just my two cents, but it looks like you honestly have too much body putty on it. Did you bang the sheet metal out far enough and then use a dolly to get it in spec? If not you won't have a good paint there. It will deform and crack within a couple of months. I have a few pictures of the body work I did. unfortunatly I didn't take pictures through out, but I did get it molded right. Here's some shots. Enjoy.
Sorry I only have the primered shots. The background is that there was about an 1x1x2 inch dent right on the corner. I pulled it, got it in spec and filled it and shaped it. Took me about 2 hours or so to get it all done right, but here's what i'm talking about:




Although significantly smaller than your repair you may have wished to use a stud gun and slide hammer. same effect, less holes.

 

Thats a real nice job u did there lax, yeah I know I wish I could of used a stud gun but I didnt have access to it...I had to use what I had....looks like u had the right tools for the job, I did the best I could with pulling it and hammering it back to at least kinda normal.

Like I said before I'm not a body repair expert, and this is my first time doing something like this. So no matter what you think icemark or anyone else, I did a dam fine job of getting it back to somewhat normal to what it compared to before, for not knowing anything about bondo work or anything like that. The car was already totaled, so no loss there.

I don't know whats up you *** about me but almost every thread I post ur there putting my **** down and telling me ur gonna delete my thread or ban me. I dont give a **** what you do, **** you. Mr. high and ******* mighty moderator. That **** you guys post wasn't even aimed towards you, so why don't you **** off and choke on a dick thanks.

 

^ Uh oh. IBTL/B!

 

So he is fixing HIS fc, get over it. BFD, some bondo, cut the noob some slack. SOME people of power around the 7club here seem to forget what it is like being a noob. Thumbs up for diy repairs, even if it isnt perfect all you can do is to try and do your best.

 

no

 

Oh sure, don't listen to those who've been there/done that and know what they're talking about. As long as you do your best, no matter what the consequences, that's all that counts.

 

snap..

:AA:

 

lol more beef than a brazilian barbeque.

i think the thread starter just doesn't appreciate that his hard work he was trying to show off in pride got shot the **** down.

i'd be pretty upset too.

but you did do a good job putting it together, so i have nothing negative to say. better than i can do with body work.

 

ya dude, im with lax-rotor. i know what happens with WAY too much bondo, my little 77 datsun 280z was like that, pisses me off to no end to think of why they didnt do it right. you should have just cut a new piece from a donor shell and welded the stuff. sorry, but i find it poor body work when people repair with bondo. i mean, its filler, not magic in a can.
just my 2 cents, i work on cars doing everything for a living, i would have done it right the first time.
but, for doing it yourself, great job (just weld it next time please)

peace

 

i think you did pretty good considering this is your first time out doing this type of thing. you could always take it to a body shop just to ask them how this looks.

 

Okay, I decided to post the tips DriftingB26RX7 wanted me to here for everyone to chime in or make fun of .

My repair job like that is my first body repair I've ever done on the RX7 but it's definatly the best one i've done so far. So take everything I say with a grain of salt. Those that have done body work before feel free to chime in with your $0.02 and tell me my advice is all wrong.

Preperation:

1. Do not work on body work in direct sunlight.
2. Do remove all rust and paint from the surface of the repair
3. Do form the metal as close as possible to the original shape (within mm of the original)
4. Do make sure the metal is mm below the original form

That's the starting list. Most body repair products do not respond well to UV light and should not be worked on in such. Work in a garage out of direct sunlight and weather exposure. This will prevent unnecessary moisture as well as direct sun light exposure when you're working with two part body fillers and epoxies.

If you used an old fashioned slide hammer to remove the dents and form it right you run the chance of turning your car into swiss cheese. Becareful and don't use it to the extreme. Every hole you put in is a chance for rust to come in and eat away at the metal. Try to remove as many of the creses as possible using a hammer and dolley. That will save alot of metal. If you don't have access to a studgun and you have to use a slide hammer make sure you can weld the excess holes and fill in major gaps.

With respect to your specific repair DriftingB26RX7, you may want to remove all the filler and patch that excessively large hole above the light. Do not just fill that hole with body filler and shape. you want the least amount of body filler possible. any hole through metal bigger than a quarter inch will need a re-inforcment; preferably a new welded piece of metal, secondary a wire patch anchored in. once that's done get a nice rough grit sand paper to roughen the metal so the body filler has something to grab to.

Please note: bondo body filler is not usually a good body filler to use. You have to use professional quality stuff. I was stuck using bondo but i didn't use the green cheap stuff, I had to shell out a couple extra bucks and get the professional filler from them. Although there are better quality fillers besides that. Go use those when and where possible.

once you have the metal in the shape you want it you'll need lots of sand paper, a cheese grater (the car tool, not the cooking one), sanding blocks, tape, primer, paint, and body knives.

Apply thin layers of filler. when I say thin, I mean a thin layer of body filler, no more than a few mm thick. Get it as close to the body form as possible. Once it's set take out the cheese grater and shape it to exactly what the body looks like. It will be extrememly rough, but it will look alright. once you've done that take a sanding block and start sanding it once it's hard(er). This will give it it's final form. once you think it's finished run your hand over it with your eyes closed. If you can feel where the body filler starts and the body ends you don't have enough filler in. If it's really close you can try to layer up the primer, or you can use glazing compound to fill in the dips.

once the repair is up to spec run you hand over it. Make sure. If it passes that test spray a light contrast of primer on it. Spray with regular primer making sure it's even covering. sand again. if you see the contrast showing through after sanding you'll need to build up the other spots. spray another layer of primer and repeat. you shouldn't see any contrast primer once it's done correctly.

Take a tack cloth between the different paint steps to ensure secure connection with the body, filler, and exsisting paint. once it's flat and even, spray paint on it. If you don't you still have a nice big risk of it getting rusted undearneath the primer because primer is porus. It will let water in. Spray it, even if it's just temporary, with a good quality paint.

Those are just general body working tips.

DriftingB26RX7, I'm more concerned about the rigidity of the back end on there for you. Seems to me the accident redifined the location of the light housing. Make sure you get it as close as spec there and paint it again (not just primer).

I think that's it for right now. Good luck.

 

nope, thats about all. i just think that a donor car should have been used. its alot easier, cleaner, and ultimately cheaper.
but great job, and that is perfect advice!

peace

 

lax, thanks alot that helps. I tryed to weld the holes in but my shitty 90 amp mig sat at the lowest setting just burns holes. As for the moisture problem I was thinking about spraying the inside with a thick primer coat...I believe that should keep moisture out. And about the whole rigidity I was gonna put a cage into it and put supports comming from the cage to the body.

 

Primer is porus, it will still let moisture in. You need paint.

 

ok so then should I primer then pant it? I also got a cheese grater, I have a general Idea about using it. Are there any trix to it?

 

 

Sorry I have been running around with my head cut off...yes it was messy, but don't worry I got it back on just in time.

On the interrior it doesn't really matter if you use primer or not, you won't have people looking at it eyeballing every imperfection on there will they? But it's your paint and primer if you feel it necessary do it.

Cheese grater you want a very rough shape. Don't expect it to be perfect. In mine I didn't have a cheese grater on hand so I had to improvise (i used a piece of card board). All you want is a rough shape. Remember it's easier to take off than put back on. so once you get it in the right shape (long strokes are better than short strokes as it makes blending a hell of a lot easier) break out the sanding blocks. Get it near perfect if you can. then apply the primer build it up and take it down and repeat.

Now if there isn't enough filler you'll know, and you'll have to wait a little bit and let it harden, rough it with a little sanding and then apply more using the body spatulas. Then well.. you know.