Finally back after the month from hell at the squadron. Between coordinating Katrina and Rita Relief aircrews/helos, and getting helos on the carriers to sortie in preemption of Orphelia, I'll be VERY happy to see this last fiscal year in my rear view mirror. Now back to some rotary geeking...


As Crispy mentioned, all of the original design idea orginated from the previous owner, Mark Valskis (of Brembo NA).

Asleep (Tony): Yes, the car came from the west coast. It needed a little more than just the hoses built. More like EVERY (fuel, coolant, lube, and brake) hose, wire/harness/CB, duct, intake pipe, map, et. Oh yeah, and the shortblock and tranny too.

Mark's design and C&R's fabrication of the radiator were complete when I received the car. When I first got the car, I contacted and discussed both the radiator and the DC EWP with the manufactures to make sure I understood the nuances of these "one- offs." My comments in this thread reflect these insights.

Mark mentioned FOUR other interested buyers when the car first came up for sale. I was fortunate enough to fend off the horde of other "suitors" when the car was on the market. No doubt, our friendship probabley help my standings (along with readily available "Franklins").

EFINI_RX-7_RZ: I run the usual teflon-encapsulated inner and Mazda outer coolant o-rings. The engine is a (RB template +) street port, with Ianetti 3mm one-piece ceramic seals. Nothing radical internally, just the usual litany of minor upgrades. I think I may get a little more radical on the porting next time I have the engine apart (knocking on wood).

Pictures not working now is there a link?

Sorry about that... Yahoo inadvertantly dropped the domain registrant (Network Solution) so I switched web hosts (to "A+").

Carlos,

I was looking (actually drooling is more like it...) at your setup again and was wondering if you thought a similar setup might work on a car running a regular waterpump, A/C and power steering?

It seems like it might be a bit tight to fit the A/C condenser and the lines would definitely be in the way. Such a cool setup but seems like it might be hard to duplicate with A/C and PS...

Thanks. Hope to see it in person some day on track.

i once had a picture of ur engine as my wallpaper, and will turn to it everytime i needed inspiration as to what my FD's gonna turn out, someday... haha... just out of curiousity, what did you do with your coolant overflow tank (the tank on the left of the car). Im thinkin of relocating that, as i dont like the way it is, currently. TIA. :)

Mercury Marine Coils Setup
 

Alberto:
Please forgive the late response, but my Internet access has been very scarce since I began the training for my upcoming Iraq mobilization. Needless to say, these 1940's Fort Bragg barracks don't have internet access.

Thanks for the kind words! I do agree that my setup plus the usual accessories would be a tight fit at best. However, anything is possible if you spend enough time and money.

I suspect I'll be trying to make-up for my year in "paradise" with a heavy track year in 2007. Hopefully we'll get to play on-track then!

13Joe:
That's funny, my "fuel-to-noise" convertor is also my screensaver! https://www.rx7club.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif

The fill tank acts as the air seperator. You can see it under the engine torque brace:

http://www.the-rotary.net/images/rx-...p%20front).jpg


Autronic 500R install:

I recently installed an Autronic 500R CDI and a set of MM coils. I'll take pictures of the complete setup next time I'm home on Leave, but I've included a picture of the coils setup below for now. Unfortunately, I do not expect to have a complete evaluation until I'm able to tune it some time after my return from mobilization next year.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...hmentid=142990

Are you using -16 or -20 AN for your coolant lines?
Also where are all the coolant sensors mounted?

Coolant lines and sensors
 

The coolant lines betwen the radiator and the engine are -20.

Both the E6K and HKS gauge coolant sensors are TIG into the coolant inlet of the radiator. You can see them well in this picture:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...hmentid=111429

Whats with the Guinness can?

Carlos I sent you a PM yesterday.

The Guinness is one of two catch cans. It collects crankcase overflow, and the Boddingtons can back by the wiper motor is the coolant overflow catcher.

BTW, PM replied earlier this PM.

question...if your E6K temp gauge is on the bottom of the radiator...what tells your pump to turn on? I saw you have the controller, I assume the haltech turns that on. But do you have to wait until the coolant in the block heats the coolant in the -20AN line and then to the bottom of the radiator, which has wonderful ducting!! and probably keeps the coolant down there nice and cool...

I'm working on an electric WP set-up and I'm confused how you trigger your pump and monitor the coolant in the engine.

I have no doubts that your system will keep the engine at proper temps...but when to trigger?

I'm working on the same thing now, and need to mount all the sensors someplace and I've heard some say to put on the cool side, others on the hot side. I think the stock sensors are mounted on the cool side.

Carlos, where did you get your -20 AN fittings, I'm having problems finding a good selection of that size of fittings. I might just try the -16 and have a go at it.

Is your radiator single, double or triple pass?
Also, how is the EWP and controler working out for you? How many miles on this setup, anything you would change, etc...
Thanks!

Dubulup:

My bad. You're correct in that there is one more water temp sensor. The sensor/thermocouple for the DC Electic Water Pump (EWP) Controller is install into a bung threaded into the stock H2O gauge sensor postion (in the rear end housing.) Obviously, the controller modulates the EWP to maintain the rheostat set water temp. The only aspect of the coolant system that the Haltech controls is the radiator fan.

The EWP Controller is set to a 185F water temp baseline. The fan is set to turn on at 195F and turn off at 175F.

