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rotor-motor 09-19-10 03:58 AM

Congrats man!! after reading through this entire thread, i am not surprised that u took 1st

captainbizzaro 09-19-10 04:29 AM

Well done for a well deserved 1st place, stunning car.:icon_tup:

j9fd3s 09-20-10 11:48 AM

it was really cool to see this car in person! i think its actually nicer than the pics

DivinDriver 09-20-10 02:34 PM

It was good getting to meet you, Mike... or should I say "Papa Peepers?"

So, you're saying I'm a lousy photographer? Hahahahah! (jk)

th3dorkscyd3 09-21-10 10:14 PM

Congrats you totally deserve it. Freaking amazing car.

DivinDriver 09-22-10 10:38 AM

Thank you, sir. I'm pretty thrilled - - I never really set out to build a "show" car. It just kind of got away from me, heh.

Next up; longevity and reliability maintenance. And I need to do something about making my rims easier to clean - - raw aluminum is near-impossible to keep looking good!

t_g_farrell 09-22-10 11:07 AM


Originally Posted by DivinDriver (Post 10229387)
... And I need to do something about making my rims easier to clean - - raw aluminum is near-impossible to keep looking good!

Look in my signature for the link. You need to paint dem waffles boy!

The wheel metallic grey I used is an exact match for what they came with new.

Nice job on the car, and congrats on the award.

j9fd3s 09-22-10 12:10 PM


Originally Posted by DivinDriver (Post 10229387)
Thank you, sir. I'm pretty thrilled - - I never really set out to build a "show" car. It just kind of got away from me, heh.

Next up; longevity and reliability maintenance. And I need to do something about making my rims easier to clean - - raw aluminum is near-impossible to keep looking good!

i know! i spent a week to make mine look decent... they are cool wheels though, like little campagnolo's

rotordave 05-08-11 09:59 PM


Originally Posted by DivinDriver (Post 8475517)
Days Thirty-Two through Thirty-Six

1) Used Super Black Silicone to rebond my hood's internal frame to the skin. Although not quite as solid-sounding as the hood on my 350Z (which is mostly aluminum anyway), the "trash-can" sound is gone for the first time since I've had the car, and the hood feels considerably more rigid, which should help with eliminating high-speed flutter at the corners some, once I can actually get it to high speed again.

This thread is a great read, well done.

Wanted to ask about how you used the silicon... My bonnet is rusted where the blobs of factory adhesive deteriorated and rusted - I've removed the rust as good as I can and now wondering what to do next... how did you prep the surface before using the silicone? And did you paint the body colour over the top of it? Did you silicone right the way around the frame to completely seal those areas? Some pics would be good :)

It will never be a show car like yours but I also like to do things properly :)

DivinDriver 05-09-11 12:10 AM

I never really set out to make a show car out of it, Dave; it just kind of turned out that way: it got out of control, once I had made a clean spot.

I had previously (several years back) re-painted my hood to body color, and at that time had sanded the few rusty spots where the old adhesive had been by wrapping a putty knife in sandpaper & working it back and forth in the gap, before I re-primed & painted.

I just siliconed right over the paint, going most of the way around the openings, working to inject it in between the two parts. Then I cleaned off excess to make a clean and thin fillet. It's not under a lot of stress, it's just there to prevent metal-to-metal vibration.

Since my body color is a dark silver-greay, I used translucent black silicone. Hard to even see it unless you look for it.

Only downside is that the silicone is a dirt magnet for weeks even after it has cured; keeping it clean was a pain for quite a while.

I will try to take some close snaps next time I have the camera handy.

Oats 05-09-11 03:00 AM

Amazing! If mine ends up looking half as good as yours, I'll be happy.

rotordave 05-09-11 07:24 AM

Thanks, I'd appreciate that. I've yet to see a perfect condition bonnet. The rust also got under the seam at the bottom where Mazda didn't bother to put seam sealer under the bonnet brackets. I've noticed that on many other parts of the car actually - Mazda put the seam sealer on after bolting the car together, missing many seam sections which then, predictably, rusted.

IAIS 05-22-11 01:19 AM

WOW....what a sweet ride. Dude, you paid close attention to detail on like everything. But now it's question time for young Skywalker.

