This new computer is a lot harder to use so I'll just upload the pictures at full rez and let the forum sort it out.

I love the colors that you chose for the engine, looks awesome. I Have That Same Oil Feed line, lol:icon_tup:

Yeah, everyone loves the Icy engine. :)

The orange pressure plate is a centerforce. The old paint was about 90% flaked off so I did a quick mask job and and hit it with about 1 1/2 coats of fresh orange engine paint. This p-plate+disc+flywheel combo had more than enough grip to hold under boost when it broke them loose for the first time in 3rd gear in the brown car back in December last year, so I figured it'll work here too. :) It was only 40 degrees F outside and everyone knows turbos make more power the colder it is. :D

Yeah, the oil feed line works pretty well. Kinugawa eBay special. No leaks.

Yeah, that's a third for the ebay special oil feed line here.


I do the same thing with the 12A exhaust gaskets.... Cut them in half rather than throw them away.


I have the stock turbo ii clutch/flywheel/pressure plate setup. So far so good.



And as a bit of a follow up. Ebay specials are good for delivering oil, but don't expect accurate fuel pressure measurements. 2.5#s on my ebay gauge is 0.0#s; 5#s reading on the gauge is 2.5. That fixed my lean issue, or it was the hella cleaning I did to the carb last night.

I'm glad I'm not the only one who uses ebay parts, lol. I don't think I would use one of there gauges, i got a used autometer fuel pressure gauge from there, don't know how it works yet. I'm glad you took care of your lean issue:icon_tup:

I got the mallory fpr for this car on eBay. Good used for like 50 bucks or something. It can go all the way down to 1psi. Seems to have a good diaphragm. :)

I had a few minutes today so I got the radiator hoses on and started working on the coolant hoses for the turbo. The lower short one was easy because it turns out I had the right curved hose for it. Don't know if it's S4 or S5 but it fits great. The upper long one will take some engineering because it has to go all the way around the intake manifold and over to the thermowax nipple on the waterpump.

Definitely love the engine! Icy is a great term to describe it! Its coming together nicely Jeff!

Nice looking work. So much plumbing for even the simplest turbo setup.

I've had the same or very similar CenterForce clutch on my 12A forever now and its does great.
A lot of folks poo-poo them because of the little weights flinging off etc. Never had that issue
and it seems to clamp and hold really well. Its been on the car for about 30K miles or so and
has seem some hard usage with no issues. Knock on wood.

This is what I did yesterday:

Finished the turbo coolant hoses. They turned out well.

Clearanced waterpump ribs because this cheap aftermarket impeller casting is cheap. The previous Atkins pulley was able to fit with only a little rubbing (it self clearanced) because they are further forward. The stock steel pulley required a couple mm of clearance. So I attacked it with a dremel. The paint will need to get touched up later.

Installed the alt but because it is an S5, it is pretty big. The modded FB bracket to fit an FC waterpump needed some clearancing. Also the steel insert where the big 14mm head (10mm) pivot bolt goes through the alt was pulled all the way forward so a stock spacer wouldn't work. I used a c-clamp to compress it back in. Then tightened the 14mm bolt until the insert met the stock spacer. Alt fits perfectly now.

Filled with coolant to check for leaks. None found.

Because the water temp sender was relocated to the back of the waterpump, I needed to elongate the wire. Same for the oil temp and pressure senders which were also relocated to better places.

Got a 60 degree Spectre chrome plated plastic elbow and 2" to 3" adaptor. Installed the Spectre filter and adaptor just like in the brown car. Fits perfectly. Even used a bungee cord to prevent tearing of the soft adaptor material (it happened in the brown car).

Threw a charge pipe together with a Blitz BOV just like the brown car.

Plumbed all the nipples and added a calibrated boost leak inline to the mallory from the carb hat. The hole is currently about .65mm; I can enlarge it if needed.

Installed the wideband in the RB downpipe and ran the harness through the firewall. Ran out of daylight so I called it a day.

