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Newt Gomez' Old Man Rx-7 Build
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As a car enthusiast, my dream has always been to own an FD Rx-7 as I'm sure it's everyone's dream. I got my first car when I was 17 which is an 01 Acura Integra which is still my number one favorite car I own.
Attachment 617319 In the middle of summer, I told my friend if he could find me a 7 that was under 10k, that I would go look at it. So he did...and I brought this 93 touring model home for a loan of 7k. This is what it looked like when I first bought it in August 2015 Attachment 617320 It had cluster issues so I went ahead and bought a speedhut set of gauges and I don't regret it one bit! On top of that, it boosted a 5-8 pattern. Only bits it came with were the awful wheels, a Greddy BOV, hks twin filters, Apexi N1 exhaust system and a nameless downpipe. The best part was that the body has 124,000 miles on the odometer, but the motor is a 10k mile Mazda reman!. I also have a suspicion that it came with an aftermarket clutch because it grabs like a stage 3 and shifts like it has a light flywheel. The car has also been manual swapped so it has random auto bits of wiring. Another plus is that it came with a brand new engine harness that was put in by Mazda which means it's solid for another 100k! I also had to do away with the chrome wheels so I painted them Attachment 617321 As of now, I am waiting on my injectors to be cleaned so I can put everything back together and hopefully all of the gaskets, vacuum hoses, and solenoids I replaced will work a lot better and hopefully it hits 10psi of boost! Engine 3" Downpipe 2.5" resonator Adaptronic Select PNP AEM V2 meth injection running -20F windshield washer fluid Apexi N1 Exhaust HKS Filters Greddy BOV Emissions BOP Kit Metal AST Efini Y pipe FPD Removal Pineapple Racing idler pulley ACT HD street/strip clutch ACT lightweight flywheel Exterior Foose One Piece Wheels Toyo Proxes Misc Odyssey PC680 battery relocated to the trunk Speedhut gauges A pair of phoenix gold 8" subs Alpine 500w amp Sparco shift knob End goals are to have around 400hp right where my dads MKIV Supra is at with an EFR 8374 turbo powering it. Current power level is 290whp on 12psi |
Good score for a great price... AWFUL wheels even painted. Maybe stick to all black or find a good set of cheap OEM wheels. JMO.
Good luck with the build. I too started with Honda's, and quickly left them for RWD cars! |
nice find
So when you plan on going single? |
The only reason I keep these wheels around is because I just don't like the OEM style and any wheels I want are out of my short term budget. Only good thing about the wheels is that they're 10" wide in the back and 8.5" in the front and they fit PERFECT with the stock fenders.
As for going single...it's gonna take longer than I want it to take because I was mid motor build for my Integra when I bought the 7 and I'm trying to get this driveable and more reliable so when the teg goes in for surgery, I will have a nice boosted car to drive. Also it's just going to be a nice street car with a few extras here and there. Going single will possibly happen late 2016 or some time in 2017. Also my injectors are being sent back so there's a small chance it will start up mid new years party time. |
Hey man! Congrats on the buy, I just got my first FD as well. It's a great feeling to own a piece of automotive history!
Anyway, you have enough mods to be dangerous, be careful with that engine. Read through this thread... https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/rx-7-woes-1093844/ This was just a week ago. Running the stock computer with those mods is risky. Look into a Power FC ASAP! Good luck! Nick |
That's what I figured. My tuner has also recommended the Power FC and I feel like that's a good route to go. I might buy it with tax money this year if they are as good to me as last year was. I was also looking in to buying or making an exhaust restrictor to help with the boost but I was curious if that would actually help prevent blowing the motor or not.
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Originally Posted by newtgomez
(Post 12009022)
That's what I figured. My tuner has also recommended the Power FC and I feel like that's a good route to go. I might buy it with tax money this year if they are as good to me as last year was. I was also looking in to buying or making an exhaust restrictor to help with the boost but I was curious if that would actually help prevent blowing the motor or not.