First, you talked about the Mazda Carb Manual....I can't seem to find this. Is Barnes and Noble my best bet, or shall I lean on my buddy that works at Mazda North American Ops in Houston.

Second, my 1st gen sat idle for an undetermined amount of years and now has a disgusting thin 'pan of brownies' goo, settled on the bottom of the gas tank...any ideas? I've posted it:
https://www.rx7club.com/detailing-restoration-284/fuel-tank-problem-slug-955186/

Fourth, if Tyrone gets home at 5 o'clock in the morning, after robbing a health food store. If he can run 5 mpg, in front of a police car going 15 mph...how many years will he get in Attica? (thought it was better than the train that leaves Chicago problem).

DivinDriver 05-22-11 01:22 PM

First one: Sgt. Fox's excellent reference site has the Mazda carb rebuild manual, downloadable for free. http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rx7manual

Second one: the usual recommendation for treating that condition is to take the tank out, and find a radiator shop able to 'boil it out' for you. It can then be recoated inside with POR15. Numerous tutorial threads exist. I've been lucky in that I haven't had this problem yet.

Third one: the fish.

Fourth one: Tyrone will likely not be making it to Attica. But the , he wouldn't like the food, anyway.

rotarycrazy 05-22-11 02:42 PM

Nice to see your hard work is paying off.

DivinDriver 07-21-11 09:56 AM

Day 1107:
So, three years and a few days into this latest resurrection. Wow.

Current projects include an interior refresh that had me restoring my center-console trim; New leather shift and e-brake boots from Redline, replacing the shift surround now that I'd moved my electric window switches to their proper position on the center arm rest, and restoring my stereo surround which had developed some stress cracks over the years. reinforced the back of the surround with carbon fiber inserts & epoxy, then sanded and repainted both surrounds. Looking sharp, there! Good pix to be posted next time the car's out in the sun.

I've also found a truly quality way to replace the plastic chrome trim unique to the 80 arm rests, which tend to lose their chrome with age. I have a write-up of that process on the back-burner.

The latest thing weighing on my mind is that I'm getting well and truly tired of cleaning rust stains off my wheels every time I wash the car, due to the factory chromed lug bolts having lost plating over time and wear, and now being vulnerable to rusting around the base of the bolt heads. Overall, their appearance is what you would expect after 31+ years and hundreds of thousands of road miles:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/IMG_0085.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/IMG_0084.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/IMG_0083.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/IMG_0082.jpg

I looked into replacing them, but the available parts from Black Dragon are 1) not the correct factory head shape, and 2) are not long enough for the factory cast wheels; they are the shorter length required for the rarely-seen stamped steel wheels.

Lug bolts are important, and it's important that they not have any oddball coatings on the load-bearing surfaces so that they torque properly, so I decided against the obvious work-around of cleaning them up and clear coating the rust-prone areas.

I'm looking into getting them professionally re-plated. Initial quote sight-unseen over the phone was $3.50 each, or $56 for the full set. I'll be getting an eyeballs-on appraisal today at lunch, and will update with the results.

I'm also going to try to get a quote from Mazda for new ones, but I haven't much hope in that regard.

RX-7 Chris 07-21-11 10:30 AM

The lug bolts that black dragon sells are for the FB wheels. A friend of mine had a really hard time finding lug bolts for the SA wheels.

t_g_farrell 07-21-11 10:48 AM


Originally Posted by DivinDriver (Post 10714029)
Day 1107:
I've also found a truly quality way to replace the plastic chrome trim unique to the 80 arm rests, which tend to lose their chrome with age. I have a write-up of that process on the back-burner.

I'm all ears on this one. I have the issue with the chrome trim around the base of
the shift boot surround.

On the lug nuts, I have some where the head will sometimes come off of the lug
nut. The chrome head is a pressed on piece over the lug body. Theres some
corrigation on the inside of the chrome heads that matches the tops of the nuts.
Its a press fit for sure. I just whack mine with a BFH when its does come off and that
fixes it pretty good so far.

j9fd3s 07-21-11 12:04 PM


Originally Posted by DivinDriver (Post 10714029)
Day 1107:
I'm also going to try to get a quote from Mazda for new ones, but I haven't much hope in that regard.

pretty sure they are available, but it might $56 each....

