the dirt and grease on his hands and clothes accumulated. he didnt seem to mind though and the engine was in in a jiffy. that extra tilty thing joel has on his motor lift is worth its weight in gold. i highly reccomend it. i wasted easily about 45 minuites trying to get the gearbox bracket to line up it was being a right pig. while i did that joel was up there whizzing away and by the time i had connected the various cables that live around the start motor, he had connected the whole harness, which considering he wasnt with me when i was de-installing the engine and without looking even once in the fsm is quite impressive!

i will pause for a moment here to say that one of the most important things i have learnt so far whilst learning about and working on my car and would stress the importance of to the anyone thats about to go through this thats starting with the same level of experience i did (or worse) the value of labelling things and the fact that you can never, ever, evereverever, take enough pictures should never be taken for granted. happy snapping will save you alot of time as well as using good quality tape and a pen that will stand the test of time and clumsy, greasy, grubby fingers. as i got closer and closer to my original starting point, the difference in the time taken to put things back that were clearly labelled that i had taken pictures of compared to those that i must have thought "pfft no way im gonna forget where that goes" was phenomenal. take it from a noob. label that shit up, and take pictures like a japanese tourist. you will be forever grateful to yourself later on.

my names anthony and i support this message :icon_tup:

after wasting on precisely the thing i just mentioned, my engine bay looked like this..

Attachment 658408

i have noticed that i have felt perpetually cold for the last couple of days while my friends and colleuges have not and this evening i got my confirmation...

i have the man flu.

i suppose thats what i get for shaving my head and then promptly misplacing my beenie just as the weather is taking a turn for the worst..

feeling like poo as i do, i resisted the temptation to curl up into the foetal position and feel sorry for myself and do this update. but im gna do it now.

g*night:sleep:

Curl, uncurl, yawn.

Time for that bitch to start, good sir.

Yay! She's in! Lol good job, now to see if she'll run. :D

cheers guys! nah i just feel to unwell im gna stay at home and play video games.

just kidding.. id have to be on the brink of death to stop me going down there.
just got to pick up a couple of bits, transmission oil filler thingy and some copper spacers to the oil cooler which strangely were missing, then its time to turn that key =)

Well, i turned the key, aaaand nothing happened. Not like i wasnt expecting aome troubleshooting. First it was the start motor, relocatIon of the geound Cable fixed that.
Then it wasnt getting any fuel, putting the fuel hoses on the right way round sorted that plus putting petrol in the tank proved to be an advantage =)
Now it seems to be a problem with the ignition. Im 99.9 percent sure the cas is lined up right. Distributor cables are in the correct configuration and its getting enough power. These are all based on Joels deductions.

We'll Try again tmrw.

Its getting really Cold. I reckon it was 0 degrees tonite. Usch...

Almost there!

i know its really exciting! im already thinking of other things im going to do during winter. stll need to sort out the six port actuation, im definately going to change the bushings (the gearbox bushings look really tuckerd out as well) and then we'll see how it goes with the wheels. i have spoke to my mate robban (thats slang for robert here) about it and he seems excited about it as well. itll be fun to see how it turns out!

right im off to the garage to see what can be done to get her coughing to life.

Awaiting results with bated breath.

I'd suspect it's something minor/simple that you're just overlooking.

One tendency I've noticed in myself is to say "I know this is good" (whatever "it" may be) and then to ignore that part/adjustment from then on.
Since there are more than one person working here, maybe switch up and you check their work and they check yours. I'd pay specific attention to the harness and connectors.

Once again, good luck.

thanks clokker!

im hoping that it is something simple. everything closes at five so if i have to run off and buy anything it will probably be too late when i find out what it is..
im gonna do the double check when joel gets here. can never be too careful..


sorry i didnt update yesterday i was so battered i had been at the garage for a really long time and not particularly got anything done on the seven. joel came by for a little while he had to go and pick up a mate from the ferry from finland (a sure sign that that friend must have had a raging hangover. taking that ferry usually results in one)

we had sorted the start motor and fuel lines, then we werent getting any fuel to the front rotor. joel checked the secondary injectors(the injectors that are higher up) and saw that the o-ring was not i good shape (fuel was weeping out of the top of the injector) but it was too late to go and buy o-rings so i had to wait until today to get them. i have replaced them now. hopefully this is the reason that the front rotor housing was not getting fuel because of lost pressure at that point.

