The main question I had for Pettit was, what to do with the outlet of the BOV. The stock one is a 180' that goes into the air-box. The Pettit BOV is a 90' so it would be difficult to route it to the air-box. He said to just leave it pointed downward.....doesn't need a filter because it's pushing air out. If need be I could look for a heater hose with the right bends to get it back to the stock air-box. Petitt did say the early air-box's aren't that efficient....I'd like to keep my FD engine compartment looking stock.
If the CRV and BOV aren't routed back to the turbo intake would that fix the ingestion problem?

Yes, it would.
That is what I have done for now, just the stock rubber hose from the CRV back into an M2 airbox with a filter on the end to help muffle it.
CRV plastic bits aren't going to make it past the CRV filter and then the turbo inlet filters and very unlikely they will suck back through the CRV since as Pettit says it is always positive pressure out of the turbo.

Such a superior build! I love all 7'S but your's is one of my top 5. Interested to see if you stick with the twins or take it to a single.

Hey Greg Sabol - sorry for the slow reply, have been on vacation. Looks like @BLUE TII has answered your questions (thank you :icon_tup:).

So yes - long story short, my CRV and BOV are plumbed back to the intake filters like the stock setup. Meaning the plastic shards were blown back to the filters, then sucked back into the turbine. Putting a separate filter on the end of these would fix the issue for anyone running sequentially.

For me running parallel, I will just be eliminating both of these parts. It is very unfortunate that these were overlooked and left on the car. I had assumed they were left there for a reason, until i took apart the Y Pipe setup and realized they serve no purpose.... but no point dwelling on it now, I will fix it and keep pushing the build forwards :nod:

Tom

Thank you, I appreciate the kind words!

I am still waiting to hear from the shop on the condition of the twins as a candidate for rebuild. I will keep you all posted here, I have 7 more months of winter left and a long list of jobs I want to do on the car :nod:

Scoping the block
 

So in an effort to cure my paranoia about any metal getting into the block; I decided to buy cheap endoscope off amazon and see how things look through the exhaust ports.

The video turned out better than I expected and much to my relief everything looks good inside. I did not see any scratches or nicks in the rotors or the apex seals as they went by. But if anyone notices anything I missed please let me know. The block has already been fogged for winter hence all the oil you can see.

Anyway thought I would share the videos for those interested. The video of the front rotor came out really nice, but I struggled to get a nice angle on the rear.


Front Rotor:




Rear Rotor:

Damn... Those videos actually look pretty good. Now im thinking about getting one too so i can check the rear rotor of one of my cars since it seems to have stuck seals, or at least thats what i hope lol. Which one was it that you bought? if you can pm me the info.

Thanks!

Been a while since I updated anything here. Getting parts to resolve the turbo damage coupled with busy weekends in the run up to Christmas has really slowed my progress.H opefully the New Year will be much more productive!

5 gauges on the speaker? Yikes haha

Interesting to see how your styling has changed in 10 years.

Yep, I love them! Give a fighter jet type feel from the drivers seat with them wrapped right across to the Power FC Commander!


Yeah, I think the big factor is that 10 years of career progression has removed some of the financial barrier of want vs affordability. Some things have changed, but I notice my love of analogue gauges and big wings has not! :egrin:

Your old NZ Rx7 looked pretty tidy too :)

Thanks, Yep it was a nice car. But my choices on the build were severely limited by my knowledge, skills and funds at the time. I am very happy to be where I am now with my build :nod:

If you haven't already made the decision I'd recommend sticking with the twins. I remember liking my car best when I was pushing 15 lbs with all the supporting mods on the sequential twins. Nothing blew and I drove the car really hard every time out for a long time. I went to parallel and liked it less. I went to a large single and liked it even less. Obviously the car was faster once it got going but it wasn't nearly as fun to drive.

Man you've sure got a ton of money and effort in this thing to still be rockin a good ole fashion Power FC. Any thoughts of upgrading in the future? With a modern ecu and mild to medium sized streetport, you can pretty well tune it to run like a factory oem car and toss in enough engine protection to ensure your motor only gets rebuilt when you choose to do it.

Skeese

Appreciate your input - fun to drive is very important, especially as this is a fair weather toy to put a smile on my face!

If I go single and mess with the injectors again I will likely upgrade the ECU.

