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Old Dec 18, 2011 | 04:17 PM
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First Build Thread

This summer I bought my first fc, an 86 Gxl, which didn't go so well. It ended up blowing up on the way home from buying it. So I sold it to a friend and we're currently working on our first engine swap. We have it running just not quite driveable... yet. After that I picked up my 2nd Talon Tsi AWD and 3rd Ford Probe for a little bit and working on my old fc with my friend made me want to get another fc. So last weekend I sold the Probe and picked up my 2nd Fc, an 87 Gtu, pretty much stock except for the 17 Inch ADR rims, aftermarket radiator and a TII lsd. I was bored yesterday and today so I decided to take a couple of pictures of what I have done to it so far. I plan to upgrade the suspension this winter and auto cross it this spring/summer.

What it looked like when I got it.

First Build Thread-25228_1293117041070_1024595903_30662736_8315338_n.jpg
First Build Thread-25748_1304861534675_1024595903_30689695_1663327_n.jpg

I've only had it for a week so I haven't done a whole lot to it.

Decided to paint the trim Black. Ran out of paint and tape so I could only do the sides for now.

First Build Thread-drivetrim.jpg
First Build Thread-passtrim.jpg

Rims.

First Build Thread-rims.jpg

Aftermarket radiator, doesn't have an overflow reservoir so I made a temporary one for now out of a Root Beer bottle.
Attached Thumbnails First Build Thread-radiator.jpg  
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Old Dec 18, 2011 | 04:31 PM
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Also I forgot to mention that it has an aftermarket clutch, not sure what kind it is but it's really nice.

Put clear inserts in, I think it looks better with them in.

First Build Thread-inserts.jpg

Engine bay when I got it... Very dusty.

First Build Thread-firstengbay.jpg

Cleaned it up and threw in a Megan Racing Strut Brace in the front, I plan on getting one for the rear soon.

First Build Thread-2ndengbay.jpg
First Build Thread-meganracing.jpg

Plans: Finish painting the trim (front and back), lowering springs and kyb agx shocks, rear strut brace, front and rear sway bars, k&n filter, cat back exhaust or possibly a full racing beat exhaust, steering wheel and racing seat/ harness.
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 08:43 PM
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Sad Day

Yesterday my friend was driving my car and thought he could do a 2nd gear drift around a 90 degree corner in a neighbor hood going 30mph without using the e-brake. He's a dumbass I know. Anyways he smashed the front left tire into the curb, jumped it and slid 15-20 feet into some random guys yard. The entire suspension system on the left front is ruined, the shock it cracked in half at the bottom and bent in the middle, a tie rod bolt was sheared off and the worst of all... one of my $800 17in. ADR wheels is destroyed, it's bent in and cracked.

I only have one picture of it right now from when we lifted it up, I'll upload some more in the next couple days.

First Build Thread-sadday.jpg
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 08:45 PM
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Also when he hit the curb I think something on the starter got knocked loose since the car won't crank, haven't looked into it to far so far.
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 08:57 PM
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Thats why I dont let my dumbass friends drive my cars. I only have one friend I trust to drive my vehicles and that is mainly because we have gone out of state many times together to buy cars.

Hope you get it fixed. But who pays 800$ a wheel for ADRs? I got an entire set of ADR rims as my first ever set of aftermarket wheels for about 470$ brand new.
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 09:15 PM
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Yea he is 100% never driving any of my cars again. And I didn't buy the rims they came with the car, but here's where I have found the prices

http://www.nfcperformance.com/adr-ms...3_511_563.html
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 09:53 PM
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How tweeked is the control arm, control arm mounts, and front subframe?

Also...the ebrake is unnecessary to drift. Mazda ebrakes never locked hard enough without really good pads to even bother using.
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 10:20 PM
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It's all fucked, the front subframe seems fine though, a friend is swapping all the parts from a parts car.
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 10:44 PM
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Haha I see you had 2 talons. I've been through a plethora of dsms.

I am currently rocking a 95 Eclipse that has been converted to 97-98 talon body. Got the original 7 bolt and 166k miles on it. Original 5-speed with no grinds. Original EEPROM ECU. I kinda felt bad taking off the orginal body panels, but the body was the only thing that was not straight on it. It was damaged pretty badly during april. Lots of hail damage and some major dents.

Been through a 4g63 swapped mirage, 4g63 swapped colt, 2 1gs, and 2 other 2gs. Plus I have parted, sold or traded around 10 dsms total. This currently rx-7 will eventually be 4g63 powered
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 11:12 PM
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Sweet! I loved my dsms, my first one tied my friends 04 mustang gt, it had a 16g turbo, eprom ecu, intake filter, python injection system, metal head gasket, built internals, 3.5" turbo back apexi exhaust, manual boost controller and was tuned at 14-16 lbs of boost. But one of the cylinders cracked or bent so I sold it and it ended up blowing up.
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Old Dec 22, 2011 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 86rx786
But one of the cylinders cracked or bent so I sold it and it ended up blowing up.
Do you mean one of the cylinders walls cracked or a piston cracked? The biggest failure I have seen on old 4g6x engine have been the cylinder heads.
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Old Dec 22, 2011 | 05:01 PM
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The cylinder walls are notorious for cracking on high RPM/boost set ups. Thats why my car is set low just 32psi and 8750 rev limiter for it. I have been debating putting my spare 4g in my 10ae, just havent been able to convince myself its ok to do.

Very nice looking car you have there.
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Old Dec 22, 2011 | 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Saten
The cylinder walls are notorious for cracking on high RPM/boost set ups. Thats why my car is set low just 32psi and 8750 rev limiter for it. I have been debating putting my spare 4g in my 10ae, just havent been able to convince myself its ok to do.

Very nice looking car you have there.
I did the RWD 4g6x swap in a starion already
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Old Dec 22, 2011 | 05:08 PM
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Yeah the only actual failures I've had with a 4g6x engine was one freakishly blew the head all to ****. The camshaft broke where the bolt holds the gear onto it. This was on a stock low miles 1g with no boost controller or anything. Just a 14b @11-12 psi. It was catastrophic. The head was junk, the pistons were junk, and 2 of the rods were junk. The dealership ended up replacing the engine for my dad.

And then of course over rev valve float.
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Old Dec 22, 2011 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Fc3s01
I did the RWD 4g6x swap in a starion already
I would not have minded doing that, but FCs seems to be a lot more plentiful, and nearly all the ones I find (starquest) allready have it done.
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Old Dec 22, 2011 | 05:12 PM
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The piston head cracked or bent.
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Old Dec 22, 2011 | 06:50 PM
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What kind of pistons were you running? The wisecos sucks.
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Old Dec 22, 2011 | 08:56 PM
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I'm don't remember what kind they were, Wiseco sounds right though. Cylinder no. 1 was bent or cracked and compression was getting through and it was pushing oil out of the dipstick.
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Old Dec 22, 2011 | 11:22 PM
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Wisecos have been know to crack because the valve reliefs cut to far into the ring lands. Though it really is only an issue if you running to lean for an extended period of time, or are getting knock. Plenty of people have used wisecos on street builds with no adverse affects.

Manley or JE is what I'd stick with, though mahle are definently better than wisecos.

I would actually run Evo X pistons before I would run wisecos. You don't have to flip them like you do for evo 8/9 pistons, and they are hyperruetetic (spelling?) instead of that partialy forged bs.
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 07:18 PM
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Wiseco got a very bad rap for peoples tuning issues. The ringland issue is not a real issue as long as you are taking care of the tune. They did have issues early on with too thin of a pin causing flex/cracking on the bottoms of the piston around the pin.

I know of quite a few guys making north of 700hp with "weak" wiseco's and having no issues. My back up motor has wiseco HD's in it, and i am sure the aluminum rods in it will fail long before the pistons give up.
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