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Originally Posted by DivinDriver
(Post 11092543)
Fall-back plan for the future: A strategically-placed (& normally covered) slot in the firewall would allow a proper-shaped 'key' to pop the hood by reaching thru the vent slots in the air-plenum cover...
Good idea for the future. Considering my failure rate for this part is once in 33 years, I'll have to get right on that. :facepalm4: Jeff, I think you're right; I think the clip that holds the cable jacket either broke or popped loose. Then repeated attempts to use the release, or even vibration while driving, let the knob on the end just fall out of the slot. When I pulled the handle, I didn't even feel slight resistance - - it slid so easily I thought for sure the cable had broken inside the jacket. That clip's getting backed up with a wire tie or some other more robust clamp once I get this thing open. The irony is that, had I NOT been diligent about checking the bay that one last time before leaving work, I would quite likely have arrived at the smog shop with "one pop left." :wallbash: Let us know what you come up with, I'm curious as to a solution now. |
heck with his camera and lights could probably bend a metal hanger and just fish up and hook it
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wow, i think your car is turning british! i've looked at the hood latch with the thought of how to open the hood should the cable fail, and um the FC isn't too bad, but the SA is kind of a journey!
you are correct though the cable pulls the framus to the left, so you just need to give it a gentle nudge nudge to the left. |
Hooking and pulling would have to be done from the left (driver) side, and that's seriously crowded space over there; the vacuum switch, oil filter, clutch and brake masters, clutch slave, oil and water lines... all right in the way.
There's somewhat more room to maneuver on the right side, but that involves pushing rather than pulling the framus. Which of course is harder. So I need to make a fairly rigid left-handed froolap, maybe 18" tall, with a pair of 90-deg bends at the top end; one to go "left" about 6" (may make this adjustible) or so past the engine, then a short one that goes "aft" maybe an inch with a skinny little finger to push the framus... since it is of course partially blocked by the frame of the latch. Small keychain light and the camera (which is only about a 1/2" cube) on top of it so I can see what I'm poking. Cable down to the little monitor and power for the cam. Skinny enough to dodge the air and vacuum piping around the back of the intake. Pfft, I thought this was gonna be hard. :scratch: |
oh ok sounds easy peasy lol
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i went and looked at mine, and i think i'd go from the right side, i think i could do it without removing anything, but my exhaust isn't the TR.... the drivers side, even on peepers looks too crowded, plus the thing you push on is kind of over on the right
the spot you push on is very small, but the good news is that you don't need a ton of force or you could pull the trans, and it would be a straight shot :0 |
A slightly less extreme option than pulling the trans would be to unbolt the hood hinges from the body (access them from the radiator opening in the nose) You could then lift the front of the hood just enough to get in there to release it. Kinda a long shot, but another option for you....
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
(Post 11092750)
i went and looked at mine, and i think i'd go from the right side, i think i could do it without removing anything, but my exhaust isn't the TR.... the drivers side, even on peepers looks too crowded, plus the thing you push on is kind of over on the right
the spot you push on is very small, but the good news is that you don't need a ton of force or you could pull the trans, and it would be a straight shot :0 Here's the view from underneath: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...emoval/792.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...emoval/793.jpg
Originally Posted by 82transam
(Post 11092877)
A slightly less extreme option than pulling the trans would be to unbolt the hood hinges from the body (access them from the radiator opening in the nose) You could then lift the front of the hood just enough to get in there to release it. Kinda a long shot, but another option for you....
It's pretty much a straight shot back about 4 feet. Not much in the way, either, once past the rad... The air cleaner is ALMOST in the way, and the alt on the other side... but just maybe. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...emoval/771.jpg That may just be the first thing to try, tonight; sure-enough simple if I can get enough strong hands to hold stuff. When the latch does release, there'll be nothing to hold the hood in place, & it might be under a bit of stress from flex and from the rubber edge seal. Probably not a time to be soloing. have to pack all the edges with towels to prevent paint mungs. I grabbed one of these at lunchtime, for a $1.99 - - thought it or parts of it had potential in this situation: http://www.lhdspecialist.com/images/litter_grabber.JPG |
DD could you drop the TR from underneath??
would suspect may be easier then the tranny was sitting in my garage last night trying to eyeball it but my TR is in a cabinet ;) |
Originally Posted by 13x
(Post 11092954)
DD could you drop the TR from underneath??
would suspect may be easier then the tranny was sitting in my garage last night trying to eyeball it but my TR is in a cabinet ;) Dropping out the "air duct" downpipe (which means the rest of the exhaust, too) would work, it's just a lot of work. I'm averse. |
Guess what, troops?