You want to do everything in your power to reduce the temperatures in every facet. Better cooling, better exhaust flow, better ducting, whatever you can. Do the Power FC dude...do it. :icon_tup: Nick |
So it turns out that my injectors showed up yesterday! Fuel lines are back together and the system is primed with new hoses and no fuel leaks! I now have the ignition coils and the filler neck to put back on before putting back on the uim, throttle body, and intercooler. It also seems that my rats nest was plugged in the wrong way since my turbo control and charge control solenoids were a white and yellow connector pre teardown which means that needs to be fixed asap! Hopefully she fires up when everything is back together. Also, I replaced the spark plugs and the old ones were a 7 and 9 heat range where my new ones are hotter at 6 and 8. The spark plug at T2 was rusty at the tip so its a good thing they were replaced!
Since I'm new to the ways of the dorito, I would assume that it's okay these plugs look rich and slightly oily but that's just what logic says to me. Apparently photobucket is having a rough time updating pictures so I will post some whenever I update next. |
The car is finally back together! WOOOO!!!!! Now I just need to wait for the permatex grey to cure on the oil filler neck, and then I can start it up tomorrow! I'm pretty excited but extremely nervous at the same time but for now I will just sit back and legally drink for the first time on new years!
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Originally Posted by newtgomez
(Post 12009515)
The car is finally back together! WOOOO!!!!! Now I just need to wait for the permatex grey to cure on the oil filler neck, and then I can start it up tomorrow! I'm pretty excited but extremely nervous at the same time but for now I will just sit back and legally drink for the first time on new years!
Good luck dude! Nick |
To be honest, I almost never go above 4k rpms in my cars because I like being gentle on them.
Tried to start the car this morning and...nothing. It's cranking just fine and I can hear the pulses of the rotors and I can smell fuel so I think it's flooded. It's also really cold and not being started in almost 4 months doesn't help either. So I'm gonna try to troubleshoot some things and pray for the best. I might have to ask for some help from some local guys if I can find some. |
pull plugs, clean them or get new ones, put a little two stroke in from the the spark plug hole and see if it will start.
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I pulled it in my warm shop and pulled the EGI fuse and gave it a few cranks, put it back in and it sounded like it wanted to fire a lot better. Pulled the fuse one more time and repeated the process and BOOM! It sputtered twice and came to life! Idled at about 1100 until the thermostat opened and it sat around 185F for coolant temps and 19inHg of vacuum.
Things I noticed: Idle sits at 500rpm when fully warm (Not good because my idle adjustment screw is broken because of one of the two POs) Gauges acted like they didn't receive enough voltage because the fuel tank is 3/4 full and it was reading about 1/3 full and bouncing up and down between the two during the drive (Time for alternator upgrade???) There was a sound around the passenger side right about the firewall where it sounded like some liquid was moving around. I checked for leaks visually and found nothing. Most noticeable when moving throttle and moving slowly. There is a throttle hesitation when warm and driving which it also did before the teardown and removal of emission parts. It also does it when idling in place and free revving. Dashpot is also bad because it goes in fast and comes out fast. On a positive note, this was the first time I felt the twins and it was so smooth and they spool so fast it's mind blowing! It does over boost so I will not be getting on it hard anymore until it's tuned. (Had to do it to see if solenoids and turbo system was working properly) |
Progress! The biggest hurdle is past. Now get a power FC and take it from there!
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If I see one for sale, it will be bought!
On a better note I added a ground to where the throttle body and uim met and my idle went even lower and varied between 250rpm and 500rpm (Very scary stuff!) But I found out that idle is actually adjusted (For the most part) by the flathead screw on the bottom of the throttle body and a few turns out from all the way in and it now sits at a healthy 750rpms at idle! The hesitation feels like a dead spot in low throttle (Hesitates when you get on the throttle when upshifting, free revving, and driving at lower rpms) so I will try to figure out how to mess with the TPS and fix that because it drives me nuts when it bucks! |
Glad you got the idle sorted out.
There are several Power FC's for sale right now on these boards. Several of which have been for sale for a number of weeks. You could probably get a nice deal on one... Good luck! Nick |
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So on saturday? I texted my friends seeing if they wanted to do a photo shoot and only one of them was able to make it unfortunately. Damn people and their busy lives!
