Write up: How to relocate your brake booster hose
11 Attachment(s)
So this is my first write up so go easy on me. This mod is purely for aesthetics. I hate the look of the hardline crossing the wall so this shortens it and tucks it behind the UIM.
Important things to know -The vacuum supply should be tapped after the throttle body - there is a check valve so the brake booster doesn't get pressurized Supplies 1/4" npt to 3/8" barb 3/8"barb to 3/8" barb tools pliers dill/drill press 7/16" drill bit 1/4" npt tap 1/2" socket/rachet (optional) welder or jb weld or nipple cap Fittings can be found at home depot. it was less than 5 bucks Attachment 723360 first remove the hardline. replace the hardline with the barb to barb fitting to connect the hoses Attachment 723361 Attachment 723362 Attachment 723363 now get a 7/16" drill bit Attachment 723364 I chose to drill in the back of the UIM right above the 2 vacuum line sources (i cut mine off) Attachment 723365 Attachment 723366 http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/IMAG0320.jpg now get the 1/4"npt tap Attachment 723367 because the UIM gets in the way of the tap tool i used a 1/2" socket, and tap all the way through (use cutting oil, i just used some wd40) Attachment 723368 Attachment 723369 Attachment 723370 |
5 Attachment(s)
now sit back and admire your threaded UIM!
Attachment 723371 wrap the fitting with some teflon tap and screw the fitting in (15mm i believe) Attachment 723372 (white-ish hole on the bottom, the dark hole is from an emission delete) Attachment 723373 Now connect the hose to the fitting and slide the clip over the hose to secure it. Attachment 723374 Attachment 723375 Lastly you can either weld, jb weld, or cover the vacuum source with a nipple enjoy! (sorry no final pic, engines still apart) |
1 Attachment(s)
I did something similar.. For block off the old port I cut the fitting off flush, then tapped threads and inserted an allen head plug with some teflon tape on.
Attachment 723376 |
that'll work too!
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in that pic is that TPS positioned backwards?
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On my pic yes it is.
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There might a reason why mazda put the bung closer to the intake port. I am wondering if worked ok and no issue with breaking? I was thinking of doing the same thing.
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Only reason they put it there is it's a short one small rubber hose run to the brake booster on a RHD car. The 2nd gen turbos have the brake booster hook up on the back of the intake manifold near the throttle body, similar to where Ben put his.
BTW, you want to make SURE you have a solid connection, if this comes off or fails you'll have a VERY hard brake pedal and this can be a big safety issue. Also, use the OEM hose, the hose on the brake booster side has a built in check valve. Dale |
For those with a relocated AIT, what about a fitting for the OEM location AIT sensor bung? A barbed 90 would work.
Good write-up btw Bubs ;) |
I did it but have not installed the UIM back yet... Am pretty sure it will work...
Just donīt forget to put a check valve in the line... |
Originally Posted by DaleClark
(Post 11087080)
Also, use the OEM hose, the hose on the brake booster side has a built in check valve.
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^Benny says this in his initial post, under Important things to know :lol:
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Oops I skipped right to the pictures.
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i had to do this on my 20b as they dont have a port at all for brake booster.
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hahah glad people are using this!
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Pink???????????????
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There was a recall on this hose, I had it done on my FD.
Originally Posted by ZE Power MX6
(Post 11087205)
Never knew that, that's good info :icon_tup:
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