2 years and almost there..... almost...
 

It's going to be a long story with more to come..... it started with a 1985 GSL-SE.

it all started 2 years ago when i hit 200k (miles) I got a wild hair that said "It's time to rebuild it" so I parked the car right at 200,001.6 miles. ( i tried so hard to make it exact but that didn't happen) so I ordered just a rebuild kit from atkins, 3mm seals and all.

I started to pull the engine marking everything with take. Pulled it, and tore down the engine, EASY. then since I had it apart i thought, "well I might as well do a street port, so i ordered the guide things from pineapple racing. (great guys by the way, I wanted to do the bigger port but the suggested the smaller and sent me both kits at no extra charge :nod: ) so i met them half way and did a custom port.

Well then it was time to put the engine back together, not to hard at all...except that when i was putting my cast aluminum intake on I over torqued it by the smallest amount and broke it :blush: then I thought i would just upgrade it :) so being cheap like i am I thought I'd go with the 2nd gen intake mod. I did all the fab to get it to work, on the GSL-SE on the intake is a little port that was not on the 2nd gen intake to i had to mod the "new" intake and put a angle iron on the bottom of it to block that port as it didn't really serve a function (that I could see) I had to block off the extra injector holes, fuel and oil.

So i spent a month getting it all set up. put it on, and dropped it in the car. at this point it had only been 4 months as i was taking my time doing everything. I tried and tried and tried to start the car with all this done to it. but had no luck at all. check all the wiring a dozen times, checked spark, everything... was bad :scratch:

so I started with the ignition. replaced EVERYTHING. still no start. i was getting fuel at this point, so it must have been my job on the intake mod that was bad.. so i put the stock intake on and it still wouldn't start. Then i thought well maybe i just need to pull start it and get everything setup from there, timing could be off or something. so i pull started it and it took about 3 blocks of pulling then it started... YAY!!!!!!!! but no. it was running so bad i shut it right off. it seemed like it had a bad rotor :wallbash: but how i just rebuilt it. i know i didn't mess any of the engine up. so I checked spark, again, it was good. check fuel, ( took out spark plugs and turned it over,) only one rotar was getting fuel. so i drained the tank, blew out the fuel lines with 250psi air, and carefully cleaned the injector, and tested, only one injector was working, PERFECT!!!! another thing to upgrade :nod:

I got 750cc injectors, (i know, more then my fuel pump can handle but that's next) hooked them up and tested them. awesome they work perfect! then bad times came, I was a year in at this point. life got hard, lost my job all that stuff.... so now here it is about a year later and I have finally had time and money, and the attitude to get back to work on the car, one problem though, it's been sitting for a year :facepalm3:

first thing i checked was the radiator, bad.... the water, yes water, i know... i didn't intend on it sitting long and only used water for what was supposed to be the first start. no oil, it was just all gunked up. so i trashed that, then i tried to hand turn the engine, it was hard as hell, so i took the spark plugs out and just sprayed a little WD-40 in each chamber, (yes i turned the engine and sprayed each chamber) it was turning like brand new. so now I'm ordering the new radiator tomorrow (paycheck permitting) and as soon as I get it in I will try the good old pull start.

In the mean time I'm going to block off the OMP and injector holes, I have the kit already. running 2 stroke 1oz-1gallon on fuel. take off the gas tank and drain it, clean it all out and that good stuff. I'll have all the pix i took during the build as soon as I find them all. anyone have any pre starting tips for stuff i should do waiting on radiator?

.

well i cant seem to get my pix to post...

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...on4/engine.jpg fresh out of the car
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...ton4/block.jpg stripped
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/.../firstopen.jpg first look inside
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...beforeport.jpg before the port
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...afterport2.jpg port
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...seportlook.jpg close up of the port
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...ton4/rotar.jpg the old rotar
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...rotarclean.jpg nice and shiny
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...radeintake.jpg upgraded intake (fail)
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/.../afterport.jpg another angel of the port
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...cktogether.jpg the engine back together
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...tockintake.jpg stock intake before it went on
I'll have more pix when I find them all

Hope it works for ya!

