Where is the fuel pressure sensor in the system? Just realized that wasn't in the description of it all above.

Skeese

The sensor is on the 1/8 npt port on the Aeromotive FPR at the end of the secondary rail. I have the same set up on my Integra too.

If you have a spare fuel pressure sensor or gauge, try tee'ing it into a fuel feed line before the fuel rails (ideally near the fuel tank before fuel filters). Knowing the pressure near the fuel tank should help identify if the problem is in the series rails or inside the fuel tank (pump voltage or leak between the pump and the bulkhead). If you don't have a spare sensor, try moving your original sensor and extending the wiring using some spare wire.

Good luck, and I'm encouraged to hear the drivability is good with the DBW throttle. What primary injectors do you have, and how lean can it idle when warm?

I actually did order a set up so I could do some mechanical readings, but I just tore down the suspension for a bushing and coilover job so it's gonna be about a week or so before I get hard data. Holley has some good options for tying in to AN fittings and stuff. Greetings from the other side of the mountain, I'm in Eugene! lol. I have the ID 1050x primaries and they idle just like my 550cc side feeds did at 12.5AFR. I have yet to try to run any leaner just because I know that it works and it's working great for my stock port application. I might tinker with it, but the off throttle recovery is great and on throttle stuff from an idle feels great. I would highly recommend the 1050x if you are looking at ditching those prehistoric side feeds

Currently in the middle of installing a set of Tein Street Advanced coilovers on the car and it turns out all four of my OEM struts were absolutely trashed and don't have the ability to rebound whatsoever LOL. I also am using the SuperPro bushing kit and all went smoothly for the machine shop to press in all of the bushings and they appeared to do an excellent job which is awesome, but the bushings I thought were for the rear lower control arm that connects to the subframe is actually the bushing set for the differential...SO I had to order the bushing for the control arm and because my diff seals are shot, I figured I might as well get those 4.44 gears to upgrade from my 3.9 gears since the EFR spools in 5th gear down way too low and low down torque in the 2k rpm range is not good for the engine. So the diff is getting ripped out for new gears and seals and then hopefully I can put everything back together, but you never know since cars are always a can of worms lol.

Oh wow it's been a while since I've done an update.
First thing is first
MY FUEL PRESSURE PROBLEM WAS 100% MY SENSOR
I routed a long hose to a mechanical gauge and it held rock solid fuel pressure like it is supposed to. So now when I can get a socket to put in my new R7420 spark plugs, I can head off to the dyno!

Secondly, I now have black Enkei RPF1s running 17x8 square and 235 width Direzza Z3 tires. I wanted Hankook RS4s, but they're on back order for a hecking year. All bushings have been replaced and my diff no longer leaks. Paired with the new coilovers and a custom alignment, the thing handles like a dream. My fender height is a smidge above 25 inches to allow me to drive on to our lift without the need for a jack. It also has toe in just a smidge all around and 1.2 and like 1.3 negative front and rear camber respectively. This is a mild alignment and works really well with my driving style and the street.

That's wild about the fuel pressure sensor, what brand was it and how old? I recently installed an oil pressure sensor and tested the accuracy by feeding it regulated air and comparing the reading against the mechanical gauge on the air compressor.

I think 17" rims are a good idea, since they can still have some sidewall to them. How does the ride quality with the coilovers compare to the stock suspension? Also yes, greetings from the other side of the mountain. I really enjoy driving that pass, I like how green everything is on your side.

Funny thing is that it's a brand new sensor from Haltech themselves so I'm not sure if it got clogged or if something is off with my wiring somehow to where just the fuel pressure sensor circuit is messed up. It's a strange thing to witness, but at least I don't have to worry about fuel demands for my desired power level lol.

After driving my dad's CTR and from having 18s on the car when I bought it, the 17s are much more enjoyable of an experience imo. The new suspension soaks up bumps a lot better and I haven't really noticed much stiffness change between spring rates which is really nice. It's a heck of a lot more responsive than it was in every aspect. It's a lot more different than the FWD driving style I am use too but overall it drives exactly like I need it to on the street. I would really love to take it to a hill climb or get back out on the track just to see how it is at really high speeds.

That's awesome to see another Oregonian! The mountains are always a spectacular drive as is the coastal highway!

Well, two steps forward, one step back, I guess. I got a socket made up to fit the new spark plugs and the plugs themselves work great, but I'm having what I believe is a spark issue and without anything but my butt dyno and EGT gauge for diagnosis so far, I think I've narrowed it down fairly far. During cruise, my EGT on my front rotor drops 300 degrees F compared to the rear rotor and it will intermittently spike back up to match the rear rotor whenever it wants too. I believe it's a spark issue as an injector not firing would cause zero EGTs at all compared to 1300F. So it looks like I have a coil pack failing on the front rotor, a spark plug wire that's not clipped on all the way (Possible as my wires don't like clipping on the plugs very nicely), or we have just a fine and dandy wiring issue caused by myself.

