Exactly. Just how well do you trust your tuner (or yourself if self-tuned), and everything about your tune in all weather and driving conditions? I second guess my choice to go single EFR instead of stock or BNR twins every day. I have a feeling one day I'll ditch the 8374, scratch the itch and find out what a well sorted sequential setup is like. I'm with you, though. I like the direction you're going with the car. Hope to see it one day if mine is ever finished and I make it to DGRR.

A car is NEVER done, if you wait for it to be done you'll never get there. I dragged my feet for ages before I finally went to DGRR, was SO PISSED I hadn't been going for so long. Been there every year since 2010.

You're so close, just come down in the daily driver and meet everyone and check out their cars. You'd be amazed at how much you will learn and how many contacts you can make. If you car starts, runs, and drives, bring it anyhow.

Dale

Engine bay prepped for paint.
Attachment 747836

Painted
Attachment 747837

Engine in. Test drive went well.
Attachment 747838

Found a leak by the throttle body, this was the culprit
Attachment 747839

Small leak from the turbo came from this silly mistake.
Attachment 747840

Next up - fix hunting idle. I welcome any tips you have. Finish button it up, put some miles on it and determine if it's ready for DGRR in 2 weeks.

Looks great! Love the CYM.

Looking forward to seeing it at Deals Gap

On the hunting idle, start with cleaning the ISC. If it sticks you will get a hunting idle.

Take it off the car, spray it down with carb cleaner, and hit it with some WD-40 to lube up the insides. Attach 12v to one post and ground to the other and work the solenoid back and forth a few times.

Dale

^ thanks Dale. Tried that and it didn't work. Think I'm gonna try another throttle body that I have next.

Installed these last night. Went back and forth on these coilovers or koni yellow and eibach but decided to get these since it was local and i would be cutting it close on the Koni yellow and eibach setup. Quality and ride seems great so far.
Attachment 747829

Made a few adjustment then got it aligned.
Attachment 747830

And here's how she looks at the moment
Attachment 747831

Next up, paint the headlight lids, cut, buff and ceramic coat.

Those old school volks looks good on the stock body. Great progress.

^ thxs. Car made it to a back from DGRR. Still have a few small things I want to tidy up but overall really happy with the car.

Attachment 747717

Attachment 747718

So after many attempts I finally found my vacuum leak. I’m not using an injector diffuser on my secondary injectors, therefore when I added the injector o-ring, the injector o-ring sat too far down in the LIM. With the injector o-ring sitting down in the LIM this created a gap between the fuel rail and LIM. I resolved this issue by adding additional o-rings. I was able to find this leak by using a homemade smoke test.

Attachment 747660

The car idles so much better.

Another exciting news is I was able to get AC working kinda. The ac blows cold but it is on a manual switch to activate the compressor. For whatever reason, the AC relay is not working like it should. From what I understand, when the AC switch is pressed, it supposed to complete a ground which turns on the AC compressor. This is not taken place on the car for whatever reason. I’m currently on a PFC and tried to using a stock ECU and didn’t have any luck. I know about the trick about adding an additional relay and there is one there from the previous owner.

Attachment 747661

Attachment 747662

Next steps, remove old tint, get new tint on and figure out why my AC switch is not working like it should.

That AC circuit isn't too crazy. It does go through the ECU for the ECU to control the compressor (disengage at full throttle). It also loops through the pressure switch under the battery on the AC line to keep it from engaging when the pressure in the system is too low.

The temp coming out of the vent is warmer than it should be - you're shooting for 35-40 degree air coming out of the vent.

Dale

Thxs Dale. If you was going to troubleshoot the ac issue. Hiw would you go about it?

AC is a topic I know a lot of principles about but not much practice. I've done a few conversions with some measure of success, though.

You do need to pull the system down to a hard vacuum (29") with a real vacuum pump before charging. Charge the R152a by volume, I'm trying to find the number of ounces the system needs for a full charge.

You'd also need to put a gauge manifold on and see what the high and low pressures are telling you.

Dale

^ yea I remember you saying something about vacuuming the system in another post. We pulled (29") of vacuum for a good 1.5 hours. We put 20 oz of the air duster in the system and put gauge manifold on. Don't remember the high side numbers but it was within range. The low side however was on the low side.

I think my issue has to do with the wiring from the AC switch to the relay...

I think 20oz may be too much. I know you put less R152a than R12 in the system.

Yeah, could be the PFC AC problem or something.

Dale

Don't quote me on this, but I feel like I saw a thread where someone did the math and landed on about 12oz for the Denso AC system (~22oz R12). I think the ratio between 152a and 12 is supposed to be 0.56. I'll have to dig around for the thread(s).

You mentioned you pulled vacuum for 1.5 hours, but did you let it sit afterwards to see if it held the vacuum? I'd also put a new drier in if you can.

I'd watch if the compressor is running. If it is running and the temperature isn't dropping its probably not a wiring issue. I believe any wiring issue causing the temperature not to drop would be due to shutting the compressor off.

I'd also make sure not to minimize air you let into the system when adding the refrigerant. ie, when you swap your charge hose from the vacuum to your refrigerant.

^ we smoke test, then did a dye test, then pressurized the system to ensure there was no leaks. So we didn't let it site after we pulled the vacuum. The compressor did not kick on. I had to manual power it on by jumping the wire from the compressor to the battery or complete a ground from the relay.

Ah, got it. The way I read it was that you got 60 degrees when you had the compressor running already.

For what it is worth, here is the thread that explains how to figure out the 152A weight
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-arch.../#post11085595

And another from Dale of the past
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-gene.../#post12252009

If you haven't already, the low/high pressure switch could keep the compressor from turning on if it's bad or it doesn't like your pressures. You could try checking that too. When I bought my car mine was bad (but was also leaking)

Man, Dale of the past is a good guy :).

Yeah, the .56 ratio to R12 and the 12oz of R152a sounds correct.

Dale

Update.

Car is in the paint shop for a full respray and installing the following parts: 99 front, sides and spoiler.

Attachment 747255


Attachment 747256

Attachment 747257

Attachment 747258

Will also be installing CF MazdaSpeed lip and CF deck on the 99 spoiler.

Hoping it will be out of the paint shop by the end of Sept.

This is exactly what I was planning to do with mine after I finish the FC. I think it would be easier than fixing the individual areas I'm unhappy with and the paint would be consistent across the board then. Super excited to see how this turns out!

What are the tire specs for your GT-Ps? Was curious because I was planning on running similar set on mine...

^
255/40/17
275/40/17

Looking great Johnny! Wish i'd held out for a CYM, my favorite.

Thanks man, the new Corvette has me itching to get one. Maybe the itch won't be there once this car is out of paint.