Theres a lot of us that have lost our jobs and are just now gettin back on our feet as well...

I am in the same paycheck to paycheck man on an 84 GSL, good luck and keep us posted.

good luck man...storing a motor with straight water is bound to be a problem...hope this is not the case for you.

is it running yet?

So I got the new radiator in, so I drain all of my coolant system. My water pump housing is caked with rust and corrosion lucky me right? With only Mazda having them for expensive as can be. I'm getting it sandblasted for a minor $25 :) and I ordered a new water pump, just cause it's a good idea. http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...531_145453.jpg new 3 row radiator only one problem with it. The coolant level sensor screw in spot is the wrong size too . So I'm going to try jb weld I'll let you know how it goes

I decided That I didn't really need a coolant level sensor so I'm just going to block it off with a bolt. If i have a coolant leak I would be able to see it. So I don't NEED the sensor and i would rather go without then having a getto jb welded on sensor.

you could re-tap the hole to the correct size/thread or find an adapter, then you won't have a dummy light on all the time.

I have a tapping kit. but it's to big, not to small. and it's such a small difference that i cant get an adapter for it without the sensor sitting way high. the hole needs to be smaller not bigger. I figure for the dummy light I'll just take the bulb out. LOL!

Where'd that radiator come from? Looks nice

I got it from ebay for $155 shipped. :)

Today I got all the hoses for my radiator, pain in the ass as since it was a 3row and almost 2 times wider then stock, I had to go to the parts store with 2 peices of barbed wire bent in the shape I needed them. I spent 30 min at the wall o hoses till I found 2 perfect matches.

I also drained the gas tank, replaced the filter and blew 200 pis of air through all the fuel lines to get all the old gas out.

Everything is set and ready to go tomorrow when I try to start it. I'm not even going to try to crank start it, i'm going to pull start it as i know it will need timing and some tuning on everything. I'm going to post pix shortly and I will update tomorrow how the start goes... there may even be a video, we'll see about that though.

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...610_181724.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...610_181742.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...610_181756.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...610_181806.jpg
sandblasted water pump housing, had to get rid of all the rust and crap and there was no way i could afford a new one from mazda for well over $300

I still need to get the elecrtic fans for it, The stock clutch fan will fit with about 1/4-1/2 inch of clearance to the radiator and I just don't want to risk it...

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...604_133623.jpg water pump housing looking brand new

I tried to start it today and it just wouldn't it. I got a lot of backfiring and could smell but it wouldn't start as son as I put the clutch in it would die. Watch the video any help would be nice

I'm convinced it's a timing issue, the plan.... pull up the 84 se 12A. set the timing make where it should be, take out the spark plugs and find out where the rotors are at with a long screwdriver in all the holes. then match that on the 13b, i do have one worry with that though, I know the trailing is off from 12a to 13b by 5degrees, but i think this will work to close in on where I need my engine set. But it'll have to wait till tomorrow as I work all day today. I'll update on how that goes. if it works I'll be sure to post a video

Still no luck on getting her started, I know my timing is right, though I do have one concern. But that aside for a second. I took out my engine wire harness and UN bundled it check every write then put it all back together made a checker 83. Everything tested fine with that. I didn't see a single code, and yes I unplugged stuff to make sure it worked.

So on to the one issue I could have. when I put the engine all together I may have put the gear that the distributer goes to I could have put it on the wrong way, but when I hit the engine with a timing light its perfect so I don't really think its an issue. Any thoughts our suggestions on what I should look for? r

i thought i remembered reading that you shouldn't port the GSL-SE's housings... something about some wall being too thin and not being able to hold up past a minor street port..

at any rate, your car is looking great thus far!! keep plugging away at getting it started. are you sure you are getting fuel into the engine? an improper ground on the SE's engine harness can cause the injectors not to open. there are two black wires with round through ends. these need to be bolted to the emissions rack in order for the injectors to open. i did not bolt them down on my first SE swap back in like 2002.. this is how i know to be careful with them, lol.