I find it hard to believe that one of these coil packs would fail intermittently at 3ms dwell on direct fire so I believe it's probably a wire issue personally so we shall see. When I pulled the old plugs, the leading plug had a trace of fuel on it too so that's probably where I'll start as it was doing this right before I swapped plugs.

Turns out there was no issue and I believe it might have been intermittent EGT wiring or something.

ON TO THE GOOD ISH NEWS
The car hit the dyno today and it made 390whp and 340 torque at...20psi...
This is far from what I expected with this car as it climbs like it's supercharged. I wish I could share the dyno graph as it's a very odd one and quite the opposite of what you usually see on these turbos. Aimed and hit about 10.8AFR through the pull with the water meth for safety purposes. Somehow the Haltech base map was what made MBT so I didn't have to touch it at all which was odd to me so it was just add boost and play around with fueling til it was happy. None of it really made sense, but I gave what the car wanted. Overall I'm happy with the power and happy that it was able to make it through the dyno!

Just got a Photobucket account again, so let's see how this update goes!
Here's the dyno plot. I have played with the wastegate duty cycle down low and it does make peak torque sooner than the graph shows. Sometimes the nerves from trying to keep your car from exploding makes you forget the simple things lol

https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds

Here's it on the dyno

https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds

I had to return a PFS boost gauge to Turbojeff. Yes his car is still around and running in case anyone was wondering lol

https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds

Sooooo yeah, that's how the car is looking and performing as of now. For spirited driving in tight curves, I think the power level is a little absurd, but it is nice for longer flowing, high speed sections. When it sees track time, it will most likely be detuned down to 12psi just to restore balance to the car. As of now, I did a pull and popped off a vacuum cap so it's idling at 2.5k rpms so I gotta fix that before driving it again lol. I also ordered Hawk HP+ pads as the Stoptech pads are just not enough to stop the car at a reasonable rate and the HP+ on my Integra is such a perfect balance between cold bite and hard braking.

Exact same experience with the Stoptechs. Loved em on the E28, don't love them on the FD when cold. They are actually much better once you get some heat in them, so you may want to try that.

You'll probably love the HP+ all around but they throw off some hellacious dust.

I had the Stoptechs on my Integra too at some point and it never felt like it was far above what the OEM pads were like. They handle heat very well which I do like, but they just feel lacking compared to other pads. When I went to ORP with the 7, they were enough to slow the car down at a reasonable rate and I never felt any brake fade, nor did they warp my blanks. Overall I'm excited to have better pads that can keep me safer in most cases. I wish I could take both of my cars to every event so I could get seat time in both of them lol

Well, an interesting turn of events has happened. I sold the 7.

I know it seems like a very sudden turn of events, but the matter of the fact is that I simply don't fit in this car and I could never get to the point to where I was comfortable enough to drive the hell out of the car. Being 6'2" in a touring simply doesn't work. With the stock seats, my knees cram up against the wheel and with the pole position, I am too far back and have to be at full limb extend to drive the car and neither are practical whatsoever. So now the car was sold to a fellow around Olympia, Washington. It also turns out the motor had 105psi on all faces so that really helped in getting a good sale and I'm actually super happy about that considering I learned to tune on that car.

Turbojeff also put his CYM for sale and I am fairly certain his is sold as well. Sometimes a car just doesn't fit the bill of what you want/need and that's perfectly fine as long as you had great ownership.

I learned so many things over the 5 years of ownership on the car and I wouldn't take it back for the world. Knowledge and skill building is priceless.

So here's the real kicker. Surely I can't just sell a car and sit on the money, right? Absolutely correct!
I've been eyeballing 911s for years now and I finally got the chance to drive a Cayman and a 911 and it was really an eye opener. I fit in those cars, they're comfortable, and they are an absolute HOOT to drive. I picked up a 2007 Carrera S with 30k miles on it from Seattle last weekend and have been loving the experience since and I can't wait for the roads to dry out so I can romp on the car.

While the drive to selling the 7 was an extremely emotional thing, this next journey should be a wonderful experience and should open so many new doors to life.

I'll probably still creep around the forums, but I wish you all the best in your rotary experiences! With that, I'll be signing off on this build thread.

Brap on with love,
Dillon

I don't blame you man, best of luck! I'm sure we'll be in touch at some point on something relative! Have fun!

Skeese