Anyways, here are some pics that I took. They are raw and unedited. Attachment 616881 This was my buddys turbo mr2. It has a long backstory to this car but basically someone hit his dad while he was driving his old one and merged a jdm spec mr2 and rebuilt everything from the ground and back up. He is also a damn good autocross driver and whoops on my teg every event... Attachment 616882 Just a nice shot of my cluster. The sun was at a weird angle and it kinda blocked out my Pip Boy bobble head on my dash... Attachment 616883 Sexy side shot! I just love those body lines! Attachment 616884 Cell phone pic engine shot because I needed one Attachment 616885 The dirty spark plugs I replaced! I also got to hook up my subwoofers and damn I was impressed! These two 8s are putting out more power than I was putting to my old phoenix gold elite 12! The biggest problem I am having now is choosing a nice wheel...CCW classics look good but are damn expensive from what it looks like and I couldn't find a BBS wheel that looked good. Enkei also didn't have any good options because I don't want the same NT03s that my dad has on his supra. |
Are those Speed Hut gauges? They look great.
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Yes, they are! I dremeled out where the old gauges went and kept the stock wiring so all the lights and stuff still worked. The fuel gauge is now a boost/vacuum gauge, the oil and coolant gauges are in the same location, the tach is still in the middle, and the sattelite speedo has the fuel gauge on it. They were really simple to install but the hours it took to dremel all that plastic made it a grueling process. But it looks OEM and they are white in the daytime and the back lights on them are blue!
Stock gauges were okay but aftermarket made so much more sense and the replaceability of the new parts are so much cheaper! Well worth the 800 I spent! |
Do you have any photos or how-to on how your wired it up? I have been wanting to do this with my AEM gauge to get them off my pillar and get rid of the pointless Oil Pressure/Coolant Temp gauges. You can shoot me a PM if you dont want to clutter this up.
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Subscribed for updates
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HOLY CRAP I CHANGED THE FUEL FILTER!!!!!!!!!!!
I changed it and it took me 3 hours even using fuel line pliers and pb blaster...I don't think the previous owner changed the fuel filter in the 10 years he owned it! I'm honestly surprised it even ran! Now the take offs and shifting are wayyyyy smoother and wayyy less jolty! It's way more enjoyable to drive now! Another thing I noticed is that it has a slightly lumpy idle at around 720rpm when there is no electrical load, but when I hit the brake pedal, turn on the lights, or do anything electrical, the idle smooths out around 850rpms. Real nice. Shifting is still a little jolty but I think it's possibly caused by an aftermarket clutch with a stock flywheel. It shifts as slow as my civic, but has the stiff clutch like my dads supra which I prefer having a heavy clutch AND a light flywheel. I still think I should have the TPS looked at and now that a big problem is fixed, an Apexi Power FC is definitely in my future this year. But for next week, the twin wastegates go in my teg! |
Any more pics of the gauge cluster and process?
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Oh yeah, I also recorded an exhaust clip with my cell phone...I had my camera in the passenger seat but didn't want to set up just to do a few seconds of recording.
This is the youtube channel my friend, brother, and I share for basically everything we do. Video game commentary and car stuff is what it consists of right now. Feel free to take a look at the other things. |
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Had to rip these off of my instagram because these were the only pictures I took of the process.
Attachment 616633 How they came in the box. They come with pretty good instructions to follow. The hard part is finding the tach signal and fuel level sender for the gauges. Standard 52mm? oil pressure, coolant temp, and boost gauges 4 inch Tach and 4 inch Satellite speedo/ fuel level gauge. Cost around 800 bucks. The main reason I picked these gauges was because they have nice coarse threads and a lock nut for the back sides of them. I didn't use the lock rings iirc and they stay perfectly in place due to them actually being threaded in to the clear and black plastic cluster holder. Attachment 616634 As you can see, the three 52mm gauge holes are done being cut and screw in nice and tight! Attachment 616635 Here you can see how they sit nice and flush and in the OEM location! Attachment 616636 Here's an awful pic in my shop of how they look in the dark. They are actually really blue in the night time! That's all the pictures I have from the Speedhut fitting. You basically have to cut a hole and fit them in. Just really time consuming is all! |
Looking good. Who do you plan on having your car tuned by?
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I am having a tough time deciding between mounting the gauges behind the factory lens or if drilling the big holes and using the speedhut trim rings like you did.
It's a tough decision. Did you have to modify the black front cover that normally goes over the factory gauge lens? |
I am most likely having it tuned at Garage 808 here in Eugene because they have done excellent work on my teg, my dads Supra, and my brothers truck.
