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Huyler's Street & HPDE Build
Hi everyone, figured I would share this project with everyone here. I had posted some stuff on my car audio forums when I first got the car but realized people here might be interested in this project. It's nothing overly special that hasn't been done before. Mostly just bolt-ons but if you want to tag along for the journey, please subscribe. There was no real goal for this car when I started, just something to daily drive and maybe attend a few autocross and track events with. I grew bored driving my SUV back and forth to work and at the time my REPU was waiting for parts. That's when this beauty popped up on Craigslist with an asking price I couldn't ignore.
The odometer read 20,000 miles. I took it home, flushed all the fluids, and just started driving it any day that wasn't snowing...because that's what cars are for. It didn't take long for me to realize these cars are quite anemic in stock condition so keep reading to see what I changed. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...adc7b2858e.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...6f674e5e45.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...ab10985df2.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...11128afcac.jpg |
First things first, the stereo. I loved the factory head unit and I even had some cassettes from my high school days that I could toss in and listen to. The sound was grainy though, and the joystick fader was causing the speakers to cut in and out...and it seemed like every time I got in the car I would smack the joy stick and have to readjust it to the sweet spot.
To start, I grabbed some older DLS speakers I had sitting in a box from when I was really into car audio. These never made it into my current daily driver (a CX9) because the woofers were too small for the doors and the mids were too big for the dash. I did upgrade that stereo, just not with these components. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...8613749cfa.jpg I never like to cut factory wiring harnesses unless I absolutely have to, so here's a quick harness I made. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...ba9dbb57d8.jpg Quick and easy, and I had some solid 6.5" mids that would hopefully pump out a little more bass. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...87072d520a.jpg |
For the front, I had some domes capable of playing down to 400Hz.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...c8de6ab191.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...b9388edf60.jpg I quickly fabbed up some replacement panels so I wouldn't have to cut the originals. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...897bc484a0.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...c812420ac7.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...a4057e3c0b.jpg |
Cassettes are cool and everything, but I needed auxiliary input. To accomplish this, I studied the radio harnesses and bus system to figure out how the modular components worked together. The cassette deck actually cuts power to the tuner when you insert a deck. If I could do the same when I wanted to use my aux input, I could maintain use of the lights and EQ. I also wanted to use one of those cheap Amazon BlueTooth adapters which is powered by USB. I created this diagram to describe how I would cut power to the tuner and at the same time flip on a USB input along with the associated 1/8" input jack. I sourced the DIN connectors from an Amazon seller.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...4c0b7a1837.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...c5d00c67b0.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...362b92b7f1.jpg While I was at it, I also created a bypass cable for the toggle fader that converted to standard RCA connectors with a +12v turn on lead. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...ec83d3f468.jpg Here's the switch hidden inside the center console. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...18be95a473.jpg The only wire I had to cut on the factory harness, but it can be quickly put back together with the bullet connectors. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...a874dae557.jpg And the relay mounted behind the radio. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...73a2569733.jpg |
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After a few weeks, I realized the dome mids and low mounted tweeters just wasn't cutting it for a front stage. They couldn't play low enough and even with an active crossover to split the signal between front and rear I couldn't get things to sound the way I wanted. I decided to put a true 4" driver up front instead. I picked up a pair of Morel 402 components used. The woofers went into the factory locations and I sourced a set of rough a-pillar panels to cut up (I preserved my originals for safe keeping). At the same time, I also ditched the active crossover I was using to power the factory clarion amps and went with a NVX MVPA4 mini class D amp instead. The amp eliminated the graininess of the factory clarion amps and the components had a much warmer tone allowing me to run them down to about 150Hz at 12db/octave using the amp's built in crossover. Bass still isn't great coming from the unsealed woofers in the back, but using the factory EQ I was able to get fairly decent sound. A subwoofer would be nice, but I don't really want the weight and I'm sure it will lead me to chasing rattles.
Attachment 750124 http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2017...d08fc5f337.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2017...3d4761ebca.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2017...3feca3db6e.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2017...71944addb0.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2017...f68a213582.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2017...38bfcd6181.jpg https://images.sonicelectronix.com/i...main/mvpa4.jpg |
Very nice, I can appreciate a clean wiring job. What wheels are those?