T_G is right they are 2 pieces, the head comes off, why i have no idea!

DivinDriver 07-21-11 02:16 PM

Confirmed available, at $17.40 each... looks like it's time to drive over to the chrome shop.

I'm guessing the two-part construction may have been to allow the caps to be chromed, and the load-bearing and/or threaded portions to not be. Or maybe that way the caps could be made of a less-expensive alloy that wouldn't require multiple layers of plating (some metals have to be copper and/or nickel-plated before you can chrome them). Or perhaps from something easier to form and polish than steel.

The actual 'bolt' portion doesn't look to have been chromed, but rather was zinc plated (galvanized) or given some other rust-inhibition. The neck and threads are definitely not nor have never been chromed; the white oxide that builds up on them sometimes makes me think of zinc galvanizing.

In which case, the plating shop may not be able to do anything; I'll need their input on whether or not chroming the threads would be undesirable, and if yes, if they can be masked during plating.

Will have to see what they say. Better rusty than wrecked, at $17+ each replacement cost. ($278 for a set!)

t_g_farrell 07-22-11 08:46 AM

Wow! Mazda still stocks these? I'm amazed.

7aull 07-23-11 03:22 AM

DD I went for an after-market set for the SA at about $2 ea (5 yrs ago). Standing up "OK" but a high quality re-chrome of the originals would be my 1st choice too. Unfortunately you will not know just how "high quality" they are till time passes, but look forward to hearing the results!

Likewise on the chromed plastic inserts on the door pulls!!! Can they chrome the plastic "end cap" on the pull as well??

Keep us in the loop.

cheers
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

DivinDriver 07-23-11 11:19 PM

Day 1109
I don't know why the pix above are suddenly not stacked... Hopefully a mod can fix for me, as this is WWWWWAY to wide to read!

I'm still on the fence on the lug bolt rechroming. As it was explained to me, very few shops can do small job, walk-in "hard chrome plating" any more - it's too expensive, and is usually reserved for the aerospace industry.

The Original bolt caps were hard chromed, and the shafts were chromated, according to the folks there. Hard chrome is much more durable, and thicker; it will continue to hold as the metal is deformed (as with an impact wrench) but evidently it's a much more difficult process using hexavalent chromium (toxic as hell), and it requires a great deal more thickness and much more polishing to look bright; the expense puts it out of the decorative chrome market.

This shop I'm talking with does what is known as "Decorative chrome plate," which is much less expensive but less durable; Uses trivalent chromium, is thinner, but smoothes out surface imperfections in the plating process, so a lot less polishing is needed. Most stuff you see on bikes, wheels, etc,. is D-chrome.

They have warned me that the bolts will plate fine, but if they're not handled with care (like turning loose an impact wrench on them) the chrome surface can be fractured, then they might peel with time and moisture exposure.

I'm still thinking about it; I would never use an impact wrench on lug bolts, and I'm the only one who works on my car.

My options are:

Re-polish and hand clear-coat the troublesome edges that rust; cheap but won't last long, who't look as good. Easy to re-do, though.
Re-chrome for a cost of about $70, they'll chrome them to just above the threads. Will look excellent, may last much longer, but eventually may need re-work.
Buy new bolts; high cost but as durable as the originals - I hope. Not realy in my price range, though.

In the meantime, I spent the day moving forward restoration of a set of louvers I bought off of Kencumn some months back. Huge amount of work to strip and re-paint these things (sanding off the old finish was murder, and paint stripper wouldn't touch it) but I think they're looking pretty tight so far:

Original condition; black coating was sand-pitted all the way through to aluminum:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/100_1021.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/100_1026.jpg

Starting to sand; this took about 20 minutes with a hand sander. Tough stuff!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/100_1333.jpg

Smooth enough to start painting
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/P7230001.jpg

First coat: etching primer to cope with the bare aluminum:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/P7230004.jpg

Wet-sanded:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/P7230005.jpg

Next coat: Sandable primer to get things nice and smooth:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/P7230008.jpg

Wet-sanded (again):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/P7230011.jpg

Color coat, courtesy of Duplicolor Trim Black; silky, dries in minutes:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/P7230014.jpg

The situation so far:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/P7230015.jpg

There's the tiniest bit of banding visible; I think maybe it was getting too hot outside at the end (low 90's) and the paint was drying too fast, not quite spreading out. So I'm going to give it another coat tomorrow AM while it's fairly cool out.