But at this stage, the power FC is fully functional, the tune is super conservative and when I asked prior to the rebuild; the engine builder/tuners advice was to keep it :icon_tup:

Like you I went non-sequential and hated it. So I went single and love it again. But the key is that for street driven cars, large singles are out of the question.

love this project! do you happen to know the specs of the wheels?

Unfortunately no I don't. They came with the car from Japan. All I know is that they are 20" (11's in the front and 12's in the rear).
Really wish they were 19" but will work with what I have got, they are super expensive and very light so I have no plans to change them anytime soon.


Thank you!

Very nice!!!
Photos and car - just perfect!

Well it's been a long time coming but the car is almost ready for the road. Both my wife and I recently changed jobs and it took forever for some parts to arrive, but I expect to be driving n the next few weeks, assuming the snow has all gone!

I decided to stick with the twins for the time being. 375 rwhp is more than enough to get me in trouble and I have other items I want to address before adding any more power. The turbine was replaced and high speed balanced by an experienced shop. So these are once again like new. I was very happy to see no signs of cracking or fatigue at the manifolds (as you would expect for a set with <1000km on them!).

I had a bear of a time removing one of the exhaust manifold studs, Even after a week of PB blaster it snapped, then I got a stud extractor and after heat from a torch the remainder snapped again. I then pulled the manifold and had a shop drill the stud out. They even tried welding before drilling with no luck, it really was stuck in there. Upon installation I used nickel anti seize, which is supposed to be good up to 2400F......hopefully that helps in the future.

Due in part to my OCD and also because I never want to remove/reinstall the twins again (until they are swapped for a single turbo), all studs were brand new OEM, as were all gaskets. They certainly are not cheap, but at least I know it will be right. The stock BOV and CRV were deleted and the openings blocked off with silicone caps from 034 Motorsports, pricey but can take over 600F and are specifically designed to handle boost pressure. I will let you all know how they perform.


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...17d3b4fb6e.jpg
As expected for <1000km of driving, no cracks or wear!


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b605e46537.jpg
As expected for <1000km of driving, no cracks or wear!


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...52ac9bf53b.jpg
All shields cleaned up and painted with ceramic


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ffc629367b.jpg
All shields cleaned up and painted, new OEM gaskets and new OEM studs, including the four to the block.


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6e7ee360c8.jpg
Oooooh, shiny!


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...52494f2d87.jpg
Stock BOV and CRV deleted, openings blocked off with silicone caps from 034 Motorsports, pricey but can take over 600F and are specifically designed to handle boost pressure.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b0a14f9edb.jpg
Finally back to normal! A bit less cluttered due to eliminating CRV, BOV and the associated hoses.

Super Rare 94mm FEED Titanium Exhaust
 

Whilst doing some other work on the car I decided to take the opportunity to have a look at the exhaust; specifically I wanted to know how much this beast weighs.

Well I can now confirm it is unbelievably light:

FEED 80mm Stainless Steel Down Pipe (wrapped) = 4.2kg
FEED 94mm Titanium Resonated Mid Pipe = 3.4kg
FEED 94mm Titanium Tail Pipe = 3.4kg

That makes a total weight of only 11kg (24.2 lb) for the entire engine back exhaust system :eek:


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2b422995fd.jpg
Super Rare FEED 94mm Titanium Exhaust

Tightening up the drivetrain!
 

Now that the exhaust is off, it gives me space to install a couple of parts that have been on my shelf a while.

HPP 2 in 1 Differential Brace/Cradle courtesy of tomsn16 and the Banzai Racing Transmission Brace

Really looking forward to rocking these pieces :icon_tup:



https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4b48888b9c.jpg



https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...59ed92fd36.jpg

Looking good. Interesting that you deleted BOV and CRV.

after what happened to him I wouldnt trust them either :banghead: assuming he put an aftermarket bov on?

Can I ask what mechanic you went to for your OOP inspection? I'm importing my RX7 to the New West port and am looking for a mechanic for the inspection. Hopefully we can meet up once my car is here and on the road 😊

I have a HKS BOV on the cold side of the intercooler piping. The OEM BOV and CRV were basically performing the duties of a 2nd and 3rd BOV (as I am parallel). I have had MANY discussions around whether or not those OEM parts should or should not have been left on the car. The general consensus was that they usually never fail so why not leave them on in order to provide super fast relief of pressure close to the turbines. However, as I was very unfortunate in the failure of mine, I see no reason to replace those OEM parts when I have the HKS BOV.

