Toyota 8 in FB
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,587
Likes: 46
From: https://t.me/pump_upp
Done!
I made a lot of progress over the last four days:
- Welded body-side Watts Link brackets to car
- Made / welded swaybar brackets to axle housing
- Replaced axle seals
- Painted and assembled rear axle assembly
- Installed rear axle assembly
- Adjusted suspension links
- Filled fluids
- Bled brakes
The install went smoothly. My biggest concern was brake system leaks (I introduced a lot of new joints), but I haven't experienced any so far.
During easy driving, the ride is no different than before -- which is good. My primary goal was a stronger rear axle; I didn't change springs or shocks. I'll begin pushing the car and tuning the handling tomorrow. I suspect I'll want to add the swaybar -- TBD
- Welded body-side Watts Link brackets to car
- Made / welded swaybar brackets to axle housing
- Replaced axle seals
- Painted and assembled rear axle assembly
- Installed rear axle assembly
- Adjusted suspension links
- Filled fluids
- Bled brakes
The install went smoothly. My biggest concern was brake system leaks (I introduced a lot of new joints), but I haven't experienced any so far.
During easy driving, the ride is no different than before -- which is good. My primary goal was a stronger rear axle; I didn't change springs or shocks. I'll begin pushing the car and tuning the handling tomorrow. I suspect I'll want to add the swaybar -- TBD
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,587
Likes: 46
From: https://t.me/pump_upp
The adjustability isn't really so intimidating.
I leave the upper link alone, since the fore-aft location of the upper axle mount has to remain in the same spot to clear the body structure.
I adjusted the two lateral links to center the axle housing -- shouldn't need to touch them again.
Lastly, I will adjust the two lower links:
- Both in or out changes pinion angle. I think I have it about right (same slope as trans).
- One in and the other out changes the rear axle thrust angle. I measured from the suspension attachment points to set the lengths, but a real alignment is the plan.
I leave the upper link alone, since the fore-aft location of the upper axle mount has to remain in the same spot to clear the body structure.
I adjusted the two lateral links to center the axle housing -- shouldn't need to touch them again.
Lastly, I will adjust the two lower links:
- Both in or out changes pinion angle. I think I have it about right (same slope as trans).
- One in and the other out changes the rear axle thrust angle. I measured from the suspension attachment points to set the lengths, but a real alignment is the plan.
AWESOME work... I have to go this route for my 74 Rx4 GTR. Thanks for the list of usable donor Toyota's. I'm going to pick one up for the future project... Considering your suspension set-up to replace the leafs...
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,587
Likes: 46
From: https://t.me/pump_upp
Impressions
After adding a 20mm rear swaybar, tuning the setup, and getting it just about right . . .
Ride and handling seem very similar to my previous setup with the OEM rear axle, heim joint LCAs, and G-Force Tri-Link UCA. The car is fairly neutral, transitioning gradually to power-on oversteer -- feels good. It's a subtle difference, but I think the rear feels more solid laterally.
The biggest difference is in the ability to put power down. With my race tires on, the new geometry now allows me to put down much more power without wheelspin. I used to spin all the way through 2nd gear; now I am fully hooked up all through 2nd gear.
I was able to lower the rear of the car about an inch. Previously the driveshaft would interfere with the tunnel-mounted UCA bracket. With the new setup, there's plenty of clearance.
All in all, the changes have done what I wanted them to do -- improve power handling and the ability to put power down -- without spending a fortune. I would definitely do it again.
Ride and handling seem very similar to my previous setup with the OEM rear axle, heim joint LCAs, and G-Force Tri-Link UCA. The car is fairly neutral, transitioning gradually to power-on oversteer -- feels good. It's a subtle difference, but I think the rear feels more solid laterally.
The biggest difference is in the ability to put power down. With my race tires on, the new geometry now allows me to put down much more power without wheelspin. I used to spin all the way through 2nd gear; now I am fully hooked up all through 2nd gear.
I was able to lower the rear of the car about an inch. Previously the driveshaft would interfere with the tunnel-mounted UCA bracket. With the new setup, there's plenty of clearance.
All in all, the changes have done what I wanted them to do -- improve power handling and the ability to put power down -- without spending a fortune. I would definitely do it again.
After adding a 20mm rear swaybar, tuning the setup, and getting it just about right . . .
Ride and handling seem very similar to my previous setup with the OEM rear axle, heim joint LCAs, and G-Force Tri-Link UCA. The car is fairly neutral, transitioning gradually to power-on oversteer -- feels good. It's a subtle difference, but I think the rear feels more solid laterally.
The biggest difference is in the ability to put power down. With my race tires on, the new geometry now allows me to put down much more power without wheelspin. I used to spin all the way through 2nd gear; now I am fully hooked up all through 2nd gear.
I was able to lower the rear of the car about an inch. Previously the driveshaft would interfere with the tunnel-mounted UCA bracket. With the new setup, there's plenty of clearance.
All in all, the changes have done what I wanted them to do -- improve power handling and the ability to put power down -- without spending a fortune. I would definitely do it again.
Ride and handling seem very similar to my previous setup with the OEM rear axle, heim joint LCAs, and G-Force Tri-Link UCA. The car is fairly neutral, transitioning gradually to power-on oversteer -- feels good. It's a subtle difference, but I think the rear feels more solid laterally.