joel thinks that the spark is weak but im going to wait until he gets here to check that out.

i had busyed myself with sanding down the front lip while i waited for him to come back(we were going to change rear brake pads on his saab. bloody difficult job when you dont have the tool for the windy pistons) while i was waiting, the guy i share the garage with's dad came by. hes a really experienced mechanic and he noticed straight away that there was a coolant leak.

i searched for it today cos there was coolant lying all over the motor where we had bled the water jacket hose. i dried up all the coolant lying on the engine, then cranked it over manually for a while. i saw that it was leaking from the freeze plug on the right hand side of the water pump on the front rotor. thats the thing..its brand new! i dont see any signs of sealant on it either.

is there anyway for me to solve this without having to pull it out?
i also noticed that there is a little bit of coolant gathering under the header flange. can it be that i need to get it up to operating temp first so that everything expands a bit and tightens properly?

we used new gaskets on the water pump and high quality sealand too so i find it hard to beleive that its leaking from there. the hoses are dry as a bone. i dont get it..

joel just came in so ill continue my investigatins with him which should go better.

the saga continues...

im still not getting fuel to the fron housing. the injector isnt leaking anymore. just thought i would check if i could get it to start anyway.

love your build and I understand what you are going through cause I was there too with the same N/A euro spec engine, but the feeling will be so priceless when it starts

"on the top of the middle housing there was a hole for something which wasnt on the old one. i read that this was for the egr valve"

correct, that hole is for egr valve but on N/A as well, just not for euro market as I never saw it on euro engines to

manuals that we have are not for euro models so it takes a little bit more effort to find out what is what

tube from main converter is conected to that spot, split air to make split air selonoid operational

have you test and clean your injectors?

As for start up, for me it was like this...
after we finaly conected everything and we had fuel and spark and try to start it CAS was slightly out of its position, though it should be in the right position, because it was all like in the manual. So after playing with it about half an hour, take it out, put it in, all in the place and in position, without throttle, with throttle, and it started up... WOW! so that was first start up. Its never easy I suppose.

thanks for the tips risu! i was beginning to wonder if there were anymore guys that have had to go through it with these euro spec 13b's.

i left the garage today feeling a bit demotivated, forlorn and unsure of what i should do.

the current situation is this. everythings connected, the fuel system is not functioning fully yet and the ignition system isnt playing ball either. even with start spray into the air meter it doesnt seem to want to. maybe it is the cas thats mucking me around but i still need to get fuel to the front rotor housing, ill have to check the injectors as per risu's advice.
the thing is, the fact that the leak is coming from the freeze plug (quite a bit actually) means that the builder cannot have tested whether it was tight. it all just seems a bit of a half-assed rush job to take 50,000 kronor from someone(and half a year) for an rebuilt engine and it leaks from what in my opinion is one of the easiest things to do in comparison to the whole clearancing rotors malarky. this obviously makes me concerned about whether anything else hasnt been done properly.

there is also a coolant leak on the exhaust side of the motor that i will have to remove the intake (again) to be able to confirm. it hasnt leaked any oil yet so i geuss i have to be thankful for that.
my garage buddy is saying to me that its a no-brainer and i should just whip out the motor and take it straight back to the builder to be done properly, which i wholeheartedly agree on the grounds of principle should be done. at the same time, that means pulling out the engine, another 700 kilometers in petrol and time to fix something which, albeit annoying (considering the amount of time he took to get it done) i deem to be easier and more cost effective to fix myself as long as it is just that. either way ill have to drain the coolant and oil.

i have read that all i have to do is drill a hole in the freeze plug so that i can get a grip on it and then yank it out. (any tips on a easier way to do this would be appreciated) im assuming that freeze plugs are inexpensive to buy. then i can put in a new one with gasket sealant. unfortunately i would also need to remove the oil pump to get to it because its seriously in the way. it definately stings to be forced to do work that i had payed good money to avoid. the whole idea of me getting this done by an outside party was to speed up the process and have a tight motor, neither of which i have succeeded with so it seems.

there is also this voice constantly in the back of my head saying "youve come this far, you cant just give up" and "i want my build thread to be a success story, not a bloody horror story". maybe im schizophrenic:drool1:

so you guys can see my dilemma (from my perspective of course:))

winter is undoubtably here it is freezing cold which just makes basicly anything that means that i have to be outdoors suck thricefold.

