Suspension is complete!!! At least for now. She feels good. I have to start worrying about speed bumps again. She hasn't rubbed at all and had plenty of chances already if she was going to have a problem. I would describe her as very flickable in the turns and feels solid at just over 100. Haven't had her to fast yet.
Cam @ Pettit is truly an awesome guy. He spent a lot of time helping to set her up. He did a small roll and pull so we could get her a little lower. Rear squats nice on the launches. Not the best pics, but you can get the idea. Next is meth/water injection!!!!! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...41295657ba.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...58417f7b00.jpg |
So I picked up an rx7store resonated midpipe. I am pretty excited about it and would like to get the water/meth hooked up 1st.
Anyone have any input on the water meth hookup I would love to hear it. Just a simple boost activated system. I put a thread up in aux inj....., but I dont see anyone in there lol |
So quick update on everything. Had a 3rd oil cooler fail. Maybe a bad batch. This is getting a little frustrating and it is time to do some very serious investigation. There has to be a pressure issue from an obstruction or something. It is hard to have fun if your scared you will destroy your engine lol. 1 had a pinhole, 2 literally burst at the seams between rows. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.....Wife and neighbors are very happy.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...886af2c35e.jpg I guess after I figure out WTF is going on and get it fixed I will give in to fuel injectors. Going with 2200 secondaries. With duty hitting 90% it is that time. While uim is off I will probably install a fast acting temp sensor and new leading coil. Oh I shouldn't forget about the fuel dampener and fuel pump wire mod. I am not sure after the injectors besides maybe trying out the resonated midpipe. Also the ABS light is staying on after coilovers where installed. All the sensors supposedly check out ok. Damn, I still haven't fixed the tach yet either lol. Maybe I will tie up all the little odds and ends then get back into additional mods. Maybe Banzai diff and tranny brace??, 430 gear? Interior? Water/meth. No idea really. |
Oil pressure regulator broken?
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Originally Posted by Narfle
(Post 12311075)
Oil pressure regulator broken?
Just after start up about 4 houses down the street at no more than 2500 rpm. Cold oil, but I am pretty sure she was only at 60ish psi and just had the sensor replaced after the 1st ons went. Very frustrating when you make a mod to try and protect and and strengthen something and it ends up like this. |
The only times I have seen oil coolers fail is when the inline thermostat was installed backward or someone (shady shop) had smashed the pressure regulator flat, stopping it from opening up. If you did not have this problem with the OEM oil cooler, which it sounds like you did not, did you install a Mocal or similar thermostat?
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...r-mod-1125433/ |
Thx for the response Banzai! There is no thermostat installed. Just fittings, stainless lines, and coolers. I would hope the regulator was never touched as we never spoke about it and I see no reason why to mess with it.
Something I could definitely check. I assume we would not see it as that is after the oil pressure sensor? |
Regulator is in the pan, there are pics at the link I posted. Again if you did not have this problem with the OEM cooler, it is a problem with the lines or routing. Check for any kinks.
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Thx. I read that thread. That is crazy stuff. I am pretty sure the pan was never removed. I see no kinks. I could try and rig it to see if it kinks under pressure maybe. Other than that I see no other option but to take everything off and inspect. I can not keep leaving oil slicks and risk blowing my motor everywhere. Very embarrassing and VERY frustrating.
Terry |
Get a pressure reading off an aftermarket gauge to confirm your oil pressure. You can tap the factory banjo fitting, or better, install an aftermarket oil pedestal (FFE or Sakebomb) with the added benefit of several taps (press and temp) and ability to fit a larger 929 filter
You may also want to install a T-stat, esp with two coolers. When my thermostat opens with two coolers, it drops below the thermostat rating like a rock. Without one, you could be running too cold (like below 150). You could install it on your second cooler to manage when it comes on-line with the first always on. |
Originally Posted by TomU
(Post 12311155)
Get a pressure reading off an aftermarket gauge to confirm your oil pressure. You can tap the factory banjo fitting, or better, install an aftermarket oil pedestal (FFE or Sakebomb) with the added benefit of several taps (press and temp) and ability to fit a larger 929 filter
You may also want to install a T-stat, esp with two coolers. When my thermostat opens with two coolers, it drops below the thermostat rating like a rock. Without one, you could be running too cold (like below 150). You could install it on your second cooler to manage when it comes on-line with the first always on. Well, I have a sakebomb pedestal with arm temp :( nothing aftermarket to tap into. All AN, braided lines, and coolers. I have verified temps with gun and thermometer so I know the temp is accurate within 2°f of so... |
The sakebomb pedestal has a couple ports for aftermarket sensors. If you want to verify your oil pressure, you can add an aftermarket sensor/gauge there
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Yes I am aware of the 2nd port. I wanted to avoid another gauge, but considering how many issues I am having with oil it may not be a bad idea.
