02 Type R Bathurst
 

Hello, my name is Tom and I have an FD problem. This is my third FD and I plan to be holding onto this one for a long time.

The car is a bone stock 2002 Type R Bathurst in 20P. She needs a bit of TLC to get her up to snuff, but all fairly minor things really.

Plans are to keep it pretty stock (Yeah, I said that last time too :rolleyes:) and to restore it to as new condition. Late model 17" BBS wheels, RZ brakes & seats, that kind of thing :icon_tup:. I want to keep this one on the road to be enjoyed, not up on stands for a few years on end like my last one :lol:.

Here are some pics:

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Love it

Its so clean :drool1:

All the exterior needs is lower ride height and some spacers on the wheels. The panel fitment on that first shot is just perfect. Congrats :icon_tup:

Cheers guys.

The camera is being a little kind in the pics. The front and rear bumper needs respraying due to a few small blemishes and I've got a set of new headlight covers to go on as the ones on there have a couple of broken mounts.

I'd love to drop it a bit and I could drop it a bit as the Bathurst comes with adjustable height suspension as standard. But unfortunately the roads where I live are pretty terrible, so I'm possibly stuck at this height for now :(.

Will definitely be putting some spacers on when the oem 17s arrive :icon_tup:.

So, boring stuff. I wanted some better/non orange headlights that you can actually see with at night. I've fitted Bi-Xenons to both my previous FD's, but as I'm trying to keep this one as close to stock as possible, changing the headlight housings was not an option. I also get pretty irritable when I get blinded by people who stick high intensity discharge lights into stock reflector housings, so that was also out.
So, what that leaves me with is Philips new Luxeon HID's that preserve the standard beam pattern while chucking out gargantuan amounts of light. Sounds good? Well it is.

Pics:
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Fits like a glove with zero modifications to the car.

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Colour temperature comparison (They're the 6000k version).

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Low beam:

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Blurry phone pic of high beam:

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Been driving it around a fair bit, beam pattern is ace, I haven't been flashed once.

Now, this car hasn't ran right at all since I've owned it. Its got boost quirks.

A quick inspection revealed a check valve in two pieces, amazing the car drove super smooth and occasionally worked well-ish really.

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So, with that replaced the car was occasionally overboosing, time to get stuck in :D.

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So, being a 2002 model that's relatively low mileage you might think the vacuum lines "might" just be okay and the engine loom "might" just not be crispy plastic like other FD's? Well you'd be wrong, it all needs chopping out.

Black box:

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And out:

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And apart:

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Now I'd love to say getting it apart and back together was an easy job and I don't know what people are complaining about. But I'd be lying, it's a bastard and if I wasn't keeping this car stock I'd be fitting an early style rack pronto!

Anyway, managed to get the bloody thing apart, all the valves tested with the mityvac hot and cold, then back together without buggering anything up too much. Also fitted some of Dale Clarke's viton check valves while I was there. If you're doing the same, you will need to trim them a little to make them fit, then I'd recommend adding ~5mm of 4mmID pipe over each end to make the centres a similar size to the stock valves, that'll keep them snug so they cannot move.

The solenoids all checked out fine, the turbo control solenoid held 35psi happily, so that'll do me fine! Only two of the solenoids had a leak when under pressure, although this isn't an issue as they're all vacuum solenoids & they all held vacuum no problem :icon_tup:.

All back together:

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Tomorrows task is to get the car back together with new silicone hose and hopefully running super awesome :icon_tup:.

Couple of shots of the interior after replacing a few bits to tidy it up.

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tom i'm curious about the LED lights.

does anyone make a 4300k version of these LEDs? I can't find them anywhere. they are all 6000k plus. I feel that the color range is too blue and may actually hurt visibility compared to a 4300k xenon.

any thoughts?

Duplicate post..

I'm not sure, I didn't look to be honest as I was after 6000k. I used to always use 4300k lights until I owned an Audi that had 6000k lights standard. I got used to them and quite like the colour. It doesn't look as blue in person, more xenon whiteish.

The FD is back together and runs. It is still overboosting, though. Or is it? When I connect the mityvac up to the MAP sensor and pump it up to 10psi, the stock boost gauge reads 95 odd KPA (13.8psi). I have a spare cluster up for sale, so tried swapping the cluster to see if the stock gauge was out, same result. So now I'm thinking maybe the MAP sensor is out, I'll test it as per for FSM tonight. I also need to confirm the Mityvac is accurate, hoping to do that today at work.

