Also my new CSG lights turned up after over a 6 month wait. After taking the hot knife to them and cutting the lenses off in favour of some Uras lenses they now look how I want. I always found the CSG depo lenses a bit dull and really liked the URAS lenses with the black border.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2e876ca23c.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e3fd5cb6c2.jpg

Don't worry, those bullet connectors on the loom will be going, infact most of the loom will be going :D.

Direct fire R35 coils should arrive this week... Gone with the franklin brackets, went with gold because shiny :redface:.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8dc15407eb.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...18e7edcc9e.jpg



I've got all new seals etc for the motor, the last bits arrived last week so I'll get on and build that up soon. Going with Goopy apex seals this time thanks to my friend Hayden for posting them over :D. Port wise I've port matched everything but not changed the intake port timing. I've slightly enlarged the exhaust ports, this should get what I want out of my twins and fingers crossed make for a fun road car. With the Link ECU I'll get loads of nice modern features, cruise, canbus systems, gauges, traction control, full properly controlled sequential twins. Fans controlled by PWM based on speed and coolant temp, fuel pump controlled by PWM based on load and rpm etc.

Did not think that Link could control the twins sequentially? Are they releasing a new ECU?

They do not offer a specific plugin ECU for the FD with enough IO's to support twins with all the extras I'll be running like ethrottle etc. I'll be using a FuryX wire-in with onboard lambda and a new custom engine loom then I get extras IO's and can configure what I need for twins.

Do you think you'll be able to get closed loop boost control working? I couldn't think of a way to do that with a link, given the system has two wastegates that operate at different times :-/. Maybe open loop while the first pre-spool wastegate is being used, then closed loop after transition? I've got a fury for mine too, but it'll be a while before I pop that in there.

Wonder if there would be a market for a stand-alone twin turbo controller. Including all the valves, and control hardware... Just sucks engine speed, load, boost requests or similar off an aftermarket ecu via CAN and does the rest itself, hmmmmm.

I'll be using a 3D PWM table for the precontrol and the main wastegate will be controlled as a normal boost controller. This way will give me good control over boost and adjustable precontrol that you can pin fully open above 4.5k. I'm not using the standard solenoids for wastegate or precontrol.

The link software is so nice to use. Swapping to PWM control for the fuel pump and fans saves a bunch of outputs if you need more. I'm using the Mercedes controller for the fans rather than an SSR and the Jaguar controller for the fuel pump. Cant beat oem car parts for reliability.

Good to know on the Mercedes controller on the fan. I was planning on using that or a Corvette fan controller for my Spal fan on the series 3 RX-7 (which will be using a Link Thunder ECU). They look to have much better current handling than an SSR.

They are almost identical and made by the same manufacturer. The main difference is the Mercedes one needs an additional cable for power with ignition when the GM one doesn't. In the UK the Mercedes controller is easier to source so I went that route. They have the same current handling etc :).

Does the lens has to be open with a hot knife? Will the good old oven method work?

a lot of nice stuff here. Clean and thorough. !!

I do like the hardlines for the fuel rails and the FPD is nice, stuff you dont see too often.

i have considered the GTR coils with these brackets in the past but i had already built my harness and took me months to make a nice clean bolt on solution for the coil brackets to go under the manifold. I kinda wish i saw them before my harness was built

Wow!
Sexy stuff happening here

Thanks to one of @Howard Coleman CPR posts in a coolant seal thread I've convinced myself that my engine needs studs. So I've got a set of these 10mm studs from Chip Motorsports working their way across the Atlantic.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f439b03639.jpg

They seem a really nice solution to get a bit more clamp and I'm all up for anything to improve this motor.

I've done this in the past with the rear lights on FD's but didn't want to risk heating up the CSG's too much as the control units and everything are attached. The URAS lights were glued rather than any kind of sealant to heat up. Also the lenses of most aftermarket 99 lights are not interchangeable as they all mount slightly differently and have different angles on the lens, I used a black marine epoxy sealant to re-attach these after modifying both sides so they mate up ok, it looks good, you cant see it when fitted. I'll get some installed pics soon.