I did have to trim the hood if that's what you are talking about. If the trim rings arent used like most people do, I don't believe you have to trim the hood. |
Originally Posted by newtgomez
(Post 12015447)
I am most likely having it tuned at Garage 808 here in Eugene because they have done excellent work on my teg, my dads Supra, and my brothers truck.
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I know they tuned Leo (Clark?) red R1 when it was sold to Tanner and they must have done a good job because I never heard anything bad about it. It was also tuned on a Power FC. I know they also did a local rx8 and I'm sure have done a few more but I understand where you are coming from. They really specialize in Hondas and I would honestly rather have a rotary specialist tune mine but I haven't heard of any that exist in Oregon.
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Originally Posted by newtgomez
(Post 12015644)
I know they tuned Leo (Clark?) red R1 when it was sold to Tanner and they must have done a good job because I never heard anything bad about it. It was also tuned on a Power FC. I know they also did a local rx8 and I'm sure have done a few more but I understand where you are coming from. They really specialize in Hondas and I would honestly rather have a rotary specialist tune mine but I haven't heard of any that exist in Oregon.
Well keep us updated and whenever you get yours done maybe I'll go down there and have them tune mine as well. |
So I hard wired my fuel pump to the battery and the car ran slightly better. Smoother shifts and slightly better running but I feel like the ignition coils need to be replaced just for safe measure and I still believe that my TPS is out of adjustment or something is out of wack. It also feels like my motor mounts or something related to motor or tranny placeholders need to be replaced because there is noticeable bucking when driving at certain points. It's hard to explain but that's what my gut says. Not really a huge update but I hope I can figure out these problems so I can get a tune.
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So I noticed the car ran miles better after the fuel pump re wire, but it still had issues on deceleration and still bucked from time to time. So I finally tried out adjusting the TPS and it drives really smoothly now! Before I buy a Power FC, I want to change out my ignition coils and do my brakes because my pads are right around 30% and the front rotors are really warped! Only weird thing now is the idle when there are no accessories turned on is really rough. It's just below 750rpms when accessories are off, and an even pulsing 900rpms when you turn the lights or AC on.
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I noticed some oil that got wet from todays rain in front of where I park my car so I decided to look under my car and there is no oil on the ground...Either someone else has an oil leak, or it just shot out a bunch right before I parked my car in the garage and decided to not leak when I parked it. I'm really curious where this mystery oil is coming from because it has not burnt anything since it was put back together...I know that the oil pan sweats just a little bit of oil but not enough to be a big concern. I'm considering pulling the motor just so I can clean it up, port my wastegates, and reseal my pan but I would like to know if it actually has a problem or not before I make such a big choice.
Everything runs great but at 1500rpms + or - 200 rpms, it bucks like a mother effer which leads me to believe I have crappy mounts (Also another thing I could do if I pull the motor). It's almost like it only does it at that specific range because of harmonic vibrations from the drivetrain and such. |
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Just had the sickest weekend I have had in a long time! First off, today I got to race my racecar at the local autocross with my friends! My buddies GTR and my buddies MR2 both beat me by half a second but there isn't much I can do about having FWD lol.
Attachment 614624 Anyways! On to dorito news! I finally bought a gallon and a 16oz bottle of Red Line premix!...about 100 dollars later... On friday there was a car meet and my buddy in his GTR showed up, a mk3 and mk4 supra showed up, I got swarmed by a ton of people in my FD (It's a nice change getting recognition for a car even if it's not the one you have poured your literal blood, sweat, and tears in to)....and then some thing happened that I really didn't think would ever happen... Attachment 614625 THE LEGENDARY TURBOJEFF SHOWED UP!!!!!!! It was so nice meeting another person who has an FD! I get tired of people asking me if the FD comes with twin turbos and it was a nice change. Made me realize how bad of condition my car is actually in lol. I have been watching horsepower academy videos on how to tune and have been deeply considering tuning my car myself with the adaptronics PnP standalone unit. Everything looks pretty straight forward but I won't be tuning until I get my alignment and brakes fixed at the very least so that will give me tons of time to do research! |
I finally got around to getting my tax money which means that my order of an Adaptronics select ecu has been placed through IRP! I also received my Innovate mtx-l wideband in the mail a week ago and just received my aluminum defrost vent from the group buy. Taking a term off from school was the best thing I ever did! I plan on porting my wastegates and getting new exhaust gaskets and re sealing my oil pan before the ecu goes in. It's nice to finally get some needed progress on this car!