I had then bolted to the "dynamic chamber" I'm going to try and move them down to the correct spot on my next day off. I'm sure I'm getting fuel though, I I pulled my spark plus and cranked her over, I good must of fuel comes out.

On the port part I have not noticed any coolant in the engine, if it doesn't hold up driving I know of motor for only $300

do you assume that the engine is flooding due to the larger injectors? keep us updated man. just keep plugging away at it..

I don't understand why you tore down your motor before it died, but I am pulling for you. Not too many stock se's around anymore. I am in the middle of doing an engine swap on mine, had about 250,000 on it when it went. I'm going to rebuild the original motor if all the parts are in decent shape. Good luck!

well it's been a few months.
I'v been working on it when i could. I still cant get her to start. I have done all that I can think of. I'm convinced it's something to do with my fuel. it's not timing right, or something. so I'm looking at putting a carb on it. I used to cring at the idea of putting a carb on my 13b, but with all the problems i'm having it seems like a simple fix. a Carb is, for the most part, a stand alone fuel system, right?

The reason im looking at putting a carb on is simple. I have spark perfectly timed with the engine, i have checked this 100 times over and over, but there is no way to time the injectors, it is timed off of the spark timing and air flow combined through the ECU, Correct? so as i see it if i put a carb on her then that will fix all my fuel issues. sure I could put her in a shop, HA! or replace my ECU and engine wiring, but that just doesn't seem like it would be very cheap. mide you im sure going to a carb wont be cheap either, but in the long run it'll be more simple to tune and all that fun stuff, sooooo my main question is.......

is there a "poor Mans" (something i can part together) way to put a nikki carb on my 6 port 13b? or am i looking at having to buy the whole kit from mazda trix or atkins?

if your problem is the timing, a carb isn't going to help at all.

Sometimes the best way to go through the system is to start at the beginning of the list. Check over everything including the fuses.

I think there is a thread in the FAQ's about timing. On the flywheel there is a cut out. When this cut out is even with the intake/exhaust side of the engine, you are at TDC. The marks on your e-shaft pulley ought to line up or be pretty close. I think there is a mark on the distributor as well. If you can get it close enough to run, you should be able to put a timing light on it and get it exact.

you are right.

I've put a timing light on it just turning it over with the key and it's timed right on with the leading and trailing. what I'm talking about if the fuel timing is off. since the fuel is directly injected into the combustion chamber, so if the timing of the fuel is somehow off it wouldn't be able to start due to the fact that there would be to little fuel or none at all. So my question is.

How are the fuel injectors timed?

and yes i'm getting fuel, I Have pulled my injectors and cranked te engine, fuel is coming out.

Well a lot has happened since I last posted. I chucked going FI. I order the RB 6 port intake for a holly, then got an edelbrock 1405 (600cfm). Made all my own linkage and brackets for the return spring, the cable holder and when the cable connects to it. I know there are kits but I wanted to try to make it all first. Which worked well.

For the return spring and accelerator cable holder I used what was the piece that held the intake up. (See pictures) I bolted right to the top of the engine I pinched one half so the spring wouldn't jump out when letting off. And had to expend the other side to hold the cable. Haven't had a problem in the 3 months I've been driving her every day.

For where the accelerator cable connects to the carb I took just the part that the end of the cable connected to, and I mean the very end of the linkage. Drilled a very small hole in it and got a small stainless screw just bigger than the hole. I got a bolt that fit the screw and put in on the other side of the carb linkage and screwed it together. now it doesn't look perfect but I haven't had a single issue with it.

