81 FB Build
 

Well it looks like its gonna be another long cold winter, and I got just the thing to pass the time...another project car. This is my 81 FB.

http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/3...g003541.th.jpg

It has no motor or transmission (not for long...lol) . I picked it up a few months ago and am really eager to do a 12a turbo build on it, but for now it will just get a regular carbed 12a with headers and direct fire upgrades just to get it running until I can save enough $ for the turbo build. The doors are super rusty (hey..its a NY car) but I have rust free replacements, and I will be documenting my attempt at bin rust repair now that I own a mig. Other that that the car is really clean with no frame rot or even engine bay rust. Wierd.

Anyway...stay tuned for some frost bite fun!

Looking forward to watching your project! Good luck :-)

nice! Im building a 79 at the moment too. You doing a blow through turbo set up?

No blow through for me...too much of a noob to turbo...lol . I am going to try to replicate a build from the Old School section from turbo dave...https://www.rx7club.com/old-school-other-rotary-63/rx2-sedan-12a-turbo-project-928917/.

Obviously mine is going into a fb instead of a rx2, but you get the idea. As I learn more about what the setup needs I will prob migrate from the stock computer to some kind of stand alone set up.

More pics of the project...
 

I went out behind the shop today to further investigate what I am working with. I was also trying to get motivated to start with this project. I first wanted to take a second look at the kind of rust I was dealing with in the bin area. I was a little disappointed to find more rust there than I remembered at first glance. here is some pics of what I got to work with...

http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/7...5000511.th.jpg
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/9...5000521.th.jpg

Her is some of the rusty areas I am going to try to deal with. First is the rust doors which will be replaced
http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/8...5000501.th.jpg

I have replacements in the back room of the shop for this...

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/6...5000601.th.jpg

Now on to the bin rust areas...

first the driver side
http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/1...5000551.th.jpg

from the inside

http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/2...5000541.th.jpg

and a bit of the dog leg...

http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/9...5000561.th.jpg

the passenger side is not as bad, but will require the same type of repair...

http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/518...5000581.th.jpg

and again from inside...
http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/2...5000591.th.jpg

there is no real rust in the dog leg on the pass side. Although this seems like a significant amount of rust, the rest of the car is really clean with NO RUST at all. I will take some engine bay shots tomorrow to show.

Right now the plan is just to get it running so I can get it home from the shop. Please feel free to give your opinions on the vehicle, but I feel this represents a pretty good starting point for a east coast car, and will probably teach me a thing or two about rust repair...maybe Aaron Cake has inspired me to cut out some rust and make some patch panels...lol IDK. I will try to move away from the thumbnails as the build progresses so the thread can be a bit more reader friendly. :nod:

Just had a look at my oil cooler...looks like someone used it as a jacking point. I doesn't show any signs of leakage, but can I still use this?

http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/5...1300063.th.jpg

i personally wouldnt use that oil cooler.. even though it may not leak.

It looks fine. Use it. Keep an eye on oil temps. But if in doubt, throw it out.

I might have a line on another oil cooler. I feel like its probably fine, but yeah...why take the chance? Got my flywheel resurfaced and installed. Noticed my pilot bearing has no seal in the back. Is it ok to run it with out a seal? After this I just have to repair an exhaust stud hole and it should be time to bolt up the drivetrain in the car. Pics to follow tonight.

Tap the pilot bearing in so you can install a seal. But before you do anything, check the needle bearings inside. Since it ran without a seal for some time, it might be dry and/or worn. If in doubt, change it out. But always use a seal. I've come across several that didn't have a seal because some smart guy stopped requiring them to be included in clutch kits. Instead they include some weird roller bearing. They're not useful except to throw at your friend.

Thanks Jeff, sounds like a plan. I picked another set of "acceptable doors" and they are even the same color as my car. This will buy me a little time in the bodywork dept. Looks like my parts list is coming together pretty quick. I will place an order to mazdatrix tonight for some needed misc items and tow the car back to my garage to put some time in on it.

I have a FC oil cooler if your interested pai.

Thanks Jibaro...I have one in route currently...should be here in a few business days...I may be interested after the holidays since I'm going front mount on the GLC.

Not much has gotten done in the last week or so. Got the car towed back to my garage and am waiting for a delivery from UPS from Mazdatrix to finish getting my engine ready to install. Once its running I want to start on some door replacement and rust repair before the snowy weather gets here. This project has to live outside for now so it would be nice to square some of this away.