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Then came the racing beat long primary exhaust. It was clear on track days that the car just had absolutely no power. This shaved more than 10 seconds off my lap times by itself.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2017...b2e5f883ac.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2017...98a78d77ca.jpg Out with the air pump http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2017...92a3fb025b.jpg Ditch the ACV http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2017...e5ecdaea50.jpg Old header coming out http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2017...48a17ea0f7.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2017...0ea890bfc5.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2017...da3918922a.jpg Block off plate http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2017...adf2172b90.jpg The entire stock system all in tact, stowed away for who knows what reason, but you never know, I might want to swap it back in in 10 years. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2017...3c12d71220.jpg And the new system in place http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2017...eee997f611.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2017...c425795a43.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2017...e1784a6351.jpg |
Originally Posted by Freeskier7791
(Post 12251776)
Very nice, I can appreciate a clean wiring job. What wheels are those?
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Wow Wow Wow!
Great to see a modern audiophile approach and super clean, tedious build. Love it. |
Originally Posted by SirLaughsALot
Wow Wow Wow!
Great to see a modern audiophile approach and super clean, tedious build. Love it. |
Although there is nothing wrong with my motor, I found a deal on a 12a on Craigslist and decided to have it rebuilt and ported for this car...keeping my low mile engine as a backup I guess.
My REPU is running again so what better way to put it to use than to pick up a motor! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...dcf89b26c5.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d2f55d5e37.jpg The same day I dropped it off with my engine builder to have him go through it. The car it came out of had 60k so it wasn't a bad starting point. Rotors and shaft were sent out for balancing, it's getting a full rebuild kit, and large street port on the secondaries and just some mild changes to the primaries and exhaust ports. Not a crazy build, but will be worth the effort. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8b5ce3de70.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5ab790383f.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...716d04d796.jpg It's also getting a light weight flywheel and counterweight. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5908e100fc.jpg I picked up a 45mm side draft intake manifold too. I can't decide whether to ditch the Nikki. I still want this to be a street friendly daily driver and thus I'm keeping things like power steering and A/C, and I want the choke so I can drive in cold weather too. But if I go EFI like my REPU, I can probably still achieve all that. Anyway, I got a deal on this, so I can decide later. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7dfefd8d59.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9521146478.jpg |
Sweet REPU, Good idea on getting the new motor rebuilt.
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Another quick evening project. I rebuilt the power steering pump using the seal kit from RockAuto.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f34cfcf270.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fd83ebcb00.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5372eb966f.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9a7a9621b8.jpg While I was reassembling, I noticed a few of the vanes on the rotor were sticky. When I flipped over the rotor I found some scoring and burrs that were snagging the vanes. I used some 400 grit sand paper to smooth out the surface and remove the burrs. Not sure if this will cause other problems, but I'll find out when I reinstall it. I didn't sand down the pump housing to match as the grooves were inset and I thought it might cause leaks if I messed with it. I'm sure if someone had access to a machine shop the housing could be quickly resurfaced. Anyway, this was the pump that came with the spare motor. I know the one on my motor has fewer miles so maybe I'll replace the seals on that one too and see what it looks like on the inside. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b97cbd0c41.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b58b918a24.jpg |
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I picked up a matching pair of Corbeau seats yesterday from a seller on Facebook. He said they came out of GSL-SE that he was cutting up to make into a drag car. I'm pretty sure they are the A4 model and have the Corbeau sliders and 1st gen specific mounting adapters. This was supposed to solve my headroom issue with a helmet on. It doesn't.