Next was the fuel pump. The stock one obviously wouldn't work now that its carbureted. So I got a carter P4070 (4-6 psi) that was an easy mount. I put it right under the driver side bin. Connected it all to the preexisting electrical system. I also used the old fuel shield as a backup plate inside the bin. Better safe then sorry right.... ( there is more to the fuel pump in a minute but I'll get there)

Next I didn't want to use the old very small fuel lines so I ordered 3/8 fuel line hose 25' of it. better to have to much than too little. Cut to size and ran right under the car using zip ties. I do know the risk in using hose and not steel tubing under the car but I don't think I will have a problem with it. I have no slack under the car.

then I got the new 3 row aluminum radiator in, and e fans. 2 1500 cfms one push one pull on a auto turn on switch, easy enough. Only reason I have a push and a pull is they wouldn't both fit on one side. All I had to do was pull one of them apart turn the blade around and refers the positive and negative. Works perfect though I think it stays too cool. That's in part to the fan switch being at 180 non adjustable... That's going to have to change...

So I go to start and after a little timing issue she started right up, for about 5 minutes and dies. crank her over again, same thing. Hmmm. continues on like this for awhile. I checked everything. Had a see through fuel filter under the hood and I could see fuel in it. Surly it wasn't a fuel issue, right? So one day I thought well I'll drive around the neighborhood. I could go for about 5 min then died. Well so I got the idea to look at the engine while I was cranking her over. I noticed an extreme amount if fuel going through the filter. It hit me. next test. Start the car and disconnect the fuel line. Sounds like a bad idea I know but it was the only way I could do it. So car started disconnect fuel pump and... No fuel

the car would only pump while cranking her over. not wanting to redo all that electrical work I ran new wires 12 gauge. With a 30 amp resistor and a 12v relay to a switch. very easy and now I have a fuel cut of switch for safty and good luck stealing my car, you'll only get a few blocks. Lol! I turned that silly radio thing on the center console into a switch to my fuel pump.

Cars been running and driving great for 3 months now. I have had a few small things pop up. One point if I turned her off and took the key out She would stay runing. I guess there is a relay under the hood that if its not up and down the car will stay running. Weird. Haven't had an issue since I put it where it was meant to be. Here pix and all the work

Attachment 506941

More pix

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There is still lots of work to do, header, suspension and then interior and exterior.

Looks good! How do you feel about the driveability differences between the old FI and new carb?

Just curious, was that the problem the whole time (last year) when you couldn't get it started....the no power to the fuel pump?....or was that a new problem with the switch over to the new low pressure fuel pump. Sorry if I missed that in the thread.

I suppose it could have been a contributor to the no start problem. Though even with that it should have turned over and fired up cause it would pump when I was cranking. Though I Did take over half the wiring for the ecu when I switched over so I most likely justed pulled a wire that kept the pump going after cranking it.

Driveability isn't bad. I have noticed on sharp corners there is a cut out though I haven't really tried gassing it after/during a corner. there is also a little decrease in throttle response. If I hammer it, it'll take a second to go. it's like it cuts out for a second then the fuel and air hit the spark and boom, gone. I probably need to increase my spark to handle all the extra fuel and air.

The stutter is probably because the 600cfm carb is too big. Especially if your still using the stock exhaust. I would also put the radiator metal cover back on so it doesn't over heat.

Exhaust Is just 2 1/2in tube all the way back though I do have the stock manifold on right new. as for the over heating I haven't had any issues at all. It actually stays to cool, after 4 hours of non stop driving with it 98° outside it I saw the highest temp the car has gotten since the rebuild see pic

Attachment 508093


I actually thought my thermostat was broken as it never really warmed up. One day I disconnected my e fans and sat at an idle till o saw it start going up. I even replaced the sensor and it didn't make a difference. I don't have that cover anymore, I actually plan on leaning my radiator forward soon. Then eventually get an extra hood and do something like this

Attachment 508094

Though I need an extra hood before I start that...

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