Austin's Red RestoMod - You Just Wait and See...
11 Attachment(s)
Austin's Red RestoMod - You Just Wait and See...
Hey again guys, I've been on the forum for just over 3 years and 3 months now, had 4 FB's before this one, one FC, TII swapped an FB, had many daily driven cars and a lot of fun with the rotary up to this point in my life. First one I ever owned I bought at 17 years old from my then-girlfriend(now fiance, soon to be wife)'s grandpa after he heard I was looking for a small car. From that point on I was hooked and I haven't lost the rotary bug since. They're my addiction and I'm fine admitting that even though most people don't understand it - but I know you guys understand what I'm talking about. Thanks for looking guys, I look forward to this build and all that it'll teach me! Austin Well that's enough about me, let's get on to the build at hand! The Red Recipient 1984 Mazda GS RX-7 12a Rotary Engine with 4 speed Automatic transmission option 04/84 Build Date with RH "Sunrise Red" Paint Code 70,815mi on the Odometer I'm the second long-term owner (title will show 3 owners) Original owner had it for 30 years according to the title, will be contacting him to verify that fact (and see if he has any leftover parts laying around :egrin:) Restomod definition: "You take an old car and modernize it with an updated engine, suspension, brakes, tires and electronics. And if you restomod the right way, you can revert back to stock at any time." - Jay Leno, Popular Mechanics Build Details/Ideas/Never-Ending-To-Do-List My plan is to restore the car to "better than original" condition by updating many parts and systems on the car including: Body: Repair all body damage on the car Replace all body panels that are beyond repair Door and window seals from Mazda Rear wing - IMSA 3 piece or something very similar Delete rubber side molding Custom LED side markers Sand and paint prep for respray Respray car in RH "Sunrise Red" FB paint code or NT/NU "Vintage Red" FD paint code Attachment 635755 Attachment 635756 Drivetrain: Different gas tank (spotted a repair in the current tank on the car) Full exhaust system from the header back, thinking long-primary style system Nikki rebuild A/C full recharge for those muggy days 12a refresh - whether that means rebuild, new gaskets, whatever it needs to be reliable Manual swap to 5 speed FB transmission Update/replace suspension parts like bushings, shocks, springs, etc. Attachment 635757 Attachment 635758 Attachment 635759 Interior: Full set of front floor mats and rear hatch mat from the guy here on 7Club in gray Stereo system upgrade to single-DIN deck and 4 new speakers Sound deadening mats on doors especially, rear hatch and maybe some other areas Reupholster top of door cards to look like factory but with marine-grade vinyl Custom triple gauge center console insert Relocate battery to rear bin behind passenger seat Tint windows to 50% or 35% Replace/fix all interior issues that I find Attachment 635760 Attachment 635761 Attachment 635762 Attachment 635763 Attachment 635764 How she sits tonight: Attachment 635765 |
4 Attachment(s)
Cleaned the outside of the car and I admit that it cleaned up rather nicely. Still many body blemishes that really bother me, but I'll be fixing those over the winter. Once she was mostly dry I pushed it into its new home that I cleaned out, it fit rather well. Pretty snug in there but better than sitting outside!
Attachment 635751 Attachment 635752 Attachment 635753 Attachment 635754 Worked on the car today and got a lot done in my opinion. The car still won't start, heck it won't even fire! 3 basic things to get a car to at least fire: Fuel - yes The fuel pump cutoff relay is now jumpered so the pump turns on when it's supposed to. Tested the flow and it appears to be working well enough to feed the Nikki. It's delivering and returning fuel so I'm not too terribly worried about fuel at the moment. (The ECU isn't sending power out to the B/Y wire in the fuel pump cutoff relay so I have to check out why that's happening, but the jumper is solving that problem for now). If anybody has any helpful ideas let me know. I'm thinking it has something to do with the Auto transmission, maybe a parking/neutral switch or something? http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7a7b72e1.png Air - yes The throttle cable works correctly and it's getting air to the rotors. Pretty simple. Spark - yes We checked spark and it's getting spark at each plug. Both trailing and leading coils are working, getting power and creating spark. My guess? Timing is way off. Previous owner said he replaced the plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor. I'm betting something got screwed up in the system there and caused the timing to go haywire. Ended up redoing the timing marks on the pulley because they were impossible to see with the corrosion. Got both the accessory and main pulleys off of the car to do this. Once off I used a triangle file and made new indentations for the timing marks and used paint marker to fill in the notches for easy visibility. Re-installed the pulleys and the belts at top dead center according to the timing marks and rear counterweight location (it's an Auto) and everything is lined up the way it should be. I did that so I can check the timing with a light once it's actually running. Last thing to do timing-wise is to re-stab the distributor just to make entirely sure that everything is lined up how I want it to be. |
Pretty clean. Do auto fb have different trans tunnels when comparing it to a manual fb?
