1980 Stardust Blue
 

So I'm going to try a build thread. Some of the pictures you may have seen before. This has been a slow start as i picked up the car last April I believe. By goal is to bring it back to the original Stardust Blue with possible mesh wheels.

This is the foundation

I will be doing short posts that focus on a idea or topic.

My God what have I done
 

So I bought a car with a wiring harness that was ravaged no engine or transmission. well, here are some picture:

wheels wells look mostly OK
 

The bin sheetmetal was toast, I will have to find new tin for that. Seats will need to be recovered. New carpet.

GSL-SE 13b! and suspension too!
 

Score an '85 13b with crossmember, transmission no driveshaft. I am still missing that. I have intents to convert the 6port to a 4 port and add turbo using an IDA throttle body. Time will tell if I go with this or not. I also snagged a GSLSE rear end from one guy and found the front suspension parts from Boriquaguerrero, who really saved this project in ways he will never understand. I left with the suspension parts, e-brake lines a complete wiring harness (out of an 83, but i see that as a benefit) and a set of seats. Pure awesomeness.

Electrical
 

I am leaving no stone unturned.I have gone through the instrument cluster and chemically cleaned the copper to remove oxidation. (vinegar and salt mix). I am also going through the wiring harness and bench testing and cleaning and getting it ready. I am thinking of trimming off parts I will not need, such as the carb controls as I plan on running an ECU.

Here is a before and after:

Wiring harness in process
 

Just cleaning and and stuff. I thing I'm going to try the Retr0Brite to see if I can get just a bit more white out of the plastics. My garage wall looks like a cheap Sci-fi tv serial.

I cleaned up the under dash and cave it a quick spritz with a clearcoat.

Clear coating the under dash, cleaning the instrument cluster circuit board, this is going to be intense isn't it? I like your life size schematic you made on your wall using your wiring harness. Should be fun to witness.

It's a bit messier than I would like. I think it will be transfered over to a ping pong table latter this summer. I just want to clean up any unneeded bits and test it out before install. It really is easier to work on it out of the car. I will probably leave the main harness in tact but trim down the engine harness to accompany what ever EFI I choose to go with.

no pictures but transported the car home.

Stardust is in the Lab
 

Which was a challenge since my home is on a hill. a short steep hill. Anyways my son Kristopher helped out. Also included is Kris's first car. a '79 with the hood prop on the right. real good shape outside of the faded paint.

not sure why the photo is upside down, too tired to give a damn.

pulling stuff off for paint...
 

but incase anyone did not know this. You can Allegedly get keys made from the code off the cylinder from the lock on the passenger door. Waiting to try this out.

I cut my keys using a file from the drivers door tumblers. The keys I made from that work everything. I guess the GS trim didn't have a "valet key".


Good move going back to blue... hell of a better color than red IMO.

yes... the blue is a wonderful color. Red works on the FB's I guess.

I can't bring my self to attempt a color change. I would if I could, but there will always be part of me that knows underneath the paint or inside of some panel in a nook or cranny I didn't get to is the OE color. And it would haunt the living daylights out of me. :lol:

E-Brake cables.
 

piddled around today, removed the drivers fender, cleaning up some surface rust. Detailed the e-brake cables

Dropped the tank today
 

Some rust, but not as bad as I was expecting.

it will be a 4 digit number

Turns out that I do not have the ignition lock or the electrical switch that goes with it. I am not sure if the tumblers can be reset for a replacement one. Good thing I am a long ways from working about locks.

got some things done
 

detailed the transmission and removed the steering box

Whats the deal with the vent on the side of the bell housing? I've never seen that before.

GSL-SE Transmission

prepping for SE suspension and paint
 

Just posting as it has been a while. Just a lot of little detail work working out rust removal that has been hiding under paint. Let me tell you that my car was pretty clean but the crap that hides under the paint.

sorry about the weird picture orientation I have no idea what the fuck is happening.

Rust sucks, that's for sure. I found that if I saw a spec of rust and started to sand it away that it would turn into a dime or larger sized 'spider' of rust. I found LOTS of those on my project which forced me to sandblast the entire front half of the car. I used the metal prep after I got to bare metal, then used the POR-15 paint as a base to start from.

almost all disassembled
 

just need to remove the glass... then I am set to do build a tip over rig to restore the underside and work up from there. Also going though and restoring parts using electrolysis. Currently I have the radiator support housings in the tank. If I can swing it... Ill see if I can weigh the stripped chassis.