Water pump housing mod???
 

I was taking apart the water pump housing to clean it up and replace the the pump etc and then noticed that this hole was plugged intentionally with a quarter and some silicone

http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/7...2300072.th.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

is there any benefit to doing this? I haven't seen it before.:scratch:

Clutch Compatability Issues...
 

Well as I continue to piece together this basket case of an engine with the bits it needs to run again, I have come across what could be an issue. I had my flywheel resurfaced and I noticed that this flywheel didn't have any dowels or "mounting shoulders" for the pressure plate. As I started mounting everything up the first issue I ran into was that when the pressure plate was about to be mounted, there was too much space between the plate mount and the flywheel mount. I went out to get the old set up that came off the engine originally....and then it was kinda clear...I have a 215mm set up and was trying to run 225mm clutch disc and pressure plate!

So am in need of some suggestions...The 225mm flywheel I have is from an unknown year and was a different weight and I was concerned that it would throw off my rotating assembly so I feel that switching flywheels is out. Plus I am really not trying to spent any more money at this point since the holidays are near and any extra cash will probably go to gifts. So buying a new 215mm set up is out aswell...

What I ended up doing is using the only good disc I had. ... 225mm Racing Beat SS and a stock 215mm pressure plate. While I realize this is a less than ideal set up, what want to know is can it work??? The only drawback I can see from mounting it up is that there is a tiny bit of clutch disk that is "sticking out" from under the pressure plate. I assume this will wear a groove in the disk as it is used and make the disk useless for future installs. If this is the case I am ok with it as I am trying to just get the car mobile right now while I gather some parts for the fb's turbo build.

Here are some pics of what the assembly looks like mounted up...I am sure someone has done this by accident at some point...

http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/1...2900074.th.jpg

http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/4...2900073.th.jpg
This is the best I could show the disk sticking out...

Another thing I was thinking is using some longer bolts and like some spacers to mount up the 225mm pressure plate to my flywheel...any thoughts on how to "get mobile" without spending any more dough???

Well it looks like I have to place another order for a couple of misc items...( thermostat gasket, throw out bearing etc) and rock auto has a 215mm clutch disc for like 39 bucks which is more than reasonable so I will spring for it...lol! I will save the 225mm for the turbo build down the road.
I think it would have worked fine the way it was, but for 39 bucks more I can't justify pulling down the trans again if it didn't. I guess I'm getting old...

Whenever you are ready to go turbo and if you decide on the stock turbo II injection let me know,I can make you a harness so you can just pretty much plug and play,good build BTW.I like how you are motivated to fixing the rust issues yourself good job.

Thanks Dave...I will def hit you up once my funds are right.

werd, just let me know.

Well my replacement oil cooler has arrived in very nice shape and I got my ACV port blocked off and intake manifold installed. Looks like the casting on the manifold was starting to pit a little on the sealing side, but since it was ported I wanted to still use it. So I gave it a light coating of rtv and applied the gasket over...If I end up with a vacuum leak I will know the first place to look...lol.

Also got the water pump housing and water pump installed as well as a fresh coat of black high temp engine enamel on the motor (free and available :nod:).

anyway...on with the thumbnail parade...

replacement oil cooler

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/1...0300084.th.jpg

my old parts car will be donating the following

racing beat springs

http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/5...0300080.th.jpg

215-50-13 brand new rubber and cleaner plus rims

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/9...0300081.th.jpg

complete dual exhaust with rb road race style headers and prima flow muffler

http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/5...0300085.th.jpg

here is some shots of progress on the motor...blocked off ACV

http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/9...2900076.th.jpg

fresh paint to clean things up...

http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/469...0300082.th.jpghttp://img32.imageshack.us/img32/995...0300083.th.jpg

other goodies making their way onto to the project...

dual electric fans
http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/8...0300087.th.jpg

and fully rebuilt stock carb stripped down...
http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/8...0300086.th.jpg

now I just gotta get some time to work and a couple of rain-free days...(it always rains on my days off!):(

nice i like it

ok...clutch disc came in today and will go on the engine tomorrow morning before I go to work.

http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/1...0800089.th.jpg

Hopefully tuesday it doesn't rain and I can install the engine and trans in this little beast!

the project is coming along really nicely. Whats your ETA before its running?

If nothing else comes up it should be running in a week or two...fingers crossed.

nice!