This is especially informative to everyone doing wire in DIY installs. Often mis understood and the root of a lot of issues. Its so much of an issue with sensor grounds that the new modular ecu can now detect it on its own and alert you...

https://blog.turbosource.com/2017/02...by-adaptronic/

 

Would I be correct in assuming this is not as imapritive to PnP ECU users?

 

imapritive?

 

imperative* - on the PnP units. I would assume that the PnP (normal) engine harness should have all the sufficient grounds already - but I could be wrong

 

PNP units are usually find unless you have a broken ground ( seen it before a couple times).

 

Speaking of grounds, what are some of the different ways people share the sensor ground? Looking for the most effective and also visually appealing.

 

I may have to revise my grounding. I am using the stock B2200 ground wires and ground points for the ECU, which I am pretty sure grounds to the cab behind the instrument cluster, in a star ground like described in the article. However, the engine grounds to the inner fender, then on to the battery from there with a single wire.

 

Photos aren't loading in the linked article, so I'm not 100% sure I've got my Adaptronic 440d ECU grounds wired correctly. Can someone confirm?

IGN-1a coil pin B is wired to ECU pin 2C sensor ground.
IGN-1a coil pin C and D are combined and grounded to housing with 14-gauge ground wire.
Coolant, IAT, TPS sensors wired to ECU pin 2D sensor ground.
ECU pins 2A and 2B both wired to firewall.
0-gauge ground wire from battery to chassis.
2-gauge ground wire from front crossmember to chassis.
4-gauge ground wire from bell housing to firewall.

 

C is to each individual housing i.e. front coils to front housing, rear coils to rear housing
D should go straight to battery.

I have also seen people ground pin B and D to body/common ground.

Rest are correct.

 

So for D, since I have a REPU with a rear-mounted battery, I should still run a ground wire all the way back to the battery? I don't even get power from the battery once the truck is running. I have the factory ammeter connected which monitors current from the wire between the battery and fuse box. The alternator is charging the battery at all times so current flows to the battery. The only exception to this is briefly when the electric fan turns on the ammeter will flicker with current flowing the opposite direction until the alternator's regulator adjusts its output.

 

This is what the AEM diagram says, and this is how I wired mine. My battery is mounted in the FD rear bins.
I have read that the 3 different grounds make a difference or have a purpose. They all reference different things for different purposes.
As I also stated I have seen people ignore the diagram and still work.