Both sides took three cans of primer (one etching, two sandable) and so far two and a half cans of trim black. Plus the hoold-down hardware.

I've always wanted a set of louvers; I sure hope I like how they look, as these have taken HOURS.

BeenJaminJames 07-24-11 12:02 PM

Props, I'm sure you will be happy with them--I've transferred mine from car to car to car--my 7 feels naked without them. Unfortunately you have given me the sudden urge to break out the sandpaper and spray gun....

7aull 07-25-11 03:38 AM

1st class as always DD. Normally not a louverfan but will look nice with the Toronado! Show it mounted!

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

t_g_farrell 07-25-11 07:33 AM

Louvers look nice.

Yeah that chrome won't hold up to an impact. I bought new chrome lug nuts for my
truck awhile back and after a couple of rotations using the impact to get them off
the lug nuts chrome is cracking off. Thats what I get for buying cheap bling at the
zone.

If I were you I would just reshine them and save up for brandy new ones from
Mazda since they still offer them.

DivinDriver 07-25-11 10:12 AM

T G, I thought it over across the weekend, and I'm gonna go for the re-chrome, partly because I'm interested to see how it comes out. If they look iffy, I'll start buying NOS ones for when they give up.

I could afford a set of new ones now; it's not a matter of saving up as much as it is revulsion at the idea of spending that much money for a fistful of bolts if I don't need to.

I paid less than that for the full set of tires on the car.

Heading to the chrome place at lunch today; When I go to pick them up (about a week, they said) I'm going to get a quote on re-chroming of original shift surround trim and armrest trim, too, for those who are interested.

Stu; I'll put up mounted pix once they are on, and the car's out in the sun. No wheels at the moment, and I still need to refurb the vinyl trim pieces for the louvers, and get some thin double-stick tape for the mounts.

RX-7 Chris 07-25-11 11:04 AM

Welcome to the louver club

DivinDriver 07-25-11 03:08 PM

Thanks, Chris.

Hey could you favor me with some close-ups of the fitment of yours; especially how they sit down on the glass at the sides and rear?

I'm thinking these may be a bit 'flatter" than they originally were, and may need some shape tweaking. I want to know how they SHOULD look!

RX-7 Chris 07-25-11 04:41 PM

Will do. I'll try and get some pics tonight and posted tomorrow.

RX-7 Chris 07-26-11 09:58 AM

PM'd you pics. If anyone elce wants them let me know.

DivinDriver 07-26-11 10:31 PM

Day 1112
Wrapped up a refurb of my center console, details of which can be found in a couple places:

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/has-anyone-ever-found-950456/ Which discusses proper touch-up paint for the 80 center surrounds.

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-general-discussion-207/original-1980-console-screws-what-color-962407/ Covers the 'proper' color for the visible Philips screws that retain the shifter surround.

Dropped the last lug bolt off at the chrome shop today (long story short, got there yesterday to discover only 15 in my little bag... one got left behind on the workbench, arg) and hada chance to discuss with the shop owner the possibilites of re-chroming the plastic trim ring and arm-rest inserts for the 80 interior.

He said it would be possible to re-chrome the shift surround trim ring, because it is fairly rigid and is mounted where it won't flex, but that doing so would be costly (around $150-$200) due to the many steps involved to chrome plastic using the lines his shop is set up for. Additionally, he said that the multiple layers of special primers and metals (two primers, three metals, with polishing between) would increase the dimensions of the part by as much as two or three hundredths of an inch in all directions.

The arm rest trim inserts he said were too flexible to be plated with the processes available to him. The chrome would just crack off.

He did say that if there was enough call to do short production runs, he knows a guy who could cast reproductions of the trim rings and arm rest inserts in brass or bronze, which is then really easy to polish and plate, and greatly durable besides. He said that 10 or more was usually the break-even point, and the total cost would likely still be seveal hundred dollars (depends on total quantity) but that they'd last virtually forever. And those damned fragile retaining pins, being replaced either with brass or threaded holes for screws, would never break again.

