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Old Apr 20, 2017 | 06:06 PM
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From: houston
#slevin build thread

Figured I would make this thread to go ahead and introduce myself, and more importantly to keep all my new questions in one place. My name is Danny and I bought my first FD while stationed in Okinawa in '09, never really worked on it just enjoyed driving it. I've been wanting another one ever since and finally ended up buying this 93VR touring (I believe) last October. Since then I've done the following;
BNR twins
Intake manifold ceramic coated by polydyn in Houston
New primary injectors
Secondaries sent to RC eng
New OEM engine harness
Silicone vac lines from HPS
Viton check valves
Tested all solenoids (replaced two)
Efini y pipe
Mishimoto radiator
Re amemiya AST
Triumph IAT
FC thermoswitch
HPS silicone all coolant hoses
And lately the tgs cat back
When I bought the car it was bone stock, save for exhaust. Had a bonez downpipe and midpipe, the midpipe was welded to some custom magna flow setup that sounded pretty terrible, other than that it had some boost issues and a sow coolant leak/oil pan leak

My plans for the immediate future is
HKS RS intake, bought on the forums here
ARC SMIC, same
power FC
Supra TT fuel pump
Ballenger A/f controller with ntk production sensor

That's it for now, I'll post some pics shortly
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Old Apr 20, 2017 | 06:12 PM
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Old Apr 20, 2017 | 08:02 PM
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That is beautiful!! The car is super clean. Past what you listed as next steps, what else do you plan to do?
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Old Apr 21, 2017 | 10:08 AM
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From: houston
Well I guess my next steps would be,
learn basics of tuning
Bigger intercooler, more fuel
Destroy engine, learn
a streetport then maybe paint and wheels?
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Old Apr 21, 2017 | 10:45 AM
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I say forget the SMIC setup and go V-Mount. IIRC ARC SMIC core is pretty small.
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Old Apr 21, 2017 | 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Brody8877
I say forget the SMIC setup and go V-Mount. IIRC ARC SMIC core is pretty small.
Agreed with Brody. Depending on what stage BNRs you have, the ARC SMIC is pretty small. You'd need at least a Greddy, ASP, or M2 SMIC.

BTW, your Kouki Round Tail Lamps are en route to you.
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Old Apr 21, 2017 | 02:59 PM
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I already have the ARC, it's just gonna be a stop gap till I decide which direction I want to go in as far as intercooler is concerned​. Not sure how I feel about vmounts but I understand the limitations of stock mounts where the ducting is concerned. I don't really plan to make a lot of power on this motor. Honestly 300 would be fine with me.

my next concern is how I want to rewire the fuel pump.
Probably getting the Supra TT pump, but not sure how I should wire it
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Old Apr 21, 2017 | 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by #slevin
I already have the ARC, it's just gonna be a stop gap till I decide which direction I want to go in as far as intercooler is concerned​. Not sure how I feel about vmounts but I understand the limitations of stock mounts where the ducting is concerned. I don't really plan to make a lot of power on this motor. Honestly 300 would be fine with me.

my next concern is how I want to rewire the fuel pump.
Probably getting the Supra TT pump, but not sure how I should wire it
My RE SMIC with ducting still heat soaked and the IAT was a bit on the high side. With my setup of stock fuel injectors, upgraded fuel pump, rewired fuel pump, intake, smic, downpipe, highflow cat, exhaust, efini y-pipe, race plug and race wire, tuned on the PFC at 11psi I made 280whp SAE corrected. You'll probably reach 300rwhp with 12 with no cats. I'm not sure will the ARC SMIC will suffice.

BTW I rewired my fuel pump at the fuse box.
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Old Apr 21, 2017 | 03:52 PM
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Good to know, I'll probably stick to 10 psi with this cooler. Did your rewire maintain the variable speed drive? Or is that moot with the PFC
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Old Apr 21, 2017 | 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by #slevin
Good to know, I'll probably stick to 10 psi with this cooler. Did your rewire maintain the variable speed drive? Or is that moot with the PFC
At the fuse box rewire it shouldn't affect the variable speed driver. Basically you are changing the power source from the entire body harness to directly to the battery.

I believe there is a write up on it by dale clark.
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Old Apr 26, 2017 | 06:04 PM
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Ok so I've got an issue with cold start. It seems to misfire and run poorly when cold. It runs fine when hot. I've tested and adjusted the TPS and I just tested the map sensor at 0" and idle, both pass the test (when warm) also I've replaced the water temp sensor and my engine harness is new from Mazda. No CEL or codes, just a rough running COLD car. I believe it is more likely fuel related. What inputs does the factory ECU use to control fuel while in warmup?
my plugs are new, new wires, and relatively new leading coil. All the coils pass the resistance test per FSM. Any ideas?
Also, I have the triumph fast acting IAT
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Old Apr 26, 2017 | 06:10 PM
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Is this a new development? Pretty common with FD to behave like this. Could be leaky/old injectors, ISC, O2 sensor. But, mostly FDs just don't like to start cold. One reason why mazda included the AWS feature. Search and you'll see lots of cold start threads.
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Old Apr 26, 2017 | 06:22 PM
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My O2 and primary injectors are new. I'll pull the isc off and do the resistance checks and clean it. When searching for cold start I couldn't find much that was relevant. How should I enter that into the search function for best results?
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Old Apr 26, 2017 | 06:44 PM
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advanced search -> search titles only ->3rd gen specific -> "cold start"

or, on google: "site:www.rx7club.com cold start"
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Old Apr 27, 2017 | 11:26 AM
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I would also check the AWS solenoid and possibly the thermo wax. Those do correlates to cold start idle.
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