Originally Posted by rx72c
(Post 9219279)
Move your jet to pre turbo.Post turbo is no were near as effective.
And honestly. Distilled water? are people on this forums serious? i just run filtered water ( i get it for free from a buddies house. lives in a recording studio and all the cold runing water in the house is filtered, even if they water the grass. lol ) |
I use normal tap water here in aus. NO WORRIES.
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I have the FJO kit and I'm in the process of installing it now, just trying to decide where to put all the components and I'm also looking for a tank to use. If anyone has any suggestions please feel free to tell me. This is going on an FD btw.
Also, a thread I started a while back with similiar information... https://www.rx7club.com/auxiliary-injection-173/ai-setup-do-you-use-why-817631/ |
Check out usplastics.com they have great prices on containers. Like 10 dollars for a the typical container that would come with a kit. They are very well built too, i pressurize mine to over 20 psi regularly.
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Originally Posted by rx72c
(Post 9221144)
I use normal tap water here in aus. NO WORRIES.
The odd time if I'm gasing up and water is low, I grab a litre from the store and top off the tank though. Just a convience thing basically. My car runs a snowperformance kit, "stage 2" :lol: progressive controller. currently in the car is the 380cc nozzle mounted in TB elbow inlet (FC guy here) 150psi pump, not the big daddy 220something. pump and tank mounted under right headlight, tank is custom, ~2.2L capacity. Tank will last approx. one tank of fuel with a heavy foot. With a light foot it obviously lasts forever HAHA Also, like anthony I do run a mix of either meth, or washer fluid towards the colder parts of our year to avoid any icing down there. Car made 380whp last year on a SHAT tune with a SHAT turbine and a SHAT ecu only revving to 5900RPM :lol: The best part though, at 380whp, it made 330ft/lbs TQ. Perhaps alot had to do with the stock ports, but the water IMO is certainly raising torque. You can't compress it, so you're running slightly higher dynamic compression when its spraying. This year after many changes - EGT's at redline (around 8K) are about 875C @ 20psi from the T04-R with the WI. I should likely switch back to my larger nozzle to control them, but haven't started tinkering yet. |
Originally Posted by rx72c
(Post 9219279)
Move your jet to pre turbo.Post turbo is no were near as effective.
And honestly. Distilled water? are people on this forums serious? it is pre turbo. i just run filtered form a buddies house. its fun. |
Originally Posted by Dudemaaanownsanrx7
(Post 9225415)
Check out usplastics.com they have great prices on containers. Like 10 dollars for a the typical container that would come with a kit. They are very well built too, i pressurize mine to over 20 psi regularly.
here is the link? http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pro...oduct_id=14120 |
Yes thats the link. You can get them with or without i water nipple coming off of them. I got mine without and just tapped my own fittings in there.
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Thanks guys! I was looking at the site last night. I'll have to pick something up soon. Thanks again!
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What nozzles are the coolingmist guys running for what hp?
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I would say 100cc per 100 hp works out pretty well. I'm running 500cc pre turbo at around 500 hp.before that i ran 380 cc for mid 400's.
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at 500rwhp i would be running 600cc.
I like abit extra. |
I need to figure out what volume I'm injecting, I'm using an Aquamist 1S system with the 0.9mm nozzle and their old-school pump.
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Good info. That sounds about right. Based on this, we should establish what a/fs to tune for a certain boost increments. There are already a/f guidelines set up for non a/i pump gas boost pressures. We now need some for a/i.
Originally Posted by Dudemaaanownsanrx7
(Post 9286327)
I would say 100cc per 100 hp works out pretty well. I'm running 500cc pre turbo at around 500 hp.before that i ran 380 cc for mid 400's.
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I just tune about the same afr's but run higher boost. I like to keep it on the conservative side and let the boost make the power
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Well I mean, usually when you raise boost, you richen it up as well. Most non-a/i guys run at around 10.5-10.9 A/Fs at 15PSI. Im running 11.5ish A/Fs at the same boost pressure due to my 315cc's of water.
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Originally Posted by WaachBack
(Post 9291733)
Well I mean, usually when you raise boost, you richen it up as well. Most non-a/i guys run at around 10.5-10.9 A/Fs at 15PSI. Im running 11.5ish A/Fs at the same boost pressure due to my 315cc's of water.
Here it is http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f160...ml#post1045017 Tuning and miscellaneous notes on water injection: Always keep in mind that water injection is being used to suppress knock and permit tuning AFR to its maximum power levels. Water in excess of the amount needed for a safe knock suppression margin will hurt net output. Not leaning AFR enough or leaning it too much can result in decreased power levels. The relationship that you should seek to manage with water injection is the ratio of water to fuel. Metered to exacting proportions as little as 3% water to fuel can replace the amount of heat absorption that fuel previously provided when leaning from 10:1 to 12:1 AFR. Also, this one is pretty interesting. http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost/intake/WI.htm |
Opps hit post too fast.
"We've seen that excess fuel is traditionally used as in-cylinder coolant. We've also seen here that water is a much better alternative for this purpose, since its latent heat is 6 -7 times higher than fuel (energy absorbed as the tiny droplets evaporate) Latent heat of fuel = 350KJ/kg Latent heat of Methanol = 1109 Kg/kJ Latent heat of water = 2256KJ/kg It appears that all you need is 3% water/fuel to replace two points of AFR (10.5-12.5). There is no performance gains in going richer than 12.5:1, and a lot less mass of water is needed to cool things down." (sorry if this is already well known information.) |
^^ Makes sense.
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Originally Posted by WaachBack
(Post 9292147)
^^ Makes sense.
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Originally Posted by WaachBack
(Post 9291733)
Well I mean, usually when you raise boost, you richen it up as well. Most non-a/i guys run at around 10.5-10.9 A/Fs at 15PSI. Im running 11.5ish A/Fs at the same boost pressure due to my 315cc's of water.
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For people using water only.
Dont go leaning it out while adding water. Keep it rich. Have a good ignition system. Thats the key to reliability. Your not trying to subtract fuel for the amount of water added. This is the mistake alot of people make. ITS NOT METHANOL. |
Did you read the article above? Because it states you do the exact opposite and it actually makes a lot of sense.
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Originally Posted by rx72c
(Post 9293493)
For people using water only.
Dont go leaning it out while adding water. Keep it rich. Have a good ignition system. Thats the key to reliability. Your not trying to subtract fuel for the amount of water added. This is the mistake alot of people make. ITS NOT METHANOL. |
WaachBack
Mate i dont care for stupid internet articles. I have done alot of wi tuning and MY REAL LIFE experience has shown me that pulling out fuel and replacing it with water is not using the power of water correctly. And pushing the envelope you will end up with a dead engine. Im not going to argue with you, my experience has shown me lean mixtures only net good gains with weak ignition or STUPIDLY high amounts of water. Other wise running low 11s high 10s is a good place to be. |
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