At this time im going for a more angular look, like many of the TA cars in Japan... I really like the "raw" look. I will be using the stock dash support bar and making everything else from scratch!

Gracias

 

Because i like to start 4000 projects before finishing one.........

messed around with fenders today... ill be making my own fenders based off the burnout fender flares (atm- could change...)
some pics... Mind you im on my super stealthy ninja wheels... so the car looks like its floating.........

(its really not aggressive... idk if i like how subtle they are...)







full album....
fender Photos by muibenjamin | Photobucket

 

So i did some playing around with some composites.... a test panel i Made with an embossed logo =) Gloss panel - matte embossed, i think it looks sweeeeeeeeet!


worked on the door panels.. but unfortunately they are a bit too flimsy for my liking so i order some different material to test...



Also worked on the engine bay cover... fine tuned some imperfections meow to wet sand and buff....


Alsooooooooo popping out some fender flares to get ready to design my own widebody kit...


Anddddddddddd I sold the mill, It had a pretty large foot print so i gain a good amount of space back in the garage, which means................... The 7 will be making its back way into the garage in the next few days!




and last some really whack renderings of the bumper i will me making... based off a 99 spec, which will kind of a hybrid between the 99 spec, cwest, and RE-Amemiya bumper....

 

Busy beaver!

 

The engine bay cover is looking really nice!

 

The reason why you’re not getting the structural integrity of your part is because you’re using polyester resin, which is only good if you’re making a bumper or something where you need the flex. If you want a stiffer part in fiberglass, I would recommend BGF S-Glass, Lantor Soric SF (so you won’t get print-through) and some West Systems epoxy. If you’re going to use carbon fiber, I would protect it from the UV rays which will damage the parts. It would also be dope if you put in some pink pigment into your **** too.

 

Thanks!

Is BGF a brand/company? Hmm i dont know why i didnt use S-glass. this was made from E-glass.... i think the 0/90 weave pattern plays a good roll in it as well. I'm doing some tests with + -45/45 biaxial cloth.. as for the soric, at this time i'm trying to keep it 100% composite with no core material...

The Carbon fiber will have some UV protection, weather it be a UV clear gel coat or some Clear coat... TBD..

haha i would love the pink pigments although, i dont think that would help the sales ahhahahaha

 

BGF is the industry standard in composites in the US and Advanced Composites Group in Europe. And E-Glass will do just fine. S-Glass is 35% stronger and more impact resistant, but the trade off is that it’s 4 times more expensive. But both E-Glass and S-Glass should have a silane finish considering you have aerospace-grade fiberglass. If it’s volan, then it’s meh…

 

You know what would be sweet, is some burnout-sized rear flares that are rounded instead of having the creased arch in them. Sort of a mini-Pettit flare.

The Pettit's are cool, but they are also HUGE so they really demand a 12"+ wheel, and the inner lip is large, so it's hard to get the rear tire really out near flush. You also need a wide front flare to go with them, or the car looks a little bit like a tractor at some angles.

 

gotcha, i may try some S-glass, I know the E-glass would work but i dont want to cake another 2-3 layers on yet.

thats an interesting thought. however i like the flat face on them... however i do agree with youre pettit flare comment, those things are masssssssssssive!

 

The key is the resin you're using. Try out the West System epoxy and you will not go wrong.

If you have to use polyester resin, then use CCP Polycor Stypol 8085 which is an orthothalic resin that will give you a bad *** cosmetic quality part that won't take forever and a day to infuse. Or you can go the isophthalic route and use Reichhold Dion 6631 that will have amazing corrosion resistance and can last 30 years.

 

I am currently using an 8085 Orthothalic resin. i would love to use the west system epoxy but it will drive the price of parts up dramatically since its almost 2.5 times the cost of the 8085. Which i can not justify the price difference at this time.... thanks for the advice tho!

 

PM'ed

 

nice to see you've made progress on your car Ben! Keep up the good work!!! In the next couple months I'll be passing by your area. Mine if I come take a look at your progress in person?? For those who have not met Ben in person or seen his car you're missing out! Ben is a real cool laid back guy!

you need to post more over on GJ! lol

-Dan

 

Sorry i'm very busy and free time is hard to come by.

Some comparisons on the door panelzz
Stock door panels 4 lbs 12.8 oz


Bubble Tech Fiberglass door panels 1 lbs 13.6 oz

 

making bad decisions.....

 

Haha. That's the best kind.

I have an extra set of panspeed flares if you need them.

 

^^lol thanks. well see how bad this goes............




R.I.P. Hot pink.......


This B17 stuff is the ****. removes powder coat with by just soaking. but warning it is VERY DANGEROUS stuff. must respect the chemicals. a nice rinse and light blasting and ready to be re-powderedddd

 

Good luck on the flares man. Starting to look good though!

 

Thanks spoken!

so im really feeling the pressure. started axing some things off the list to get done before DGRR.... not being able to use my garage has really put me behind schedule......

but first priority is getting the body straitened out.. worked on "my" kit some more today...

I'd like some opinions on the connection where the side skirts meet the fender "gills"...
Version A- side skirt untrimmed


Version B- trimmed


test fitting my rims... man i forgot what a difference rims do to a car... please excuse the ENORMOUS gap..... im hoping its from the car being gutted and the only thing left inside is the engine...... the front lip is like 6.5" above the ground.............................


Andddddddddddd i have to completely redo the rears......... this is with about 20mm spacer.........


No way in hell will i ever fill that up with these rims... I went a little to HAM on the "extra" flare... lol ill just go back to its original 20-25 mm flare lol

 

Cardboard engineering FTW! I never throw away cardboard for the exact same reason.

 

^ The offset is what "fills" it up, not the rim width.

 

my opinion...
trimed skirt > untrimed skirt

 

lmao yess, card board is priceless. i NEVER throw anything out.. especially BIG boxes. perfect "garbage cans" for stuff that destroys plastic bags..

NEVER. i had an rx8 once. had to buy tires. cried. never will i go 18's for that reason i like the 17's i dont think the 7 needs 18. i wish the wheels were wider but definitely not buying new rims. i love my played out cr kais....

very true, but from the back they look skinnyyyyyy, but i think its because the car is so high up...

thank, its about even in opinions so far.. hahaha

 

go with version b. i like the idea behind the fenders. all the newer GT cars have some kinda venting around the fenders. it looks great and it's functional too. there's nothing out there like that for the FD that i know of. keep up the good work.