Attachment 737138 The seat sits close to an inch higher. There are some nuts between the sliders and bracket I could remove but that will only get back 1/4" of headroom lost. I have read some other forum threads where people have cut out the rear perches and mounted the rails to the floor. That may be the direction I have to go. I don't see any way to get the seat lower unless I went with side mounted seats, which wouldn't be ideal for driving on the street. It will be worth the effort though, the bolsters are much better and the fabric is super grippy. Obviously they don't match the burgundy interior but I think I can off set that by getting some other suede bits like a shift boot and armrest cover, then recovering the center portions of the door panels in suede as well. The pleated leather doesn't do anything for me and it has faded unevenly with the vinyl door anyway. |
I cut the rear perches off and it slightly increased my head room, you really need a seat that has minimal padding for your butt which is terrible for street driving. I am actually gonna take my front ones off as well and get rid of my sliders as well to get more head room since I just bought a cage too
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Do you have any photos of how you mounted the sliders? I've heard that people bend the tabs back, but it seems like the sliders will then bottom out before they've reached the furthest position. I feel like I may end up just cutting out the rear perches, then having someone bend some metal rails that provide a slight lift in the front, but mount flat to the floor in the rear. Then I'll drill holes to permanently mount the seat to the rails. That will gain me some room from removing the perches, plus about 1" for the sliders. Of course I won't be able to access the cubby behind the seat...but I had been giving thoughts to turning those into subwoofer pods anyway. I know, that doesn't fit the HPDE plan, but I like my tunes and I'd pick some lightweight subs and build the enclosure out of fiberglass.
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I bent the tabs flat, I don't think that it prevents me going to the furthest point, if it does it doesn't effect me as I run the seat closer
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I got the seats in today. I started by drilling out the spot welds and removing the rear perches. There was no way I was going to bend the Corbeau brackets so I just cut off the rear tabs. To mount them, I spaced them up a bit using a spare nut. It was tricky screwing down these bolts but I managed to get a wrench in there. The car is now perfect for me, but I still rub my head on the edge of the sunroof trim when I have my helmet on. I can slouch a little bit and make it work. On the passenger side, I didn't make any changes. Based on the photos I've seen it would be a lot harder to lower the seat. Not a problem for me so I'll deal with that later if I need to.
Overall, I do like the seats. The suede is very grippy and the bolsters hold me much better than the original leather seats. I can't wait to do some real driving with them! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...603b1807f0.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...24e4ad54dd.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7c64ae2767.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...cf99264a2e.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ceab98fe5b.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5b840586df.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7fd8d22752.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...58d2ea9b99.jpg |
This is excellent. I've been thinking about upgrading/modernizing the stereo without removing the factory head unit. Your solution is great and well-executed.
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Nice job on the seats, I think you would have to cut the front perches out as well to completely avoid hitting your head with a helmet unforunately. You could also get a steering wheel extension and recline the seat more too
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Actually, if I did anything, I'd raise the front of the seat so it would better support my legs. Some people are torso tall, others leg tall, I seem to be both. I already have an aftermarket wheel and extension. It looks like I could gain about 1/4" to 1/2" more vertical if I replaced the sliders with steel rails. I'd be giving up access to the cargo bins.
Other than that, I think the next step would be a fixed back side mount bucket. That's not gonna fly for daily use though. Attachment 737462 |
I removed the factory center clock and put a dual AFR gauge in. I will drop the header off at the shop to get bungs installed later this week. This is in preparation for when I go EFI. I just want to get a feel for the gauge readings in various conditions so I know what goals to set down the road. I probably won't keep it there, as the white lighting doesn't match the rest of the night driving ambience...unless I can some how tint the display to match.
The install was pretty straight forward. I had to cut out a center brace that was directly behind the clock, but once that was out of the way, the gauge plopped right in and looks like it belongs! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...16285035b5.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fb07d9e1f7.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8f467972d7.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b6384b8495.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4d6da9a905.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...42959e6519.jpg |
Gauge looks great!
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Got the heat-sink style O2 bungs welded onto the manifold today. Should have it installed and back running this evening.
Attachment 737571 |
Echoing previous comments, but bravo on the stereo! Very cool! I definitely will be contemplating trying something similar, but I have no knowledge/skill with where to even start. That stock head unit is too baller to get rid of!
Did you end up eliminating the joy stick? Everything else looks great as well! Aaaand that REPU is sick. Wow! |
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Yes, I eliminated the joy stick. It's definitely a weak point in the audio signal. The changes I made just require a steady hand with a soldering iron and some connectors from Amazon. Search for "din connector" and the total number of pins. If you can't find it, I have a bag of extras. From there, it's just analyzing the wiring diagrams in the FSM.