Another issue I have is the car doesn't always make full secondary boost. For instance I can pull through 2nd making full primary and secondary boost, shift to 3rd and make maybe 6psi secondary boost. Primary always works correctly. So maybe a CCA or CRV fault?

Obviously the above values may be out as there is something odd going on with my instrumentation. I'll get the pressures reading correctly before I do too much more fault finding. Hopefully it's just the MAP sensor...

kudos on trying to get the seq system back to working correctly. The newer rats nest looks less complex.

Hi, where did you get those philips light? those are plug and play?

I've tested my MAP sensor, it checks out okay according to the FSM test. I also tested the pre-control and wastegate control solenoids again just to make sure, they're perfect. Next step is to check the wastegate actuator is actually moving with pressure, but I'm unlikely to have the evening light to get on to that until the weekend. I'm quite keen to ensure it's all working before I do another road test as according to the stock gauge I was making a bar of boost (14.4psi) which is waaay too much, don't want to pop the motor just yet ;).

Cheers, hopefully it'll be running properly soon :). It does look simpler at a glance, and sure is easier for Mazda to fix as they'll just replace the whole black box to diagnose a fault. But in truth it is more complex and is more costly and troublesome to fix when it does go wrong. I much prefer the earlier system.

Yeah, they're plug and play. I got them from horizonleds.

Haven't updated this for a while as I've mainly been working on the house. When I've had a little spare time I've been ironing out the issues with the car, collecting spares for the future & doing some serious cleaning, the bay was pretty grimy! The ally still needs a good scrub, but the rest is nearly there :).

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Going to replace a few bits this weekend with new genuine Mazda parts:
OMP, OMP injectors and lines.
Injector seals.
FPD.
FPR.
Fuel hoses.
Fuel filter.
Black box.
Intake gaskets.
AST.

Also picked up a bunch of spares, two low mileage black boxes and one new. Three sets of RZ calipers, Bathurst adjustable coilovers, very low mileage '99 twins and a bunch of other stuff I cant remember :).

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Hopefully will have some time spare to start on stripping and polishing the wheels this weekend :).

Wow! Looking really good!

That pile of parts you picked up made me drool a little bit :)

Dale

Makes me wish we got these across the pond.

Need all those parts! Pretty car.

I love the color. I really like how tidy the engine bay is too.

Cheers Dale :).

You will get them, eventually :lol:.

I had the same feeling when I owned my last single turbo FD, this one will be staying stock or close enough to stock that it can be reverted (All parts removed will be kept). I'm looking at buying another FD to get a bit more creative on :icon_tup:.

Cheers guys :icon_tup:.

I've been away visiting the Mrs's family in Massachusetts, so haven't got all the bits I planned to do done yet. The car is pretty close to running right now.

Gave the car a good service and the AST was swapped out for a new unit while changing the coolant. I managed to snap the radiator drain plug when removing it, putting the car off the road for a few days until the Mazda dealer could get one, just my luck! All sorted now, though.

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The RZ front brakes have been cleaned, stripped and sprayed, just waiting on Mazda for the new caliper pins, rebuild kits, spring kits and bleed nipples to arrive so they can go back together.

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The rears are all done, quite pleased with them. I swapped the pistons out for aftermarket stainless versions as they always seem to rust pretty good.

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Hoping all my new bits will arrive soon so I can get to work in the engine bay.

We might get them eventually but I am used to the steering wheel on the left. Now I'm getting old and refuse to learn new things. That's what happens when you get older.
Get off my Lawn!

Haha, could always swap the dash, steering rack etc ;). I was surprised how quickly driving on the right hand side of the road felt normal when I was over there. I think you'd be ok in an RHD as all of your roads are at least double the size of ours :lol:.

What a gorgeous car! Innocent blue is one of my favorite Mazda colors. Looking forward to keeping up with your build thread. :nod:

Managed to get a few bits done on the FD this weekend. New OMP lines and OMP injectors. New injector seals and diffusers. New FPD & some general tidying and cleaning of the engine bay.

Quite glad I decided to swap out the OMP lines, the old set fell apart at the slightest touch when I removed the primary rail!

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Also picked up a battery box lid from Mazda, makes a big difference to the bay I think :).

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Picked up a new left hand brake duct from Mazda as the car was missing it when I bought it. Swapped out all the undertray mounting hardware for aluminium rivnuts, stainless bolts and stainless penny washers while I was there as this area is a hot spot for corrosion.

Rivnuts in:

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Also attached the arch liners using rivnuts, should be better than the standard plastic fixings.

