little Update:

Ended up pulling the rear housing EGT bung off and sure enough the small little brass collar fit right on the bung and sunk down into the fastener. Re-installed it and now it's ready to go. Just need to do my switch panel now with the digital guages and wire them up. I'll get to that later.
I somehow lost one copper nut for my turbo to manifold stud so I'll have to get another one.

But I'm waiting for the following Items to come in:
Diff fluid
Friction Modifier
Trans gear oil
Motor Oil
Brake Fluid
Power Steering Fluid
Case of Pre-mix =-)
AEM Smart Coils and harness
Sake Bomb Plug wires
Full Function Engineering Trigger Wheel
Rywire Harness (modified TPS & Plug)
Innovate MTX-L Wideband & input cable for ECU
Boost Solenoid
Brake Booster push in adapter fitting
Advan TCiii 18x9.5 +45 (fronts)

Kind of a hefty list.....and a damn expensive one too. But the parts are necessary to get my girl running =-)

List of things to get done this weekend:

- If fluids are delivered I'll fill them all
- Bleed brakes
- Clutch
- Power Steering
-------------------------

- Modify Oil cooler brackets to mount them lower with less angle
- Pull Dash and Carpet
- Waste-Gate Vac-lines
- Get started on Body Harness
- Figure out Vacuum set-up
and anything else that I need to get done hah

Hey Aaron, doing something like this for your hood (The metal surround and such, not the oval pipes necessarily) and making the WG pipes flush would look pretty damn amazing, Have you thought of doing that? or do you just want to keep it as is?

http://photos.motoiq.com/MotoIQ/Feat..._JEF3980-L.jpg

^That looks like the Sierra-Sierra Evo nah? Thought about it..but I may end up getting another hood. I actually really like how they stick up a little bit. Being completely flush means if I get a different hood (vented) the stacks may sit lower than the hood...which would be like super heating my engine bay with one hell of a hot blow dryer haha.

Looked it up, yeah it is the Sierra-Sierra Evo.

I was more thinking about the metal surround to protect the hood more than anything else. I first saw something like this on a the RC212v, looked cool. A few GP bikes did this. Then I saw some ferraris and muscle cars too.

Didn't know how to explain it so I just googled side exhaust to get the idea across.

You're right about making it too flush, that would suck haha!

ohh yea the metal surround is pretty nice. I figured either way I'll wait to figure out whether or not i'll be running this hood or switching. =-)

You have a Carbon OEM style right now yeah? What are you looking at as a swap?

^ D-max =-)

Update:

Well this weekend I got to spend a little time working on the big list of things to do.

I started off with re-positioning my oil coolers. They were mounted yes..but they were angled outward and too high. I'd rather them be nice and flat and in the direct path of flow. It get's really hot out here in the desert so Ducting will be made for them as well as mounting 2 10" fans on the back side of the coolers. This should really help battle the heat in 100+ degree weather.
But I picked up a new front bumper from a buddy...thanks John!
Vertex vs Burnout...good thing is the oil coolers now sit nice and square with both bumpers
Attachment 680943
Before
Attachment 680944
After
Attachment 680945
Routing worked out nice
Attachment 680946
Under shot
Attachment 680947

Some new goodies came in. AEM boost solenoid and my Innovate MTX-L wideband.
Attachment 680948
Attachment 680949
Needed to dremel out my O2 bungs because the sensor wouldn't screw in all the way. Only took about 5 min for both with my carbide bit
Attachment 680950
thats better...
Attachment 680951
Then decided to pull the AC unit so I had a couple routes through the fire-wall. Routed the MTX-L through the top hole and installed a Nice new OEM rubber boot to replace the crappy old hammered one.
new vs old
Attachment 680952
installed
Attachment 680953

Also pulled all the carpet out. This was a decision maker for me... I originally wanted to pull the disgusting tan carpet, and get all the sound deadening out...which I was actually told that it was gone by the previous owner over 4 years ago when I got the car..but No...Its definitely all there. But After pulling the carpet I decided it would be much smarter just to get the car running, and then round 2 of the build will include Interior Paint, Cage etc. I may or may not work on the sound deadening. We'll see how I feel, but I do have a lot to get done just to get the car running. Plus I still have to decide if I'm going pink or black or something else on the interior...this will give me time to decide. First things first.. Get it running and drive =-)
Pulled the dash and ditched the AC unit. Not going to be running it...but I will have the Heater because I love heat in the cold..and the defroster is a MUST especially on cold track days
Carpet process
Attachment 680939
Attachment 680940
vac'd up some dirt and trash
Attachment 680941
and where I left off for the night
Attachment 680942

Even though I got some stuff done.. I still feel like I didn't get enough done. I am content with my progress though and I should be getting all my fluids which I'm looking forward to filling up the car with today. I have a big list of things to do..still need side skirts to complete the kit. ..........and waiting and waiting and waiting for parts. Going to pull the sound deadening under the dash Install the body harness and then install the dash. Looks like it'd be much easier to route while the dash is out of the way. Also, I think I'll be attending a meet this next month on the 23rd. My buddies from Pogi Fresh really want the car there and they offered to send a flat bed just to have the car there... so I said yes and whether it's running or not the car will be there =-) Shows really arent my thing but it'll be nice to do something with the car after all this time haha.