Today I got the car inspected and had some new rubber put on. These are way overkill for the current suspension setup but i don't care. I only drive it in nice weather and HPDE events. The local SCCA IT7 racers use this as their spec tire so I will be able to compare my times to what they are running...if I don't start beating their times with all the changes I'm making, then I know I need to work on my driving. Attachment 738009 Attachment 738010 |
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The new throttle body kit came in as well. I was hoping to swap the throttle lever to the other side but Jenvey doesn't recommend people doing it themselves, and it doesn't look like the lever is symmetrical, so I'm going to have to send it back. Anyway, here's the basic mock-up. Just picture it mounted to a wrap around side draft, with the rail on top and linkage below (I'll double check clearance this weekend). With the lever moved to the front I can connect the OMP linkage right to it.
Attachment 738014 Attachment 738012 Attachment 738015 |
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I'm still waiting for the new motor to be complete but I did make it out to my first HPDE event of the season at Palmer Motorsports Park. Unfortunately the track was wet so I couldn't compare my lap times directly to last year. Only change is the tires and new seats anyway. Personal best in the dry last year was 2:02 and i managed the following:
Session 1 - drizzling, no standing water - 2:13.86 Session 2 - damp, but racing line was dry - 2:04.87 Session 3 - pouring, standing water everywhere - 2:45.71 Although the Nitto NT01 tires handled damp conditions well and roll fine on the highway and back roads in the rain, the combination of built up rubber, running streams of water across the banked track, and the course pavement's overall refusal to drain was too much to overcome. I lost all steering nearly everywhere on the track and struggled to find grip even on the more straight portions of track. It was all understeer which I handled OK. There was only two close calls where I almost ran out of pavement. A Saturn Sky didn't fair as well. He did a few 360s down the front straight and bent a rim in the dirt, could have been much worse considering how little run-off this track has. During the driest session the Nittos still seemed to understeer more than my previous Yokohama S.Drives. I'll hold my final thoughts until I get a completely dry session though. I'd also add that I only have 1 degree of front camber and I think they really need about 3 degrees. Attachment 738960 Attachment 738959 Attachment 738959 |
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I picked up the new motor yesterday. I still need to pick up a few parts like water pump, pulleys, and a clutch so I can basically do a quick swap and keep the original motor in one piece. Anyway, some teaser photos of the porting done by Wankelworks. I stressed to Lui that the car still needed to be streetable so he went bigger than a typical street port, but not as big as a race port. I'm excited because the project is now back in my hands.
Attachment 739005 Attachment 739003 Attachment 739004 |
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A while back, I bought a tired looking Racing Beat strut tower brace. The seller had an engine fire and it left soot all over the gold paint that was on it. I knew gold wasn't the original color so I bought it anyway figuring I could just paint it. It sat in the corner of my garage for almost 2 years.
Today I decided I was going to paint it, so I started scuffing it up a little, when the paint flakes off. So I grab a wire brush wheel and try to get a little more off and it looked completely buffed out...wait a second, are these chrome? Some paint remover and an hour or so later, I had a chrome strut brace and pretty good condition. Only problem, I need longer bolts to mount it. So it will have to wait until another day. Attachment 739006 Attachment 739010 Attachment 739008 Attachment 739007 Attachment 739009 |
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Last week I got my first laps in at historic Limerock Park. I've driven the track in iRacing but it is totally insane IRL. After 3 sessions I worked down to a consistent 1:10 lap time. Afterward I talked to some of the drivers who race in the SCCA IT7 class and they run 1:05-1:09 with the class record being a 1:04. But still, my car has a full interior, A/C, and nearly stock suspension setup compared to what they run. I'm sure there is more time to find but my springs were too soft to really dive hard into turn 1 and that's the only place you have to brake.
Attachment 739035 Attachment 739036 Parts have been rolling in for the new motor and I've been painting stuff so it looks nice when it goes in. It'll sort of be a red/blue Racing Beat theme. Rather than cannibalize my current motor, I'm trying to source all new parts so I can just swap one out and one back in. Waiting on a Flywheel bolt kit from Racing Beat, a pulley kit from Australia, and some longer horns from Jenvey in U.K. I still don't know what to do about throttle linkage. I'd like to keep the cruise control and some sort of cold/hot start assist. I also plan to keep the OMP so I need a rod to link it to the other side of the throttle body. Attachment 739038 Attachment 739037 |
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Winter is here, so it's time to get to work swapping that motor in. This is the first time I've ever pulled a motor before...I'm a late bloomer. Anyway, kudos to me for not screwing it up. I'm actually amazed the car ran this long with such tired looking hoses and weeping seals. It looks messy, but ran strong. I'm going to set it aside for a future project.