Wow man, that's an awesome plan!!

perfect balance!
 

Starting from the bottom and working on up.

and another
 

getting down to 'er down under dirty bits

Electrolysis is the bomb diggity... It's plug and play - let science do the work for you! I like the tip over rig, but what is the body resting on?

Part of the issue when I bought this car, the wiring was gutted. So i happened into a 1983 harness, which I am going through and cleaning and bench testing. My goal is to be able combine the newer electrics using the existing headlight switch. After tracking down the schematics I am confident I can use the 1980 headlight switch.

Undercoating removal
 

Easy Off and some scrubbing. Followed up with a wire brush on a pneumatic angle grinder.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c61433c6a.jpeg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6b278e1d71.jpg

a bit more work, I did find some rust spots underneath the undercoating, but nothing that was serious. In my dry climate and not being a daily driver it could have been fine I'm sure. Well outside of removing the last traces of the undercoating I would say this was worth the effort. At least I know the chassis is/will be in top shape for a 37 year old car.

Next issue is what color to paint the chassis. I know I do not want black. I am thinking a grey to keep things affordable, but would consider going with the factory stardust blue or a custom color though HOK. I do know I want to keep it blue. just thinking aloud...

Those pinch welds look good and strait.

What is supporting the car?

Pinch welds have taken some time to get right, I am also nor sure if I can get the passenger side as straight. These are not jack points people! The car is currently leaning against my garage wall, my 8 inch thick solid concrete wall..and resting on two large light truck tires. straps were anchored to the upstairs flooring joists for added for stability.

Hay Richard, just ran crossed your build thread. Great Work! The REPU is going to need a Maiden Voyage in the spring/early summer. you still live in Moses, if so maybe we can make a time for me to check out your work and catch up.

Sounds like a plan, are you looking at doing any shows in the REPU? Do you have any pictures or such of your truck? PM me when you are making the trip.

OK I'll PM you when I'm ready to go. The REPU isn't show worthy right now, my son and his brother did the seat thats about it.

https://www.rx7club.com/old-school-o...rsion-1081256/

Working also on bench testing the system BEFORE it goes back into the car.https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5ddd270fb1.jpgthe drill is not being implemented into the harness

small step update
 

Ordered a NOS ignition and key set today!! Now I can finish up on the electrical and come to think of it , I'll have keys, too. Hopefully I can get a locksmith to reset the tumblers in the door and hatch keys to match the <gush> BRAND NEW <gush> ignition switch.

Hey Richard,
That's a Master Rebuild Project you got there. Not that many people would go this far with any type of vehicle restoration. Stay motivated man and keep up the good work.

Testing all of that before it goes back into the car is smart! lol
I admire your patience in restoring the car and from the looks of it it's going to look great.

Well, I ordered a windshield. Should have a green band, which I hope compliments the blue paint. Last one available... at least in the northwest.

Doing the unstuck...
 

If ever run across this again,another way to remove stuck piston from any brake caliper... find proper fitting for caliper brake line,attach zerk grease fitting and pump grease into caliper. Hydraulic action forces piston from caliper no matter how badly frozen with no ill effects to either.
Cleanup in parts washer and assess condition of parts.

Started on going through electrical. half the light bulbs were bad. I have no hazards or turn signals. Wiper motor draws current but does not operate. voltmeter works, dash lights work, headlight retractors kinda work, but I don't have the headlight pop up switch wired in. hand brake light works, low coolant light works, fuel gauge does not work but the sender was toast. fuel pump gets voltage test through multimeter, windshield fluid motor did not engage I did not pursue, marker light worked. Oh yeah, the blower motor works, but I will need to go through it as it sound like there are some leaves inside.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3fc506384.jpeg

imma gonna let it shine

got the turn signals to work, mostly. I need some more bulbs. Windshield wiper fluid motor now works. No wipers yet. starter solenoid, hatch solenoid and fuel door solenoid are functional. door buzzer works. Brake light work through switch. fuel gauge does work, sender does not. all other gauges function, except for the overheat warning. which Im not sure if that is a battle to fight. Horn relay functions, but did not test voltage to horn harness.

Pending is wiring in SA defroster and Headlight retractor switch into FB harness. Haven't tested the power antenna. mine is an SA and busted. possible replacement or non powered option. I'm also designing for EFI and perhaps AC that is tied into said EFI. But first I get things in order. wire wrap with Tesa high heat harness tape.

Old Seats