PM me with those threads and I'll consolidate. I was thinking of folding this thread into Ihor's original thread on the topic.

Here are some links to CrisyRX7's fuel pump wiring and upgrades with specific mention of posts and fuel safe wiring:
http://www.reganrotaryracing.com/fddualfuelpumps.htm
from this post:
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...5&postcount=13
on Ihor's original thread about wiring your fuel pumps:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/why-everyone-should-rewire-their-fuel-pump-847009/
which I just copied into the FAQ thread below Dale Clark's thread on fuel pump rewire :)

well that definitely answers my question.

looks like the same part is in this pic:
http://www.reganrotaryracing.com/dualpumpcover.jpg

This one is not sealed. I use specific bulkhead connectors designed for the application. PAVE Technologies is a great source; they will set up the connector with all of the correct softgoods. I have used this one in my projects; it has PTFE insulated 12 gauge wires and the wires are terminated (fuel will not leak up under the insulation:
http://www.pavetechnologyco.com/desi...ductindex.html
https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=28840

im sure the one from summit would work just fine with some fuel-safe gasket maker:
http://www.caswellplating.com/permat...ketmakers.html

also, gasoline-resistant primary wire by the foot:
http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Acce...gw-1_Wire.aspx
[quote=Standard Copper Primary Wire is widely used in the trailer and automotive industry for original equipment and replacement wiring. The General Purpose Thermo-Plastic (GPT) Insulation is highly resistant to acids, gasoline, oil, grease and most industrial solvents. Meets SAE J1128 Specifications. For use with 50 volts or less, 176 degrees Fahrenheit.[/quote]

or this:

http://www.supremehardware.com/servl...RY-WIRE/Detail

So is it possible to get the gasoline safe wire and bulkhead connectors online at the same place?

Not sure. I know someone's gonna hate on my shopping list, but here is what I'm going to use:

(x2) Summit Racing® Bulkhead Cable Connector SUM-G1431 = $24.95 shipped
(x1) Permatex® Super High Tack™ Gasket Sealant = $3.99 (Purchased Local)
(x2) GB Xtreme Primary Wire 10-Gauge, 8-foot (Black & Red) = $22.93 shipped
(x1) Non-Insulated Ring Terminal 10-Gauge (Pack of 20) = $4.99 (Purchased Local)

So my total is a little over $60. Keep in mind I already have the wiring done from the battery to the top of the bulkhead with 10-Gauge wire and a Bosch relay.

I'll share pics when I get the parts...

worked on the fuel pump wiring at SuckieBomb Garage today

new sock
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1284953342

holes cut for bulkhead connectors
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1284953342

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1284953342

new wires with ring terminals. bulkhead connectors sealed with gasoline-safe gasket maker:
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1284953342

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1284953342

putting it back in:
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1284953512

all hooked up:
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1284953512

then rich and his IRP thugs showed up and ruined the party.
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1284953512

:lol::lol::lol::lol:

How much does that thing cost? I cannot figure out for the life of me how to purchase one.

It's been a few years but I think the wall connector was about $40 and the cable end was less with hermetic seals... Call them 937.890.1100 x6

Also try Newark Electronics they carry a wide line of connectors.

Lastly, Alvatek specalizes in aircraft connectors 1-888-965-7278

just wanted to update about my fix.

so i had a small problem, fortunately it happened within 24 hours. the electrical bulkhead pass-thru connectors weren't sealed properly. apparently i let the gasket maker set-up for too long and then didn't tighten the locking nut enough so i had fuel seeping out (very little but enough to get the top of the bulkhead 'wet' with fuel). i noticed it right away because of the smell coming from my trunk area. haha

i pulled the assembly again, removed the new connectors, cleaned them, and then re-installed them with new gasket maker and got the locking nuts proper tight. no more leaking! it's been about a month now and still no problem.

cheers.

on a side note, the second bulkhead isn't necessary for a ground, the pump can be grounded through the pump housing. only one bulkhead per pump as the ground doesn't need to be isolated and is necessary for the fuel level sender and low fuel level lights(if you're omitting the stock ground wire, i would at least upgrade the wiring diameter and run a gold plated terminal).

what kind of drill bit did you use to cut the holes out? size?

any further issues? i am looking to do this soon and was going to purchase those same connectors

1 1/4"

so if i keep the stock sending unit connector in place (using only 2 wires), and run separate power and ground wires, the fuel level gauge and low fuel light wont work?

Haven't had any further issues since I re-sealed the fittings (whatever the last post is dated...)

nevermind, dumb question

theorie - did you remove your fuel level float? do you just now go with mileage for fuel level?

.

I Didn't see it on the pics, maybe hes got it hooked up differently?

no it's still in there. still using the float level for the gauge

Tom, do you think one of these connectors will be sufficient to get enough voltage for two pumps?

Note the barb fittings where changed to 3/8 instead of the big 1/2 ones
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...7/IMAG0191.jpg