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Eugene had their first cars and coffee today so I decided to take the 7 and watch some mustangs kill some crowds! Lots of neat 60s european cars were there. Tons of subarus and miatas. Pretty much the usual for the area but it was fun talking to friends!
Attachment 612558 Decided that we shouldn't let the sunshine go to waste and headed up highway 58 to the Dexter reservoir! Met a guy up there with a bridgeport 12a in an FB. He was a pretty cool guy. Left to right is an NA miata, R32 GTR, myself, and another NA miata. Attachment 612559 And I finally got around to spending an hour ish cussing and putting on my LRB group buy defrost vent. Looks great and is well made. Its just a pain working in that area and the retaining clips have to be in the perfect spot for the vent to be screwed in to. Attachment 612560 |
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My face basically says it all. Finally got the motor pulled and started around 4:30pm and I got done at midnight. I had no one to help me which made it way harder than it should have been. The driver side motor mount caught on the subframe and made it a real PITA to lift the motor out. After probably an hour of lowering and raising and prying and getting under the car it finally came loose...then I fought the downpipe catching on some of the tunnels bent tin metal. Whoever messed with pulling out the motor and tranny the first (and possibly second) time really messed that tunnel metal up. They also did a shotty job with the sensor wiring on the tranny. Also, when I pulled the midpipe, it had a badge that said Ichiba. Is that some sort of rare part I have never heard of? Things to replace before even looking at the motor and tranny: Alternator plug pigtails (Broke on me when I went to pull it out of the way) Driveshaft seal on the end of the tranny Permatex grey for the oil pan Complete exhaust system gaskets A/C lines that hook up to the compressor (Leaked freon everywhere when I pulled the compressor out of the way) Replace my oil pressure sender Check clutch, flywheel, and rear main seal when pulling apart the tranny Replace slave cylinder just as a precaution Spark plugs to 7s and 9s Oil and coolant lines on the turbos Heater core hose on the driver side Center speaker gauge pod (Anyone know of any 3 hole 52mm pods?) One thing I noticed when pulling the ecu wires is that there was a control box on the back of the ecu and I have no idea if it was for the auto tranny or if it's for the ABS or SRS system. Can anyone think of anything that is usually overlooked when pulling a motor? I don't want to have to do this again until the motor goes out on me. |
Had some time to order some parts today!
New set of plugs Ignition wire sub harness Dual gauge pod for the center speaker (No more eyesore) Rotary double sensor egt gauge from Pineapple Racing Knock sensor because the old one won't stop leaking and it's driving me up a wall looking at it I have yet to start cleaning and tearing stuff apart due to time restrictions and because I want to film some of it and my friend has my camera. |
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So I pulled off my downpipe and one stud didnt come out because the nut free spun on the stud...So after about an hour of welding, heating, vice gripping, cussing, and grinding....I finally got the nut off and sent the downpipe off to get a bung welded in for my innovate wideband.
Then it got interesting! I pulled on my wastegate arms to see if they would move because they moved on my tegs turbo...No luck. They seem to be frozen in place. Then I started pulling off nuts that were all stuck on the studs...great... Then I finally pulled the turbos off of the exhaust manifold and set them on the ground and this is what I see.. Attachment 611754 Not good not bad from a distance...then I took a closer look... Attachment 611760 Attachment 611762 They're cracked all the way through!!!!! Not good...Then I go deeper in to the motor... Attachment 611763 Then I look at the OMP which is surrounded by oil I can only assume. Attachment 611764 Doesn't tell me a whole lot. Here are some shots of the engine. I partially cleaned off the spark plug side already. Attachment 611765 Attachment 611766 Then there were the exhaust ports... Attachment 611767 This pic you might be able to see it but the rotors are CAKED in carbon from having emissions on it before I got the car I assume...The apex seals and what I can see from the housings look like they're in perfect condition. No chips or wear spots anywhere inside of the motor. Attachment 611768 So now the two options are 1. Replace the twins and continue with my process 2. Get a turbo kit, go single, and never look back Any input would be appreciated. Also on a side note, the motor has no water, oil, or gas in it and will be sitting for a couple months to where I can figure this out so what precautions can I take to preserve my motor? |
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Got to enjoy some sun this weekend with my girlfriend and my Integra. It's pretty sad seeing the 7 all apart but I'll just have to face it that it will be my summer project. Anyways, I went to IFO in Woodburn and I'm pretty sure I spotted a member on my way out. The widebody kit looks so nice in person with the well taken care of paint. It's nice to see Rx7s with the rotary dream still going. There was a yellow first gen and a blue rx3 with a pineapple racing sticker on it that I took videos of and will post when I get around to it.