I Live in Alberta so got my inspections done here. I can't offer any advice for your OOP in BC. I can however recommend the guys at ForceFed if you want a top quality rotary mechanic to look it over before you hit the road :icon_tup:

As for meeting up, if you are ever in southern Alberta let me know, I expect my car wont be over Vancouver way for a couple of years yet until I go single turbo and am back at ForceFed.

Do you have the off sets on those

• Advan Racing GT 20” Rims (11” front and 12” rear) ?

Thanks

Unfortunately no, they came on the car from Japan (one of the factors considered when I bid at auction as I knew how damn expensive they are!).

I am am away at work the next few days, but can measure when I get home. Send me a PM if you don’t hear from me.

FYI The kit is very, very wide as it also uses spacers in the rear. Are you looking at getting the same kit?

Very Nice!!!

Installed Cusco Brake Master Cylinder Stopper/Brace. Not perfectly centered but looks like it will work with the Chips MotorSports LLC 929 Master Cylinder :icon_tup:

Apologies for the poor photographs, it was a pain to get a photo of it hidden down there!



https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...78519ddf83.jpg




https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...28399737c6.jpg

How is the feel with the Cusco brace? I bought one a year ago but haven't gotten around to installing it yet.

Still to be determined, it’s raining here so I have not had chance to test it.

Will post back with my findings!

Installed some Banzai Racing block off plates to cover those last few unsightly holes!

Doubt anyone else will ever notice but made me happy knowing its done right :icon_tup:

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...71515998a1.jpg


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...230975b366.jpg

Brand new clutch master and slave installed :icon_tup:

Piece by piece the whole car will be brand new :nod:



https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...81f5b97eb2.jpg




https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ad8fa3602a.jpg

Took her for a spin today. Not sure if its just in my head but the brakes feel firmer to me. I always had a little bit of a spongy feeling that no amount of bleeding would fix, but it feels rock hard now!

I rarely drive with a passenger, the short videos below gives you an idea how the car sounds cruising at highway speed:

Perfect Weather for a rip and some photos!!!
 

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1c859cd7a6.jpg


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9f02655a97.jpg


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b81086d1a4.jpg


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d68eddbc0b.jpg


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c82c430699.jpg


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4481dd2e0a.jpg


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...67896e1de9.jpg


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...69e6c38506.jpg


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f9dab1e1f0.jpg


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d8f0e08a06.jpg


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c996ecebc9.jpg

Awesome pics. But nothing quite like 5 gauges destroying the beauty of the dash.

Each to their own, I love mechanical gauges, the start up sequence makes me happy every time I turn the key to on!

It is just such as beautiful ride my friend.

Thank you! It certainly turns heads!

Couple of quick videos for those who say photos are not enough!

Totally agree with you. I have 3 Defi gauges in a similar position. I love it to death.

looking at both sides -

I think the gauges are awesome too, but since your build is so damn clean I don't think its the gauges....I think its just the mounting brackets and the lay of the wires.

maybe a custom 1 piece mounting bracket to hold the 5 gauges with some wire loom for the cables. I don't think the wires have to be hidden - just tidying up.

if it were me - I would form a single aluminum strip to the couture of the dash for all 5 gauges, then weld some small blocks to attach the gauges to - powder coat it flat black. Maybe get the single gauge pod for the speaker cover on the dash, shave the pod and re fiberglass it to have a sleek entry point for the wires from the gauges to tidy up the wires.

its just that your car is so clean that things will stand out if its not fluid with the rest of the visual sexiness of your car.

although - the current 5 gauge set-up has personality which allows someone to feel more connected and engaged to it.

either way - its badass.

congrats on the car and in progress build to YOUR liking!!!!

Ben

Its super late '90s/early 2000s JDM to have all the analog gauges and mounted to the dash with the band style mounts and wires exposed.

Not saying its a look I would do, but its definitely an aesthetic and I have seen it counless times on big shop made JDM demo cars.

I think it suits this build just fine; absolutely no slight intended - this car is a true JDM legend.

Love the vids, so glad you are still enjoying the car and sharing your enjoyment with us!