Might be something to consider a group buy approach for; I'll find out more when I go pick up my bolts next week.

I have another approach that worked well for the arm rest trim (have pix, need writing time) but I haven't experimented with it for surrounds yet. Got a couple ideas in that direction I want to try.

I discovered a rear axle seal leak just starting when I pulled my wheels; I ordered parts to go ahead and replace both seals and bearings from Rock Auto; got some decent prices on some closeouts, came to about 1/3 what the same parts cost from Mazdatrix and about 1/2 of Black Dragon. Name brand bearings, seals, collars, and a spare right-side brake cylinder (just in case) for $50, hard to beat.

next up; wheel cleaning and refurb as I wait for my parts, and also I need to sew up new carpet liners for my modified FB bins behind the seats. The old ones are seriously grotty. I'll shoot some pix on how to modify FB bins to fit an SA as I go.

RX-7 Chris 07-27-11 09:42 AM

For the chrome what about using something like Alclad? http://www.alclad2.com/

Or maybe something like this: http://www.spazstix.com/xcart/Mirror...Aerosol-Paint/

there is also this place: http://www.chrometechusa.com/

DivinDriver 07-27-11 10:05 AM

All worthy of research probably, Chris.

The Alclad paint looks like it might be an easy option, and not too much money to test out. I have a good modeling airbrush, so I may give it a go. Happily, I currently have a good-looking surround ring, & the rest of my interior chrome is looking good for now.

The Spazstix aerosol might work, though my past experience with other "chrome" rattle-can paints has been that they do not live up to their labeling... they clearly look spray-painted. Maybe the tech has improved.

Chrometech might be a good "proper" approach; they may use the proper process for chroming plastic, which the guy I'm working with said was called "chrome over electroless nickel" & is specifically intended for plastic, and for which he is not tolled up for - said it's a specialty, and not one he has pursued not tooled for.

t_g_farrell 07-27-11 12:16 PM

I tried one of the chrome paints I found in an autostore and it sucked. I did my
shifter trim surround and it just doesn't look like chrome at all plus it had issues
like extreme drying time and getting soft in the heat. Anyway, I'm looking to redo
it with something better. That chrometech site looks like the best bet.

RX-7 Chris 07-27-11 12:26 PM

there are a number of other places that will chrome plastic. Take a look in muscle car and classic car magazines. I usually see 3 or 4 different places advertised in the back.

DivinDriver 07-28-11 07:09 PM

Day 1114

The chrome place called; bolts are ready for pickup. I'll be getting them tomorrow at lunch. I wasn't expecting them until Monday earliest, so that's great. Pix of the results to follow.

Rear axle seals and bearings are on the way from Rock Auto, due Monday. If THEY show up early too, I'm gonna have a great weekend! Tracking says they're now in Ft Worth, so that's iffy, seeing as they left Houston yesterday and just got to Ft. Worth.

Time to go out and work on my rims; clean, polish, paint.

DivinDriver 07-29-11 07:25 PM

Day 1115

Oh... my... gawd... They're amazing...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/IMG_0096.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/IMG_0097.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/IMG_0099.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/IMG_0098.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/IMG_0100.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/IMG_0101.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...G_0100crop.jpg

Difficult to believe these are the same bolts.

:score:

I had these done by South Bay Chrome, in Santa Ana; having seen my results, I can highly recommend these folks for decorative chrome work, as I've gotten both great service and a lot of personal attention from them for this little project.

Weblink for those interested in them: http://southbaychrome.com/

Now, I need to clean the shafts and threads, and then coat the shafts (but not threads) with cold zinc to prevent further rust where the cad is gone.

I can't wait to see these on the car. Lot of work ahead this in the next couple days before that can happen, though.

I got 1.5 wheels cleaned/lip-buffed yesterday before the sun went down, so 2.5 left to clean before I can mask and paint. Plus I still have the axles seals to replace, and the bearings - but they have not shown up yet. Monday, FedEx says.

A couple other projects to try to wrap beforeMazFest too. Gonna be a busy couple weeks.

So, out to the garage I go!

