If you're going full on diy, saw off the end and weld a threaded bung on and use any old damper that threads in. Do you still want the s4 one?
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Originally Posted by Spider2k
(Post 12545097)
If you're going full on diy, saw off the end and weld a threaded bung on and use any old damper that threads in. Do you still want the s4 one?
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So you recommend I just weld that into the end of the rail?
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Originally Posted by Brrraaap
(Post 12545101)
So you recommend I just weld that into the end of the rail?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/32338589318...Bk9SR5LP2d6sYQ |
Weld that bung on, thread in the damper I linked and there ya go.
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Originally Posted by Spider2k
(Post 12545102)
I'm trying to link the bung and the damper but the formatting is acting up
https://www.ebay.com/itm/32338589318...Bk9SR5LP2d6sYQ |
Originally Posted by Spider2k
(Post 12545103)
Weld that bung on, thread in the damper I linked and there ya go.
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Check the first one again.
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If I copy and paste it works, if I click it goes to the bung, that's how it was working with my video links, idk why they all led to the same place.
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Awesome. Lot of progress going on.
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Today was a great day for the first real road test. First off I wanted to fix the 3 error codes.
1 for the short range tps -> ordered a used one 2 for the long range tps -> cut off the wires for the short range because it doesn't work and plugged the long range in 3: O2 sensor reading not doing what it should within 10 seconds or something like that -> one of the solenoids had a disconnected vacuum line that needed attached Now that the car is completely refurbished I added back the blower motor, the ecu cover, the seats, and the roof (its warm, but not that warm) I found a few interesting things putting it back together. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...cecbcdcee.jpeg There's 3 wires going into this thing 2 of which are pretty heavy, is this like a heater or something for when the engines cold? id imagine its some sort of relay but who knows. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...30f98e0cb.jpeg Here's whats inside the stock tps, like a slider that slides on 3 contacts (I thought I could add a spring back to it but I failed) aaaaand at first I thought it wasn't going to start. I need to look into that it cranks for a while, I think its TPS related, maybe me messing with the pedal. At first it was like it had a hesitation, it wouldn't run at 3500 just above or below, but that disappeared. But, the car drives perfectly. Except for the temp climbing to 201 and it eating 2 quarts of water at a pit stop. Overall some kinks to work out but its SUPER COOL AND DRIVES REALLY NICELY. Limiting it ti 4000 rpm to break in requires more self control than I normally possess but I was able to do it somehow. So I definitely need a new rad and then I can take it on a longer trip, also my speedo doesn't work, so I need to resolve those 2 things before I take it on a longer trip but its running really good right now it even hot started at 210F so overall a really good day and Im really happy that it finally got out for a first drive, once again thank all you guys for your help. |
If you mean the thing next to the blower fan it's likely the resistor.
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Oh yeah that makes a lot of sense:)
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Congrats on getting it running. It's a great feeling!
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Originally Posted by need-a-t2
(Post 12545295)
Congrats on getting it running. It's a great feeling!
Does anyone know what the function is of the atf flowing through the rad? I’ve heard it’s for cooling which I assumed but I also heard it is to get the atf up to operating temp quicker. If I go with an aftermarket rad it won’t have the atf cooler built into it, will this result in it taking a while to get up to temp and shifting bad, or is this negligible. If it doesn’t need the heating how big of a cooler would I need? |
Originally Posted by Brrraaap
(Post 12545301)
It feels great, was starting to wonder if it was going to become a shop decoration :).
Does anyone know what the function is of the atf flowing through the rad? I’ve heard it’s for cooling which I assumed but I also heard it is to get the atf up to operating temp quicker. If I go with an aftermarket rad it won’t have the atf cooler built into it, will this result in it taking a while to get up to temp and shifting bad, or is this negligible. If it doesn’t need the heating how big of a cooler would I need? You'll probably have trouble finding much info on the AT around here because the power loss associated with them is a big discourager. My approach would be to run a small cooler and enjoy the car as is. If you really like the rotary/FC I'd recommend just buying a manual turbo model. |
Originally Posted by Molotovman
(Post 12545318)
If you really like the rotary/FC I'd recommend just buying a manual turbo model.
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Yeah, it's just a cooling loop for the ATF. I wouldn't recommend running without it though; it might be bad for the transmission.
It only takes the bottom part of the rad, and the coolant is usually around 195F anyways. So I think the truck cooler you mentioned will be more than adequate. |
Well I ended up taking it to a local shop to get fixed for like 50$, overall my engine bay should be cleaner, in the future If I get an aluminum rad I might delete the ps cooling lop and put 2 of These there, one for ps and one for ac. But I’ll probably hold the aluminum rad until the manual swap.
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That coolers should work for the trans. The car already has a PS cooling loop from the factory so unless it's leaking you shouldn't need to replace it.
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It's been a little while, the rust repair took quite a while, mostly because I procrastinate, don't enjoy it, and I can be a perfectionist sometimes.:) I fixed a lot of little issues and for the first time since I bought it, an interior or well most of one, pics coming later.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c46ab1c21.jpeg A little bit of WD-40 can make all your plastic brand new! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e2d9c93e1.jpeg Can I replace this rubber or do I need a whole new shock before it comes flying up through the hood? |
That rubber part is the upper strut mount, and it can be replaced. OEM is expensive but the KYB part is pretty similar. I would probably replace both as a set.
EDIT: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/kyb-front-strut-mounts-1156090/ |
Thanks! I ordered the KYB ones from rock auto
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Interior pics incoming
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...06ddaf9b6.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b00934149.jpeg in case you were wondering the steering wheel trim is way different between airbag and non airbag cars, I’ve got a 3d printed piece on there for now. Started it and changed the oil and I noticed a few things. 1 there’s no oil in the omp lines in the time it takes to idle up to 165 and 2 the engine doesn’t rev up when the headlights turn on it just stalls it does idle with the new tps though, it seems to have trouble figuring itself out on a cold start and doesn’t idle at first. I’ve got a few suspects on the headlight issue but do you guys think it’s normal for the omp lines not to fill up like that? |
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