A word about re-wiring your fuel pump. [pics]
 

So last night I park my car on the street and today I try to start it and it won't turn over. I check the fuel pressure gauge, and it's sitting at zero. Great.

After checking the wiring between the battery & the fuel tank bulkhead in the trunk, I couldn't find a problem. So I decide to pull the bulkhead/assembly from the tank.

Well, awhile back I rewired my fuel pump with 10gauge wire and a new relay...however I did not re-wire the part inside the fuel tank - bad idea.

Check out the sweet 16 gauge wire connecting the fuel pump to the top of the bulkhead. Oh yeah, and check out the sweet melted connector.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1284326491

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1284326491

Well I just walked to Lowes in the rain and got some rubber grommet pass-thru, a drill, a drill bit, wires, connectors, and crimps. Oh yes, working on the side of the street, in the rain is SOOOOO fun.

Let this be a lesson to everyone who has, or is considering, rewiring the fuel pump. :blush:

Your sock filter looks dirty and it may ruin your pump if it's clogged up.

yeah good call. The factory wire can overheat. Here's my rewire--8 gauge (yeah that's overkill) right into the tank for a Supra pump.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1203786449

the bulkhead connector is the main failure point. redo the bulkhead on top of the tank with pass through wires, just be sure they are sealed up well, you don't want fuel leaking out near your exhaust...

"....overkill" is an understatement. #12 (or even #14) is all that's required (for a single supra pump). #10 would be overkill. Anyone replacing in tank wires should be sure the insulation is compatible with fuel; e.g., gasoline and/or alcohols, to avoid potential and future safety issues.

yes I used some rubber grommet pass-thrus to run 10gauge through the top of the bulkhead. sealed up nice and tight!

back in business.

yes i noticed that also but i need to order one.

anyone know the best place to order one?

true that too, i was cringing when i saw the speaker wire just thinking what would happen if the insulation swells up and the wires rub together..

Be cautious.... A friend of mine did this, and the gromet was sealed up nicely.... after nearly causing a fire in his car, owing to gas near a relay, it turns out that fuel can actually travel up the *inside*of the cable (it leaches up the copper strands..... think of a kind of syphon effect) just keep an eye out is all I'm saying.

the proper way to do a bulkhead connector is to use a stud/insulator method.

the stock S4 FCs use a passthrough bulkhead style connector and have none of these issues, i just have never tried to see if the dimensions are all the same to work in a FD fuel tank.

Thanks for posting. This reinforces my position to leave this un-modded. :)

That is correct. I was thinking the same when I rewired my pump.

Yea, that makes sense...

it's been in there for years now with zero problems. That's actually relatively expensive amp wire. It's hardly a pretty install, but the concern about fires and fuel eating up insulation is completely overblown. I don't even have a grommet (yeah I said it, NO GROMMET FOR YEARS), just a bit of RTV where the wire goes through the hole. I've also had zero fuel pressure problems or electrical problems with it and have run up to 21 pounds of boost.

Well if you stop posting suddenly we'll know why! Just kiddin :lol:

apparently this stuff is "gasoline safe"
http://www.neverseezproducts.com/gasketseal.htm

SOOOOOO....

Any idea where to get a new filter sock?!

So is there some special designation of wire people should be looking for to ensure that the wire is safe to use around fuel?

I believe tjhat advanced or auto zone sell replacement socks for the supra pump. You will have to look under the supra of course;)

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...51_10051_-1___

The Denso part is at the bottom of the list.

Denso Fuel Pump Filter/Strainer
Part No. 952-0029
$21.99

Came to about $30 shipped from Advanced. I saw they have them on eBay for $5 less (shipped) but I wasn't sure if it was authentic Denso or not.

Thanks!

there's still few places where i would try testing to see what works and what doesn't. speaker wire is for speakers and wasn't designed to be mixed with petrol fuels, perhaps it does work but if it ever fails then you will have as close to an explosion of fuel as fuel can possibly make in the semi pressurized/enclosed fuel tank.

From what I've researched, most high-quality "automotive primary wire" is gasoline-safe. I ordered some 10-gauge to replace the temporary wiring I used to get my car home the other day - obviously it works for now, but I would rather have it done right vs. driving around with a ticking time bomb in my trunk.

Not a place to mess around unless the proper materials and closures are used. Make sure wire is rated:

http://database.ul.com/cgi-bin/XYV/t...388&sequence=1

http://www.panduit.com/groups/MPM-GA...ONT_034680.pdf

TEF and PTFE are also acceptable insulation for immersion in gasoline:
http://www.thermalwire.com/temp_appliance.htm

Grommets are not acceptable closures for a fuel tank; they would never pass tech at the track to say the least. There are quite a few bulkhead electrical connectors that are suitable. At the bare minimum use insulated post and stud with nylon, teflon, or polyethylene insulator / seals.

The addition of ethanol and octane boosters further complicates resistance to breakdown.

good thing I'm not using speaker wire

http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CC0Q8wIwAg#

"Phoenix Gold PF2W8R100 100' Spool 8-Gauge Power Wire - Ruby
Oxygen-free high conductivity copper - chemical and temperature resistant jacket"

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1284422817
another site listed it as 735 strands of 40 gauge wire. It's flexible and easy to route. I use the same style of wiring for my battery relocation. It's expensive wire, I just got a good deal on it because my friend had access to huge discounts at the time.