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Really should have painted that splitter while it was off, maybe next weekend :).

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that car is coming along great! Takes a lot of time to get it done right

Cheers guys, slowly getting there.

New wheels are inbound, more details when they arrive :egrin:.

I spent a bit more time on the front end today, removing and painting the oil cooler brackets, horns, tie down hooks, power steering cooler, fog lights and brackets etc etc. Also swapped all hardware out for stainless while I was there and the fogs are now led.

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Trying to do little bits like this in preparation for the respray. When putting it back together I played with the latch and bumper frame to get the panel gaps a bit better, they were pretty far out before, much better now.

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Next step is to drop the fuel tank and rear subframe, replace all the bushes, strip the underside and arches back to bare and re-do the lot like I did on my last fd. That should extend the cars life a bit and get rid of the annoying knocking coming from the pillowball at the bottom of the rear right shock.

Cheers Gordon, the plan is to try for concours level condition and set the car up to last a long time. I really enjoy restoring all the little bits, though. Especially if they're original to the car. I spent over an hour with the horns apart making them good, I think I have issues :D.

99+ have higher power output. It may not be over boosting at all. get an afr gauge, if its not leaning out its probably not over boosting

Yeah the 280PS model S8's run just under 11psi standard, this car was hitting over a bar (14.4psi). All that side is sorted now, it's running great and the boost is where it should be :icon_tup:.

This is a beautiful example of a well preserved Rx7 Tom, congrats! I have to admit that I envy a bit your capability and knowledge on working with technical things (sequential stuff, electronics, etc). I am tempted to try the Philips HIDs now :)

Just a clarification: The height adjustable Showa suspension was coming with the 2001 R-Bathurst-R Rx7 (500 pieces ever made), which also had the carbon look Mazdaspeed cluster. The R-Bathurst had non height adjustable suspension from factory.

Cheers!

Can you post a link to your lights?

Cheers! It's slowly getting there :). I'd definitely recommend the newer Philips LED's, they're better quality than others I've tried. I'm slowly converting the whole car to them.

The height adjustable Showa coilovers are fitted to the 2001 Type R Bathurst R and the 2001-2002 Type R Bathurst (Like my car) as standard, I can dig out the release documents if you're interested :). The differences between the two models are that the later Type R Bathurst has front fog lights as standard and doesn't have the carbon effect interior trim, handbrake, gear stick or the pillar sticker :icon_tup:.

The R Bathurst was made due to the success of the R Bathurst R the previous year :icon_tup:. I quite like the Showa coilovers, mine are currently set at about the middle of the height range. I'll likely lower that when I do the bushes as I now live in a flatter area.

4000 Lumens LED Headlight Kit | Reversible Base

There may well be better deals around for these now as I purchased these last year :icon_tup:.

[QUOTE=Ceylon;12192462]The height adjustable Showa coilovers are fitted to the 2001 Type R Bathurst R and the 2001-2002 Type R Bathurst (Like my car) as standard, I can dig out the release documents if you're interested :). [QUOTE]

Sure, if you have any brochures that would be interesting to see. I will also check the brochures I have home to see if they mention anything.
The below link also provides some info, cannot guarantee its accuracy though.#

FD Models

Yeah there are quite a few bits in the link that are not quite right. I have the original brochure for my car, all 2001-2002 R Bathursts come with the adjustable Showa shocks. I haven't got around to scanning it yet, it's on my to-do pile.......I'll get around to it at some point :).

Here's the press release for the Type R Bathurst:

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4255/3...95b21a51_z.jpgtyperbathurst by Tom Kinsman, on Flickr

The Type R Bathurst also features in the end of the Spirit R Brochure, if you translate it, it tells you that it's fitted with the adjustable shocks, album link below :icon_tup:.

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I didn't really take any decent pictures, but I had the rear bumper off the car this weekend to check everything over and to ensure there are no surprises during the respray. Painted the number plate bracket and steel parts of the crash protection while I was there. I'm pretty happy with it all now, she's ready for new paint in July :cool:.

Fresh from Japan, arrived this morning :cool:.

For what I had to shell out for these, you'd think they would have washed them :rolleyes:. They're filth, but I snapped a pic anyway.

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Genuine Spirit R type A goodness, got some spacers to go on too. Now I can fit my brakes :cool:.:icon_tup:

Already done & refurbished Gordon ;).

I will not be using the drilled rotors, though. Just OEM blanks :icon_tup:.

