Mine is psi only. No map, no rpm.... 4th gear from 2000rpm up at max boost is same water as 7000rpm 2nd gear max boost. That's to what I understand.
I have noticed no degradation in performance in either scenario.... well, I haven't been past 6500rpm yet, but it should matter less the more rpm I would assume. Unless you got some kind of high rpm ignition breakup I've heard of. I don't forsee that being an issue though.

BTW I would try this pre turbo also, but I am to scared to mess up my blades... my old turbos are actually in excellent condition so down the road if these have some issues I may swap them and inject pre turbo also. I could see how it would make a significant difference.

Stereo installation is complete. Still need to fine tune everything with the amps and all. I get kind of picky so that may take awhile.

Removed cluster to figure out what I will do about intermittent tach (the ever so common tach jumping around).

Mazda is backed up on Pillow bearing covers damnit. So I am holding off on my J Auto bearings.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2eae6a0d1b.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3d9f1e1469.jpg

What water/meth kit did you get? Where are you injecting the water at?

AEM with Sakebomb tank.. injected into the elbow. Kept it simple, yet effective.

Looking back as time goes by it is interesting to see the transformation these cars go through (and the money spent). This car is rather boring compared to the majority on here, but none the less it has been through it's changes. I thought I would compile a list and keep it current from time to time. It is hard when looking at a thread and reading page after page to gather all the mods for a particular build.

1994 Auto FD 53k miles (currently57k). Montego Blue with Black and Tan.
Blew the motor... Supposedly the motor had 3k when bought. Looking at the internals showed something else.

*1. Manual conversion by Petitt with 4.44 diff. Banzai diff brace. Banzai tranny brace to be installed.
Custom shift knob and boot.
2. New Mazda motor (from Ray) Street ported by Kilo Racing
REC coated apex seals (go by various other names)
LIM/UIM ported and matched. Thermal barrier and dispersant coatings. TB ported by Pettit.
*3. Apexi Power FC (Apexi 3bar and boost solenoid to be installed)
4. RP Secondary rail with 2200s. New FPR. New Denso TT pump. Fuel filter relocated.
5. New coils oem, Magnecor Plug wires, HKS Twin power.
6. New Hitachi 3kai Twins, simplified sequential with all hoses replaced.
*7. Pettit Intake and Cool Charge III IC with custom parts (my redneck engineered thermal management still in the making) Thermal dispersant and barrier coatings. Battery relocated to rear passenger bin)
8. Koyo Nflo with upgraded water pump and Mishimoto hoses) Fan switch mod. AST delete. Mishimoto thermostat. Pettit pulley (airpump delete)
* 9. Dual Mishimoto oil coolers. No thermostat. Will need to do something about that. The oil temps are to high for my liking. Need ducting also. Sakebomb's oil pedestal.
10. AEM Water/meth kit with Sakebomb tank and mount kit. Injection at elbow.
*11. "track pro" coilovers... appear to be CX racing by Petitt with RB front sway bar. J Auto bushings to be installed.
12. Bonez DP wrapped, magnaflo midpipe, RB dual (hiflow cat on standby if needed)
13. Black satin wrap, Shine auto Carbon fiber rear spoiler, shine auto carbon fiber oil cooler vents. R1 lip, Enkei Kojins with 245/35r18 and 275/35/r18 Potenza, rolled arches), Carbon fiber headlight covers.
14. Bonez Cross drilled rotors with hawk pads. RX7.com front marker lights tinted.
15. AEM Xboost gauge, Failsafe water/meth, oil temp, wideband. With 3 gauge cluster on dash and boost in pettit steering column. Pioneer double din with Infiniti 6.5, 6x8, and Memphis sub and amps. JL audio wiring.

I am Running Castrol GTX 20w50. I settled on this because it is tried and proven. It is so cheap I can change it every 1000 miles or less if I want without breaking the bank. Fuel dilution and dirty oil to me is more important to keep in check than running a synthetic.

Premix 1 oz per gallon right now. Idemitsu and "Pettit". I have a bunch of Pettit which is probably just rebranded, but will use it up and probably stick with Idemitsu.

I will probably keep few gallons of 100 octane to mix in.

*Next mod before tune....Sakebomb's fuel pump harness should arrive today!!
Hopefully she will still idle good after mod. I will work on that before she goes in next month (sept.)
Install apexi map sensor and boost solenoid.

