Oh it was 9500. I remembered it wrong thinking 9000. Sounds like a hardened pump is a good idea here.

But the front cover will come off after a while to check on things like you said.

Also we should consider the total port area of GSL-SE primary ports and 74 spec secondaries. That's only about as much port area as a stock 12A, and we know those tend to run out of power by 6500 or so.

I will port the primaries somewhat. Maybe to GSL-SE secondary spec, if it's not too extreme for the castings. GSL-SE secondary timing is less than stock 12A timing. Glad I've got some templates to play with. :D

i would run an overdriven turbo hardened pump if it will fit under your 12A cover.

Totally agree. We can dream.. my wallet says no lol

Haha I just thought that was too funny. Make fun of the Tercel all you want. Even I do :lol:

I totally thought you were directing that post to karack cause of his previous post, thats crazy too haha.

Excited to see where you'll take this Jeff. I'll be keeping an eye on this thread!

Karack, a turbo pump won't fit the front iron. Bolt pattern is different.

twinkletoes, I've got some revised rotor weights. After fully degreasing and removing all carbon, they dropped down to 4267, 4268, 4268 and 4269. 4269 was the magic number we were looking for. :)

I started looking into steel bar and plate (lol, sorry, bad pun) to lock the irons and housings together. Tomorrow I'll see about using some 1/4" plate to fab up an engine stand attatchment to hold the front intermediate. That'll be interesting to figure out.

Haha thats great! Every little bit helps! :)

9500rpm X .742 drive ratio = 7049 pump rpm.

WOOOOOOOOW!!! Thats SICK! Good luck with the project and keep us updated!!

Small update: oil seals are in. One set of o-rings went in easier than the other. One set was the old Atkins vitons which seem stiffer but thinner? Weird. The other set went in like all their recent sets I've used. That is, easy to press in with a block of wood.

Yes I do recall back in 2003 they seemed a lot harder to install. Using a mallet, I actually broke an oil seal I was using as a pusher on top of the other one. The same happened just now. Twice.

I do have two bags of new o-rings still sitting here. I'm debating swapping to the newer type... Then again these are in now and do spring back up when you push on them. They feel fine. They look fine (no cracks lol).

Competition outer oil springs and good used inner springs. This combo prevents smoke at startup. Even with used oil seals. ;) Yes I know I'm cheap. The seals came from running engines that didn't smoke.

Corner seals are next. I've decided against getting new springs for now. I've got two sets of good used springs. The reasoning is new springs are stiff (specially the NF01s!). They create drag on the starter. Granny's custom 4 rotor wouldn't start so they had to up their voltage to 18 volts. I'm not interested in that. But I don't want the motor to be loose. It is getting new apex seals and springs, and the competition oil springs are a bit worrisome, as both add stiffness/drag.

The goal is for this assembly to be no harder to crank than the 20B turned out to be, or any tight 2 rotor with NF01 corner springs.

I've got some nice thick 2/0 battery cable if needed. :D

this is pretty cool.

I went ahead and swapped in the new o-rings for peace of mind. :) They did go in easier. Just a block of wood. No mallets this time.

Next went in corner springs and corner seals. I went with wire type. You just bend them for more lift. But they're still weaker than NF01/FD. Better for the starter.

After that I had fun test fitting side seals. Several hours and sore finger tips later, they're all in within Mazda's spec. It used up all my long ones.

Lastly I test fitted the front stack. Uh oh. The woodruff slot wasn't machined deep enough. It's hardened steel. So I ground then hand filed the much softer key until everything fits like factory. Very time consuming. I'll check how much height I had to remove later on tonight.

Turns out the middle of the shaft is bigger where the dizzy drive gear sits due to the drill/tapping for the 19mm front bolt. The gear got stuck on the shaft big time. But now it slides on and off with just a little bit of drag. Good enough.

As you recall I had difficulty fitting the front CW. I blamed warpage from welding. It was the shaft as well. tsk tsk tsk... just kidding. I'm happy with the shaft.

More of these messages please :nod:, makes me feel better about going through the trouble of making my own shaft. :blush: Just kidding, sounds like you're getting close to getting the engine together, you should make some pictures :nod:

holy cow, fecking awesome work fella, im struggling to find good 12a housings in the uk, and you have 4, dam it lol

I've been on the lookout for good housings for years. I finally found two decent ones but they have electrolysus pitting around the exhaust port. So far it looks ok but may have a pinhole. I'll check using the Karack tape and water trick.

I picked up an R5 rear plate. It will need an oil pressure hole drilled and tapped.

I'll get some more pics later of the steel to lock the plates and housing together. Just gotta figure how I'm going to fab up a cradle to bolt the F int to the engine stand.

What an awesome project, very keen to see the finished product!

Nice work Jeff!!! i like alot... Subscribed!

nice
 

Nice build man. I look foward to seeing how it goes.

Thanks.

inspiration....

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...6&d=1327705780

but you didn't use a purple marker for the rotor weight so it will inevitably fail miserably!

:sad pony:

Since when did the Scoot FD have side ports? The old videos I saw clearly showed peripheral ports. Did they build a new motor?

i don't know, the pics are all taken from angles where you cant tell.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1327715608

Here's the video I was thinking of:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iXe3nffBSSw

I've also seen pictures of the disassembled engine, and it definitely had peripheral port 12AT housings. :dunno:

i think originally they planned on making it a side port or combination semi PP engine but eventually scrapped it all and went with peripheral ports completely.

a schematic for putting the engine together also showed direct injection, but i have yet to see a picture of anything of a sort actually attached to their engine.