Thanks for starting this thread, valuable information :icon_tup:

I bought one of these engines but cost me close to $5k with no core exchange.

I will make sure I flush the engine properly.

Btw we had a little issue with UPS during shipping. They put the engine on its side and apparently decent amount of oil spilled out and UPS refused to carry it due to unclaimed flammable liquid. I spoke with Ray about this and he told me they test the engine and there must be some left in the engine. But the liquid may even be water, UPS guy wouldn't know......

+1 Arghx. There are stock port engines making 700hp right?

Port job is best done if one is rebuilding their engine already or have extra cash and time otherwise on a new engine a $400 port job will cost $1000 incl. shipping costs back and forth. Plus once you open the engine, even if it's brand new you'll need to replace some gaskets/seals. Not worth it imo.

Rich do these look familiar? :lol:

Just saw this now Matt, lmao :rlaugh:

Did Mazda recover that engine from one of their abandon warehouses in Chernobyl?

Based on Banzai's pictures, particularly the second one, my guess would be that flushing (engine assembled) would force most all of the water through the upper passages, and the lower ones would remain blocked, which is not good. IMHO disassembly is required to clear those lower passages, at least for any new engine I would buy.

so Mazda still makes 13B REWs and just to ship them on crates overseas for sale? what is the difference between these new engines and "re manufactured" engines. thanks

It's in the first post....:)

Yeah, I think I would at least have to crack the block open to make sure a flush would work at all.

I wonder what it would take for us to 'convince' Mazda to build more 20B crate engines ;)

Show them the money ;)

I'm sure they can do it but no sense in having these 20b's available on a shelf collecting dust when most consumers can't afford it.

Good info.

On a side note, I was a bit surprized to read this, as I thought new OEM motors were no longer available.

I was wondering about this too. From a business point of view, why would them make engines for a car that has not been produced for so many years. Are they making any profits?

Why does Mercedes still make parts for cars they produced in the 50's? You do realize they still made our cars in Japan until 2002 right? haha

Actually didn't know Mercedes still made engines for 50's car. I thought there was minor changes to the 95+ engines comparing to our cars. Maybe I remember wrong

Most likely these are overstock and have been sitting for years, which would explain all the rusted coolant...

Didn't Mazda export tons of parts for the FD and then leave the US market abruptly due to unexpected low sales and strength of the yen? That's why Ray has so many parts, I doubt Mazda was only planning to sell the FD 93-95

Wrong on both counts :lol:

The new engines are built in batches, and none of them have been sitting for very long.

Ray sells an absolute ton of parts, so many that Mazda frequently has to fire up another production run of R1 lips, pillow balls, undertrays etc etc.

For 4k or 5k in my humble opinion a prefer to buy a use 20b..!!!

You do realize a 20b is not a direct bolt in right?

^^^ ...considering that the e-shaft alone is that much.

Well damn I just got owned :lol:

So if I wanted a new, un-rusted engine, I just need to wait and pray for a new batch? Fire up the oven Mazda, pretty please!

^ That's why my post count is so low, thanks for going easy on me : )

Its not a big deal to drop a 20b in a fd, and for 4 grand for a stock "new" 13b it just too much :( and because im new to the forum its doesnt mean i dont know a thing about rotaries....

Banzai are you in charge of following up with Ray on this? I bet some people would love to wait for the next batch of engines that don't have rust in them after Mazda stopped using pure water when testing the engine.

Oh well if it's only 4k to install a 20b then hell everyone should have already done it by now. If you know that much about rotaries or custom work in general then you'd know there's a lot more to installing a 20b AND getting it running then $4,000 can buy, and that's assuming you do all the work and fabrication yourself. But that's not what this thread is about..There's tons of threads about the cost of 20b installs.

Also if you were to purchase all the various housings/rotors/parts/seals and pumps separately it would cost much more then $4000 for a stock new 13b. I'm not saying you don't know what you're talking about but; if you want to be realistic for a second you'd realize 4k for a complete brand new engine isn't a bad deal. Obviously people with different budgets will do things differently but this is probably the best option when it's time for a new engine, assuming the housings and other expensive components are out of spec.

no offence but 4k for everything to be in brand new maybe does indicate that you dont know as much as you think for the rotaries


Honestly, i dont see where the big deal is with this rust, Its minor surface rust