Im looking at using a fuse tap to get constant 12V for my gauges. Is there any fuses that has constant 12V by driver foot? Also the fuse tap only taps one leg of the fuse, which leg would be after the fuse to ensure I get fused power.

My car came with the fuses box cover missing. I also have a issue with my dome light not working, and ignition key light not working, which fuse would be the blown one?

Thanks.

 

Not sure I follow all of your post. Typically you want SWITCHED 12v for a guage....which powers the guage when you turn the ignition on. With an in-line fuse you can find it here:

 

yeah after you turn the switch on you knwo hwo the switch has 2 phases one click for the radio , then a second for starting the car the ignition switch has a line that each of those clicks feeds the fuse box ,

now if you want constant 12v even with the car turned off

I think the tail lamps with with the car off just like the lights do . so check tail me personally i like as little possible having access to the battery when the car is not on . so I havent looked into it tomuch .

Now the question is when do you need constant 12v ?

and be weary that if you put something that requires higher amp on the same fuse line the fuse will start to blow , and if you replace the fuse with a higher amp one the wiring may overheat and melt and cause a short .

 

I do believe some of those fuses have constant 12v. Real easy to test with a multimeter, just find one that's constant with the car off.

I'm not a big fan of the fuse taps that wrap around one leg of the fuse, that spreads out the terminal in the fuse box. There are other ones that plug into the box, then have a second fuse and a small wire coming from it, those are way better.

Even better, for my gauges I just tapped into the stereo wiring. You've got constant, switched, and illumination all right there.

Dale

 

Hey jayscoobs. I was helping you in your last thread for a constant 12v source.

Blue wire with red stripe

 

Thanks guys. I needed constant 12V because my gauges require constant 12V and switched 12V to operate properly. Each gauge has 6 wires coming from it, even a wire for data link if I ever use that feature.

Bottom right corner. Yeah Matt thats the one I did touch in the last thread and probably blow a interior fuse because dome light isn't working and that ignition light. Also since it is that ignition light that got blown I don't think that wire can be used because it loses power when car is on. Can someone peak at their fuse diagram for me and tell me which one is interior fuse? Thanks.

 

This is a scan from the "1994 Body Electrical Troubleshooting Manual."

 

why not just tap into one of the ignition Powers?

 

Like in the key? I think I read a thread where that wasn't a good idea. I did find a in-line fuse holder so I can probably do that.