When it comes to electrics, I'm lost. My background is aircraft hydraulics, so I never needed to use a multimeter. What setting do I use to check the coils? I know it's one of the ohms settings, but which one?






And I got a dremel wire wheel to clean these up.

 

ohms on 200 scale...

 

While cleaning up the posts, I suddenly had a drop of oil drip into my hand. It's the weirdest thing too. While they were mounted horizontally in the car, no signs of oil leakage. While vertical in my hands, oil weeps out. Looks like its time for new coils anyway.

All I can say is that once I get it running, it should be running amazingly with a rebuilt carb, new plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, ignition coils, fuel filter and air filter.

 

Going off the assumption that I can run off of just the leading plugs and coil, I olmed out the non leaking one, and depending how I hold the meter probes, I get readings from 1.7 to 20.3. It's an accel 8140 that says should be 1.4. Is that 1.7 really that bad?

 

1.2-3.0 ohms = Good
less than 1.2 ohms = Burnt Igniter
greater than 3.0 ohms = Bad coil/ Poor performance


If it reads greater than 3 ohms try cleaning the posts and see what you get...

 

I'll try running just a leading coil. Is the leading coil the forward most? Or aft most? I keep finding different answers.

 

These just came in, so I'll be installing them in a few hours and posting an update on whether or not it drives, and if I find anything else that needs to be fixed before it's a driver.

 

Took a wire brush to all of the connectors and got everything installed. Went to crank the engine and no luck. Pulled a plug to check spark, and as I was cranking it, I shocked the hell out of myself and unflooded the engine. Besides coating the engine bay in fuel, the car acted like it wanted to run on the one rotor. Installed the L1 spark plug and tried to fire it back up, unfortunately the battery was dead. Hooked up the trickle charger and tried again once it was full, and the engine keeps wanting to start, but never does. Here is my question. Which ignitor is the leading ignitor? While cleaning up the posts and connectors, I noticed a blue connector on the trailing coil, and a white connector on the leading coil. And then a blue connector on the ignitor on the front of the distributor, and a white connector on the right side of the dizzy.

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gk7n3zwvu0o1gbc/Photo0299.jpg
When you remove the rotor cap and expose the rotor, This is where I found rust that made mine not function...
This is a pic AFTER I cleaned the rust... Can't find my rusty photo.

 

I will give that a try tomorrow.

 

have YOU done a compression test?

 

Haha, yes I have. I was getting 90-110 on all three faces for both rotors.

Messed with the dizzy the other day, pulled plugs again, and noticed that my trailing were black and fouled while my leading were clean but with cracked porcelain. Also, my battery is dead to the point where I only get about 3-5 seconds of crank time. I've ordered new plugs, and this weekend a rotor head I work with might come over to help me swap the good battery out of my P5, install new plugs, and hopefully get it running and timed properly.

 

My OLD cap had the same condition. Someone suggested that the bracket for the the alternator was forcing a mis-seating because new alternator belts were slightly longer than stock. Check for clearance.

I had no problem with my new cap (but I see yours IS new). Perhaps there are actually 2 slightly different caps you can get? I tried to make certain that I got a cap with brass contacts (if I remember correctly).

 

For anyone following this, I finally got a chance with all the holiday madness happening, to install a new set of spark plugs after re stabbing the dizzy. With the new plugs in, it started right up on the first crank! The idle was high, around 3k on initial, but settled off down to about 1500 rpm. I needle to adjust my idle air needles to about 2 1/2 turns out, from 1 1/4, as recommended by my rotor head friend for our altitude.

She is blowing lots of smoke and I have an exhaust leak filling the cabin with white smoke, coming up through the shift boot, but that doesn't matter, cause she's running and idleing!

Will try and get a video up soon.

 

YAHOOO!!!!!!!!!
Glad to hear it!

 

Photobucket finally decided to quit acting up, so here is a video of her running.

http://s1281.photobucket.com/user/Je...0a3ye.mp4.html

 

What's the longest distance you've had her go?

I stated my plug conditions wrong in the wdydfyfdt thread. I had the same condition you did with Leading flooding and trailing dry.

Getting my carb mix leaned out made all the difference. I think something loosened up in the carb, As I used to lean it out, then it wouldn't start. Ran great lean after I warmed up and adjusted to taste, but it IS important to start the next day. Now it's willing to start at the lean setting. Really what I did was push it a bit to run at higher rpms by overriding the auto tranny with manual gear shifts.

Everything I've learned here tells me that your high rpm idle is indicative of vacuum leak(s).

Nice to see it start! and run steadily, if not smoothly.

 

The high idle was due to the cold. I drove it the other day and the idle was just over 800. I still need to adjust the idle mixture screws. But right now it's not top priority between work and family.

 

Converted my automatic choke on my Holley 4160 to a manual choke. Didn't realize till I was done that I hooked it up backwards. With the **** all the way in, the carb is full choked. With the **** pulled out, the choke plate is full open, for normal warm operation. Oops.

 

Been slacking on working on the car due to moving and work trips, but I've accomplished some. Two days ago I replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders. Still need to bleed them, but that will be easy.

Yesterday my wheels arrived. STR 515, 15x8 +20 offset, $358 for the whole set shipped. They only weigh 16lbs a piece.



They will be getting wrapped in Kumho Ecsta AST in 205/50/15. I picked up the set for $312 shipped.

The other day I got bored and decided to add up everything I have bought and see exactly how much I have in the car. As of right now, total cost for the car, including all fluids except for fuel, I have spent $1,819.

 

Had a little bit of free time, so tried to figure out my "steamy exhaust" and disappearing coolant. I think this explains at least one of them.