Attachment 611698 Overexposed picture but I kind of don't care about professional looking shots when I'm at a show. |
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Looks like I need to spend even more money on this car...the bills keep piling up the more I take apart! But it's such a good time to replace everything so why not!
Today, I hammered some of the sheet metal in the tunnel somewhat out of the way because one of the previous owners bent the metal when pulling the tranny at some time. I also cleaned off the subframe and some parts around it and decided that was enough for now. On a side note, I am debating taping off some of the engine bay and touching up some of it with black. Would any auto part store black be just fine for matching the paint, or should I just buck up and buy a couple cans of Brilliant Black? Attachment 611064 After dealing with the chassis, I finally got motivated to separate the tranny from the motor! That was by far the easiest separation I have ever done and that's most likely because it was out of the car and I could use an impact gun on all of the bolts! Attachment 611065 So from what I can tell, it looks like the clutch and possibly the tranny swap was done around 2003! Wow that was some time ago! Running a finger across the clutch and flywheel was bumpy from material so I think it's time for this clutch and flywheel to go bye bye! The markings on the clutch say DK which makes it seem like an exedy clutch but usually those are silver or purple from what I generally see. My guess would be some street ACT clutch that is sprung. Serial numbers also don't come up with anything when I go to google. Attachment 611066 Attachment 611067 Attachment 611068 Attachment 611069 Attachment 611070 Attachment 611071 Attachment 611072 This last one was a picture behind the flywheel. I expected a counterweight but it almost seems as if it's an OEM flywheel. There doesn't look to be a whole lot of leaking out of the rear main seal so I'm on the fence about replacing it. The flywheel will be replaced by a lightweight unit and a clutch good enough for 400hp. I could probably get by with a resurface but I am patient and don't cut corners. Anyways, cheers to more spending! |
Not much of an update since I went to Cabelas and bought a P90...OOPS! Lol.
My car is being moved around the farm from a storage bay to a smaller enclosed building in my dads backyard since we need the bay for seed storage. My friends went to move my car and found a dead mouse and a few maggots...greattttt... vacuumed everything out and cleaned the carpet where everything was at and am going to leave a cup of vinegar in the car until I put the motor back in a few months from now. It really sucks not being able to drive it during the sunniest time of the year. |
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My dad bought some stuff from sea foam and its supposed to be a lubricant and a cleaner. Well I used it on my stuck stud and it actually soaked through unlike PB Blaster, wd40, and freeze off. Another thing I used was a pipe wrench to give a lot of torque because my dad took the good pair of vice grips to work on his boat. The pipe wrench worked great! I never would have guessed to use one because I usually have great success with good vice grips. Hopefully this can help out other people with stud problems!
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Not much has happened with this car lately but I am NOT losing motivation! I have been slowly ordering everything I need and the two big expensive bits I have left to buy are the flywheel and the subharness that is all dirty. Everything else should be cheap to get I hope!
I bought an extreme pressure plate ACT sprung street/strip clutch which I am almost certain that it's the same clutch that was on it...The main reason I went with this clutch was because sprung clutches that aren't 6 or 3 puck are easy to drive which was my biggest concern. This clutch is apparently capable of 450 ftxlbs of torque which will be more than enough for my end goal of 400hp. MONEY SHOT!!!!! Attachment 609122 |
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Days go by and I can't stop thinking about this car and how it needs to be back together. Driving my racecar definitely helps but I need rotary noises back in my life!