Its really not. Oil in; oil out. pressure line to Mallory. Vac lines to distributer and BOV. and the biggy air from turbo to carb. Seems like a lot, but once you do it, it looks simple in retrospect.



Jeff, use a K&N filter strait off the turbo next time. The K&N is rated at 850cfms which should be plenty for a 13B and its super simple. Also, rechargeable :D

Which filter, and what pressure drop is that 850 CFM measured at? I picked a random 2.375" ID filter from K&N's site and they rate it at 110.9 CFM at 1.5" of water. Ideally I'd like to see at least double that for a setup like this. Unfortunately we're rather limited in space directly in front of the turbo due to the radiator positioning. The best we can do is to use a short elbow and just cram the biggest filter in there that will fit.

And the Spectre filters are rechargeable as well.

K&N RD-0500 Universal Rubber Filter, Universal Air Filters

Back of the box read 850 something, outside extreme dusty environments. SC isn't exactly desert so I figured I was safe ;)

Not interested in air filters. Also the dizzy does NOT get hooked up. Who told you to hook it up? It wasn't me. Probably why your setup has problems. Unless you have a genuine 12AT dizzy, which even if you did, its amount of boost retard would be so insignificant that it's not even necessary. The thing was designed for emissions and the stock EFI they had. I know my setup makes a lot more power so that's what's important to me. Let's not lose focus.

I got started on wiring. Turns out the owner hooked his electric fans to the coils! This pulls a lot more amps through the stock ignition switch than it was designed for. The wire gauge he used was also very thin. No wonder he complained about it running hot* and a lack of power from the Camden. His ignition was weak due to reduced/sagged voltage. He also used FC spark plugs which we know are harder to start when you have 1st gen ignition. So if harder to start, it was also making less power all over, thus another reason the Camden was gutless.

*he had a motorad (stant clone) thermostat that was rated for 170. Gee I wonder if this was at least partly responsible for the engine running hot. We all know stant should be avoided at all cost in these engines. Well, any engine I would assume. The quality is extremely poor and the little valve is so small it doesn't let much volume through. I had a stant one time that would get stuck as it opened. So it only opened like 20 to 30 percent. Scary stuff. So I tossed in an OEM brass one that I drilled the valve several times. I tested one of these in the 510 last month and it idled at 160 degrees F. Both cars had dual electric fans that don't flow through the oil cooler. I didn't install the fans... I just shake my head and move on. Hopefully this drilled OEM will easily outflow the crappy stant clone and idle at 160, but we'll see. Fresh rebuild, and all. They tend to run a little hotter. Good thing the weather has cooled down.

Speaking of which, I'm at a cross roads. I'm running out of time. The weather has turned bad. It's supposed to rain tomorrow and for the rest of the week. I have this one day, where it's not raining, to basically finish things up. I was wanting to see about upgrading to DLIDFIS but it turns out I should also redo his fan wires, add a relay, and add a thick power wire for the fuel pump, and add another relay. I don't have that kind of time. The car still needs to be test driven to make sure the whole point of it coming over here, to get a turbo swap, is going to work. I can't use up the the rest of the time dealing with wires.

I assumed the car was up to snuff. Turns out I was wrong. I had to fix SO many things so far. So maybe I'll stop here and just get it up and running. Stock ignition. Stock wiring to fuel pump. Maybe redo the fan wires. Thoughts?

I would do the minimum and just document the issues and let the owner know
what you found. I assume you are doing this for some fixed price. If he wants it
all fixed, ask for more monies. Sounds like he will be lucky not to blow the engine
after he gets it back anyway. You can't fix stoopid!

The owner informed me that it's all good. Whatever I can get accomplished is cool. He would prefer all the wiring to get corrected if possible (who wouldn't). If I have to keep it for another week, and feel up to the challenge, I'll go for it. Nothing like a job well done. But you're right. I can't be there to deal with any issues that come up after the car is deemed finished. At some point he will have to grab the baton, or how ever the saying goes, in a relay race.