Attachment 739462 Attachment 739461 |
Excited to see how the new engine pans out in the 7! Did you take any pictures of the engine after you were finished with it?
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The new motor or the old one? I'm still mocking things up on the new motor. The old one is pretty grimey. I guess I haven't been keeping up with this thread, so let me go back through some old photos...
At one point over the summer I had to address the power steering leaks. This is what the original low pressure hose looked like when I pulled it off. I sized up some steel braided line to replace it, but didn't get a photo. You'll see them in some up coming photos I'm sure. Attachment 739476 Back to the new motor...Exedy clutch and RB lightweight flywheel installed. Attachment 739477 Mocking up some parts. Yes, that the REPU in the background. That truck is at the shop right now getting a new transmission (long story) and dyno tune. Attachment 739478 Water pump housing all cleaned up Attachment 739479 Gilmer Drive pulley kit from Australia (not the cheap one you get on eBay). Attachment 739475 SE pedestal to delete the beehive along with a RB adapter so I can monitor oil temp with the ECU. It's got a spot for oil pressure too but for now I'm just going to stick with the stock oil pressure sensor. Attachment 739480 Mock up of the longer velocity stacks I picked up. Not sure if the fuel pressure regulator will stay there, I just tacked it on as an idea. I'll see if there is clearance when I get it in the car. Attachment 739481 |
love it.. very clean ride to start with... love it
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I dropped the motor off with a local friend that is starting his own machine shop. He's going to make me a custom bracket and some pulleys so I can keep the p/s with the gilmer kit. It may take a few weeks before I get it back because he only works in his basement shop nights and weekends.
In the meantime. I have been pulling parts off the engine bay and cleaning everything up. The paint is in good shape and I'd like to keep it original. However there is some rust preventative stuff that isn't coming off very easily. Attachment 739520 Attachment 739515 Attachment 739513 Attachment 739518 Attachment 739517 Attachment 739519 Attachment 739516 Another thing I'm trying to do is preserve the factory harness as much as possible. I don't know why, I'll likely never bring this car back to original spec. I guess it will just make future maintenance easier. With that said, I did have to clip a few wires because I don't want to pull the harness completely out of the car and some of the wires go all the way back to the fuse box or ignition and I won't be using them for my ignition system. |
Awesome thread!!
Great work, like how it has progressed. Similar story to my FB, minus the Fuel Injection. We both managed to find rust free FB's on the North. I am looking for a used intake like that to replace my Racing Beat sidedraft that I am running with a Dell 48. Can you take a measurement or a picture with a ruler to show how much room is between the intake manifold (lower carb bolt holes) and the highest point of the rotor housing? Thanks! |
I don't have the motor right now but I can get a measurement when it gets back. I think it's lower than the RB 2-piece manifold that you likely have. There isn't much space. I won't be hiding the IGN-1A coils underneath that's for sure.
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Cleaned up the charcoal canister and gave it a fresh coat of paint.
Attachment 739531 Center firewall before. Attachment 739532 Center firewall after. Attachment 739530 |
Great work.
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https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0dc5ca1784.jpg
Originally Posted by chuyler1
(Post 12313803)
I don't have the motor right now but I can get a measurement when it gets back. I think it's lower than the RB 2-piece manifold that you likely have. There isn't much space. I won't be hiding the IGN-1A coils underneath that's for sure.
The RB manifold is so low that even a very short air filter plate needs to be clearanced to avoid hitting the rotor housing. This vid shows a 12A with (I think) the same one piece manifold. Plenty of room with the ITG filter which I already bought and want to run on my car. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VW4brQOWT2g\ Currently running foam filter "socks". |
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Based on your photo and the proximity of the intake to your alternator, I'm guessing my intake as a little more clearance. I still don't have it back yet so I can't get you a measurement.