So many parts have stock piled on my shelves and it's satisfting seeing replacement parts but emotionally devastating when the realization sets in... Enough about frilly emotions and bs no one cares about! I received my lightweight steel flywheel in the mail a while ago and these are always my favorite mod to do! Attachment 608388 I have also taken off the rust on the outside of my heat shields and have decided to paint them matte black since attempting a polish would mean they would just rust again. I also bought some coarse sanding discs that should break down the aluminum parts better than 120 grit on a sander! I'm probably going to mess with more polishing this weekend since I finally get saturdays off again. Cheers to more modding! |
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So after spending a whole day trying to polish one part...I'm just gonna finish the few other pieces I started and call it good because that process takes WAY too long!
I started to tear in to the back of the motor which was actually really easy...until the new rear stat gear o-ring, rear main seal, counterweight, and act flywheel were installed...All of this stuff was easy until I decided to tackle the pilot bearing...I have spent around 8 hours trying to get it out with bread, grease, towels, etc and haven't had any luck...So I ordered the specialty tool which will be here thursday! This is where I am at currently. I am replacing parts slowly but surely a few hours a day after work. Attachment 607729 So out with the old dirty knock sensor and in with the new! Attachment 607730 Attachment 607731 Out with the old ignition coil sub harness and in with the new harness that doesn't use a ground wire! Attachment 607732 I basically just have to wait for the pilot bearing tool before everything gets put back together and then when the motor is in the car, I have to replace the subharness I screwed up and wire in my wide band and pyrometer so they will have power to them when I install the wideband sensor and egt probes. Attachment 607733 Rear stat gear was in okay condition. I noticed there is a flathead screw that looks like it was mangled and have no idea what to think of it... Side note: I am using the dual probe EGT sensor from pineapple racing and was curious if anyone knew how to install the probes in to the cast manifold before the turbos...Am I correct to just assume drill a hole and tap it and screw in the probes? |
EGT Probe Install on Stock Twins!
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So I took off my uim to find I need to mess with the primary fuel rail to get it to stop leaking from the fittings that connect to it. I only did this because it looked like my lim leaked a little oil and Im really glad it did!
So aside from that, I put in my exhaust studs, egt probes, and the dirty cast manifold! Attachment 607702 I started out by mounting the manifold on the block and then the turbos marking where everything needed to be and then used three drill bits to work my way up to the needed size for the 1/8-27 NPT tap. Then I tapped the holes and double checked everything. The secondary port is easier to do than the primary because of space restrictions. Secondary tapped and probed! Attachment 607703 Attachment 607704 Then the primary! Both probes end up being basically right on the flanges. Attachment 607705 Attachment 607706 I used anti seize even though it's a lubricant, I figured I couldnt go wrong with it. The threads were really hard to do and I could only get the adapter so far before it felt like I was gonna break something. The bottom of the adapter can be seen from the inside of the manifold. Extra pic to show secondary almost in place. I had to bend back the heat shield but nothing serious. Attachment 607707 |
I finally got a half day to work on this nightmare of a project and decided to tackle the LIM gasket which really wasn't that bad knowing all I had to do was take out the ignition coil bolts and the bolts holding in the rats nest (Never thought I would have to go back there again). I replaced a vacuum line and used teflon paste on my fuel fittings. I really can't wait to go single and fix the mess down there.
After getting the UIM bolted back up, I proceeded to mess with the turbos a bit. Turns out there is build up in the coolant ports on my primary turbo so I should figure out a way to deal with that. I also did some mild porting of the wastegate hole. I imagine I'll have to get a restricting muffler to fix the boost creep but I'm not too worried about that. All in all, I'm really glad I took on this project even though I had a perfectly fine car before hand. I ordered the charging harness from Atkins Rotary on sunday so hopefully that will get here around the time I have all of the other stuff prepared to get back in the car! I can't wait to drive this car again! |
Just got word from Atkins that my harness has been shipped out today which means things are gonna happen!!!!!
Unfortunately, I still have work that needs to be done and I am getting over a sickness that doesn't want to go away... Things to do: -Install turbos -Buy exhaust gaskets -Install clutch, grease everything, install tranny -Replace the bad wiring harness -Wire in my gauges -Replace air conditioning o-rings -Replace turbo coolant lines -Put the motor back in -Re seal oil pan -???????????? -BRAP! ...call my insurance company So much to do with so little time! I can't wait to get her running again! |
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