Then off for a real tune!! Street tune then on the dyno for a few pulls. Not sure what to expect with these turbos. I may just run it at 13psi or do a high and low or 12-15? No idea. Hoping for a min of 325whp.

Then
* duct the oil coolers and rad. It hasn't gotten gotten over 86°c with 95+° weather, but I want it cooler. this is not driving it hard, so I am not sure how it will be once beating on it. This is with oil temps at 200°f
*install j auto pillow ball bushings.
*purchase and install a vented hood.
*eventually re cover these seats.

Hoping these seals don't eat up the housings and hoping to get a few years of fun!!
It will always be a project, but I am looking fwd to building a 4x4 again. My son will be 15 next year so I need to get him something..... 4 runner... old land cruiser?? Hmmmm, no idea yet, but it will be sick whatever it is.

*This post is probably do to my boredom with the Covid 19... I probably missed some mods, but it's all good.

JL audio grounding cables.... not that I am having any issues, but hey why not.
4 gauge Batt to engine
8 gauge, uim to 2 chassis, 1 engine.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...31255b72d9.jpg

Its amazing how much work/time and $$ that some of us put into this cars. I think we can get carried away easily when we try to upgrade or make thing a litle better.
Hey its part of the journey.
Ducting the oil coolers does wonders. You need a thermostat though.
I like what you are doing... keep it up so you can enjoy your hard work.

Thx red. Yeah I don't know why the ducts weren't put back on. I wasn't there. I assume space?, it I will take the nose off sooner or later and modify them if need be. I haven't ran a thermostat since I had it and it was running just fine. Maybe a little longer to warm up, but that's about it. I could see the cooling effectiveness also though.
Should be a fun car.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...73e99b716b.jpg
Midpipe back out.... cat back in.
Must control boost!!
we may try the midpipe again in the future, but for now I want as much control as possible.

Update after the hiflow was put back on... louder and more "pingy", but boost is 7 max... was almost 9 before. Definitely notice a difference in power and spool.
Apexi 3 bar map sensor was not "option 1" in my pfc. The correct figure is 6579 with an offset of 3000 ( adjust offset from there). I ended up with 6579/2864 for to be zeroed on the commander.

Pre control is hooked back up. Wow, what a difference it is then having it just abruptly open. Feels like how Mazda probably intended it to be. Very exciting about this as running without it made for extremely unpredictable situations on hard corners!

I forgot to mention the grounding kit actually made a difference and the commander and batt read within .1 volt. It was off by maybe .3 before. A testament to adding grounds!

Boost (wastegate controller) solenoid hooked up. Not plugged in though until tune time. With the hiflow cat it is running pretty solid at 7-7.5 psi. I put the controller under the intake filters so they would have as short of hose as possible. Heat should be ok, and mounted the bracket on some rubber material for a little protection from the vibes.

Not the best picture.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...78d42a95a8.jpg

Final update before tune.
Changed the oil for the 3rd time in 1500 miles.
Sakebomb's fuel pump harness is installed and pump is running.
Oil coolers were ducted with foam. Yeah, I know. It did result in a 8-10°f drop with just slow cruising around, so it is much better. I will have to take some time and figure something out as they are mounted so close to the intakes. Brackets probably need to be reversed.
Other than that I think I am g2g. I need to fill in the gap on the bottom of radiator and tray, but she is running so cool I am not in a huge rush. Maybe before the tune.
Plow Balls will have to wait till it is back.
pic of coolers from underneath.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ae1ff8e39a.jpg
Black is the wrap coming in the intake.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1a8f4e936b.jpg
Foam fit nice and snug with minimal in front. Filled in the both sides and top nicely.

Unfortunately think that foam will blow out at speed. I cut some sheet aluminum on the bottom and outboard side (inboard was right at the bumper opening so there was no gap). Used cardboard with the bumper attached to make a template. Pic...

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3da2624da9.jpg

Thanks Tom.
Yes, I planned on mimicking your setup actually. I don't see the foam going anywhere unless I am 100+mph.... it is in there pretty good. May not look like it in the pic. We will see after my trip across South FL to the tuners I guess. I just got back from a drive trying to get my idle afr down a tad after the pump mod and it is definitely effective. My temps are way down compared to before. Amazing really how something so simple makes such a difference. I am wondering how the gap under the rad will effect it. I may start running too cold lol (like that's possible in south fl).

All that matters are temps. If your temps are good unducted, why duct it?

