So the TII vert is coming along nicely. I've gotten her cleaned up a little and am working out all the kinks here and there. I'm using the s4 vert harness and ecu, so all the right connectors are extended, blah blah blah.

Question 1. Where does this go?



It's a bracket for the throttle cable. It's about 6" from the firewall, and I can't figure out where it's supposed to bolt to. I found the one that bolts above the alternator, but not that one.

Question 2. Which one's which! I got this motor already pulled, and I don't know which one of these fuel lines is the supply and which one's the return!?!?!



So here's the current picture, in case anyone cares. Yay. Another TII in a NA car. Isn't it wonderful. (sarcasm)



Nowhere near done.

 

Top of uim for throttle cable f-right intercooler bracket.

Trace the fuel lines via haynes or chiltons, i forget the exact routing, but its in one of the manuals. (no help at all, i know)

Good to see some more t2 swapped na s. You keeping na trans?

Keep at it, you are doing a hell of a job.

John ny

 

Nope. I got such a smokin deal on the s4 TII drivetrain that I just bought it all. $400 for the engine, transmission, driveshaft, turbo, intercooler, sensors, A/C compressor, ps pump, and a cut harness.

I tried figuring out the schematic I saw, and couldn't trace it too easily. It goes under a bunch of **** and I get lost.

And thanks john. Always good to hear I'm not f'ing it up!

 

Slide the cable bracket that you have attached near the alternator down the cable and attach it to one of the UIM mounting bolts, then attach the one in question to the alt spot. You have the cable routed under the upper rad hose. I think it goes over it.

 

for fuel lines look and see which one has the filter on it

 

The fuel line that attaches to the filter is of course the supply line to the engine.

The three hard lines are 99% configured like this: I have seen only once where the two bottom lines were switched left to right, and it was a series 4. But most series4 follow the outline below.

Looking directly into the openings of the hardlines:

&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;O <---Charcoal canister
fuel supply --->O &nbsp; O <---- Fuel Return

 

BTW you can actually run a n/a throttle cable on a TII throttle body, it's kind of a tight fit, but it works and doesn't get in the way of anything. I prefer to do it that way now.

 

Fuellines are like so.

The fuel damperner is the receiving side of the fuel rail.(the fuel regulator look-a-like thingy without the nipple)


The return side: is the side with the fuel press regulator(has a nipple for vacuum)

 

you should get a t2 ecu...

 

The S4 vert ecu (N338) has code to run both NA and turbo engines.

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/ecutype.html

 

Exactly what I was looking for! I already had the charcoal canister hooked up, just needed to know which steel line was the supply/return. Of course the one with the filter is the supply... that kind of goes without saying. But that's the rubber hose, and it doesn't do me much good when they're, well, disconnected

87 t-66, I was going to. But for some reason everyone thinks that their TII ecu is worth the price of a car. A little exaggerated, but you get the point. I'm not paying $200 for an ecu when the one I already have will work. Plus, if I need to, I'll get some larger injectors and fine-tune it with the SAFC. Every Rx7 needs at least a wideband and some way of fiddling with air-fuel ratios, and I've had them both on the car for about 4 years.

 

got mine for 50 bucks

 

But what about the flow meter and map sensor?

 

You use the TII sensors. A number of people have done it sucessfully, including ReTed and Icemark. Do a search for "N338".

I don't use my N338 in my turbo swapped vert since pocketlogger doesn't offer rtek7 chips for it, but in a car w/ stock injectors (or an AFC) it'd be fine.

 

Yeah, this has been covered many, many times. But it's always good to inform some more people, so we'll discuss it again.

Rumor about convertible ecu?

So since it's an N338 ecu, it works just the same as any turbo ecu. (N33x model) So you have to use the turbo sensors with it, i.e. the MAF, MAP, variable resistor, etc. Then, if you want to use the knock sensor, you need the knock box from a turbo. N/A coils and igniters are the same, as well as the CAS.



How about the radiator? My vert radiator seems to be the exact same dimensions as the TII, except the TII radiator is stock, and has plastic tanks, and my vert has an aftermarket replacement one, but it's got metal tanks. Should I stick with the convertible one?

OH! And anyone mind taking a detailed pic of the passenger's side of their engine where the air control valve is? I have a bunch of vacuum hoses missing. All the diagrams are terrible, and I can't figure out where half of them go. God I bet this question gets asked alot, but I can never find it when searching.

 

See what kind of temperatures you get with your current radiator, since it's already a replacement. I had the original plastic tank radiator in my vert, but the water/oil temps were a little high sometimes after turbo swapping, so I installed a koyo for peace of mind. My temps have never gone over 195F since.

Here's a pic that should give you an idea of how to hook up the vac lines by the ACV. Note that the line to the BOV is not attached yet.

 

Does the one directly under the BAC go to the MAP sensor?

 

I used my n/a radiator on my t2... worked just fine..

radiators are fine no need to swap them at all..

 

Got a little more done. Good to know about the radiator. I wasn't sure if the TII radiator I got with the drivetrain was the wrong one or not, but knowing now that I have a spare is always good!

Is the heater hose different for a TII as well? I'm finding more and more **** that has to get modified with this swap. For some reason, the heater hose that goes from the driver's side of the engine to the firewall won't fit. It's almost like there should be a 90' elbow, but I got one... that makes it interfere with the slave cylinder. Is there some kind of weird routing I should know about, or is it just a weird hose?

 

the links in ur sig are awesome!!

 

The part numbers for the hoses are different for N/A vs TII. Go here and scroll down a bit:

http://www.mazdatrix.com/bhose2.htm

 

yes but they will work.. I never changed any of my hoses when I did my T2 swap.. and all of mine worked just fine.

 

Stock TII's have a bolting location on the brake block to help support the long cable.

I just pushed the thing aside and used the mounting point up near the alternator on the engine hoist loop/bracket.

 

Yeah, the line under the BAC, runs over to the boost sensor.

And I was able to use the same driverside heater hose when I swapped. You can get it to clear the slave cylinder.

Digi7ech:
I've been wondering where that cable bracket was really supposed to go as well. Mine is just sitting by the P/S pump since there's nothing to bolt it to on the NA. I used to own a TII, but I couldn't remember where it went either. Of course, I've seen tons of TIIs with the brackets bolted in random places too.

 

i dont have my charcoal canister hooked up would that be a problem? I just have the fuel lines hooked up filter----->lower fuel rail and upper fuel rail to return line. the hardline from the charcoal canister is unhooked.