after kind of being at the garage for a couple of hours and not getting anything done and feeling the rising feeling of dispair beginning to take over, i threw in the towel and went home to the missus and more importantly, warmth.

its not all doom and gloom though, richard, (my garage buddy) said that he could call his dad to come and help me with the whole troubleshooting thing. i really want to solve this myself because i know i will learn alot during the process, but i am feeling a bit out of my league to be honest and if anyone can help me, its this guy. he's worked with mechanics his whole life and has been really nice to me so being able to draw on his experience should help expediate the whole troubleshooting process.

another thing is that as to the breaking in of my engine, my car is actaully sitting in a full on painting booth with fans in and out. i dont see why i shouldnt be able to break it in on jacks stands i should be able to route the exhaust gasses into the fans (they are proper strong) thereby eliminating the problem with snow. hopefully im not missing something important there.

"think positive tony, think positive.."

yup, definately schizophrenia...

new day, endless possibilities,

just got to the garage and thought i'd test how the s13 pignose lip i sanded (a tad too much) would look. i just propped it up on stuff but it was just to get a general idea of how it would look..

Attachment 658196

now its off with the intake (again) to find out where the leak on the exhaust side is coming from...

You'll get there.

Presumably.

I would call him, I would throw a screaming fit, and if he wants verification, I would make him come to you, as the motor's already installed.
Don't let him touch it again. And don't pull the freeze plug till you know you have the right replacement.

I feel like doing so but at the same time it just feels pointless. Once again my trust has got the better of Me. I pulled off the UIM today i Only had a couple of hours there. Forgot to remove the pressure (and fuel) from the fuel system so had to deal with petrol pissing all over the Place. After blowing it all over my Nice Newly painted housings that havent seen the heat of operating temperature yet with pressurised air, i saw that coolant was gathering on the top of the housings. I didnt have time to see where it was coming from as i had to leave hastily but tmrw im going to have a proper Butchers at it. I just Hope its the water pump or something.
I may have got a lead on why im getting no fuel to the front housing. But im not going to embarress myself juat yet =p

Its Beer o'clock

More tmrw...

its just a matter of time. i just look at the new guy at the garage next to me. 21 yr old, full-on mechanic who's been taught by his father and has that kinda relationship with him so that they have a business together. he's had to do all those crappy jobs with p.o.s volvos and saabs ect and learnt the hard way and to be honest, im envious of him. i have a luxurious position. the car that im working on is mine, the only person i have to worry about being dissapointed in me if i mess it up is myself and so on. a proffessional mechanic doesnt get this. customers that are constantly suspcious of being cheated, want it done yesterday, and want it done at 'mates rates' too. i now have a whole winter ahead of me. ive said it before and ill say it again. by hell or high water, im gna finish this project. and with the rx7club community behind me, how can i fail?
patience and and honest to goodness stubborness will get me through...:nod:

I thought you'd figure out the fuel issue, given a moment to think about it. :)

As for coolant on top of the housings, that doesn't seem likely for a freeze plug- are all your pesky little intake coolant hoses cinched down?

continuing my search for the mystery leak under the UIM, my perseverance and patience was rewarded.

Attachment 658005

i explained to it that it had forfeited the priveledge of remaining in my engine bay and promptly changed it out. now continues the search for whats stopping fuel from getting to the front housing. i would have needed to remove the UIM to investigate this anyway so two birds with one stone and all that....

right. just gonna run this by you guys to see if im thinking straight.

Attachment 658004

the two blue arrows point to the fuel lines to the secondary injectors. the one on the left is feed and the one on the right is return right? fuel came out of both of them when i removed them.

now as i can see, the fuel goes into the primary fuel rail via the hose i have marked with red arrows, comes out of the other side and then continues up to the secondary fuel rail, through that to the hose marked on the right with a blue arrow, which goes to the fuel return hose, thus completing the loop.

this says to me that fuel is flowing through both rails, but not going through the primary injector to the front housing.

i had swapped the primary and secondary injectors with each other as per bruce turrentines advice in the rotary aviation video because he said that it was like putting new injectors on the primaries as the secondaries dont get used that often or at least not as much as the primaries.

this makes me wonder if one of the secondary injectors was clogged/broken before but the car would still start and run. it did have a hesitation around 4k before. i dont know if this has anything to do with that.

thoughts?