Slandd 07-30-11 07:30 PM

man what a beautiful resurrection, recently picked up a '79 and will probably use this thread as a starting point and for future reference. Great read man and that new chrome finish looks awesome!

DivinDriver 07-30-11 10:28 PM

Day 1116
Well, that was a full day of scrubbing, sanding, even sometimes filing out curb rash, then masking, and painting. I thought my wheels were clean before, but they are CLEAN now.

Basic process was:
1) Wash with detergent.
2) Scrub out rear of wheel, getting rid of old tar, and paint/rust stuck on the contact area from years of pressing against the disk/drum.
3) Grey scrubbie pad rear to clean metal - rinse.
4) Green scubbie pad rear to smooth shine - rinse
5) Flip wheel over, wash wheel and tire with deter.gent & stiff brush.
6) Use SOS pad on raised white letters.
7) Fix any major dings, scratches, scuffs on rim, wsing anything from a mill bastard file to 600-grit wet sandpaper.
8) Green scrubbie pad rim and center polised area - rinse.
9) SOS pad all non-painted bright rim/center to beautiful glow - rinse.
10) Inspect and touch up.
11) Let dry - (repeat 1-11 on other three wheels).
12) Scrub all areas to be painted with isopropyl alcohol - make sure spotless.

At that point, it's ready for masking. Takes a while to mask carefully - one major secret is, when cutting tape along the mask line between the bright rim and the painted area, cut with the blade vertical and cut only on the down stroke, to the tape is cleaved between the blade and the wheel metal, like scissors.

Here's the first one prepped for paint: Made more complicated because I didn't demount the tires, and masking tape does NOT stick to tire rubber (or valve stems) worth a hoot. Holding the paper in place without wasting huge amounts of tape was a problem.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/P7300008.jpg

The solution was to get rid of the paper; masking tape sticks to trash bags better than just about anything else. So tie the wheel in a bag, cut a hole with scissors, and then mask the edge of the hole to the wheel. Much faster.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/P7300010.jpg

First one done; looking xlnt.

Three finished, with my 32-years-in-the-trunk no miles spare for comparison. You can just barely see that the new paint is a bit lighter than the original paint.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/P7300015.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/P7300014.jpg

As of tonight, all wheels are painted, I've re-done my center caps, the lug bolts have been cleaned and tomorrow I will rust-inhibit their shafts.

Next up is tearing down the rear brakes/axles, and also replacing the "carpet bags" and top carpet for my modified FB bins, as the old carpet is gross - dirty, oil-soaked, smelly. Eck. I'm going to document both processes, and hopefully will end up with a useful pattern for the carpet bags.

My hands are sore from scrubbing. Time for beer.

7aull 08-02-11 03:19 AM

Nice DD! Wish I could work up the nerve to re-do my Goldies like these :(
Hey - what did the lug bolt chroming bill come too?? I couldn't find that in your thread. Did you need to do any Pre-Prep before dropping them off? They are effing SIN-sational!

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

RX-7 Chris 08-02-11 09:14 AM

Those turned out great. Can't wait to see a pic of them on the car.

DivinDriver 08-02-11 09:52 AM


Originally Posted by 7aull (Post 10729502)
Nice DD! Wish I could work up the nerve to re-do my Goldies like these :(
Hey - what did the lug bolt chroming bill come too?? I couldn't find that in your thread. Did you need to do any Pre-Prep before dropping them off? They are effing SIN-sational!

Thanks, Stu. Cost me $4.50 per bolt, and the only prep I did was to wipe them down with brake cleaner so they wouldn't be too grotty. They do all required stripping and prep, including masking the shafts to protect the original chromate.

Total ticket was about $77 with tax. Not cheap, but much less than new stock bolts would have cost.

I also bought a brand new 6-pt socket, which I plan to spray internally with a very light coat of Plasti-Dip, to protect the finish. Or I may fab an aluminum liner out of thin shim stock.


Originally Posted by RX-7 Chris (Post 10729661)
Those turned out great. Can't wait to see a pic of them on the car.

Me either. I've got a few things left to do before the wheels can go back on; for example, my rear axles are currently in the hatch of my Z, on their way to get new bearings pressed.

Sarah7 08-02-11 10:09 AM

Dude Glen I just started reading your thread... I feel so lame! This is awesome.