Yeah they're good brakes, I had them on my last FD too :). I'll be honest, I'm upgrading the brakes solely for looks, the smaller brakes just don't look as cool ;).

Better pics of the wheels. They're not perfect, there are a couple of small stone chips, not bad enough to warrant a refurb, though. I'll try and find a paint match to touch them up with.

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Had the wings off over the weekend to check for any potential issues prior to paint. I painted the inside of the wings and the body behind the wing with epoxy mastic. I probably should have used a little more thinner as some of the brush strokes stayed, although I'm not overly concerned as they're all hidden when the wing is on and it's got a decent thick coat that'll protect it well :cool:. All the front cavities were also injected with Dinitrol 3125 while I was there. Also converted all the arch liner mounting points to rivnuts just because I can.

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I'll tackle re-finishing the arch itself when I do the bushes and brakes later this year.

I then got a little distracted and started pulling the interior. I was supposed to be removing a few bits at the edges so I could mask the door shuts for paint easy, ended up with this:

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I had to cut the alarm out as the wires went all over the place. I'll make nice looms with connectors this week so that if the dash has to come out again It'll be a more straightforward job.

More cavity injection, this car is in such good condition that doing this work now is easy and will protect it well.

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The main reason I pulled the dash and carpet was to sew up a cut someone had made in the passenger footwell which was really bugging me. As the late cars have a different carpet, I definitely wanted to fix it as sourcing another would not be easy. The repair is quite high and is very nearly invisible.

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I couldn't see any reason as to why someone would have pulled the carpet, so I can only assume it got wet at some point and was pulled to dry.


Next week the fun starts.

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Cheers Gordon.

The floor and anywhere I was concerned about possibly trapping water has been painted with epoxy mastic before putting on the Silent Coat. I didn't take pics, but I also dropped the head liner, removed the foam and put up some Silent Coat sheets. I haven't finished the bins or rear of the car yet, will likely do this after the car is sprayed. Just needed to get the carpet and dash back in so I can drive it over to the garage where I'm spraying it.

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The carpet repair is 100% invisible when fitted, very happy with that :D:cool:. Will take some pics of that later. I'm hoping my connectors for the alarm loom will turn up today so I can pop the dash back in tonight.

I'm not sure what to do about sound deadening the doors as being a post September 2001 car, mine has the great big girders in the doors for side impact protection. I am tempted to sound deaden the door card itself, might do the job and make the card feel a bit more quality? Any thoughts?

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man that is a lot of work.

I like the sound deaden and would put it on the door card.

Yeah, hopefully should make her a little quieter on the highway :).

I went to refit the dash in when I got back from work today. But couldn't bring myself to fit that rusty dash support bar :rolleyes:. So...Dash came apart, dash support bar was rust converted and then painted with epoxy. While that was drying I rewired the alarm and serviced the power windows (They're super quick & smooth now!). Dash is now back in the car and she runs, so all good, just needs the seats back in and it's ready for paint :cool::icon_tup:.

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Damn thats ALOT of work.. Good for you man.

where did you get the stainless pistons with rebuild kit for the rear calipers? will they fit 93-95?

So this was my first attempt at spraying a car, I sanded it back to the factory primer, blocked the whole car until flat. Fixed a few minor issues then laid on some 2k primer, fresh innocent blue mica and lots of coats of clear to hopefully keep her looking good for a long time, here are some pics :icon_tup:.

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After wet sanding:

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New wheels, emblems and rubber on. I have new "Mazda" and "Rx-7" badges, not sure whether to fit them or not.

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Thanks Gordon, she's nearly where I want her :). Just brakes, exhaust and new seats to go now. I've got all the parts with the exception of the SR seats.

I'm not sure which badge you mean? I have the new oe badges of the ones in the below pic:


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Very nice paint job Tom! Like having a brand new car, the detailing work gone into this car is enormous. Love how the fuel tank cap and surroundings look so new :)
I would have put the rear badges on, completes the oem look.

Cheers guys, I am leaning towards putting the badges on as per standard I think. I don't want to get too inventive, trying to keep her looking pretty original. I was just deciding whether to run them or to keep it with just the Mazda badge. After running it without for a week or so I think it does look like it is missing something with just the Mazda badge. If I get some time tonight I'll get them on.

Pedals arrived from Matt today, very impressed, great match to the oem pedals and the fitment is ace. I haven't cleaned my original pedals, they're not that far off tbh and they'll wear in :icon_tup:.

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WP_20170905_17_39_25_Pro by Tom Kinsman, on Flickr