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Originally Posted by Broke_A_Baller
(Post 11826604)
Pretty clean. Do auto fb have different trans tunnels when comparing it to a manual fb?
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Yeah the reason I asked was because I know the 2nd gens are, but I have never messed with a 1st gen. Only 2nd and 3rd :)
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Ooooohhh! This is gonna be another fantastic build thread like the Turbo II build! Can't wait to see this project as it goes along. I'm subscribed!
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Looks good brother!
We'll have to get together and hang out one day! |
Originally Posted by Broke_A_Baller
(Post 11826635)
Yeah the reason I asked was because I know the 2nd gens are, but I have never messed with a 1st gen. Only 2nd and 3rd :)
Originally Posted by woodmv
(Post 11826637)
Ooooohhh! This is gonna be another fantastic build thread like the Turbo II build! Can't wait to see this project as it goes along. I'm subscribed!
Originally Posted by Jager
(Post 11828044)
Looks good brother!
We'll have to get together and hang out one day! I've got a timing issue with this car right now that I'm clearing up in the "What Did You Do To Your FB Today?" thread in the 1st Gen Non-Technical forum section, will post the results on that endeavor once I get a response. Hopefully it's just timing that's stopping this car from running right now and not something more serious... |
Is your dizzy stabbed correctly? Do you know how to static time one of these engines? Maybe Siraniko will step in, but probably better to search. He covers the counterweight method a lot.
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B
(Post 11828733)
Is your dizzy stabbed correctly? Do you know how to static time one of these engines? Maybe Siraniko will step in, but probably better to search. He covers the counterweight method a lot.
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I'm sure the time was correct to begin with. The whole 180 degree out thing is fine too. This is because the dizzy spins at half speed (so it only moves 180 degrees for every 360 e-shaft rotation anyway).
One way to find TDC is to use a thick soft wire like a spark plug wire, cut the end off, poke the wire in the spark plug holes and feel the rotor face. The front rotor face should be right at the L1 spark plug hole. The L2 hole should be open. Now hand crank the engine backwards until the apex seal touches the wire in the L2 hole. Now crank forward a little and you've basically found TDC. Stab the dizzy and it should align correctly. I had to use this method once (actually this is where I came up with the idea) on a crappy S4 NA 6 port in a 79 SA once. Turns out the engine builder installed the dizzy drive gear upside down, so you can imagine it made for a tough time trying to find TDC on that engine. We never took off the front cover to correct it as the car had other problems so we decided to let it go to someone else. |
Looks like a nice start there, are you planning to stay 12a or go 13b?
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Go REW :).
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This looks like fun.
I'd like to request VR paint, black wheels, and sequential rew. So I can buy it in the future to match my fd! |
Lost the timing mark? The way I found mine: First I noticed there are 4 possibilities (four bolts) on the timing mark pulley. So I tried all four, and chose the best one. For simplicity and not to f u things up too much, only the leading front rotor's spark plug was connected. Then I rotated/stabbed the distributor and cap to the conventional correct position. Finally I connected the rest of the spark plugs and made the fine adjustments to the distributor.
Yes, this is kludgey. But the engine has survived +10 years. |
Did you see that alleged jdm s5 t2 motor on Craigslist for $1000?
Apparently guy had it in his fb? Should check it out |
Auto to 5 speed trans swap
Sorry I didn't take some photos, but we just swapped a 85 GSL, made a modified crossmember and it was not complicated. The car just went away to a new owner about a month ago, and he seems happy. The motor was built by Jeff20b, starts and runs perfectly.