Too cold is a nice problem to have, but it's still a problem. With the dual oil coolers, it's hard getting over 160 when ambient gets below 50. When it gets that cold, i block the passenger cooler. Better would be parallel system with two T-stats that open at different temps, but that's too complicated for what i need. I'm also running a lighter winter weight oil. 5-10W

I will not have the below 50 problem. ..... that's another reason why I decided to stay without a thermostat for now. Or let's say I am not in a rush to get one. As for the ducting I agree. If the stuff doesn't blow out and the temps are good then I will keep it as is I guess.
Taking the car up North will be very seldom and I could just cover one. I will probably go with a lighter weight oil soon to see the difference.
Now I am thinking of a separate omp tank.... hmmmm $$$$$$.

Do you have an oil temp gauge? It might be a little cold on warm up w/o a T-stat, but in So FLA, you probably don't need it.

I went dedicated OMP. Not sure that's really necessary. Does synthetic truly not burn. Think everything burns. If you really worry about it, you could pull the OMP and go full pre-mix

I have a temp gauge. Runs around 180 when moving... light cruising. That's with the 20w50 dino.
I think the synthetics burn fine and I may still go for it, but not sure yet. I mean the premix is synthetic.
Only reason why I was thinking of dedicated omp is because of the blow by. Dirty oil!! Lol

I am excited for the tune!

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9a387b43f8.jpg

Finally... still some work to do. 330 at 12-12.5 psi. I think is what it was.
I think we can up the boost a bit, but she seemed to start to lean out a tiny bit towards the end of the session..... hot fuel? Hot pump? Low fuel (in take)?. Ok. Terminals on pump getting too hot?
Ran damn strong even at 8psi. I will keep her at 10 until I am sure all is well.

Fuel pressure seemed fine through the session. The dyno operator said he is pretty sure he saw some pressure drop on the last couple of the runs at the end.
She feels very snappy and quick on the road.
The Mishimimoto thermostat has to come out. She ran wayyyyyyyyyy to cold on the drive over to the other coast if FL. Ambient temp in the 60s. Water temp wouldn't go over low 70°Cs and oil temps for down around 150°f cruising at 90.. 70-100 the temps stayed the same. Water even dipped into the high 60s a few times. Temps on the dyno were cool also. I had to pull some fans off the front and focus them on the oil coolers as the water temp was fine.

That's the exciting update. Progress has been made!

Good for you bud. Its so great when all the hard work pays off and we actually get to go out and enjoy these cars! In for more updates. :icon_tup:

Thanks and I agree 100%. I am a little paranoid after an unexpected $8k or more so I will be taking things slow.
I will get a fuel pressure gauge and dump some extra fuel to the map in the higher cells until I verify there is 0 indication of leanness.
I will probably get a fail safe afr (I should've before) and swap mine out. At least I can get it to bitch at me if it goes into the 12s for faster verification. I am by myself on this pretty much so it is difficult to get things done sometimes.
It definitely feels good to make progress. It is a "fun" car again. Surprisingly quick.

Quick update. Since it is so difficult to get someone around south FL to help tune these things I got FC-Tweak awhile ago. Working with Xavier (the guy who created it) we found some lean cells around P17. The car is now flawlessly pulling 11s and 10s in boost. What an amazing program. I am kind of surprised more people are not using it. Even "professionals" as it can save so much time and smooth things out so well.

I will most likely move fwd with adding some wires through bulkhead to the pump as a redundancy anyway, but I am thinking this problem is probably resolved.

The 7 needed some love so last night I was up till 3am with it.

All tail light bulbs switched to LED

Oil changed to synthetic.

Seats removed and being recovered.

Small coolant leak located and fixed. (Tightened a lower hose clamp)

Installed a new custom hi flow cat. Excited to see how it will work out. Should flow better than the pettit, but hopefully will still keep the creep down.

Cleaned it up underneath a bit. May pull a couple pieces to repaint... little bit of surface corrosion.

I will start the fuel pump rewire in tank over the next couple days probably. Also left front abs sensor which I believe is why my abs is messed up.

The DP was a bit wet on the inside. I guess the premix is present as I was running quite rich? I should pull the plugs and check them.

Happy new year anyone who may see this!

I was not familiar with the FC tweak program so things for bringing that up.

What covers are you getting for your seats?

Which HFC did you go with? I added a vibrant in my racing beat exhaust and not in the mid pipe because I didn’t want to get rid of my large resonator. I have not installed it yet as I’ll need a retune and haven’t had any time.