Coming along fast now!
Hey, in case I missed it, what is the part number for that quick connect mil spec connector at the firewall? I've seen companies such as ChaseBays sell them for $300, and then other sellers on eBay for $60, just curious if theres a big difference or a big mark up

bye one from ebay, there is no difference. Companies like Chase Bays buy them for around $40 and then mark them up. Make sure you use good terminals though. That is where the cost can add up.

also, expect to pay at least $100 for a good used crimp tool, or $300 - $400 for a new one.

The cheap ones are not authentic deutsch connectors, although, they probably work and function exactly the same.

I still do not understand the appeal of those bulkhead connectors though. Why have them?

I wasn't talking about non authentic ones. I got my authentic one for $55 from an electrical supply company. You can get them even cheaper on ebay used. There is a ton of electrical equipment removed from aircraft that go to the scrap yard for sale on ebay. Doesn't have to be name brand Deutsch to be on an aircraft, just needs to meet the mil-spec for whatever application it was on (which is typically more than enough for automotive requirements).

Why?, well there are 2 answers......
1. Why Not?
2. Some people like those types of connectors.

That's like asking, "why do you modify your FD?", or "Why do you like going to track days?"

Do you need to? no
Do you like to? yes

So is yours an authentic deutsch connector? Or another brand that still meets the MIL-Spec?

Did you purchase both the male and female end for $55 together? Are the pins extra?

I can certainly understand wanting one, but to me it just looks like you are expecting to pull the motor often:lol:. I guess it looks cool when the ABS is removed as well.


BTW, Collin, upadte your build thread, I know you are working on something:suspect:.

It's a rotary so that's a given :lol:

^Well I certainly don't plan on pulling it often....but it is a nice convienience not having to dis-connect all the connectors. Why did you go with wiggins clamps?...Necessary?..nahh..a nice convienience?..absolutely =-)

^ No, I needed Wiggins clamps:nod::lol:. It is all personal preference. But I never have to worry about a coupler coming off at the track or when I am pushing 25+ psi on E-85.


I guess it is a slight convenience. there is only two plugs on the ECU that have to be removed though. You will still need to remove your EGT's though, what about your water temp gauge and oil temp gauge? Are those on a separate harness?

Well a little update with the dealings with my Differential and YARMIN DRIVESHAFTS. I called and talked to the owner mike and told him what happened. He said to come in the next day. He didn't argue with me or anything when I got there but I knew something was up because he wouldn't look me directly in the eyes. He said "hey I apologize about the bolts not being torqued correctly and here's some money for your time." The guy gave me $60 bucks..and said "we cool?" I looked at him...took the money and walked out. So pretty much he over-charged me 160 dollars because i paid 258, even though I was quoted 130-180..when shops are charging 100 bucks to do the same service all day long. Then the diff is incorrectly installed, the cover bolts are hardly finger tight, and he has the nerve to give me 60 bucks? Pfft what a joke. I guess I can't complain because it's 60 bucks I didn't have before..but I will never go back to Yarmin Driveshafts again. And I will continue to let everyone possible know about what kind of work they do. I never recieved a written estimate which is required by law, and he never called me to tell me he changed the original quote...which again is required by law.

I'm going to purchase my own guage and tool and learn how to set backlash on my own for now on. Once again...the Professional Shop lets me down. This is why I chose to do as much as possible on my own. Not saying there aren't good shops out there and good people who do honest quality work. But it is sad that the automotive industry is littered with Garbage shops and people who do Crap work and cheap people to make a quick extra buck.