The biggest difference is in the ability to put power down. With my race tires on, the new geometry now allows me to put down much more power without wheelspin. I used to spin all the way through 2nd gear; now I am fully hooked up all through 2nd gear.
I was able to lower the rear of the car about an inch. Previously the driveshaft would interfere with the tunnel-mounted UCA bracket. With the new setup, there's plenty of clearance.
All in all, the changes have done what I wanted them to do -- improve power handling and the ability to put power down -- without spending a fortune. I would definitely do it again.
^^ NICE!!! awesome work on the rear!
Now PLEASE build me one for my turbo FB
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,587
Likes: 46
From: https://t.me/pump_upp
But I'll help in any way I can.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,587
Likes: 46
From: https://t.me/pump_upp
Resons for maintaining the 4 lug pattern:
- My rear brake discs already had the pattern
- I already had 8 wheels with the pattern
- My front big brake setup also had the pattern
I'm thinking about adding fender flares and going with wider wheels. Depending on what's available, I might switch to the Miata pattern (4 X 100), since there are a lot more wheels available, at prices low enough that it would more than offset the cost of redrilling.
This is going to require more research . . .
- My rear brake discs already had the pattern
- I already had 8 wheels with the pattern
- My front big brake setup also had the pattern
I'm thinking about adding fender flares and going with wider wheels. Depending on what's available, I might switch to the Miata pattern (4 X 100), since there are a lot more wheels available, at prices low enough that it would more than offset the cost of redrilling.
This is going to require more research . . .
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,587
Likes: 46
From: https://t.me/pump_upp
Track Day
I took the car out to Grattan Raceway in MI last weekend and had a good day. I had a few issues at the front end that hampered my lap times, but the rear end performed well.
The first thing that happened was a front tire rubbing on the fender. I cranked in more negative camber and raised the corner, but I'm baffled as to why it happened, and I'm sure those adjustments didn't help the corner weights or overall balance of the car.
The second thing was an idler arm that decided to eat its bushings early in the day. My handling got very vague, especially on the straightaway, where cars get into triple digit speeds. It wasn't very confidence inspiring, so I stopped accelerating above 100.
The third thing was boiling fluid that required me to pump the brakes at many points around the track -- again, not very confidence inspiring.
The back end, however, did what it was supposed to do without issue. Compared to my previous setup, I was able to trail brake into corners without fear of the rear end snapping around. On off-camber high speed corners, I had mild oversteer at part throttle. I dropped the rear pressure 4 psi per side, and it improved. Now that I'm back at home, I'm going to the softer adjustment on the rear swaybar.
I'm pleased with the performance improvement, and looking forward to getting back on the track once I fix the front end issues.
The first thing that happened was a front tire rubbing on the fender. I cranked in more negative camber and raised the corner, but I'm baffled as to why it happened, and I'm sure those adjustments didn't help the corner weights or overall balance of the car.
The second thing was an idler arm that decided to eat its bushings early in the day. My handling got very vague, especially on the straightaway, where cars get into triple digit speeds. It wasn't very confidence inspiring, so I stopped accelerating above 100.
The third thing was boiling fluid that required me to pump the brakes at many points around the track -- again, not very confidence inspiring.
The back end, however, did what it was supposed to do without issue. Compared to my previous setup, I was able to trail brake into corners without fear of the rear end snapping around. On off-camber high speed corners, I had mild oversteer at part throttle. I dropped the rear pressure 4 psi per side, and it improved. Now that I'm back at home, I'm going to the softer adjustment on the rear swaybar.
I'm pleased with the performance improvement, and looking forward to getting back on the track once I fix the front end issues.
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,666
Likes: 88
From: San Jose, CA
Holy Necrobump! Dude, I just answered this on Facebook. Seriously, just go read my thread on the Toyota 8". Elwood (Winfield) covered this beautifully and is an incredible engineer. Follow in our footsteps and save yourself the hassle...
Realistically, if someone wants, I can build out diagrams and sell a weld-in kit for a badass Triangulated 4-Link setup to restomod these cars... Not doing some half-assed bolt-in job, but strategic geometry changes to fix all the OEM issues while reducing pinion angle change to nearly nothing.
Cheers,
-Ryan
Realistically, if someone wants, I can build out diagrams and sell a weld-in kit for a badass Triangulated 4-Link setup to restomod these cars... Not doing some half-assed bolt-in job, but strategic geometry changes to fix all the OEM issues while reducing pinion angle change to nearly nothing.
Cheers,
-Ryan
Holy Necrobump! Dude, I just answered this on Facebook. Seriously, just go read my thread on the Toyota 8". Elwood (Winfield) covered this beautifully and is an incredible engineer. Follow in our footsteps and save yourself the hassle...
Realistically, if someone wants, I can build out diagrams and sell a weld-in kit for a badass Triangulated 4-Link setup to restomod these cars... Not doing some half-assed bolt-in job, but strategic geometry changes to fix all the OEM issues while reducing pinion angle change to nearly nothing.
Cheers,
-Ryan
Realistically, if someone wants, I can build out diagrams and sell a weld-in kit for a badass Triangulated 4-Link setup to restomod these cars... Not doing some half-assed bolt-in job, but strategic geometry changes to fix all the OEM issues while reducing pinion angle change to nearly nothing.
Cheers,
-Ryan
Last edited by DWNUNDR; Feb 13, 2019 at 06:40 AM.
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