What about this:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1431/

https://static.summitracing.com/glob.../sum-g1431.jpg

I think a thread consolidation is needed, there is too much good information directly related, but in different threads.

PM me with those threads and I'll consolidate. I was thinking of folding this thread into Ihor's original thread on the topic.

Here are some links to CrisyRX7's fuel pump wiring and upgrades with specific mention of posts and fuel safe wiring:
http://www.reganrotaryracing.com/fddualfuelpumps.htm
from this post:
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...5&postcount=13
on Ihor's original thread about wiring your fuel pumps:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/why-everyone-should-rewire-their-fuel-pump-847009/
which I just copied into the FAQ thread below Dale Clark's thread on fuel pump rewire :)

well that definitely answers my question.

looks like the same part is in this pic:
http://www.reganrotaryracing.com/dualpumpcover.jpg

This one is not sealed. I use specific bulkhead connectors designed for the application. PAVE Technologies is a great source; they will set up the connector with all of the correct softgoods. I have used this one in my projects; it has PTFE insulated 12 gauge wires and the wires are terminated (fuel will not leak up under the insulation:
http://www.pavetechnologyco.com/desi...ductindex.html
https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=28840

im sure the one from summit would work just fine with some fuel-safe gasket maker:
http://www.caswellplating.com/permat...ketmakers.html

also, gasoline-resistant primary wire by the foot:
http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Acce...gw-1_Wire.aspx
[quote=Standard Copper Primary Wire is widely used in the trailer and automotive industry for original equipment and replacement wiring. The General Purpose Thermo-Plastic (GPT) Insulation is highly resistant to acids, gasoline, oil, grease and most industrial solvents. Meets SAE J1128 Specifications. For use with 50 volts or less, 176 degrees Fahrenheit.[/quote]

or this:

http://www.supremehardware.com/servl...RY-WIRE/Detail

So is it possible to get the gasoline safe wire and bulkhead connectors online at the same place?

Not sure. I know someone's gonna hate on my shopping list, but here is what I'm going to use:

(x2) Summit Racing® Bulkhead Cable Connector SUM-G1431 = $24.95 shipped
(x1) Permatex® Super High Tack™ Gasket Sealant = $3.99 (Purchased Local)
(x2) GB Xtreme Primary Wire 10-Gauge, 8-foot (Black & Red) = $22.93 shipped
(x1) Non-Insulated Ring Terminal 10-Gauge (Pack of 20) = $4.99 (Purchased Local)

So my total is a little over $60. Keep in mind I already have the wiring done from the battery to the top of the bulkhead with 10-Gauge wire and a Bosch relay.

I'll share pics when I get the parts...

worked on the fuel pump wiring at SuckieBomb Garage today

new sock
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1284953342

holes cut for bulkhead connectors
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1284953342

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1284953342

new wires with ring terminals. bulkhead connectors sealed with gasoline-safe gasket maker:
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1284953342

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1284953342

putting it back in:
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1284953512

all hooked up:
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1284953512

then rich and his IRP thugs showed up and ruined the party.
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1284953512

:lol::lol::lol::lol:

How much does that thing cost? I cannot figure out for the life of me how to purchase one.

It's been a few years but I think the wall connector was about $40 and the cable end was less with hermetic seals... Call them 937.890.1100 x6

Also try Newark Electronics they carry a wide line of connectors.

Lastly, Alvatek specalizes in aircraft connectors 1-888-965-7278

just wanted to update about my fix.

so i had a small problem, fortunately it happened within 24 hours. the electrical bulkhead pass-thru connectors weren't sealed properly. apparently i let the gasket maker set-up for too long and then didn't tighten the locking nut enough so i had fuel seeping out (very little but enough to get the top of the bulkhead 'wet' with fuel). i noticed it right away because of the smell coming from my trunk area. haha

i pulled the assembly again, removed the new connectors, cleaned them, and then re-installed them with new gasket maker and got the locking nuts proper tight. no more leaking! it's been about a month now and still no problem.

cheers.

on a side note, the second bulkhead isn't necessary for a ground, the pump can be grounded through the pump housing. only one bulkhead per pump as the ground doesn't need to be isolated and is necessary for the fuel level sender and low fuel level lights(if you're omitting the stock ground wire, i would at least upgrade the wiring diameter and run a gold plated terminal).

what kind of drill bit did you use to cut the holes out? size?

any further issues? i am looking to do this soon and was going to purchase those same connectors

1 1/4"

so if i keep the stock sending unit connector in place (using only 2 wires), and run separate power and ground wires, the fuel level gauge and low fuel light wont work?

Haven't had any further issues since I re-sealed the fittings (whatever the last post is dated...)

nevermind, dumb question

theorie - did you remove your fuel level float? do you just now go with mileage for fuel level?

.

I Didn't see it on the pics, maybe hes got it hooked up differently?

no it's still in there. still using the float level for the gauge

Tom, do you think one of these connectors will be sufficient to get enough voltage for two pumps?

Note the barb fittings where changed to 3/8 instead of the big 1/2 ones
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...7/IMAG0191.jpg