I think you should consider doing a 3 rotor swap like I did in my current driver - I put in a motor that has a crankshaft and two camshafts, all rotating in the same direction - isn't that a 3 rotor? Details shown in the automotive section of my website, the red/silver car. |
Originally Posted by Jeff20B
(Post 11828742)
I'm sure the time was correct to begin with. The whole 180 degree out thing is fine too. This is because the dizzy spins at half speed (so it only moves 180 degrees for every 360 e-shaft rotation anyway).
One way to find TDC is to use a thick soft wire like a spark plug wire, cut the end off, poke the wire in the spark plug holes and feel the rotor face. The front rotor face should be right at the L1 spark plug hole. The L2 hole should be open. Now hand crank the engine backwards until the apex seal touches the wire in the L2 hole. Now crank forward a little and you've basically found TDC. Stab the dizzy and it should align correctly. I had to use this method once (actually this is where I came up with the idea) on a crappy S4 NA 6 port in a 79 SA once. Turns out the engine builder installed the dizzy drive gear upside down, so you can imagine it made for a tough time trying to find TDC on that engine. We never took off the front cover to correct it as the car had other problems so we decided to let it go to someone else.
Originally Posted by project7s
(Post 11829191)
Looks like a nice start there, are you planning to stay 12a or go 13b?
Originally Posted by Broke_A_Baller
(Post 11830701)
Go REW :).
Originally Posted by needspartsnow
(Post 11831117)
This looks like fun.
I'd like to request VR paint, black wheels, and sequential rew. So I can buy it in the future to match my fd! $10,000 build: $5,000 cash deposit -REW engine swap -Turbo-back full exhaust -REW wiring harness conversion -Custom front mount intercooler setup -TII transmission -TII lightweight flywheel with auto counterweight and performance clutch -Custom driveshaft -LSD/disc brake rear end conversion -Wheel bolt pattern swap -Different wheels and suspension upgrade all around -Respray VR paint code and clean up the body to mint-condition $5,000 cash on delivery Perfect sleeper car with a good exhaust on it :icon_tup:
Originally Posted by midnight mechanic
(Post 11831524)
Lost the timing mark? The way I found mine: First I noticed there are 4 possibilities (four bolts) on the timing mark pulley. So I tried all four, and chose the best one. For simplicity and not to f u things up too much, only the leading front rotor's spark plug was connected. Then I rotated/stabbed the distributor and cap to the conventional correct position. Finally I connected the rest of the spark plugs and made the fine adjustments to the distributor.
Yes, this is kludgey. But the engine has survived +10 years.
Originally Posted by Broke_A_Baller
(Post 11831555)
Did you see that alleged jdm s5 t2 motor on Craigslist for $1000?
Apparently guy had it in his fb? Should check it out
Originally Posted by stilettoman
(Post 11832000)
Sorry I didn't take some photos, but we just swapped a 85 GSL, made a modified crossmember and it was not complicated. The car just went away to a new owner about a month ago, and he seems happy. The motor was built by Jeff20b, starts and runs perfectly.
I think you should consider doing a 3 rotor swap like I did in my current driver - I put in a motor that has a crankshaft and two camshafts, all rotating in the same direction - isn't that a 3 rotor? Details shown in the automotive section of my website, the red/silver car. The R32 engine swap would be much more up my alley - a V8 is amazing in an FB but the RB20DET would be such a blast! V8 is much cheaper though I assume, and a local buddy has it done to his 7. I call it a cheap, better looking, better performing, less cost to insure and much more fun Corvette. I haven't really accomplished anything to this car lately guys. Taking 16 credits at a nationally ranked university for Mechanical Engineering, having a fiance, an active social life, trying to get good grades while maintaining enough sleep and working on a Formula SAE engine team really sucks the time away. Hopefully this winter break I'll get some time to spend with the old girl in the garage before everything really ramps up in spring semester. |
Just slide the wire in and out until you feel the apex seal touch it. Be careful.
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what's going on with this build!!!!???!!!???
Lol I'm finishing up my 15 credit law school semester and I'm still chugging away at what I call a build :p. Jkjk |
Originally Posted by Jeff20B
(Post 11832823)
Just slide the wire in and out until you feel the apex seal touch it. Be careful.
