Hey guys, I’m about to install my Adaptronic eMod012 for the first time and was hoping to get some experts to clarify a few things . The goal here is to wire in the existing AEM UEGO O2 sensor that’s already installed in the car, but not wired yet to the ECU.
According to the sensor manual, the analog 0-5V output from the wideband controller is the white (+) and brown (-) wires:

According to the eMod012 Pinout Sheet, pin 3D is the factory narrowband O2 sensor input, and pin 3B is the spare O2 sensor input, all use the sensor ground at pin 3AB:

Is it recommended to disable the OEM O2 sensor by cutting the wire at pin 3D, and connecting it to the white wire on the UEGO O2 sensor, and splicing the brown wire on the UEGO O2 sensor to the wire at pin 3AB?

Once that is done, I simply change the O2 Sensor 1 settings from narrowband to the AEM UEGO preset?




Thanks in advance guys!

 

 

Thanks $lacker, I had that in mind as well. Do you know how to enable the spare O2 input in Eugene? Or is it automatic once it detects the sensor?

Also, where can I buy the terminals to connect to the spare inputs?

 

Not sure how to enable the secondary input - my WB uses a serial connection, so it is hooked up with a separate cable

I just ordered the terminals last week. I got a few things at once, but I'm pretty sure the ones I used on the ECU were these: https://www.digikey.ca/product-detai...1CT-ND/5419463
I'll check later to confirm

IMHO Adaptronic should include a handful of terminals with the package (or offer them for 50c each or whatever at purchase)

 

In related news, to make a cable to hook up to the serial connections of the Adaptronic (not that this is helpful to you at the moment), you need this connector: https://www.digikey.ca/product-detai...1784-ND/252497 and these terminals: https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...37CT-ND/467810

 

Thanks a bunch! I actually have plenty of these terminals (TE) at work and I'll see if they fit tonight. Hopefully someone can chime in on how to activate the second O2 input

 

Just got in from the garage, and yes those gold-tipped ones are what I'm using
Just started my car on the Modular PNP for the first time and it idles great

 

Anyone else have input on this?
I'm trying to plug the UEGO (Bosch) sensor into my Adaptronic and am facing the same issue.

Alternatively, has anyone just replaced the original O2 Sensor with a Bosch sensor, in the stock location, splicing/using the original (harness side) wiring?

Any help would be appreciated!

 

Hi Everyone,

Sorry to hear you have all been having troubles. I have used with success many AEM widebands the UEGO and X series.

The best method by far is to use the Serial communication.

This is the blue wire on all of the AEM wideband gauges. The inherit problem with AEM is they do not provide a 4 pin molex connector like the Innovate does but that is no issue. You simply purchase an Innovate 3846 cable which can be purchased through my website or like summit racing. The 3846 cable has four wires to it and you only use one of the wires - The White Wire.

Connect the blue wire from the AEM to the White Wire on the Innovate Motorsports 3846 cable.

Here are the instructions for the ECU settings from my website - www.tunedbyshawn.com

Adaptronic ECU users:

For best experience with the AEM products its highly recommend to connect the AEM wideband to the Adaptronic ECU via the AEM serial output wire. We recommend purchasing the Innovate 3846 cable and cutting one end off and connecting it to the white wire on the innovate cable. You an also refer to the picture that is uploaded to the picture section of this specific product.

Once the wideband is connected via serial to the ECU you will open up Eugene while connected to the adaptronic ecu and go to the inputs tab, then select O2 / Lambda Sensors, click on O2 Sensor 1 or 2 (depending on your configuration there may be 2) change the connection to serial only, then click show under the serial In 1 setting option. Change the connection to AEM UEGO. Now you should be able view AFR/Lambda values in the Eugene software.


Cheers,

Shawn Christenson
Tuned By Shawn

 

Feel free to post your file on here and I'll configure it for you.

White = 3D
Brown = Ground (3AB)
Black = Ground (Chassis Ground, Engine Ground, etc.)
Red = Fused +12v Power
The Remaining Wires (Blue, Green/Black, White/Black) will just need to be terminated separately as to not touch each other and DO NOT CONNECT to anything. Analog is awesome. Just run it like this.

Just to clarify, you do NOT need a Narrowband Sensor as well, and you will simply connect the AEM UEGO to the ECU as White (3D), Brown (3AB) and Black (Chassis Ground), and +12v Fused to somewhere on the fusebox that gains power under ignition ACC or ignition ON.

