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hope u will be posting pix of the process. what's the plan? making it light as possible and keeping it stock?
I'm going lightweight. I have the inside stripped, sanded and painted. Also have taken most of the accent pieces off and I will be painting then another color. I will post pictures once the site let's me.
For a old car, this has barely any rust and is in great shape. Was 100% complete (Not anymoreeee)
Next is going to be a battery relocation and a killswitch.
That’s really cool, you don’t see a lot of first gen drift cars. I know of a couple but they definitely aren’t a super popular chassis for drifting. Have you thought about angle yet? I’m personally not into drifting but I have buddies who are and they say that angle makes a world of difference.
Yes Connorbmx;12321280
Angle is very helpful and I will be looking into my options. I might have to fab them myself but lets see if I can buy New shorter steering knuckles. Way safer that way. Is anyone else having trouble posting pictures? Yeah girl, you coming home with me.
So this is the first time, knock on wood, that it has let me post pictures so Im going to lay it on ya. So i will be spending the day taking out amps and wires to the fader in the middle and replace it with my killswitch. Fits like a glove. Wow
Im not getting any fuel to the carburetor.
I changed the fuel filter just because.
Next thing to do is put power directly to the fuel pump to see if it works.
The Fuel Pump is located externally. The is a plate covering it. Removing x3 10mm bolts and x1 nut, its free.
I put 12.5 volts on it and nothing. gave it a few bangs and I heard it kick on but it didn't seem to pump any fuel. I will go get a replacement today since it would be a great idea to get a fresh pump since it has been sitting .
Last edited by ZackFB; Dec 30, 2018 at 07:54 PM.
Reason: Clarifying
I have a carbon fiber switch ive been dieing to use on something and this will fix any flooding issues i may have. Of course the stock wire is ran to the relay under the dash for more safety.
Is it too late to return the Holley pump and replace it with a proper OEM Mazda pump? These are readily available new and are extremely reliable.
What condition are the tank and lines in? If the stock pump is dead there is probably a lot more wrong with the fuel system. Tank should be looked at. You can remove the sending unit (access via driver side wheel well after removing the plastic shield) to take a look inside the tank.
The stock Nikki needs very low fuel pressure and will flood very easily from improper aftermarket pumps being run with no return regulator.
Is it too late to return the Holley pump and replace it with a proper OEM Mazda pump? These are readily available new and are extremely reliable.
What condition are the tank and lines in? If the stock pump is dead there is probably a lot more wrong with the fuel system. Tank should be looked at. You can remove the sending unit (access via driver side wheel well after removing the plastic shield) to take a look inside the tank.
The stock Nikki needs very low fuel pressure and will flood very easily from improper aftermarket pumps being run with no return regulator.
I figure I am going to do it right so Im thinking I need to inspect the tank, sending unit and lines (might as well) if I see any rust in the inside of the tank, ill end up replacing tank and lines just to be sure its 100% .
FPR on the list don't worry, I just wanted room to grow because I don't think I will keep the carb, whether it be EFI or a better carb any suggestions? I read somewhere that the nikki takes 2.8 psi correct?
So I have never heard of a OMP. Do i need it. I understand the reason we have it but so why do we premix? I would like to atleast know if I have one or if its deleted, Since this is a used car.
Is it better to delete it and just premix? What do you guys do? I have heard Premix on top on a race day.
What's the purpose of running and power wire to the alt by-passing the cutoff? Won't the engine still run with the cutoff in the off position?
i wondered the same thing. It is so that I get better voltage from the alternator. I will find that thread i was looking at and get back with you
The last picture was cut off but the red fused wire goes to alt
Also in doing all this rewire, I find every problem I have with this ancient harness harnes. I have fixed 15+ exposed wires and this very important ground. No wonder I was loosing 9 amps when troubleshooting.
corroded and exposed. very poor design. I recommend changing this on every 12a.. This is the ground for the battery and aswell as the motor I believe. Easy fix since I am relocating my battery to the bins all I have to do is get a connector, cut off and clean up corrosion, get it down to bare metal with a lil Dielectric grease, bolt it back up. Should be good to go!
I figure I am going to do it right so Im thinking I need to inspect the tank, sending unit and lines (might as well) if I see any rust in the inside of the tank, ill end up replacing tank and lines just to be sure its 100% .
FPR on the list don't worry, I just wanted room to grow because I don't think I will keep the carb, whether it be EFI or a better carb any suggestions? I read somewhere that the nikki takes 2.8 psi correct?
The stock fuel pump paired with the stock Nikki will give you very little trouble.
Unless you plan on pulling the engine and porting and rebuilding it, the stock carb and fuel pump can support all the power the 12A will make.
I suggest the Nikki carb and stock fuel system unless you are planning an engine swap/rebuild.
That cutoff switch configuration is not a safety configuration. The engine will still run with the switch off after it is started. It will also not stop a battery drain when not in use.
The stock fuel pump paired with the stock Nikki will give you very little trouble.
Unless you plan on pulling the engine and porting and rebuilding it, the stock carb and fuel pump can support all the power the 12A will make.
I suggest the Nikki carb and stock fuel system unless you are planning an engine swap/rebuild.
sorry but little over 100hp doesn't cut it for me. I havnt made my mind up yet on the motor but this is Not going to be a street car. The only reason I havnt taken this motor out is because seals are good. This is all out of my pocket with no help at this point so bare with me. Nikki is too wimpy.
That cutoff switch configuration is not a safety configuration. The engine will still run with the switch off after it is started. It will also not stop a battery drain when not in use.
So your telling me you think this will run with my wire diagram? Please explain. If you see all my power is on this side of the switch so how would it have voltage?
