I wonder what the fate of this engine would be?
I would imagine efi, however figuring out how to run a 4 rotor 12A on two IDAs would be pretty sweet, haha.

the peripheral 12A scoot engine is run by 2 power FC's. it passes smog too. its from 2005? 2006?

the first semi assembled engine pic i posted is from the 2011 Tokyo auto show, so its NEW.

That's the part I was surprised about. How did they manage to pass smog with a peripheral port rotary, anyway? I know at one point they had it set up so they could cut fuel to two of the rotors during cruise to save on gas. Maybe that allowed it to pass the sniffer test, too.

i've never heard that part of the story, i've just heard that they were able to do it, and it was funny? this is the problem when its like 7000 miles away.

Wao this is so sick, love the project, I'm tuned to this..........

Some progress to report. The side plates are ported about 90%. Now I need to start thinking about paint colors.

Black and silver? Cast coat iron? Vicuna?

I have a local guy wanting me to go Rainbow Dash on this. He's a real fan of the show.

I can do whatever color combo. Help me choose!

I'd go with fairly neutral colors, so it'll look good in whatever car it ends up finding a permanent home in. Black and silver is always a good choice.

rainbow dash would be fantastic on a 4 rotor, more housings = moar colour!

Go with the rainbow dash! :)

Wow, three against one! Keep the ideas coming!

Hey Percent, remember when I ask what colors I should use on the GLC's engine and you recommended black and silver? But then I went with orange and silver. It turned out stunningly good looking in daylight. Glad I went for it.

I'll save the cast coat iron for the REW/T2 hybrid. I bet it'll look sharp. But this 4 rotor is already over the top. Might as well make it official.

well you have 9 plates to paint..
start with white front and then red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, and violet.. then black :D

I think you mean 5 plates. There's also a waterpump.

All aluminum bits will be painted "aluminum" color.

Oh man the desire to go RBD on this is sooo strong right now.

I don't know man, that cast coat iron is talking to me.

is it telling you RBD would be SOOooooOOOOoo cool right now?

This was just posted on jalopnik. Might be old hat but its pretty fitting

http://jalopnik.com/5882593/the-ten-...time/gallery/7

glew

Well I'm going to paint some other side plates cast coat iron and see how good they turn out. It might end up with an OEM look like the Scoot engine has. It's kind of a charcoal grey or something. We'll see.

Freshly done with Cast Coat Iron, if it helps you decide... pix do not pick up the slight metallic component of the paint, though:

Attachment 717963

Attachment 717964

Attachment 717965

Housings not yet polished... Just scrubbed.
Attachment 717966

R5! I'm in love! (insert heart smilie)

Wait, is it nitrided? I see a factory drilled/tapped for oil pressure hole with a BSP pipe plug. Maybe it's a 1980 CA smog thing?

And just in case you're wondering, it should possible to port NO ports to 74 spec closing timing. I just did that on my GSL-SE primaries and I know they share the same port specs. But I've never ported an NO before so I don't know where casting ends and water begins.

The cast coat iron paint you have is a different brand than mine. I bet they're a similar color.

I see you went for a factoryish look by masking the freeze plugs. Housings left unpainted?

looks pretty good... hopefully it doesn't srcatch easily

Has anyone ever experimented or heard of someone powdercoating the rotor housing water passages? I'm sure it could be difficult to apply, but it might cut down on internal corrosion. Just a thought.

If you powder coat the internal water passage you will get more heat build up in the housings, because coating is not such a good heat transfer material.

Yes, nitrided.

You're talking about the top one, right under the oil pedestal, with the hex plug in it, right? To be honest, I've never even checked where it goes - - I'm pretty sure all the R5 rears I've had were set the same way (will check; have pix and such of all).

As far as I know, there is no CA-specific variant of the rear plate - only the mid-plate with the EGR passage.

By the way, I have side-by-side pix of R5 and Y front-plates now; they actually vary quite a bit in total iron involved. The Y plates look to probably be noticeable lighter, maybe as much as a pound or two. Less 'extra' iron on them.

The NO plates have a central channel that carries EGR exhaust gas up to the top-mounted EGR valve, and then down to the intakes. Inside geometry may be a little different therefore. I've only ever worked with EGR center plates.

Mines Rustoleum; wanted Duplicolor but nobody local carries it any more.

Yes, I'm after the 'factory plus' look. Otherwise I would have been tempted into a wilder color for the housings. :)

Plan is to polish the housings and clear coat them. May have to forgo it due to time constraints. Polishing the front cover has turned out to be a lot more work time-wise than I expected, but once you start one, you pretty much have to finish.

Jeff, speaking of freeze plugs (not to hijack your thread, but...); do you ever replace yours on rebuilds?

I've never had to, and have never had one leak, but one of the under-the-front-cover freeze plugs on my replacement front iron looks to have maybe shown a little rust. Might just be from imperfect drying after cleaning the iron, but I'm a bit paranoid about it. Losing water containment into the oil is not something I want to risk.

But I must admit to never having had to replace any freeze plugs - - I don't know how they are removed or installed! :blush:

.

yes, as the plates get newer, they get much lighter, an FD iron feels like half the weight of say an Rx2 iron

the only freeze plug i've ever replaced is actually that one under the front cover, if it does go, it puts water in the oil, and its basically the only way to do that. a new plug is cheap from mazda, i'd say $2, so it'll be $15....

PM me a how-to? There's no access to the thing from the other side; don't wanna mess up and end up with it jammed in the iron.