This is my second FD. I bought it in 2006 after my previous FD was hit and totaled. I started tracking the car soon after getting it and by 2009 I decided to tear into the car and make it more track capable. I have been working on the car since 2009 to get the car completed and in late 2025 I got the car back on the road and began shake down and tuning. After completing testing and tuning I tore the car down once more to paint the engine bay, interior, and rear fuel cell area. While the car was apart this winter I also rebuilt the differential, did the 5th gear synchro in the transmission and resealed the oil pan. These pictures are how the car currently sits. I am looking forward to getting back out on track this summer and enjoying a couple HPDE and Autocross events that are local to me.

Goal for the project was to get the car more track focused, safe, and correct some gremlins that came with the car when I bought it in 2006. I added a roll bar, racing seats and harnesses and adjusted the seating position to allow me to sit comfortably/safely in the car with a helmet on (I'm 6' 2"). I performed all of the work on the car personally from the fabrication, plumbing, wiring, tuning, painting, etc. This was my first time calibrating and tuning an ECU. I am extremely happy with the results and the car is driving better than it ever has. I put 600 miles on the car since getting it running and I have performed over 40 map updates to get the car what I consider fully tuned.

The car is currently set up as follows:

Custom tubular front chassis
13B-REW with large street port, 3mm seals
SR Motorsports flywheel
Act street/strip with extreme pressure plate
G's racing shifter
manual steering rack conversion
Custom V mount
Custom Setrab oil cooler kit
Custom duct work for all coolers
Dual Spal fans with custom shroud
Xcessive LIM
CJ motorsports billet primary and secondary fuel rails with FPD
Injector dynamics 1050/1750
Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator
20 gallon aluminum fuel cell
Aeromotive Eliminator pump
Aeromotive fuel pump controller
-10 AN hardlines from tank to firewall
IGN1A ignition
Race plugs
Apexi RX-6 turbo
Custom 4" titanium midpipe and catback exhaust
Trans brace and Diff brace
Lower control arms and toe links
Full bushing kit
JIC FLT A2 coilovers
Racing beat sway bar/R1 rear
AP 4 piston front brakes
Tilton 3 pedal under floor racing pedal set with brake balance bar
Full manual brakes with ABS removal
Goodrich stainless steel brake lines
Fueltech FT600 ecu with all new sensors integrated into chassis
Fueltech wideband
Fueltech EGT's
Fueltech traction control
Flex fuel
Sparco Ultra QRT drivers seat with custom mount
Sparco Sprint passenger seat with custom mount
OMP Technica 3+2 harnesses
Full chassis custom wiring
Sleek headlights
All lighting upgraged to LED except headlights
17" Enkei NT03+M
245/255 Bridgestone RE-71 RZ

 

More pictures

 

More photos

 

Electrical photos

 

Exhaust photos

 

Fuel cell and related gear

 

Turbo, intercooler, duct work

 

Driveline and steering

 

General pictures

 

Nice work. Love the exhaust. That spot right next to the intercooler looks like a prime candidate for a fresh/ram air inlet for the turbo.

 

Paint related photos

 

Wow! You've been busy!

When is the first track day?

 

Thanks for the kind words. I agree about the itake location. I actually bought some titanium piping and some gasket material a while back to put a snorkel on the turbo to get the filter inside the front duct work. Figured I would get the car on the road and that can be a project down the road. So far my intake temps have been ice cold so I am not sure if I will follow through or not.

 

Hoping to hit an autocross event in the next few weeks at the local track. They run every other Sunday. Just hoping for dry weather at this point.

 

Wow. Nice work.

Evergreen autocross?

 

Thank you. Yes, autocross at Evergreen Speedway. I have never been, but since its only 20 min down the road and its so cheap I figured its pretty low stakes.

 

All the quality in your build here, these are too hard to ignore - wooden blocks setup as jack stands look like death in waiting




I have done the concentric twist myself - no easy dance. Well done


Great build - looking forward to some more updates

 

Let me know when/date you are going. Would love to stop by, put name to a face. Not many rotary guy around.

 

Haha. Don't worry about the wood blocks. They have huge lag screws countersunk through the bottom into the upper part. I had to perfectly level the chassis to easily fabricate on it with known zeros at plumb and level. The car was on them for at least 4 years.

The wiring was extremly tedious. The entire chassis is concentrically twisted looms within Raychem DR-25. Started with the rear tail lights for something easy and moved forward through everything.