Cant go wrong with a good hard line :D, I hate braided hose, it is so abrasive and impossible to inspect so always favour hard lines or a good quality rubber hose. I need to make up some supporting mounts for these hardlines, I'll do that when I've done my engine harness to ensure everything works together, loads of space now the coils are gone! I will be replacing all the lines back to the tank and all rubber with ethanol safe rubber. The stainless is a bit more of a faff to bend and flare than other options but it'll keep looking good for a long time :).

Speaking of the coils, they arrived yesterday!

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1e0e451e2c.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...69ff1ae0bd.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b48e043916.jpg

They are nicely made. Not sure how nice it'll be swapping plugs in the bay, I'll let you know when they are in but as a solution it keeps the coils in a nice cold area of the engine bay and frees up a lot of the space on top of the block. And no wires :D.

You might notice they are not fitted correctly in the pic, this is because they come with an m10 1.5mm pitch bolt when my housings are m10 1.25 pitch, so they are gently threaded by hand a couple of turns until it binds just to mock up. New bolts in the correct thread should arrive next week.

Thanks! :D

i did not notice it to be honest . i had to go back a couple of times looking like this :scratch: haha..

i do not like stainless braided hoses either but sometimes you dont really have too many options unless you do hardlines like that
i was initially using the stainless braided one , i then switched to the nylon where appropriate
i have now switched to the goodridge 910 hose which is an aramid fiber braid. really nice solution and not abrasive at all

thats a great project you got going! keep up the nice work !!

Where can one get info on those coils?
I imagine they won't work with stock ECU but how about PowerFC?

https://franklinperformance.nz/colle...rotary-engines

i think you can wire them for the power fc

That make sense if all the control board are attached. I have open a lot of headlights and tail lights in the past, but never on a bumper light. I have a DEPO 93 bumper light I want to experience something on, that's why I was wondering if they can be open by just heat. Do you have any picture on where you made the cut on the housing?

https://franklinperformance.nz/colle.../13b-coil-loom

Looks like they sell a PNP harness to get them working with a factory setup. No reason you couldn't make one of these yourself though.

I don't but I'm doing a second set for a friend so I'll get some pics.

New clutch arrived. My mate Dean has one in his car and it feels like stock but holds mid 500s. Definitely want to keep this a road car and don't want a heavy on off switch pedal.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f6e2cfc9fd.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5901c3161a.jpg

Further simplified the UIM for DBW, thought I may as well do it now as when the car is working I'm unlikely to want to take it apart again as it has been off the road for so long :D.


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1e602afb5c.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...dc8f6a4579.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3ddf2f93a2.jpg

Bought a new titanium midpipe, this thing is so light! Really shows up my finger prints though haha.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7819b5a228.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...31dad95e35.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c12bdb04d0.jpg

Gone with twin Bosch knock sensors as knock is such a critical tuning aid and the oem oil filed one is known for being a bit pants. I had to run a tap through the Franklin knock brackets as it was only partially threaded and loctite in a thread converter to m8 1.25. Titanium hardware with a collar to centre the sensor nicely. I'm changing most of the sensors on the block to more modern, accurate and easy to source sensors.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e79f1a7087.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...fe0e41fd2e.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...38db57f72c.jpg

Fitted an RX-8 shifter as the short shifter I fitted before was super notchy, wasn't keen on that.

This is now so smooth, better than I've ever felt an FD shift before that's for sure.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1695897ee5.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d9e8ee6608.jpg

What makes it smoother I wonder? Looks nearly the same as stock FD.

I fitted some collar weights on the stick under the boot to add 300 grams throw weight. plus a re-a shifter knob that weighs 300 grams itself.

Finger tip flicking between gears.

My AFR sensor bung was not mounted at the right angle and, as a result, accumulates moisture and burns itself out. So I need a new sensor every 5000 km.

Yes they need to be angled slightly upward to allow them to drain and stop them gathering any condensation. My AFR sensor is in the stock downpipe location so I wont be using the location built into this midpipe.

You should move the Wideband into the midpipe and away from the factory downpipe location for the stock O2.

I prefer the oem location to the location in the Tomei midpipe. Tomei decided to have the bung at a downward angle for some reason I don't understand.

I could drill and weld a bung into my FEED downpipe but it's freshly ceramic coated and I'd rather just use the oem location.

Put a new AFR sensor in mine, but gauge is still is not reading right. I suspect the new sensor ($29 ebay). Haha.

Is that the Black Diamond stage 2 kevlar clutch?