ECU Configured Under Custom 2-Point Table for:

• 0.5v = 8.5 AFR
• 4.5v = 18 AFR

If you have any questions, email me. RGHTBrainDesign@Gmail.com
Cheers.

 

Fyi the stock O2 sensor plug is an Econoseal J Mark II series. Easy to crimp using this type of tool: #1026 CT - Open Barrel Contact Five Cavity Crimp Tool | SARGENT Tools

Cycle Terminal and Eastern Beaver sell the connector kits if you don't want to go digging for part numbers.

 

Shawn, did you ever have luck connecting an AEM unit serially with a Select ECU? We tried this years ago (still on WARI), and even with Andy/Mark's help it never worked out. We've just used the analog input, but I'm curious if it was just a problem early on in the WARI/Select maturity; obviously both are obsolete now so my curiosity just has the better of me.

 

Works great if you use the same method with a 3812 cable. Make sure you are on the most recent firmware.

Also I want to state again I highly recommend AGAINST using the analog connection. Also you do not have to cut into the factory wiring or splice into the ECU ground..

Cheers,

Shawn Christenson

 

do not connect the power ground to the sensor ground on the adaptronic! This will cause a mess of problems with the adaptronic!!! Psa do not connect this way!!

 

All though I highly recommend against using the analog input the proper wiring would be the following -

White = 3d
brown = ground Shared with the other sensor grounds (3ab)
black = ground shared with the ECU power ground 1L
red = 12v power shared with ecu pin 4A


Cheers,

Shawn Christenson

 

AEM X-Line wire connections - Only ones used are the Power (red) Ground (Black) Serial out (Blue)

cut the ends of the wires that are not used

Cut the end off the Innovate 3846 cable - The only wire used on the innovate cable is the the Serial input wire (White)

I prefer a good crimp with a proper crimping tool. (Note you can buy a decent crimping tool for under $25.00 on amazon that will work for most enthusiasts.)

To finish it off use some 4:1 shrink wrap with a glue adhesive lining to seal every thing up nicely. As for the power and ground. You can ground the gauge to the chassis and the best method would be to use a relay to power up the gauge with OEM Recommend fuse.

 

I hooked mine up via analog output as I read the serial output is not as fast, can't say for sure if that's true but here is where I found that information: https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...alog-vs-Serial

 

I disagree with this as Andy did testing with about 8 different manufacture widebands when developing the integrated wideband module and from what I saw the best was Motec CAN wideband was around 20MS response and the adaptronic internal lambda module was just slightly slower than it. Note this test was done at the Haltech Headquarters in their gas chamber.

Cheers,

Shawn Christenson

 

Some more info: https://forum.efilive.com/showthread...l=1#post236426

I don't have a good enough understanding of data transfer to confirm or deny this statement, the manual doesn't seem to explicitly state how many bits are sent per second over the serial output.

https://www.aemelectronics.com/files...ns/30-0300.pdf (last page)

 

Just to clarify, I was running the AEM x-series wideband with the adaptronic, connected via serial, and it would read 20AFR first 10 seconds of start up on the adaptronic. The AEM gauge read correct always. Anyways this issue would set off ECU safeties. Shawn can tell you more about it.. Not sure if adaptronic fixed it or not, but I'm jumping over to Haltech.

 

Just tuned a car on an AEM with Analog Today configured exactly as I said.

Sure, you can split the ground, it IS better that way. I'll correct my post above.

Analog is faster and with the table as I explained you correct the improperly imported data from Adaptronic to a very simple 2-Point voltage curve. Does anyone require pictures or a short video of this? I'd be happy to showcase it.

I'll upload a quick video of the car in action:

 

It is fixed you simply set the AFR protection in the appropriate areas to 147 and that resolves that issue.

 

I still advise not grounding the gauge through the sensor ground this has a HIGH potential to cause a mess of issues... I am happy it worked out for you but you are opening up a possible mess if not catastrophic issue by wiring it up this way.

Thanks,

Shawn Christenson

 

Just sharing some knowledge I've gained from others. I advise against AEM or Innovate etc, they burn up sensors. Chris Ludwig, who is a very smart dude, had a chat with me about it. I think the Adaptronic O2 sensor does a good job not killing the sensor and I was told the Haltech does a great job too. That's probably because Adaptronic used Haltech's tech.

 

Listen to Shawn. Don't mix grounds.

There is a reason why they are separate. Just cause your car spins in the wet doesn't make it ok.