As previously report in this thread, I'm VERY satisfied with the car's water and oil temp control. I'd be hard press to isolate what aspect(s) of the coolant and/or oil system has had the most positive impact.

Glass Man:

The radiator is single pass. I have about 3K on the setup, including two track days (see page 4 of this thread) and one autocross, all in warm weather So far the system has been flawless.

As for the AN fittings, Mark Valski supplied them with the car, so really can help you with this one... sorry.

Nice, that is slick! So is the bung that threads into the stock location a standard part??

If so, please share P/N

any pictures of what you did, if this is custom??

Try this: http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/

Carlos: What kind of power is your car putting down and at what boost? Looks awesome by the way!!!

Dee

Dubulup:

If I recall correctly (I'm not at home and won't be for a few weeks), the water sensor bung is a 1/8 NPT compression fitting. Check any site that sells thermocouple and you'll find the beast.

Mr2ForYou:

Thanks for the compliments. Below is the dyno from back in May:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...hmentid=114755

Though I expect to be 5-10% better than that, I will not be about to test my latest upgrades until sometime next year when I get back.

This car is fantastic!

I understand this is an old thread, but I was running a search. And I don't visit this part of the forum often.

I'm back and BUSY!
 

wptrx7:
Thanks for the compliment. Sorry I didn't respond sooner but I'm only just getting back to my Rotary Mistress after my year and a half playing "Soldier."


IGNITION UPGRADE (Update):

I just finished redoing all of the wiring on the Autronic 500R / Mercury Marine coils (one per plug) upgrade. Wiring was done as close to to mil-spec (Mil-C27500 wires, Raychem DR-25 and transitions, and Deutsch DT connectors) as I could personally manage.

http://www.the-rotary.net/images/rx-...Installed).JPG

http://www.the-rotary.net/images/rx-...0Asssembly.JPG

http://www.the-rotary.net/images/rx-...Installed).JPG


E6K - 500R WIRING SCHEMATIC (validated by Ray Hall of Autronic):

http://www.the-rotary.net/images/rx-...0(revised).jpg


E6K SETTING:
The Haltech E6K ignition setting were changed to Constant Duty
(50%) and Falling Edge trigger. No other changes to the original stock ignition E6K setting.


ISSUES: Car started up but runs very rough at idle, and requires about 5-7% more fuel to maintain at ~850 rpm. Going to check the timing later today, but I'm not hopeful it'll be that simple. This is my second attempt at installing the CDI/coils and both times I've had the same issues. Last time, I was in a rush because I had just ourchased the parts (thanks Enzo) before the volunteering datacall for the Iraq deployment arose. I had assumed that the problem was a rushed wiring job so I just redid it again.

This next couple of weeks I'll troubleshoot, but if anyone has any ideas or insights, I'm certain open to the feedback/input. I've still got a couple of minor ideas to confirm, but I'm at one of those annoying moments of innovation when I wonder why couldn't I let good enough be enough. :wallbash:

Needless to say, more to follow...

hey carlos

scratch the coils. i had the same coils for a year and had some strange ignition problems. after switching coils and setting the timing again, it was all fine. ive had several freinds having problems with the mercury coils.

im running the crane cams LX92 coils now. they are about 60$ from summit.

oh and a nice build. what kind of brake master are u running?

JT

Ray Now advises AGAINST the mercury coils .

Good choice on the ignition box ;)

Not sure why you guys are having problems..

i run over 50psi boost with methanol and i don't have any problems with my mercury coils..

Dont like your mounting locations though , had some problems with mine that may have been heat related.

JT:
Thanks for the feedback.

Back when I purchased the MM coils they were the "upgrade d'jour, " and I was easily seduced by both the performance potential and cost. There wasn't a lot of information on them. As has often been the case, being at the point tip of the innovation can often be painful; this has been one such instance.

I have to admit that though the coils are probably going to be the first parts replace, I haven't completely given up on them yet. I plan to check all of the coil ferrites, open the CDI box to make sure nothing is obviously wrong, replace all of the plugs, check all of the plug wires and then make a sacrifice of my first born child to the troubleshooting gods in appeasement of favorable insight. :bowdown: If none of this work, the MM coil will come out.

As for the dual master brake cylinders, it's one of about a half dozen sets that an old friend (Mark Valskis) custom made. I think I know where most of the others five "siblings" are, and I know they are both in good hands and with owners that greatly value them.

Marcel:
Yeah, I've read several similar posts on the Autronic Forum. Sounds like there may be variation and possibly quality control issues with the coils. Appreciate the concurrance of several other suggestions.

BTW, I'm not so worried about the location's thermal exposure because the problem is happening at idle before anything gets even remotely hot. I know it's hard to tell, but I pretty thoroughly covered the mounting braket in thermal barrier. I know this provides limited insulation but I'm fairly certain that between the openess of the surrounding space and a structural insulation the coils won't see any excessive heat.

Enzo:
Do any of the different variation of the coils or possible QC issues above ring a bell or has this run counter to your experience. I'm quickly coming to a point of frustration and could use any insight you might afford.

Sean :
Yeah, it's a nice box, but it sure will look a lot nicer if it ever gets my old "fuel-to-noise convertor" boosting past 20psi. Till then, it's just another hot looking box that's NOT putting out. :boink: