The OMP lines are always full in normal operation. However, if you had them out and they drained, they can take awhile to fill up on first use. The OMP doesn't actually flow a lot of oil, especially at low RPM & load. I would premix for now and keep an eye on it to see if they fill up.

Old OMP lines also turn yellow/brown over time. This makes it tough to see whether they are full or not.

The idle problem could be a few things. A vacuum leak could do it, stuck BAC valve, maladjusted TPS. I would normally suspect the TPS except that you just replaced and adjusted it. You can clean the BAC valve with carb cleaner, and then once it's dry apply 12V to the terminals quickly to see if it clicks.

yeah, any time i've replaced or had empty OMP lines it takes a bit of driving to actually get the oil to fill the lines. Premix a little heavier until you notice the lines fill and you should be good.

Thanks! There’s still a few things I need to sort out but overall it’s coming together pretty nice.

Small update: New strut tops are on, replaced the shocks as well. Currently Im in the middle of doing the top but the last time it was redone (2004 by the sticker on it) someone forgot the steel strip around the base. These seem to be unobtainum or all held by FB marketplace sellers who move at the pace of a snail. The car runs great though, besides a little bit of old gas. I was able to sort out the idling problem and the electrical load, just a misadjusted TPS and a loose battery clamp.

The metal strip at the base of the top does not age well. Mine was rusted around the edges and barely usable. The installer managed to get it to work. If I had more time and money, I should have had mine copied and fabricated.

Apparently A convertible inspects fine in PA without a top, and it drives fine too. I've started to put the first real miles on It since its all legal, ive put around 80 miles on it mostly driving around hunting down some issues and running here and there. So far Ive only been places I don't have to leave it too long top down, if someone was going to break in they would probably slice the top anyway but it doesn't feel smart to leave it too long.

On a more interesting note, my Uncle helped me do some buffing on it and needless to say im impressed
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e2ef1940d9.jpg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d7de5f0bd9.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ceb2ff6ac3.jpg
It turned out much better than I expected, it has had some questionable paint and bodywork done but that's a later problem because shiny=nice:D

It is having a few idle issues;

1: when started cold it pulses between 1500-2000 with a steady rhythm until it decides not to or I touch the throttle and it falls to 750ish and dies (because its its cold). I believe this is a symptom of the thermowax and water thermovalve being bad because my double throttle diaphragm doesn't seem to work either.

2: idling with no load its high (1000-900) and if I pull up and let it sit in gear it can fall to like 300 and catch itself and rev back up some. I thought this was a BAC but im not sure as it seems to catch itself when I turn the lights on and when I click on the AC it idles up but only sometimes, I put a new connector on it and the valve tests fine so im not sure. My dashpot isn't working right either maybe that's doing something with the stoplight thing.

Finally my strip arrived
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f8b1047692.jpg
It seems to have been murdered :tank:
It bolts to the car with few issues though so hopefully I can move forward with the top install, I need to find one of the nut insert things that go into the body because one of the bolts broke off and I cannot get it out.

Thanks for reading!

The center console plate on this car had all the tangs broken off and someone had glued the switches in with a lot of glue so I decided it was time for a new one.

I decided to modify the 3D file originally posted by need-a-t2, you can find it here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5627934

I made the tangs detachable as well as the cup holder and used smaller switches to keep all the switches in the same spot, this obviously won’t work if you have headrest speakers but hopefully I’ll change it out later.


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c99940d5f.jpeg
I printed it in petg face down on masking tape and it got surprisingly close to the factory finish except more of a matte color.


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...cb202c7bf.jpeg
I tried painting a failed print but I ended up going with the finish off of the printer, the only problems with this method are that it leaves ridges between the strips of tape and sometimes it doesn’t come off, for now it’s surprisingly good though.


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...36df53708.jpeg
Here is how it looks installed and honestly if the switches were labeled(any ideas?) and you didn’t know about Rx-7s you might think it’s factory.


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b6680c0d7.jpeg
side note: I would actually recommend this Chinese automatic solder gun from eBay, has a replaceable element and works way better than I expected it was like $15 shipped.

Textured pei plate, no tape needed. Also you could mod in a flat spot in the print beneath the switched to put a decal.

If I ever get to this point on my car the plan is to put a wireless charger there as opposed to the cupholder.

You may have stopped me from buying a comically large roll of masking tape :).

Sometime I’m considering putting charge ports inside the glove box, had a thought about building a wireless charger in the glovebox lid like the new Chevy trucks have. How are you planning on fitting the phone in that space?

I'll move the mirror controls elsewhere. Maybe the radio are as I won't have one.

That makes sense

FYI, if anyone here wants a STEP file for the blank plate, I'm happy to make that happen. It'll be significantly easier to modify than an STL.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e319ac523.jpeg
Me and my dad installed the new outer canvas the rear last weekend, it wasn’t as hard as some make it out to be but it still was a headache. 8/10 difficulty if you read the guide in the aus rotary forum.


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7883942c0.jpeg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6495cc7bf.jpeg
I’m not sure if these are normal or I’m screwed wrinkles but they don’t look terrible:D

Anybody have an idea on how to get a gauge hood to stay on when your dash is falling apart? I had nuts glued in but the nuts came off and now it’s coming back out.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4a0dd5167.jpeg

besides a few hiccups it’s been running great, put on 381 miles so far and I’m excited to see what it actually does :)

So I found this, but no idea if it would help you. Someone should design a version that goes across all three spots.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2962107

Are those supposed to go where the threaded clips go? I have those and some of the pieces of plastic that go in the dash but I can’t seem to get them to stay glued together

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d1296f3db1.jpg
I think they are meant to replace the tabs on the main dash that break off?

I've had pretty good luck plastic welding new tabs on. I just buy some .125" thick ABS sheet and make some little tabs from it. I've had good luck with both the metal staples that you melt in place as well as just using a hot air welder with some ABS filler rod. Both ways the original plastic tends to crack before the weld joint.

Yeah the original plastic is damn near powder sometimes. If I was CAD savvy I'd design something, but I'm a derp.

Thanks guys, I’ll print those bottom tabs tonight and see if I can’t find some abs sheet somewhere. I wasn’t sure what plastic the dash was but it won’t take a zip tie as a filler rod nor other random plastic things I found around the shop.

You try the plastic epoxy? I have good luck with it drill a few tiny holes for it to flow into so it anchors

No I haven’t I’ve just been using jb quick so I can hold it together until it sets, it actually stuck to the plastic with a little scuff but didn’t stick to the nut.

I thought about bending a sheet of stovepipe and screwing it in on the sides, then welding the nuts to the top, but idk how I would get it to stick to the sides.

There isn’t much work time with this fast set product but it’s great for gluing to the plastic in the Mazda’s. Scuff what you want to attached to and then clean it with alcohol and fill send with this plastic weld.

Order extra mix tips and the proper applicator gun.

thats the good good. gonna be more wasted in the tip than he uses lol.

we used to get this stuff at a shop i worked at. it was 3m,black and used a special gun. it mix hot as hell but that shit was invulnerable after a minute or so.

EDIT. i found it. it was called Duramix. it was badass but $$$

edit 2; apparently its what you linked but the stuff i used was black and i remeber it mixed so hot it would burn you.