I've been spending an hour here, and hour there, cleaning various parts of the engine bay. I still have some hard crusty goo that won't come off with solvents. I tried some more aggressive goo remover in a small spot but it ruined the paint. I also tried a heat gun to warm it but that did nothing. Dry ice might work, but I think I'm just going to leave it and consider repainting the engine bay at some future point. Heater line finished with some high temp paint and reinstalled with a new hose. I thought about getting some parts re-plated but this will still be a "driver" and paint will hold up just fine. If it doesn't, it won't be too much work to pull them out and send off to plating next winter. Goal this winter is just running driving EFI street port. Attachment 739548 I'm keeping the charcoal canister and EVAP system. Attachment 739546 I outlined in another thread my plan for the purge valve but long story short, the original system used a port on the throttle body that only saw vacuum under light throttle. To mimic this with an aftermarket throttle body and ECU, I am going to use one of the rats nest solenoids and activate it above 1,500RPM. This should pop the valve open and allow the intake to pull air from the canister. Attachment 739549 New brake booster hose. I discovered a check valve in the original hose so I cut it open and dropped it into the new hose. Attachment 739550 Attachment 739547 Last night I got as far as removing the radiator supports and cleaning them up so I can give them a fresh coat of paint. Attachment 739545 Attachment 739551 |
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The radiator support is all cleaned up.
This section here where the paint had completely peeled off is what prompted me to give it a fresh coat of paint. Attachment 739562 Overflow tank is all cleaned up too, man was that filthy inside. I should have taken a photo before I started cleaning it. Attachment 739559 Before Attachment 739563 During, I cleaned off as much of the rust proofing as I could but there is still some hardened goo that won't come off unless I take the paint off too. I could use suggestions on products to try, otherwise next winter I'll plan to just strip and repaint the whole engine bay. Attachment 739561 After Attachment 739560 |
Huyler, I think I've been able to get that goo off with brake cleaner. Your car is looking sweet!
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Hmm, ok, I thought I tried brake cleaner but I'll give it another try.
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Brake cleaner takes a little bit of it off...but it also takes the paint off. I tried on a small section, won't be doing that again. Honestly, my finger nail seems to be the only thing that will get the hardened goo off. It's like 30 yr old dried tree sap. I've cleaned as much as I intend to...when everything else is back in place, I may take a second pass at places that are still visible.
At this point I'm waiting to get the motor back from my friend. But I've been poking around the garage with two projects buzzing around my head. The first is the throttle linkage. I really want to keep the cruise control. It operates on a separate cable that is vacuum actuated. I need to either canibalize the two spare Nikkis I have to create a similar linkage that eventually connects to my Jenvey throttle body, or I need to modify Jenvey's dual throttle cable kit to perform the same function. I also want it to look clean and tidy. The second is the wiring harness. I may have mentioned before my plan is to remove the emissions computer and replace it with an Adaptronic 440d. I'm going with direct fire as well. I think I can use the original harness connections between the passenger footwell and engine bay for the majority of the wires. All the connections for solenoids and carburetor electronics would be repurposed for injectors and sensors. There aren't enough wires for the coils so I'd need to make a supplementary harness on the driver's side which contains a relay for EFI (ECU, injectors, O2 sensor, etc), a relay for the electric fan, and possibly a relay for the fuel pump. This harness will pass power to the passenger footwell as well as cary signal wires for the coils back from the ECU. I think I'm going to throw together a graphic to explain it all. The goal is basic plug-and-play that I could pull from this car and put in another '84-85 car should the need ever arise. |
Try putting a smear of vaseline on the area with the goo and and let it sit undisturbed as long as you can. It will do no harm to the paint. I've done this on my own cars that i found something? had dripped and dried on finish when parked. Short of using a buffer with compound,nothing would touch it. The vaseline thing over about a 5 week period with periodic scrubbing the area with an old toothbrush to take off the softened top layer,then putting another dab on and letting it sit for few more days,then another rub with toothbrush and the vaseline again.
I think 3 times i did this and in the end it was gone, buffed in some glazing compound on that panel and then buffed in a coat of wax and the spots were as before. Only other option was to repaint,this worked,was very happy. Need patience. |
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