Mr_Miles 08-02-11 12:29 PM


I've always wanted a set of louvers; I sure hope I like how they look, as these have taken HOURS.
I have that style of louvers - i love how the look on the car. I have the other style also (the wiperless design) and i find them aggravating to drive with because the support bar is in the middle of the window.

DivinDriver 08-02-11 11:32 PM

Day 1119

Got the new axle bearings pressed over lunchtime. Tomorrow I'll clean them up and carry on with installing the new seals and reassembling my rear brakes. The old bearings weren't in too bad a shape, but now I won't have to worry about them for a decade or so.

The storage bin bags are coming along; finished the pattern mockup for the left side:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/P8020001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/P8020002.jpg

...took it apart to convert to flat patterns with markups...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/P8020003.jpg

...And cut a "test" set from some cheap old cloth I had. I'll stitch these up to check fit, so I don't ruin the harder-to-work-with carpet I've got set aside.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/P8020004.jpg

Here's my freshly-made, rubber-lined, chrome-protective lug bolt socket. Craftsman 21mm six point, coated with a couple thousandths of red spray-on Plasti-Dip. Easier than trying to find a pre-made one, and if it ever gets messed up I can just re-spray it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/P8020005.jpg


Originally Posted by Sarah7 (Post 10729699)
Dude Glen I just started reading your thread... I feel so lame! This is awesome.

Nothing you should feel "lame" about, Sarah - - you've got a great start going on with your FC. It's all just "figure it out as you go" land.

7aull 08-04-11 03:00 AM

1) the bag mock ups: DD you are one sick puppy! This is amazing stuff. enjoying the Thread, look forward to results
2) FWIW, a ghetto way to protect the lug nuts: just use a ziplock bag :)

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

82transam 08-04-11 08:50 AM

Damn Glen, I haven't checked this thread in a long time, just spent like half an hour (maybe even more lol) reading through all of it and I'm very impressed with your attention to detail. Very nice work!

DivinDriver 08-06-11 04:31 PM


Originally Posted by 7aull (Post 10732645)
12) FWIW, a ghetto way to protect the lug nuts: just use a ziplock bag :)

Too true, Stu; the rubber spray worked great for about 6 bolts, then started tearing loose from the chromed socket. Ended up just peeling it right back out. The sandwich bag approach is actually a better, easier solution!


Originally Posted by 82transam (Post 10732782)
Damn Glen, I haven't checked this thread in a long time, just spent like half an hour (maybe even more lol) reading through all of it and I'm very impressed with your attention to detail. Very nice work!

Thank you, sir; we're heading for Ludicrous Long with the thread, I think.

Day 1123 (first part)

I finished the rear seals/bearings replacement, and refurbed the drum brakes (Yes, Stu, I took pictures - writeup to come).

Checked out the front brakes for the source of a "clunk" sound I've been hearing on engagement/reversing. Appears the result of the brake pads being just slightly short so that they move front/rear in the calipers, combined with all my brake grease having dried up. Regreasing eliminated much of it; new pads will be needed to fix completely, but it's just an annoyance at this point.

New rear swaybar end bushings and links (via Re-Speed) are in, and are much meatier than the old parts-store-specials I've had on forever.

Rolled the car out into the sunilight so I could get a washing in. One week to MazFest out here, so cleaning has to get started.

How the wheels and lug bolts turned out (pre-carwash):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/IMG_0110.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/IMG_0106.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/IMG_0107.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/IMG_0108.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...f/IMG_0109.jpg

In a word: outstanding.

Looking closely at the reflections in the bolts in that last shot, it's a good thing I'm not a Scotsman, or you'd all know me a whole lot better than any of us wanted.

Got a good washing in after covering the wheels with trashbags (they being already clean) and fired her up to climb the light grade back into the garage. Looking sweet, sounding sassy.

Next up today is louver fitment, and some small touchups on paint. Followed by completion of the bag project.

So far, so good.

t_g_farrell 08-06-11 09:39 PM

There's nothing finer than new looking waffles.

They look great. Those lug nuts look amazing.

Make sure you take a ton of pics at Mazfest and post up a thread in the
ono-tech section with em.


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