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Sorry Tomu. I meant there is nothing to tap into further down the system. If there is a pressure issue it has to be from the right oilcooler return line. So oil goes in just fine, but it isnt flowing out quick enough. Pressure builds to bursting point and bamo. So that is what I am assuming.
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Sorry Tomu. I meant there is nothing to tap into further down the system. If there is a pressure issue it has to be from the right oilcooler return line. So oil goes in just fine, but it isnt flowing out quick enough. Pressure builds to bursting point and bamo. So that is what I am assuming.
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Nice meet you at the Churrazco meet.
I'm Steve, with the red FD, from Melbourne. Hope you get her up and running soon. |
Thx man. It was awesome meeting you also. Yeah, small bump in the road I guess. If this is the biggest problem I will be ok lol.
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Upgrade to an upgrade. Maybe these will work out better.. so far as dry as it can get.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9559741c82.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b963e0b521.jpg Gave her a little wax job for the first time. Such a shame there are so many bad spots on the paint. Some places really clean up. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7f1da0d64e.jpg Part of me wants to get on the brakes and paint/possible rebuild. The other part wants to finish up the injectors and water/meth. No idea yet. |
Nice man! Glad to hear shes up and running again.
Was the issue defective oil coolers? Also were you able to verify oil pressure? |
Thanks!! Couldn't see anything blocking the lines so figuring it is defective batch of oil coolers. I guess time will tell at this stage.
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So I have a coolant temp issue now. Awhile back after the 1st catastrophic oil event she started running hot. I saw 106°c one time and seemed to want to stay at 100°c. Way too damn hot imo. I swapped out the thermostat and it seemed to help quite a bit, but was still warm. 95°c. I noticed the condenser and the radiator were full of crap from the oil collecting dirt and grime. The fins on the condenser were pretty beat up so I straightened a lot out, cleaned her up a bit, and she was back to around 93°c. She hit 99°c today damnit. I was in traffic so a lot of stop and go. Looks like she still has a lot of grime in the fins. Oil temps got up to 205°f with the new coolers, but cool immediately once I started moving.
1. So I will try and clean the condenser and radiator up again. This time very serious. 2. Verify if I have the FC temp mod. If not get it done. 3. Flush the radiator out and verify 70/30 with some additive. 4. Finish my ducting of the rad. The rad looks to be in very good shape at least from the outside. 5. I just tightened the belt a tad bit on the pulley for the water pump. (Pettit air pump delete) Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated. Once I get the cooling back under control I will start with fuel injectors, swap the primary coil, plug wires, cruise delete, add an oil catch can, and water/methanol inj. I will probably only run 13psi. She should be quite fun at 13 though. Vented hood is in the plan, but I am wanting to wait until paint, spoiler, etc. |
That's not that hot. Probably just clean everything off.
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Originally Posted by Narfle
(Post 12313356)
That's not that hot. Probably just clean everything off.
You the man.... I hope that's all it is. I dont have time for this. I need this time and $ to make her go faster!! |
I'd be a little concerned with water temps over 100C when you are moving. It'll get hot when idling, but what's important is the temps when you get airflow across the coils. The FC switch should help when idling. You can also turn on your AC which kicks up the fan speed.
Also, i'd recomend an idler pully if you deleted your air pump. You may have some belt slippage. |
Thx Tomu. It actually runs warmer when I am moving. Cools better when idle.
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