Originally Posted by Broke_A_Baller
(Post 11837517)
what's going on with this build!!!!???!!!???
Lol I'm finishing up my 15 credit law school semester and I'm still chugging away at what I call a build :p. Jkjk What I was alluding to earlier is that I believe I'm off with the ignition timing now. The points in the distributor look like they're not straight across from each other (not sure if that's possible or how it's supposed to be - I can't remember...or find my Hayne's manual for that matter, I really need to order another one). Why I think it's ignition timing versus engine timing: Jeff's method lined up the front pulley mark with the rear counterweight location and I could feel what I was supposed to through the leading spark plug holes The engine still won't fire, not even a hint with the throttle closed There's fuel getting to the engine and plugs are plenty wet enough At WOT it sounds like it fires - so I assume I'm one tooth off in the timing right now Found these snippets of information while searching on tuning a street port 12a...hint hint... Tuning 12a Streetport
Originally Posted by risingsunroof82
(Post 9207454)
I thought i missed the right tooth at one point also, then i turned it one tooth forward and one tooth back and both times it wouldn't even run.
Originally Posted by Jeff20B
(Post 9208315)
Somebody put the dizzy drive gear on backwards. I've ran across a few rebuilt engines with this mistake. The newer gears don't have an F mark but they do have a beveled edge. Easy to overlook.
What is the quick fix? I'm not sure as I've torn down all of them so far because they were in need of a rebuild anyway. Ah well, we will find out soon...motor will hopefully be pulled over break and a manual trans will get dropped into this car. Have all the parts, just gotta do a custom trans mount since it'll be from an auto to a manual. |
Something I've found that starts stubborn engines is 24 volts. It can be tricky to get it to the starter and solenoid only while not letting the rest of the car's electrical see it because it can easily blow fuses and fusible links.
You need a remote starter switch (the pistol grip style is what I use), jumper cables and two batteries. If you're smart you can even get away with the battery in the stock location and some creative wiring to a second battery and the starter. This allows 24V to the starter and the solenoid only, while keeping 12V going to the car's other electrical like at the fusible link hookup point so the distributor (ignitors) and the coils, fuel pump tach etc are powered so the engine will run. I did this last year on a stubborn rebuild that just wouldn't start. Once I hooked up the two batteries in series, it started in I think 6 seconds of cranking. It was extremely flooded and I had exhausted all my other ideas for three hours such as oil down the carb, wet plugs taken out and cleaned several times, new plugs swapped in still got wet, tried three different used Nikkis off the shelf, and pull or push starting was not an option. 24 volts was the only thing that worked. Not very easy to do properly, and the risk of destroying your car's electrical is very real, but in the end it worked out. Try at your own risk. Oh but obviously make sure it's not something simple like a dead ignitor first. |
Originally Posted by lindahlish
(Post 11838670)
Psh, I'm finishing my 16 credit engineering semester and barely have time to sleep - letalone work on the rotary! But it's all over in two weeks with finals so I'll have a nice long break to get some hours in to the car.
What I was alluding to earlier is that I believe I'm off with the ignition timing now. The points in the distributor look like they're not straight across from each other (not sure if that's possible or how it's supposed to be - I can't remember...or find my Hayne's manual for that matter, I really need to order another one). Why I think it's ignition timing versus engine timing: Jeff's method lined up the front pulley mark with the rear counterweight location and I could feel what I was supposed to through the leading spark plug holes The engine still won't fire, not even a hint with the throttle closed There's fuel getting to the engine and plugs are plenty wet enough At WOT it sounds like it fires - so I assume I'm one tooth off in the timing right now Found these snippets of information while searching on tuning a street port 12a...hint hint... Tuning 12a Streetport So I'm wondering if I'm one tooth off on the distributor now. Maybe it's a dead ignitor as well, I only checked spark on one plug - just haven't had a helper around to crank the car while I check for spark in all plugs. Ah well, we will find out soon...motor will hopefully be pulled over break and a manual trans will get dropped into this car. Have all the parts, just gotta do a custom trans mount since it'll be from an auto to a manual. I'll one up this... I finished DE and Physics and Chemical engineering courses. I'm moving 100 miles cross state. AND I am pulling 60 hour weeks at Firestone. I am a fucking machine. But anyway. Have you tested compression? Could be a stuck seal. A cap of MMO in the carb does WONDERS! :D Re stabbing the distributer is easy on these things. Just rotate to TDC. Then pull the cap off the distributer. Line up your nob on the shaft by the teeth; then hold the rotor with your thumb while you drop it back in. The two contact pickups are labeled L & T. Line up the little swirly X thing (I don't have the foggiest clue what its called) to the pickup labled L. Put the cap back on and you should be in time. ;) As for checking spark. Get four spark plugs (they don't have to be rotary specific) plug all four up and lay them on any metal part of the car that you can see. Painted or not the spark should jump. It should light up like a Christmas tree. :D |
It looks like you've got a great car to work with.