Anyways Small Small Update:

Well I'd like to say that I wish I had good news but I kinda had a bad experience with FRS sport as well. Last week I ordered 324 dollars worth of oils/gear oils/pre-mix/friction modifier/PS fluid and Brake fluid from them. Well it didn't show up on sat when it was supposed to but i figured it was a heavy load so maybe it got held up and it would be here monday.. well it didn't show up yesterday although I got confirmation via e-mail saying the order went through. Now I originally went through FRS sport on another website Zilv**.com because they had all the fluids I needed in stock and usually they offer discounts to forum members. Well...the associate I talked to gave me a promo code and everything...btu when I entered it it changed my total a whole 20 cents? lol. I asked him about it and he said it was a mix up...so he cancelled my order and did it again...and again it went down the same amount haha. So i was like..whatever. At least it'll all come together. Well when it didn't come yesterday I called... the guy said it hadn't shipped yet...so I was like... well why not? And he said all the idimitsu products weren't in stock and they don't know when they'll come in. So I was polite...but I said.. well when was someone going to contact me about this? he didn't reply and all he said was that he can ship the other stuff and refund me the amount for the idemitsu products. Which defeats the whole point of me ordering from one place... So the guy said now they can ship the products they have in stock.. But what if I had an event? and I needed the stuff in a timely mannor? Kinda a pain, didn't save any money and now it's late and I have to find another place to get Trans fluid, Pre-mix and Engine oil....great. So FRS sport?...yea some people might've had a good experience.. but you know what.. I didn't at all. SO things havn't been going my way as of late haha. The wheels I ordered also happened to be out of stock so they're going to take 4-6 weeks from advan over sea's as well.

Anyways onto build progress...:

cut off the Vac port for the brake booster and ordered a nice little fitting That Colin told me about (Twinchargedfd) Thanks man! It's a push fit check valve with a -6 male on it. Will clean up the vacuum side of things.
Cut
Attachment 680785
fitting
Attachment 680786
drilled the hole out and pushed it in.. Fits Nice and tight =-)
Attachment 680787
Also went to Albertsons and got a block of Dry Ice to test out how much I would need to get all the sound deadening off. With one block..which was about 3 bucks I believe, I was able to get the Passenger side floor pan done and the drivers side rear bin area and a couple small spots by my shifter. But I hate doing this... it's such a pain haha.
Attachment 680788
Not much else done..... But hopefully Some stuff will come in today and I can find another idemitsu Distributor that has products in stock. Do you guys know of any? only one I know of is some guy with a shop called dragon something? any of you guys know of him?

Yeah its authentic :) but terminals come separate, factor in the gold plated terminals and the all in cost is closer to $125. The crimper was $70 (used), but I didn't buy that just for this car, I've now used it to wire in a 2jz in a 73' datson 240, and a few other cars as well.

not until I have a dyno sheet :)

Sorry AP, back on to your build !!!

And since you are in Cali, you should buy that AD-GT kit that Blackade just put up for sale :)

Thanks twincharged. What crimp tool and attachments would you recommend?
Also reason Id want one is because I hate feeding the connectors through the dash wiring and through the firewall, I have bad shoulders and always tweek them when reaching up in the dash.
/threadjack

So after talking to the Rep from FRSsport.com they said that they couldn't do anything about the order I just placed. .....which I find funny considering they had no problem cancelling the order and re-doing for the products they didn't have in stock. I asked politely about possibly giving a slight discount considering no one contacted me to tell me the stuff was out of stock, hadn't been shipped etc...and they said they were going to contact me but didn't because I called them first. Well....DUH i called first when something was supposed to be here in 3 days and I waited 5 and didn't recieve anything. They also said they would be happy to "take care of me" next time I ordered something. Sorry but I won't be using FRS Sport ever again. There are far too many distributors that are good to take another chance on a bad one. I actually have a buddy that bought a 3 bar map sensor off them that was already spoken for from them... Don't know what ever happened with that but I assume he didn't get the map sensor. So what did I ended up finding a Idemitsu Dealer after using google. I e-mailed the guy nammed Omar and he got back to me promptly, the idemitsu prices were almost 10 dollars cheaper for the pre-mix and i'm glad to have orderd pre-mix, Gear oil, and engine oil from him. Got a case of pre-mix, case of engine oil 20/50 and Trans oil for cheaper than FRS SPort shipped. I'm not affiliated in any way to any distributors nor do I even know this guy but He did take care of my order and his prices were lower than anywhere else I saw. The Website was dragonmotorsports. net The guy I spoke to was nammed Omar. Seemed nice enough and hopefully if all works out I found a place I can trust for my cars oils/lubes etc.

Aaron mind telling me where to get that fitting for the brake booster? :D Looking very nice btw... I get to pick up my Adaptronics on Saturday :D

I had a good experience with FRSport, but only placed one order.

One more question and I SWEAR I'll leave you alone. Where did you source that radiator core? I'm assuming you have to contact a company such as Bell, Fluidyne, etc since they don't list them on their website, must be for custom orders?

Hey Shawn! here you go!

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...FUVN4AodvXMADw