The brilliant designers at Mazda decided to make sure the hood would never ever fly off the car if all four of the hinge bolts should happen to disconnect from the frame. They did this by ensuring the hinges will NOT come out of their frame sockets if the hood is attached and latched at the rear; the hinges are shaped such that they extend forward under a lip far enouh that even if the hood is slid all the way to the rear on the latch bar... they still will not lift out. Doesn't appear that I can get the bolts back into the hinges until I can raise the hood, either. So, now I got a stuck latch, AND disconnected hinges which will prevent me from opening the hood without help if I do get the latch undone. What clever little fellows. Too bad none of them thought, "Gee, what happens if the latch cable breaks?" |
Find a tall guy with long skinny arms. Have him reach up and grab it. I'm not tall and skinny but I managed under the GLC.
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....aaaaaand, I'm in: :rock:
The Mark I Left-Handed Froolap: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...emoval/807.jpg Business End: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...emoval/806.jpg My Vantage Point: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...emoval/802.jpg The route it took: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...emoval/805.jpg What it found: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...emoval/804.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...emoval/803.jpg Neither clip nor cable is broken... the cable simply is no longer attached. Which I'm having trouble figuring out how that happened. Quite possible I mis-attached it last time I had the latch off, which was a couple years back to fix one of the welded nuts it mounts to. It's been waiting all this time to bite me in the rear at the most opportune moment, apparently. Now, I need to go fix the cable, realign the hood, replace the grille, put the wheels back on, and set her on the ground... at which opint I'll be about where I was on Tuesday morning. Sadder but wiser. Anyone got a good clear pic of how their release cable routes, that they can share? Mine got a bit pulled out of place when I was trying to pop the hood from the cabin. Oh, and now that I can look at it with the hood open... it appears that the release lever could be be reached, just barely, in a straight reach up the insdie of the exhaust pipe, aiming right through the left-side loop of the heater hoses. You'll never get an arm up there, but if you can see what you are doing, you could probably push it with a thin, stiff tool like a 24" screwdriver. Maybe. IF you can see. Good to know for the future. |
lol freakin DD with the one off rig and a view
applause you got it without creating damage |
No one will will ever accuse you of not going "all out" to solve a problem. That is quite a rig. Glad to see you got it done!
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wow, lol thats quite a rig! i was thinking maybe there is enough slack that you can just lift the right side of the hood, but no need!
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And no slack, either - - I had my hood dialled down tight, as it annoys me if it flutters at highway speed.
Before I take her down off the stands today. I'm going to set a light shining on the latch, close the hood, and take a look from underneath. I think there's a straight shot path that can be used with a long screwdriver to trip the hood even with the bulky SA exhaust and smog gear, after Jeff's post in the "today" thread. May be useful to know where it is in future. |
OK, just for the record:
WRONG: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...emoval/812.jpg RIGHT: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...emoval/814.jpg PROPER: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...emoval/815.jpg "Wrong" could (and did) work just fine for years, until one day... spung! Right when you really need it to open. :blush: Any questions? |
man the simple things that hault us sometimes
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It can make you crazy, if you dwell too long on all the thousands of things that have to go exactly right when doing a full refub. Any one can stop you in your tracks, either at startup or later down the road.
Sometimes amazing that things ever work at all. |
Yes, but think of all the useless information your stuffing away in the back of your brain.
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Smog Nazied yet???
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Originally Posted by 80's old school
(Post 11098319)
Smog Nazied yet???
Because I'm paranoid. & because the only thing worse than having to waste money on these damn tests is having to do them multiple times. I'm a little concerned that my TR may not be getting adequte airflow in cooling mode; look at the interesting color my "500-degree" silver paint on the heat shield is turning: https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...emoval/805.jpg Wish there was some tech data about how hot the outside of a TR should ever get, but there's not. I've got an infrared thermometer coming that will tell me how hot it's getting, at least. If it's below 1000*. |
Originally Posted by DivinDriver
(Post 11098454)
Wish there was some tech data about how hot the outside of a TR should ever get, but there's not. I've got an infrared thermometer coming that will tell me how hot it's getting, at least. If it's below 1000*.
of course that's INSIDE, so what the outside temp is, is hard to say... |
You worry too much DD, you lack confidence. Grow some balls and say fuck it as filipinos would do (particulary me) lol
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