Any chance you'd like to get rid of that factory stereo? |
5 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Jeff20B
(Post 11838830)
Something I've found that starts stubborn engines is 24 volts. It can be tricky to get it to the starter and solenoid only while not letting the rest of the car's electrical see it because it can easily blow fuses and fusible links.
You need a remote starter switch (the pistol grip style is what I use), jumper cables and two batteries. If you're smart you can even get away with the battery in the stock location and some creative wiring to a second battery and the starter. This allows 24V to the starter and the solenoid only, while keeping 12V going to the car's other electrical like at the fusible link hookup point so the distributor (ignitors) and the coils, fuel pump tach etc are powered so the engine will run. I did this last year on a stubborn rebuild that just wouldn't start. Once I hooked up the two batteries in series, it started in I think 6 seconds of cranking. It was extremely flooded and I had exhausted all my other ideas for three hours such as oil down the carb, wet plugs taken out and cleaned several times, new plugs swapped in still got wet, tried three different used Nikkis off the shelf, and pull or push starting was not an option. 24 volts was the only thing that worked. Not very easy to do properly, and the risk of destroying your car's electrical is very real, but in the end it worked out. Try at your own risk. Oh but obviously make sure it's not something simple like a dead ignitor first.
Originally Posted by Qingdao
(Post 11839098)
I'll one up this... I finished DE and Physics and Chemical engineering courses. I'm moving 100 miles cross state. AND I am pulling 60 hour weeks at Firestone. I am a fucking machine.
But anyway. Have you tested compression? Could be a stuck seal. A cap of MMO in the carb does WONDERS! :D Re stabbing the distributer is easy on these things. Just rotate to TDC. Then pull the cap off the distributer. Line up your nob on the shaft by the teeth; then hold the rotor with your thumb while you drop it back in. The two contact pickups are labeled L & T. Line up the little swirly X thing (I don't have the foggiest clue what its called) to the pickup labled L. Put the cap back on and you should be in time. ;) As for checking spark. Get four spark plugs (they don't have to be rotary specific) plug all four up and lay them on any metal part of the car that you can see. Painted or not the spark should jump. It should light up like a Christmas tree. :D
Originally Posted by jbherri2
(Post 11839119)
It looks like you've got a great car to work with.
Any chance you'd like to get rid of that factory stereo? So updates on this car are as follows: 1. Ignition timing has got me all confused 2. I lost the ONLY key for the car :cursing::wallbash: 1. Ignition Timing Pictures say 1,000 words, so a picture with words must say 10,000 words right? Timing Mark for Whole Procedure: https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1418070112 Counterweight for Whole Procedure: https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1418070112 Option 1: https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1418070112 Option 2: https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1418070112 Option 3: https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1418070112 So I'm pretty confused with the timing right now... 2. Lost Key - I started a thread in the 1st Gen Technical Section and I'm just quoting this here: I lost my only key (stupid me, I knew I should have made copies but never went and did it :wallbash::cursing:) and need to figure out my next move for replacing it. I haven't even been able to start the stupid car yet and I'm coming closer towards that goal. Then I had to go and lose the only key for the car. I'd like to replace the following parts with a different key: Ignition cylinder Driver and passenger door cylinders Glove box cylinder Driver and passenger storage bin cylinders Rear hatch cylinder My idea is to get a full set from a part out - will any 81-85 set work? Is the ignition cylinder removable as in the YouTube video I'm posting? Any help is greatly appreciated, need to keep moving forward on this build. |
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